Wednesday 8th April - crossing the random border into Vietnam
Was feeling just a tad panicky earlier - I had gone through the entire day - a 2 hour motorbike trip to the border (with my big backpack) which hadn't yet made it into my lonely planet guide! - into the unfamiliar and from stories slightly scary territory of Vietnam, and 2 local buses plus all the places inbetween and walking around a busy town in the evening - without A SINGLE other westener. I managed to get all the way to Ton Cum in the same day as leaving Rathinikiri, which is in the central highlands of Vietnam and had been recomended to me by a couple I briefly met at the tree top guest house in Rathanakiri. I waved goodbye to Don not really knowing what to expect, bravely setting off into virgin territoy...I had no dong (Vietnam currency), and little way of knowing how I was going to continue my journey upon arriving at the border. Reckless some might say, but at least I had the good old US dollars, which came in handy on one bus ride as a waved a dollar at the lady who proceeded to laugh in my face. But the driver was happy to pocket it as an extra bit of cash and I breathed a sigh of relief; my smiles and helpless facial expressions had worked..!
Before the bus, I had journeyed with some excitable male youths who picked me up at the border and who wanted 5 usd for the short journey, I got em down to 3 which I had learned from one of the security men was the norm for locals if it was indeed a proper bus which was debatabl. We seemed to stop all over town before actually heading off, they were delivering lumbur - or something, anyhow, it brought a lot of insects with it which coupled with the lady sitting behind me transporting birds, was an alternative experience if nothing else. ..
Wow I've just found wireless. In my bed of all places. This is getting better and better. Helps cushion the blow of spending 6 dollar on a room all to myself. I've spent the last 2 1/2 hours uploading photos to facebook while I have a good connection. People better bloomin view them! But also its a practicality. If my laptop was stolen, the thought of losing all my photos would make me want to cry for the rest of my life!! And I think I felt a bit fearful of entering Vietnam because I have heard so many stories of thefts ie a whole gang of motorbikes surrounding you and making off with your stuff. The people riding them that is ;)
Have to say as good as it is sharing the cost of rooms with others, I may look forward to more nights of my own company. Being under my cover with my laptop has a familiar feeling of home about it and a nice way alternative way to chill out or spend an evening in front of the TV. People tell me Im brave doing this on my own. My friend Christina even said I would make a good missionary because I dont mind taking risks. I dont know though. I am a controlled risk taker. Some might think Im a bit reckless but truthfully ive never got in trouble for it yet. But maybe thats the big guy upstairs protecting me. It has occured to me Ive been in vulnerable situations since Ive been alone. Bit nothing yet where I've felt genuinely afraid. Think you have to keep your wits about you and trust your instinct.
I really like this place, probably because it is not at all touristy. There are loads of street stalls and markets and everything is cheap ha ha.
By the way, today broke the record - there were no less than 7 people on one moped!!! A guy was driving, with what I presume to be 5 kids sitting behind him and one facing him straddling the front wheel. If I hadnt been balancing so precariously myself, I'd have taken a photo...
Money spent: Breakfast and drinks 5 dollars, moto to border 15 dollar, buses 3 and 1 dollar, accomodation 6 dollar TOTAL: 31 dollars
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
Monday, 4 May 2009
Rathanikiri, Cambodia's 'wild east'
Sunday 5th April - Rathinakiri volcano crater
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
The day I shoulda gone home!
OK so another hot and humid day abounds and I am sitting on a very dirty and rickety local bus to Rathanikii - the wild east of Cambodia. I have backtracked somewhat and in hindsight it woluld have been much better for me to do this part of Cambodia on the way from Laos, but it was a last minute thought and now I'm actually glad I didnt because I would have had the worst of my food poisoning here which would be even worse than the musty Phnom Phen room without a window and Nate's insensative comments. And that's saying something!
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
Phnom Phen (the 2nd time round!)
Sometime in April....
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Siem Reap to Phnom Phen Thurs 2nd April
Thurs 2nd April from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
Thursday, 2 April 2009
Siem Reap and Ankor Wat (6 nights)
Siem Reap and Ankor Wat (6 nights)
Ok so here's the main thing that Cambodia is on the travelling circuit for: Angkhor Wat, the 6th wonder of the world.
We arrived after a very long and uncomfortable journey, but still managed to get up at 4.30am to go see the temples. In body if not in spirit. Even though the actual Angkor Wat was the largest religious monument in the world, (and pretty impressive it has to be said), there were other temples I preferred due to them having more character such as the Lara Croft tomb raider temple where crumbling stones and awesome trees grown on and in and within and between the slabs. The next day we did it the other way round, getting up later and trying to do the sunset thing but unfortunately it was clouded over and so we didn't get the benefit.
Siem Reap itself is a really nice place. Nate and I ate at a lovely resteraunt which served as part of a bbq (one you make yourself on the table) what Nate declared as one of the best Ostrich he has eaten which is something as his father used to farm them on a rather large scale. Another night we went for a meal at Temple which featured Askora dancing. I enjoy meals with entertainment! Reminded me a bit of when me and my sister bells spent the summer in Spain. We later met up with Don, and then saw the guys and girls from Sihoukeville which doubled with the lethal cocktail buckets, contributed to an extremely drunk evening which basically wrecked me for the next two solid days and nights. I think the unsettled and homesick feeling caught up with me too and I had a good and long (and embarrassing but these things happen) purge of tears, I think a build up of confusing emotions. Perhaps because had I not been intending to change my flight, it was nearly time to go home.
.
Our room had a TV in which was a godsend to watch some movies esp when feeling rough!
After Nate had left for Vietnam to sort his visa extention and pick up his new credit card, I visited the National Museum (12 dollars ouch!) and National Handicapped charity which doubled up as a rehabilitation centre and fitter of prosthetic limbs and physiotherapy, and tried to volunteer at the local childrens hospital, but had the impression they wanted blood or money. Blood I can't do due to having had malaria and money I intended to do anyway online. The children and their mothers had come from 4 provinces and snaked in their colourful clothing around the block - it was quite a humbling sight. Nate and I had gone to a 'free'Bach concert by Dr Beat Richner, the founder of this hospital, called Kantha Bopha. He was also (the amazing people are always multi-talented) a Celloist, and in the past had been a professional musician / singer / actor in Switzerland. This man I just have so much respect and admiration for I could almost cry. Talk about making your life count for something. Indirectly or directly he is responsible for saving the lives of literally millions of Cambodian children. Without Kantha Bopha, 3'200 additional children would die in Cambodia every month. I cannot explain how this makes me feel. To have that passion, that dedication, and to realise one person can make such a difference. The hospitals (there are now 5) are funded only 5 % by Cambodian and 10 % by Swiss governments, the rest in its entirety comes from (tourist) donations. The annual budget of the running costs is now 24 Million USD! Tourism is down in Cambodia due to the global recession, and normally in high season he gives 2 concerts a week which brings in the bulk of the money. It must be a constant source of anxiety. I pray the government starts taking on more responsibility for the welfare of it's future generations. He also has visions for the same hospitals to be available in Africa. That would be something. Free healthcare to all. And without the corruption. Again, something we take for granted in England. Check out beatocello.com for more info or to make a donation (can do online with credit card.)
I have tried to contact a few orphanages on skype with a view to helping out for a few days but esentially its not that easy. Is frustrating. Same with another hospital I looked into you had to send it app letter, CRB, CV, be tested for MRSA etc etc and be there for like a month. Was a shame but I suppose they have to have some structure esp as some volunteers may be more hassle than they're worth.
I spent the evening in my new guest house 'Garden Village' which is a popular backpacker hang-out with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where my dutch friends David Bas and Irish Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Couldn't rouse Don earlier in the day who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door! What an idiot!
I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling rather sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice - and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations (yeah I know big generalisation but from my experience, true). She and Paul (they're just friends) are also going to Vietnam so really hope will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realised there's always other people to enjoy spending time with. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable and meaningful. Otherwise whats the point? I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on! Off to Ratanakiri, the wild wild east....
Ok so here's the main thing that Cambodia is on the travelling circuit for: Angkhor Wat, the 6th wonder of the world.
We arrived after a very long and uncomfortable journey, but still managed to get up at 4.30am to go see the temples. In body if not in spirit. Even though the actual Angkor Wat was the largest religious monument in the world, (and pretty impressive it has to be said), there were other temples I preferred due to them having more character such as the Lara Croft tomb raider temple where crumbling stones and awesome trees grown on and in and within and between the slabs. The next day we did it the other way round, getting up later and trying to do the sunset thing but unfortunately it was clouded over and so we didn't get the benefit.
Siem Reap itself is a really nice place. Nate and I ate at a lovely resteraunt which served as part of a bbq (one you make yourself on the table) what Nate declared as one of the best Ostrich he has eaten which is something as his father used to farm them on a rather large scale. Another night we went for a meal at Temple which featured Askora dancing. I enjoy meals with entertainment! Reminded me a bit of when me and my sister bells spent the summer in Spain. We later met up with Don, and then saw the guys and girls from Sihoukeville which doubled with the lethal cocktail buckets, contributed to an extremely drunk evening which basically wrecked me for the next two solid days and nights. I think the unsettled and homesick feeling caught up with me too and I had a good and long (and embarrassing but these things happen) purge of tears, I think a build up of confusing emotions. Perhaps because had I not been intending to change my flight, it was nearly time to go home.
.
Our room had a TV in which was a godsend to watch some movies esp when feeling rough!
After Nate had left for Vietnam to sort his visa extention and pick up his new credit card, I visited the National Museum (12 dollars ouch!) and National Handicapped charity which doubled up as a rehabilitation centre and fitter of prosthetic limbs and physiotherapy, and tried to volunteer at the local childrens hospital, but had the impression they wanted blood or money. Blood I can't do due to having had malaria and money I intended to do anyway online. The children and their mothers had come from 4 provinces and snaked in their colourful clothing around the block - it was quite a humbling sight. Nate and I had gone to a 'free'Bach concert by Dr Beat Richner, the founder of this hospital, called Kantha Bopha. He was also (the amazing people are always multi-talented) a Celloist, and in the past had been a professional musician / singer / actor in Switzerland. This man I just have so much respect and admiration for I could almost cry. Talk about making your life count for something. Indirectly or directly he is responsible for saving the lives of literally millions of Cambodian children. Without Kantha Bopha, 3'200 additional children would die in Cambodia every month. I cannot explain how this makes me feel. To have that passion, that dedication, and to realise one person can make such a difference. The hospitals (there are now 5) are funded only 5 % by Cambodian and 10 % by Swiss governments, the rest in its entirety comes from (tourist) donations. The annual budget of the running costs is now 24 Million USD! Tourism is down in Cambodia due to the global recession, and normally in high season he gives 2 concerts a week which brings in the bulk of the money. It must be a constant source of anxiety. I pray the government starts taking on more responsibility for the welfare of it's future generations. He also has visions for the same hospitals to be available in Africa. That would be something. Free healthcare to all. And without the corruption. Again, something we take for granted in England. Check out beatocello.com for more info or to make a donation (can do online with credit card.)
I have tried to contact a few orphanages on skype with a view to helping out for a few days but esentially its not that easy. Is frustrating. Same with another hospital I looked into you had to send it app letter, CRB, CV, be tested for MRSA etc etc and be there for like a month. Was a shame but I suppose they have to have some structure esp as some volunteers may be more hassle than they're worth.
I spent the evening in my new guest house 'Garden Village' which is a popular backpacker hang-out with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where my dutch friends David Bas and Irish Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Couldn't rouse Don earlier in the day who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door! What an idiot!
I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling rather sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice - and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations (yeah I know big generalisation but from my experience, true). She and Paul (they're just friends) are also going to Vietnam so really hope will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realised there's always other people to enjoy spending time with. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable and meaningful. Otherwise whats the point? I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on! Off to Ratanakiri, the wild wild east....
Sihanoukville (8 nights)
We arrived in the dark after another bus journey from Phnom Phen, but this time we did good - Nath managed to find a gorgeous sea fronted room for 15 dollars. It has a very large balcony at the far end of the beach so a bit quieter and with cozy sofas. This place is amazing it doesn't fit my preconceptions of Cambodia which I suppose were a bit ignorant but for a developing nation Soukeville doesn't fit the image. For me it reminiscent of Ko Pang Yang, an island off the east coast of Thailand, a chilled stretch of beach featuring bar after bar of fairy lights flickering in the dark. This beach may be not quite so full on as Thailand, but you still see the odd firework or firedancer.
I have had constant tummy pains which I can't wait to see the back of (get it?) but ultimately, I have a beautiful view, the sun in shining and I have a book. I'm a simple girl at heart!
Most mornings I woke up really early for some reason, and went downstairs by myself to sit in the quiet of the morning reading or writing my personal thoughts about things - the ones that dont make it as far as this blog!
There are lots of things to do here and they even have liverboard dives which could be cool especially if im not gonna make it to the Similians after all.
I actually went to the doctors to be tested for malaria and denge fever but I don't have it. Hurray. OK sounds a bit dramatic but when you've had malaria before and you read scary things like left untreated it can cause fatal damage to your internal organs, and your internal organs are actually causing you a great deal of pain, and your in a place like Cambodia, you dont really want to take your chances!! I met a really nice local girl just a bit younger than me who was divorced with a kid who worked at a bar I had gone to for the wireless. She basically said she would take me to the medical centre after her shift on her moto. She is one of those people I dont think I willl ever forget because she was so sweet and smiled and giggles so much, and when she smiled it lit up her whole face and it made you feel privaledged she would be so generous with it. What a different it makes being around joyful people, it youre in a bad mood you certainly couldnt stay in it for long! I wish I was more like her.
My absolute hightlight of this place was undoubtedly an accidental run in with a large family of Cambodians on holiday from Phnom Phen. I hesitantly approached, as initially their hand flapping was anbigious - were they shooeing me away or excitedly beckoning me closer?! They invited me to shaire their snacks, generously plying me with local whiskey n ice which, how could I refuse?! In did vagually cross my mind I had to drive a moto in unfamiliar territory along notorious dirt tracks but at first one didn't seem to be a problem...
I seemed to be the grand object of their interest and even admiration, one lovely man who I think I could marry he was just so lovely, even went so far as to earnestly say they were all honoured to spend time with me, a foreigner. We spoke in broken english but for the most part laughed and joked together it was good for the soul. The girls were quite shy, and I kept catching them look at me upon which they would smile and look away. There was also a very cute baby. The aforementioned man although he looked young, was married with children and he very seriously asked me if I knew of any men who would be interested in marrying his daughter. I explained it wasn't like that in England, people married for love, and it wasn't arranged by their parents. He seemed very anxious for his daughter to make a good marriage.
The setting was beautiful, in a more desolute area of the Otres beach where Nate and I had come the day before, when I had gone windsurfing which was good fun but absolutely exhausting because of the amount of time you initially spend hauling the wet sail out of the water! Anyway, basically I only went there this day to look for a credit card Nate had lost the day before, and was planning on doing various errands like sorting my visa before checking out another couple of beaches. But then they invited me for lunch, which is like a shared meal encompassing 3 small fish, a bag (literally like a sandwich bag) of chicken and ginger, a plate of melon (very popular and cheap here) and rice. All these bags or dishes were spread on a bamboo mat, which doubled as their bed for the night, and it struck me if at a restaraunt, the amount would probably be ample for 2 people. Yet here there were 4 or 5 men, a couple of women (they tended to stay more in the background, possibly because they did not speak such english as the men), and 4 teenagers or children and this seemed normal. It is common to eat with your fingers here. in little tit bits and yet even I was satisfied. It was the most authentic meal I have had on my travels so far. It reminded me of the feeding of the five thousand or something!
As the afternoon wore on I became less aware of much else apart from this cool and random situation I had found myself in, and after a few whiskeys drank out of the end of cut-off plastic bottles, they blared some tunes out of their buses and attempted to teach me how to dance Cambodian style. Men and women alike moved at a slow and steady in a circular fashion, very fluid and graceful, with the emphasis being on free flowing arm and hand movement. As I have witnessed in Laos, the fingers are very articulate and take on a life of their own. Seemingly femanine, it did not negate the mens masculinity in any way, in fact from a Westeners perception I respected them the more for it, but then I do just love men that can dance ;) It turned more fun when we switched and did it western style. More giggles abounded especially by this point one single man had taken a special liking to me and was quite obviously showing off which eveyone thought was hilarious. 'Monkey man' they called him and he was a bit craxy but fun. I just had to keep moving away from him as he got a little close for comfort!
I was then invited to take a swim.Again only one women joined us, the mother who spoke ok english. I think she played quite a prominent role in the group, she may actually have been the grandma - but here its sometimes hard to tell! Very beautiful, with serene eyes and she often touched or stroked me in a motherly way, gave me a shoulder massage and put her arm around me as we walked back from the beach. She was very sweet and I somehow missed these people already, people I would love to have spent more time with and almost felt like extended family. In the water, even though I didn't even understand it! - we played possibly the best game ever, just because of the randomness and the amount of laughter we all had. I think this originated from the childlike behaviour of the whole group, and a sense of innocence and playfulness. I couldn't hep noticing that none of them actually knew how to swim properly, it was actually painful watching one of the men attempting to do front crawl over to a boat I had suggested swimming to. We take knowing how to swim for granted, but probably because we were taught at school.
A good day trip was a 'snorkelling day' which involved boating to three different islands and a kiddies cheap plastic snorkelling pack! Was not impressed and the visability was poor and not great corals but none the less it was a really nice day trip even though it became a bit cloudy later. We stopped for lunch at 'bamboo island' which was absolutely stunning and had a bbq baracuda and potatoe and rice and salad. Got chatting to an English brother and sister Mark and Lisa who were travelling together, who we also hung out with a bit later in the week. One day I scrambed over the rocks with Mark to a gorgeous beach called Sokha which is namely private. This is the sort of thing I love doing, just exploring and not knowing what you'll find when you get there. After a while, I decided I wanted to swim back and Mark bless him insisted on scrambling back rather than take the tuk tuk he originally intended. To be fair, and I'm a strong swimmer, it was quite a way in the sea conditions but a good challenge and I have recently been missing my regular work outs at the gym. Gonna try and do a bit more exercise here on in.
Otherwise, it was just a nice place to do nothing. We went out one night with the guys we had met on the bus and their two girl friends they had met in Vietnam. The club had ridiculously cheap beers - like 25 c I think. I had a really good night but that's because I was in the mood and dancing was involved and I was with a group of people that were a laugh, all very important factors!
I managed to sort my visa we eventually booked an onward coach to Siem Reap. I probably would have got bored being here this long if it wasnt for the fact that I was ill for the first part of it. Had my lazy beach time. Now for the temples.
I have had constant tummy pains which I can't wait to see the back of (get it?) but ultimately, I have a beautiful view, the sun in shining and I have a book. I'm a simple girl at heart!
Most mornings I woke up really early for some reason, and went downstairs by myself to sit in the quiet of the morning reading or writing my personal thoughts about things - the ones that dont make it as far as this blog!
There are lots of things to do here and they even have liverboard dives which could be cool especially if im not gonna make it to the Similians after all.
I actually went to the doctors to be tested for malaria and denge fever but I don't have it. Hurray. OK sounds a bit dramatic but when you've had malaria before and you read scary things like left untreated it can cause fatal damage to your internal organs, and your internal organs are actually causing you a great deal of pain, and your in a place like Cambodia, you dont really want to take your chances!! I met a really nice local girl just a bit younger than me who was divorced with a kid who worked at a bar I had gone to for the wireless. She basically said she would take me to the medical centre after her shift on her moto. She is one of those people I dont think I willl ever forget because she was so sweet and smiled and giggles so much, and when she smiled it lit up her whole face and it made you feel privaledged she would be so generous with it. What a different it makes being around joyful people, it youre in a bad mood you certainly couldnt stay in it for long! I wish I was more like her.
My absolute hightlight of this place was undoubtedly an accidental run in with a large family of Cambodians on holiday from Phnom Phen. I hesitantly approached, as initially their hand flapping was anbigious - were they shooeing me away or excitedly beckoning me closer?! They invited me to shaire their snacks, generously plying me with local whiskey n ice which, how could I refuse?! In did vagually cross my mind I had to drive a moto in unfamiliar territory along notorious dirt tracks but at first one didn't seem to be a problem...
I seemed to be the grand object of their interest and even admiration, one lovely man who I think I could marry he was just so lovely, even went so far as to earnestly say they were all honoured to spend time with me, a foreigner. We spoke in broken english but for the most part laughed and joked together it was good for the soul. The girls were quite shy, and I kept catching them look at me upon which they would smile and look away. There was also a very cute baby. The aforementioned man although he looked young, was married with children and he very seriously asked me if I knew of any men who would be interested in marrying his daughter. I explained it wasn't like that in England, people married for love, and it wasn't arranged by their parents. He seemed very anxious for his daughter to make a good marriage.
The setting was beautiful, in a more desolute area of the Otres beach where Nate and I had come the day before, when I had gone windsurfing which was good fun but absolutely exhausting because of the amount of time you initially spend hauling the wet sail out of the water! Anyway, basically I only went there this day to look for a credit card Nate had lost the day before, and was planning on doing various errands like sorting my visa before checking out another couple of beaches. But then they invited me for lunch, which is like a shared meal encompassing 3 small fish, a bag (literally like a sandwich bag) of chicken and ginger, a plate of melon (very popular and cheap here) and rice. All these bags or dishes were spread on a bamboo mat, which doubled as their bed for the night, and it struck me if at a restaraunt, the amount would probably be ample for 2 people. Yet here there were 4 or 5 men, a couple of women (they tended to stay more in the background, possibly because they did not speak such english as the men), and 4 teenagers or children and this seemed normal. It is common to eat with your fingers here. in little tit bits and yet even I was satisfied. It was the most authentic meal I have had on my travels so far. It reminded me of the feeding of the five thousand or something!
As the afternoon wore on I became less aware of much else apart from this cool and random situation I had found myself in, and after a few whiskeys drank out of the end of cut-off plastic bottles, they blared some tunes out of their buses and attempted to teach me how to dance Cambodian style. Men and women alike moved at a slow and steady in a circular fashion, very fluid and graceful, with the emphasis being on free flowing arm and hand movement. As I have witnessed in Laos, the fingers are very articulate and take on a life of their own. Seemingly femanine, it did not negate the mens masculinity in any way, in fact from a Westeners perception I respected them the more for it, but then I do just love men that can dance ;) It turned more fun when we switched and did it western style. More giggles abounded especially by this point one single man had taken a special liking to me and was quite obviously showing off which eveyone thought was hilarious. 'Monkey man' they called him and he was a bit craxy but fun. I just had to keep moving away from him as he got a little close for comfort!
I was then invited to take a swim.Again only one women joined us, the mother who spoke ok english. I think she played quite a prominent role in the group, she may actually have been the grandma - but here its sometimes hard to tell! Very beautiful, with serene eyes and she often touched or stroked me in a motherly way, gave me a shoulder massage and put her arm around me as we walked back from the beach. She was very sweet and I somehow missed these people already, people I would love to have spent more time with and almost felt like extended family. In the water, even though I didn't even understand it! - we played possibly the best game ever, just because of the randomness and the amount of laughter we all had. I think this originated from the childlike behaviour of the whole group, and a sense of innocence and playfulness. I couldn't hep noticing that none of them actually knew how to swim properly, it was actually painful watching one of the men attempting to do front crawl over to a boat I had suggested swimming to. We take knowing how to swim for granted, but probably because we were taught at school.
A good day trip was a 'snorkelling day' which involved boating to three different islands and a kiddies cheap plastic snorkelling pack! Was not impressed and the visability was poor and not great corals but none the less it was a really nice day trip even though it became a bit cloudy later. We stopped for lunch at 'bamboo island' which was absolutely stunning and had a bbq baracuda and potatoe and rice and salad. Got chatting to an English brother and sister Mark and Lisa who were travelling together, who we also hung out with a bit later in the week. One day I scrambed over the rocks with Mark to a gorgeous beach called Sokha which is namely private. This is the sort of thing I love doing, just exploring and not knowing what you'll find when you get there. After a while, I decided I wanted to swim back and Mark bless him insisted on scrambling back rather than take the tuk tuk he originally intended. To be fair, and I'm a strong swimmer, it was quite a way in the sea conditions but a good challenge and I have recently been missing my regular work outs at the gym. Gonna try and do a bit more exercise here on in.
Otherwise, it was just a nice place to do nothing. We went out one night with the guys we had met on the bus and their two girl friends they had met in Vietnam. The club had ridiculously cheap beers - like 25 c I think. I had a really good night but that's because I was in the mood and dancing was involved and I was with a group of people that were a laugh, all very important factors!
I managed to sort my visa we eventually booked an onward coach to Siem Reap. I probably would have got bored being here this long if it wasnt for the fact that I was ill for the first part of it. Had my lazy beach time. Now for the temples.
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