Cu Chi Tunnels, Mekong Delta, Reunification Museum, Notre Dame Catherdral, War Remnant museum (3 days)
Fri 11th April - Cu Chi Tunnels
Ho Chi Minh City - HCMC or formally Saigon, is a large city of 5.8 million in the south of Vietnam. Today I visted the Cu Chi Tunnels, 15 K out of town and costing 5 USD. Include info I put on facebook.
OK so I arrived very early in the morning, after a terrible nights (not) sleep on the bus from Ton Cum in the central highlands. I got dumped at a bus stop and didnt have a clue where I was, again only westener, completely unprepared because the light was broken on my seat on the bus so couldn't do the reading and planning I had intended the evening before. Other information I had researched was in my netbook which is not really a good idea to flash to the many people bustling around that may contribute to Ho Chi Minh being a capital of petty theft! I plonked briefly in a street cafe to get my bearings with my trusty lonely planet, and the impatient guy dumped some cold coffee in front of me and then charged me double for it! But still being new to Vietnam and being half asleep I didnt argue as its only pennies at the end of the day.
I did finally find a local bus that an hour later got me to near the backpacker district (Ho Chi Minh is very big and very bad traffic!) and after only asking in maybe 3 places I secured a room in district 1 'mini hotel alley' with tv bathroom and wireless for 6 USD. The staff also seemed quite honest and I guy that stayed there tesitified to this fact. I knew this place was more expensive so I wasnt gonna waste more time getting it cheaper. I did in fact ask in 'Yellow House' which do dorm rooms but it was 7 USD so realised I did get a very good deal considering I'm currently solo.
I literally didnt even shower, as my room wasnt even ready to check into (it was 7.30 am!) and many tour operators were full for the Hu Chi Min tunnels so by the time I found one, I had about 0 minutes to grab a baguette for lunch before getting on a bus to the Hu Chi Minh Tunnels. I felt so tired sometimes the only way is to keep going and it was a way I knew I would be productive in my first day and make the most of my time here.
We stopped on the way at a place where handicapped people make beautiful, well anything and everything really. Pictures, chopsticks, furniture, but it was all very expensive so I just treated it like a gallery!
The Hi Chi Minh tunnels were really interesting. What gets me is the sheer resilience that led to a solid 15 years of digging underground by the Vietmanese. Some people found them quite claustraphobic but I managed the full 90 metres, which even though I dont like enclosed spaces, I found quite fun and was with an outgoing canadian girl who also found it a laugh which always helps.
After a hasty shower, I met Elli, a german girl I had hung out with throughout the day, after a hasty shower, to be told 350 euros had been stolen from her bag in her dorm room. She was obviously upset and so we went out for some food and a bottle of wine in a mexican restaurant near her hostel Yellow House. Since I have arrived here I keep hearing stories of people that have either been held up or been stolen from. I have to be more careful. Like clutch you bag for dear life so nobody can motorbike by and grab it off you. I was scared of Vietnam for this reason but in reality as long as your aware it should be fine. I may start using my pacsafe though.
MOney spent: 6 USD accomodation, breakfast 1 dollar, waters 50 cents, ice cream 60 cents, lunch (noodle soup and 2 beers) with Gene ? dinner (street) 1 dollar. Wine 70,000.
Sat 12th April - Mekong Delta
Another really good day. For 8 USD I have visited the Mekong Delta, (2 1/2 hours each way with the obligatory toilet stop just 15 mins from our destination!) gone on a boat, had a nice lunch, visited the honey bees and sampled honey tea (very nice) tried some coconut candy (slightly sickly), handled a python (I really dont like snakes so that was my mental challenge of the day!) had a 'jungle fruit' afternoon meal accompanied by green tea and live music (I can't really tell if the females have nice voices as its kind of a nasal sound they make!) and my favourite part, gone on a 'rowing' boat (although it was more like Oxford punting only they are squatting not standing) along a narrow distributary with large jungle trees either side, wearing the famous pointy Vietmanese hat. We noticed (Elli, Tom and I) that all the Vietmanese dressed very smartly considering they were performing fairly active tasks in the sun. But perhaps they know best, it must be cooler.
I hung out with Elli from yesterday and a guy called Tom from Liverpool who regaled us with a tragic tale of how his girlfriend dumped him ON THE PLANE they were both on to travel to South East Asia together! He got so upset he was put off the plane and never made it that time round. Another traumatic event led him to book a last minute flight this time. Elli on the otherhand has been travelling for 1 1/2 years. She is intending to return to Gernany in July or possibly earlier.
My impressions of Elli and Tom are both of genuine people. I initially noticed Elli because she had a lovely smile, and someone who smiled like that has got to be nice hey! Tom was quieter, but very open about things in his own life, and good to chat to. Later in the day we started making plans to continue travelling together at least till Mui Ne which I have decided I am going to briefly to try out kite surfing and sand surfing ;) You have to grab these opportunities while you can!
What is interesting here also is that there are many asias on holiday from elsewhere and amongst backpackers too I am appreciating meeting people and hearing other peoples stories. Each one is unique. Being a ridiculous romantic it also warms the heart to meet people who have met while travelling. It didn't quite work out for me that way, but maybe one day...
We got back 6.30 ish and I downloaded some photos before meeting Tom in the evening. Went for some cheapo beers (10,000 each!) and ate at Stella after seeing my dutch friends Bas and David. Davids been ill and the Irish girl Karin also who I met in Don Det, Laos. So they didn't come out but it was still good to see them.
Also hung out with a larger crowd we met at the cheapest drinking place in town, which is basically on the street sitting on kiddie sized plastic chairs! - but the club we were going to was shut (on a Saturday?) so we dispersed and I went to bed about 2am. The lads were really sweet they wouldnt let me walk to and from my guest house by myself (I dumped my laptop back before going out to club) and Im glad Tom walked me back later because actually the alley that I thought would be constantly busy was actually completely empty. Think Tom is a really decent guy. He's like a typical scous in one way and is into his martial arts but is really soft underneath. Gonna do the city tomorrow and then leave early the next day. I do like Ho Chi Minh but I have to get a move on!
One thing: I rang up an english speaking church and the connection wasnt great but it was very clear they were not meeting because of the government. I know Vietnam was / is a commiunist country but forbidding christian public meetings is not what I would have expected at all. Quite full on.
Money spent: 8 dollar day trip, 6 dollar accomodation, 1 dollar breakfast and drink (cheese baguette and lipton ice tea), 1.50 ice cream, dinner 59,000, beers 30,000.
Sunday 12th April - Ho Chi Minh
Happy Easter! So today even though I woke up at 7am (ouch!) I laid in bed and did chilled stuff and went for breakfast at Stella's which was an easter treat as more expensive. I had very nice poached egg baguette, meat and cappucino which was gorgeous. Nate said he had eaten breakfast here 5 days in a row and walking past each time I could just imagine him here on his laptop! It was not very typical Vietnam though - it was modern and westernised. I got chatting to a lady and a man who had been to India so gave me some tips. We ended up going to viist the cathedral together but it was shut (lonely planet let me down!) so we went to the Reunification Palace, built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnams presidential palace, and the site of famous images of the communist tank crashing the gate on 30th May 1970, the day Saigon surrendered. We only paid 15,000 to get in (just over a dollar) and had an enlish speaking guide for an hour or so. It was very grand, and designed by some famous architect...er must find out who..! From here I went straight to the War Remants museum which had come highly recommended and which left a lump in your throat. I think the worst was seeing the tanks and bombs designed and made specifically to destroy and kill, the depictions of mutilated soldiers, innocent victims of Agent Orange, a toxic spray used by the Americas to clear vast areas and which still affects people now with cancer and deformation. It spolied all the water resources in the area and was an evil tool. The photos of those deformed were very sad, little children born as victims of a war they didnt even live through. Other heart rendering images were those painted by the children and their perceptions of war - bloodshed, dead bodies, tears, mass graves, and peace - soliders returned, families reuintied, unity joy and friendship. I arrived there abolutely exhausted and so chatted for about half an hour to an american guy called Dave who we later arranged to meet to do to a service at the cathedral. He also came out for a drink that night and changed his ticket from Nha Trang to Mui Ne to move on with our wee crowd.
The service, although all in Vietmanese, was just what I needed to focus on it being Easter. During all the talkie bits I read my little bible and applied some of the versus from the psalms to the songs the choir were singing. My church at home has a band for worship and is contemporary in its approach although Church of England, so am not used to 'traditional' services, but there is something very uplifting and majestic and somehow on a higher plane to hear voices in unison filling a vast space. It reminded me of Italy 2000 where I went to mass in the Vatican wih Pope John Paul II, an experience I shal never forget. There is definately a holy atmosphere in such places.
In the evening I met Elli and Tom as planned, and also Dave who I met today, and a few of Toms friends from his travels also joined us. I got on really well with Gemma, a girl from Birmingham who is just on her way out of Vietnam, who recently was living and working in Australia with her boyfriend and travelling for a year and a half already. She'll also be in India about the same time is me. We had a drink at Go 2 bar, (2 for one beers) had some cheap noodles at one of the many street cafes where everyone sits (almost toilet style!) on low plastic tables and chairs and then ended up at our cheapie hang out where you can get a Saigon bottle beer for under a dollar. There towards the end of the evening we met the strangest lady who was apparantly deaf and mute due to the effect of bombs. She was quite a character, drinking her beer and miming out her story in a way any professional artist would be proud of. Had another late night and no sleep before getting a bus to....
Money spent: Breakfast 94,000 dong, moto 12,000 dong, entrance 15,000 dong, water 4,000 dong, cigarettes 4,000 dong, War remnant museum 15,000 dong, moto 15,000 dong, dinner 10,000 dong, beers 25,000 dong.
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
Ton Cum, Central highlands, Vietnam (9th April)
Thursday 9th April - Ton Cum, Central Highlands Vietnam
I am sitting on another bus, a 12 hour overnighter - from the central highlands to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) only this time a bit plush which as yet I am unsure whether this is typical or atyical of Vietnam. Ton Cum is not the sort of place where there is a lot of toursit info and I had little choice but to rely on my guest house owner aka unoffical motorbike guide for the day whether this was a budget or upper class option. As always, I am forced to listen to the annoyingly loud and repetative strains of asian music (although thank goodness I can turn the speaker OFF above my head!!!), and there are absolutely no other westeners on here which suprises me in one way and yet not in another given my eperience of this region thus far. I have noticed in asia they are really anal about seat numbers. Half this bus is empty, including the back seat which I like to lie out on properly - I cant for the life of me sleep face up, even in a normal bed I sleep on my side or on my front. But no I had to sit in number 11! The guy practically dragged me there.
Today has been a good day. I was able to wake up to the internet, a novelty. Then I went out for the day with my guest house owner, a lovely 26 yr old Vietmanese man. We first went to the 'wooden church' which I had already heard about although I have little knowledge as to of its significance beyond its asthetic beauty. It was good for the soul to be inside a church which I am increasingly missing and I spent some time praying about stuff. Then we went around and about, just enjoying the scenery and a communcal meeting house which was a big thatched building on stilts where I reaslise there is actually a king called Ho Chi Minh! No he doenst live there, but a picture of him does!
Given last night was only the 2nd in about 7 weeks I had slept in a room by myself, I still didnt get a very good nights sleep! But at least I managed to catch up with uploading a whole bunch of photos on facebook and skpying my great uncle jack, granma, and mum. The signal was really good and goodness knows where it came from!
THe afternoon was geat because we drove right into the mountains, which are beauiful by the way, a cross between the french alps and the welsh brecon beacons - and scrambed up a waterfall. It is more pleasant trekking in milder climates than the jungle especially with the interesting addition of the bloomin leeches!
Itt has been an interrsting 2 days travelling as solo as you can get, with little or no interaction with any other westeners. Good preperstion for India I suppose. So I am now ready for the bustle that is Ho Chi Minh although I am not looking forward to arriving to the the notorious tuk tuk drivers at 5am! Gonna watch a movie now. Have to drown out the music somehow...
OK so now its 11pm we stopped for food just as I may possibly have started nodding off, and its just getting weirder. Nobody speaks english, the way they communicate to me is by necessity ie being shoved out of the way! This sounds crazy but I went to the loo, and there was none. Not even a hole in the ground. But there was a sink! - and the big bowl with water and a scoop in which one usually uses as a flush. So I could only assume you were meant to squat and pee on the floor. Sorry to be graphic, but really this is true travelling! I put two and two together, checked the other cublicle which only contained a blokes one, did the buisness and legged it.
I am not sure how I feel about the whole travelling solo thing. I mean this is a different level. This isnt coming abroad without knowing anyone and staying on the backpacker circuit where you really have no escuse to not spend every day and night with others if one so wishes. This is like, no choice, no option! I like it in one way, but occassionally I think yikes whos there to care if the bus goes without me and Im stuck in this god forsaken place without my rucksack?! But I think it'll just make me stronger and at the end of the day I stick out like a sore thumb (Mums point to me for the kids to look at like Im some circus attraction) how couldnt they miss me!
I am going to make more effort in this country to lean some of the language. I started earlier with my non offical guide. I was also helping him with his english. It reminded me a bit of Italy. But this is 3 weeks not 3 months. I'll be content with the absolute basics ie 'no thankyou, I'll walk!'
Oh, did I mention a kid has been sick in the seat in front and to the left of me. Nice. Lonely planet did warn me...
Money spent: 9 dollars bus, 9 dollars motorbike and guide, 1 dollar food, 1 dollar drinks.
I am sitting on another bus, a 12 hour overnighter - from the central highlands to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) only this time a bit plush which as yet I am unsure whether this is typical or atyical of Vietnam. Ton Cum is not the sort of place where there is a lot of toursit info and I had little choice but to rely on my guest house owner aka unoffical motorbike guide for the day whether this was a budget or upper class option. As always, I am forced to listen to the annoyingly loud and repetative strains of asian music (although thank goodness I can turn the speaker OFF above my head!!!), and there are absolutely no other westeners on here which suprises me in one way and yet not in another given my eperience of this region thus far. I have noticed in asia they are really anal about seat numbers. Half this bus is empty, including the back seat which I like to lie out on properly - I cant for the life of me sleep face up, even in a normal bed I sleep on my side or on my front. But no I had to sit in number 11! The guy practically dragged me there.
Today has been a good day. I was able to wake up to the internet, a novelty. Then I went out for the day with my guest house owner, a lovely 26 yr old Vietmanese man. We first went to the 'wooden church' which I had already heard about although I have little knowledge as to of its significance beyond its asthetic beauty. It was good for the soul to be inside a church which I am increasingly missing and I spent some time praying about stuff. Then we went around and about, just enjoying the scenery and a communcal meeting house which was a big thatched building on stilts where I reaslise there is actually a king called Ho Chi Minh! No he doenst live there, but a picture of him does!
Given last night was only the 2nd in about 7 weeks I had slept in a room by myself, I still didnt get a very good nights sleep! But at least I managed to catch up with uploading a whole bunch of photos on facebook and skpying my great uncle jack, granma, and mum. The signal was really good and goodness knows where it came from!
THe afternoon was geat because we drove right into the mountains, which are beauiful by the way, a cross between the french alps and the welsh brecon beacons - and scrambed up a waterfall. It is more pleasant trekking in milder climates than the jungle especially with the interesting addition of the bloomin leeches!
Itt has been an interrsting 2 days travelling as solo as you can get, with little or no interaction with any other westeners. Good preperstion for India I suppose. So I am now ready for the bustle that is Ho Chi Minh although I am not looking forward to arriving to the the notorious tuk tuk drivers at 5am! Gonna watch a movie now. Have to drown out the music somehow...
OK so now its 11pm we stopped for food just as I may possibly have started nodding off, and its just getting weirder. Nobody speaks english, the way they communicate to me is by necessity ie being shoved out of the way! This sounds crazy but I went to the loo, and there was none. Not even a hole in the ground. But there was a sink! - and the big bowl with water and a scoop in which one usually uses as a flush. So I could only assume you were meant to squat and pee on the floor. Sorry to be graphic, but really this is true travelling! I put two and two together, checked the other cublicle which only contained a blokes one, did the buisness and legged it.
I am not sure how I feel about the whole travelling solo thing. I mean this is a different level. This isnt coming abroad without knowing anyone and staying on the backpacker circuit where you really have no escuse to not spend every day and night with others if one so wishes. This is like, no choice, no option! I like it in one way, but occassionally I think yikes whos there to care if the bus goes without me and Im stuck in this god forsaken place without my rucksack?! But I think it'll just make me stronger and at the end of the day I stick out like a sore thumb (Mums point to me for the kids to look at like Im some circus attraction) how couldnt they miss me!
I am going to make more effort in this country to lean some of the language. I started earlier with my non offical guide. I was also helping him with his english. It reminded me a bit of Italy. But this is 3 weeks not 3 months. I'll be content with the absolute basics ie 'no thankyou, I'll walk!'
Oh, did I mention a kid has been sick in the seat in front and to the left of me. Nice. Lonely planet did warn me...
Money spent: 9 dollars bus, 9 dollars motorbike and guide, 1 dollar food, 1 dollar drinks.
Crossing the random border into Vietnam..
Wednesday 8th April - crossing the random border into Vietnam
Was feeling just a tad panicky earlier - I had gone through the entire day - a 2 hour motorbike trip to the border (with my big backpack) which hadn't yet made it into my lonely planet guide! - into the unfamiliar and from stories slightly scary territory of Vietnam, and 2 local buses plus all the places inbetween and walking around a busy town in the evening - without A SINGLE other westener. I managed to get all the way to Ton Cum in the same day as leaving Rathinikiri, which is in the central highlands of Vietnam and had been recomended to me by a couple I briefly met at the tree top guest house in Rathanakiri. I waved goodbye to Don not really knowing what to expect, bravely setting off into virgin territoy...I had no dong (Vietnam currency), and little way of knowing how I was going to continue my journey upon arriving at the border. Reckless some might say, but at least I had the good old US dollars, which came in handy on one bus ride as a waved a dollar at the lady who proceeded to laugh in my face. But the driver was happy to pocket it as an extra bit of cash and I breathed a sigh of relief; my smiles and helpless facial expressions had worked..!
Before the bus, I had journeyed with some excitable male youths who picked me up at the border and who wanted 5 usd for the short journey, I got em down to 3 which I had learned from one of the security men was the norm for locals if it was indeed a proper bus which was debatabl. We seemed to stop all over town before actually heading off, they were delivering lumbur - or something, anyhow, it brought a lot of insects with it which coupled with the lady sitting behind me transporting birds, was an alternative experience if nothing else. ..
Wow I've just found wireless. In my bed of all places. This is getting better and better. Helps cushion the blow of spending 6 dollar on a room all to myself. I've spent the last 2 1/2 hours uploading photos to facebook while I have a good connection. People better bloomin view them! But also its a practicality. If my laptop was stolen, the thought of losing all my photos would make me want to cry for the rest of my life!! And I think I felt a bit fearful of entering Vietnam because I have heard so many stories of thefts ie a whole gang of motorbikes surrounding you and making off with your stuff. The people riding them that is ;)
Have to say as good as it is sharing the cost of rooms with others, I may look forward to more nights of my own company. Being under my cover with my laptop has a familiar feeling of home about it and a nice way alternative way to chill out or spend an evening in front of the TV. People tell me Im brave doing this on my own. My friend Christina even said I would make a good missionary because I dont mind taking risks. I dont know though. I am a controlled risk taker. Some might think Im a bit reckless but truthfully ive never got in trouble for it yet. But maybe thats the big guy upstairs protecting me. It has occured to me Ive been in vulnerable situations since Ive been alone. Bit nothing yet where I've felt genuinely afraid. Think you have to keep your wits about you and trust your instinct.
I really like this place, probably because it is not at all touristy. There are loads of street stalls and markets and everything is cheap ha ha.
By the way, today broke the record - there were no less than 7 people on one moped!!! A guy was driving, with what I presume to be 5 kids sitting behind him and one facing him straddling the front wheel. If I hadnt been balancing so precariously myself, I'd have taken a photo...
Money spent: Breakfast and drinks 5 dollars, moto to border 15 dollar, buses 3 and 1 dollar, accomodation 6 dollar TOTAL: 31 dollars
Was feeling just a tad panicky earlier - I had gone through the entire day - a 2 hour motorbike trip to the border (with my big backpack) which hadn't yet made it into my lonely planet guide! - into the unfamiliar and from stories slightly scary territory of Vietnam, and 2 local buses plus all the places inbetween and walking around a busy town in the evening - without A SINGLE other westener. I managed to get all the way to Ton Cum in the same day as leaving Rathinikiri, which is in the central highlands of Vietnam and had been recomended to me by a couple I briefly met at the tree top guest house in Rathanakiri. I waved goodbye to Don not really knowing what to expect, bravely setting off into virgin territoy...I had no dong (Vietnam currency), and little way of knowing how I was going to continue my journey upon arriving at the border. Reckless some might say, but at least I had the good old US dollars, which came in handy on one bus ride as a waved a dollar at the lady who proceeded to laugh in my face. But the driver was happy to pocket it as an extra bit of cash and I breathed a sigh of relief; my smiles and helpless facial expressions had worked..!
Before the bus, I had journeyed with some excitable male youths who picked me up at the border and who wanted 5 usd for the short journey, I got em down to 3 which I had learned from one of the security men was the norm for locals if it was indeed a proper bus which was debatabl. We seemed to stop all over town before actually heading off, they were delivering lumbur - or something, anyhow, it brought a lot of insects with it which coupled with the lady sitting behind me transporting birds, was an alternative experience if nothing else. ..
Wow I've just found wireless. In my bed of all places. This is getting better and better. Helps cushion the blow of spending 6 dollar on a room all to myself. I've spent the last 2 1/2 hours uploading photos to facebook while I have a good connection. People better bloomin view them! But also its a practicality. If my laptop was stolen, the thought of losing all my photos would make me want to cry for the rest of my life!! And I think I felt a bit fearful of entering Vietnam because I have heard so many stories of thefts ie a whole gang of motorbikes surrounding you and making off with your stuff. The people riding them that is ;)
Have to say as good as it is sharing the cost of rooms with others, I may look forward to more nights of my own company. Being under my cover with my laptop has a familiar feeling of home about it and a nice way alternative way to chill out or spend an evening in front of the TV. People tell me Im brave doing this on my own. My friend Christina even said I would make a good missionary because I dont mind taking risks. I dont know though. I am a controlled risk taker. Some might think Im a bit reckless but truthfully ive never got in trouble for it yet. But maybe thats the big guy upstairs protecting me. It has occured to me Ive been in vulnerable situations since Ive been alone. Bit nothing yet where I've felt genuinely afraid. Think you have to keep your wits about you and trust your instinct.
I really like this place, probably because it is not at all touristy. There are loads of street stalls and markets and everything is cheap ha ha.
By the way, today broke the record - there were no less than 7 people on one moped!!! A guy was driving, with what I presume to be 5 kids sitting behind him and one facing him straddling the front wheel. If I hadnt been balancing so precariously myself, I'd have taken a photo...
Money spent: Breakfast and drinks 5 dollars, moto to border 15 dollar, buses 3 and 1 dollar, accomodation 6 dollar TOTAL: 31 dollars
Monday, 4 May 2009
Rathanikiri, Cambodia's 'wild east'
Sunday 5th April - Rathinakiri volcano crater
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
The day I shoulda gone home!
OK so another hot and humid day abounds and I am sitting on a very dirty and rickety local bus to Rathanikii - the wild east of Cambodia. I have backtracked somewhat and in hindsight it woluld have been much better for me to do this part of Cambodia on the way from Laos, but it was a last minute thought and now I'm actually glad I didnt because I would have had the worst of my food poisoning here which would be even worse than the musty Phnom Phen room without a window and Nate's insensative comments. And that's saying something!
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
Phnom Phen (the 2nd time round!)
Sometime in April....
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Siem Reap to Phnom Phen Thurs 2nd April
Thurs 2nd April from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
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