Thursday 26th - Chang Rai and crossing into Laos.
Woke up in Chang Rai (north Thailand towards Laos border) at 8.50am and was up, showered and out by 9.15. It was the lumpiest bed I had stayed on in Thailand so far but still slept well! The shower room was huge and hot water which was nice. Went to the bus station to find out times for my onward travel was a bit dissapointed the last bus was at 4.30 but as the day progressed I saw this as a good rather than bad thing.
I went to the hill tribe exhibition (costing 50 baht including free cuppa coffee - nice!) which had a 20 minute video in English on the various hill tribes, aparantly the Paduang long necked village 'Karen' which me and Max went to on our motorbikes was set up by a buisnessman soley for tourism purposes. Its a contraversial thing - the women say they are better off than in Burma, all they have to do is sit around an pose for photographs and have a better quality of life, but according to the hill tribe museum it is still not ethical because they are not being paid a fair rate for what they do. You cant really win either way.
I am now in a big supercentre where I am looking for a dry bag. To no avail. Had kentucky fried chicken - sometimes you just get a craving for the greasy western food rather than the fried Thai food?! Am planning to leave on the 3.30 bus in case I get through the border today. I have no books on Laos or Vietnam so gonna be depending on meeting others who know what they are doing!
Well its 6.30 and I am finally in my guest house in Laos! Got the 2.30 bus in the end (took 2 1/2 hours) and am glad as crossed the border today. It was a bit precarious on the narrow boat over the river from Thailand to laos. Have realised recently I'm not exactly the most steady on my feet so basically add that to a big backpack and side bag with flip flops and a narrow boat and yep it was nearly man (or women) overboard! It's not cheap here but I think thats because its a port and people are basically stuck here and cant do much about it. Also food and such like is supposedly imported from Thailand. I am paying either 35,000 kip or 140 baht for my room (very basic just a double bed, shared shower supposedly warm but not really!) I havn't done my homework which is very unlike me but Ive been so basically have no idea what's cheaper or exchange rates or anything. Wish Id bought a book on this part of Asia. I'd imagine its 2.80 if baht or less if kip? its 1.15 dollar to the kip so thats I dont bloody know. Auuughhh!
Ok so the ATM was gonna charge me 20,000 kip for the privaledge of drawing out money (thats nearly 2 quid!!!!) so sod that I'll use my Thai baht and US dollars for now. They seem to accept all three here.
I found a place to eat paying with baht and had another western dish - spag bolognese for like 120 baht. Kept a belgiun guy company who had to hang out in this dead end place for 3 days while his friends did the gibbon experience (living and journeying in treetops for 2 days) because he's got a broken foot poor thing. As with my seemingly hopeless situation in Sukkothia where I had to wait for ages in a bus station, I have miraculously got wireless here. Dont ask me how its not the sort of place its available youd understand if you were here. No supermarket, just load of shanty shops and budget accomodation. But hey Im not complaining. Its not as cold as Pai here but still a chill in the air at night.
Still feeling a bit low. Also got message from Lauren they are already in Vang Vienne and staying there another 2 nights as she messaged me yesterday. So basically they are way ahead then going right down south so not sure whats gonna happen about seeing them in Laos. I'll just have to try to make the decision to enjoy whatever comes along and make the effort to hook up with people. Hadnt planned on going south but is supposed to be beautiful. May look into flight back from Vietnam and do my trip the other way round. If you know what I mean ie down laos up through Vietnam. At the moment I just want beaches so may cut short cambodia to enjoy more of the beach life. Decisions decisions!
Money spent: Strawberries 20 baht, hill tribe museum 50 baht, dress 160 baht, food (KFC) 105 baht, bus to Chang Kong 65 baht, shared taxi 15 baht, boat to Laos 40 baht, visa 36 USD accomodation 140 baht. Total: help, er... 1895 baht (37.90) But that included an expensive visa which I wasnt gonna include in everday budget so more like 595 / 12 quid
Best thing: Hill tribe museum in Chang Rai, and finding wireless in this dead end place in Laos!
Worst thing: Not having met anyone exciting on bus or crossing as hoped. Oh well tomorrows another day...
Thursday, 26 February 2009
Wednesday 25th - travelling to Chang Rai
Wednesday 25th - travelling to Chang Rai
I woke up early this morning to Max's alarm (damn it!) - don't think it was intentional though! I ended up staying in his hut as my bag was there already and it worked out cheaper for us and less hassle after a long and tiring day. It did occur to me to get up and try to get the 8 o clock bus to the border but I had no idea where it was going from or whether there were seats and also had to return the motorbike. I couldn't get back to sleep but just lay in to try and get some energy back. Ended up hanging out in Pai until 2pm when we got on the ordinary bus to Chang Mai. It was quite squashed and Max in his blunt way said couldn't I sit somewhere else?! Did eventually move as it seemed he was chatting up a Brazilian girl in front of us and I felt I was an unwelcome intruder! Very tired and for a while was feeling quite low wondering if I had done the right thing coming to Chang Mai as if I had been more organised I could have been in Laos sooner and I dont know where my friends are. I wondered if I had altered my plans because of Max or whether I would have gone anyway. The truth is, I have places I like to go but do genuinely like company too so it does have a bearing on the choices I make but there is a fine line between that and let it affect your own plans too much when you have other things on the radar like time! So yes maybe I was feeling a little homesick or friendsick shall I say.
I decided I was going to pull myself together so upon arriving in Chang Rai me and Max split as we had different ideas about where we wanted to stay and I thought it was about time I went off by myself again, I get a bit crotchety if I don't get my own space I love company but I also love being by myself. After all I wanted to check out the night bazaar which is never easy with a guy and also look into things for tomorrow as I am planning on only having one day so will be up early making the most of it.
I knew I would like Chang Rai when I got here. I eventually found a place for 170 baht for the room (Easy Room)- more than I had hoped but I didn't want to waste too much time looking when I could be window or stall shopping! The stalls are amazing and I think there must be some women from the hill tribes that come to sell their wares - eiither that or some locals playing dressing up! If I was here for longer would go on a proper treck but dont think thats gonna be feasible.
I forgot to put my memory card back in my camera after downloading to my netbook on the bus, but basically I'll always remember it here its nicer than Chang Mai - more character but I like smaller cozier places anyway thats just me. There were a couple of stages dotted around near food halls (loads of little stands of different very cheap Thai food) with shows or music and lots and lots of Thais - again didnt see many westerners. And hurray! - the temperature is really nice - not sticky like Bankok but not cold like Pae. At last I won't be cold again! Good job too as Lai lai gave my coat away thinking I had left - which I had, but only temporarily on my motorbike road trip.
I chatted to a couple of londoners in one of the bars down one of the main streets, other than that I just wandered around taking it in. I found a lovely food market where I bought Thai noodles with cashew nuts for 35 baht, I was surrounded by Thais. There was live music on a couple of stages (one really badly lip synching!) and such like but generally the night market has a lovely vibe about it. If I was here for more than 1 night I would go out but I'm so tired and want to have a good full day tomorrow so gonna get my head down. Finally bought a watch with alarm which should help matters. And a little ring. I can't help myself! Sod the budget! Glad I came to Chang Rai. Hope tomorrow works out OK and crossing the border.
Money spent: Accomodation 75 baht, Breakfast 80 baht, coke 15 baht, bus to Chang Mai 70 baht, sandwich train station 15 baht, air con bus to Chang Rai 130 baht. Accomodation (easy house) 170 baht, watch 150 baht, food 35 baht, strawberries 30 baht, drink 15 baht, water 13 baht, body wash and shampoo 89 baht, ring 40 baht. TOTAL: 827 / 18.54 pounds.
Best thing: Night market
Worst thing: Not getting my butt in order. Should have been more organised.
I woke up early this morning to Max's alarm (damn it!) - don't think it was intentional though! I ended up staying in his hut as my bag was there already and it worked out cheaper for us and less hassle after a long and tiring day. It did occur to me to get up and try to get the 8 o clock bus to the border but I had no idea where it was going from or whether there were seats and also had to return the motorbike. I couldn't get back to sleep but just lay in to try and get some energy back. Ended up hanging out in Pai until 2pm when we got on the ordinary bus to Chang Mai. It was quite squashed and Max in his blunt way said couldn't I sit somewhere else?! Did eventually move as it seemed he was chatting up a Brazilian girl in front of us and I felt I was an unwelcome intruder! Very tired and for a while was feeling quite low wondering if I had done the right thing coming to Chang Mai as if I had been more organised I could have been in Laos sooner and I dont know where my friends are. I wondered if I had altered my plans because of Max or whether I would have gone anyway. The truth is, I have places I like to go but do genuinely like company too so it does have a bearing on the choices I make but there is a fine line between that and let it affect your own plans too much when you have other things on the radar like time! So yes maybe I was feeling a little homesick or friendsick shall I say.
I decided I was going to pull myself together so upon arriving in Chang Rai me and Max split as we had different ideas about where we wanted to stay and I thought it was about time I went off by myself again, I get a bit crotchety if I don't get my own space I love company but I also love being by myself. After all I wanted to check out the night bazaar which is never easy with a guy and also look into things for tomorrow as I am planning on only having one day so will be up early making the most of it.
I knew I would like Chang Rai when I got here. I eventually found a place for 170 baht for the room (Easy Room)- more than I had hoped but I didn't want to waste too much time looking when I could be window or stall shopping! The stalls are amazing and I think there must be some women from the hill tribes that come to sell their wares - eiither that or some locals playing dressing up! If I was here for longer would go on a proper treck but dont think thats gonna be feasible.
I forgot to put my memory card back in my camera after downloading to my netbook on the bus, but basically I'll always remember it here its nicer than Chang Mai - more character but I like smaller cozier places anyway thats just me. There were a couple of stages dotted around near food halls (loads of little stands of different very cheap Thai food) with shows or music and lots and lots of Thais - again didnt see many westerners. And hurray! - the temperature is really nice - not sticky like Bankok but not cold like Pae. At last I won't be cold again! Good job too as Lai lai gave my coat away thinking I had left - which I had, but only temporarily on my motorbike road trip.
I chatted to a couple of londoners in one of the bars down one of the main streets, other than that I just wandered around taking it in. I found a lovely food market where I bought Thai noodles with cashew nuts for 35 baht, I was surrounded by Thais. There was live music on a couple of stages (one really badly lip synching!) and such like but generally the night market has a lovely vibe about it. If I was here for more than 1 night I would go out but I'm so tired and want to have a good full day tomorrow so gonna get my head down. Finally bought a watch with alarm which should help matters. And a little ring. I can't help myself! Sod the budget! Glad I came to Chang Rai. Hope tomorrow works out OK and crossing the border.
Money spent: Accomodation 75 baht, Breakfast 80 baht, coke 15 baht, bus to Chang Mai 70 baht, sandwich train station 15 baht, air con bus to Chang Rai 130 baht. Accomodation (easy house) 170 baht, watch 150 baht, food 35 baht, strawberries 30 baht, drink 15 baht, water 13 baht, body wash and shampoo 89 baht, ring 40 baht. TOTAL: 827 / 18.54 pounds.
Best thing: Night market
Worst thing: Not getting my butt in order. Should have been more organised.
Tuesday 24th Feb - Pai road trip day 2 (Long neck hill tribe)
Tuesday 24th Feb - Road trip day 2 (Long neck hill tribe)
Today we woke up to the sound of the annoying announcements (what is it with Thai people dont they ever want a lie in?!). I slept really well until I got cold then was tossing and turning. The bed was huge though (one of the great things about Thailand huge beds come as standard) and also firm mattress which I like. It was a fair drive to the hill tribe village - Karen, long necks near Mae Hong Song west of Pia towards the Burmese border) and we didnt set off until after breakfast at 10.30. Couldnt really be bothered to get up and neither of us had a clock or alarm which didnt make life easy! It's weird here with food - basically if you order together, the food never arrives at the same time and they may even make another meal inbetween! I had pancakes with syrup which were delicious! Max is ovbiouslt bad influence on me I think I am now hooked on pancakes. The little town had a thriving market and I briefly took the opportunity to walk around while we fuelled up, once again the only westerner. I read in teh bar menu that only about 2 tourists come through every month which I find hard to believe in one way but I suppose most tourists would fly to Mae Hong Song or get the bus over the mountains or even bike it in one day so that's maybe why.
Once we had set off, (Max driving to begin with) after a while we passed a sign saying 'mud springs' so we took a 5 k detour so I could check out what I hoped to be a mud bath! Unfortunately it wasn't - so I had a mud face mask instead which was absolutely gorgeous and cost 60 baht. My skin feels so smoooooth!
Driving onto the village, despite a few guessed turns - road signs in Thailand are rather sparce or non-existent! - we arrived about 2pm later than planned. It was well worth the visit though - one lady truly had a very long giraffe like (although I think she would prefer the word swan-like) neck. We first saw only her face and elongated neck gentyl rocking and visible over the top of a wash screen - upon later inspection (slightly cautiously as one couldn't really tell if she was dressed or not) she was scrubbing her brass coils around her neck and calf muscles (which were very tight and looked very painful) - and I noticed with all the women they sort of had dry skin or scabs around this part of their legs. They were so tight I can't imagine any air getting to them. This lady was stunning however and since visiting this village other places I have visited use her as 'the face' of Paduang long necks - she certainly had the longest one there. Another 86 year old lady was very short but more than happy to have her photo taken and expressed an interest in seeing the pictures. We chatted to another kindly 24 year old lady, keen to practice her english who was also happy to have photos taken. There is mixed felings about visiting hill tribes here. One doesnt want to play voyeur but equally it is seen as a source of income for the villagers who apparantly originally came from Myanmar but are not recognised by the Thai government. However I also heard from Max that the 250 baht entrance fee was largely for the government who capitlised upon the potential market of long necks. The people we taked to all obviously wanted us to buy from their stalls, which I felt bad about but we had already paid the relatively expensive fee of a fiver to get in to the village and we were only there an hour. The dress is very colourful and they wear ribbons in their hair also. I was told one neck coil weighed 5 kilos and putting it on was quite uncomfortable, it sat awkwardly on the collar bone and made turning your head difficult. Obviously it doesnt stretch the neck, rather it discourages the collar bones to grow propery, supressing it with the weight of the coils. They claimed to never take these coils off even to sleep but I have heard otherwise. Wandering around, we for a while took over a class of village children who actually spoke quite good english. I taught them a hand clapping game and we were exchanging questions and banter. I also bought a braclet off a women with dangly ear lobes - she let me touch them it was very bizarre!! I noticed bible versus in one of the classrooms and was quite suprised - I later learned that they converted to christianity through the American Baptist Mission. The down side of it is that mch of their traditional songs have been forgotten and lost being replaced by hymns.
We left again at 3, eager to get back before it got dark partly for safety but also the annoying flies and insects plaguing the roads. Yes I was hungry but I draw the line a little black things. We kept going fairly consistently only stopping to switch drivers or get petrol (whole trip there and back cost 200 baht which was about 6/7 hours worth of driving - we must have used a lot of fuel on the copious uphills and also using the breaks a lot on the many bends.
By this point I was getting a bit tired and grumpy and had a bit of a headache and just wanted to get home! The novelty had kinda worn off and it was intense driving safely. We got back about 6.15 - so 3 hours 15 with gas breaks not bad then we grabbed a shower and went out to eat, sorted out the money we owed each other and grabbed some food. I was in a pretty foul mood by this point when Im that tired I dont have patience with anything or anyone. I ate the first fish since my trip here, and the fish itself was fine but the garlic it came with were literally cloves you munched whole and the sauce was really hot too so I really skipped the veg and had only fish and rice! You win some, you lose some!
Stayed at Max's we didnt got out for drinks just chilled in the hut writing blogs etc and him cleaning his eyebrow ring...!
Money spent: Breakfast and accomodation 135 baht, water 6 baht, water 12 baht, bag 139 baht, accomodation 75 baht, food 185 baht, bike 50 baht, hill tribe 250 baht, bracelet 100 baht, mud mask 60 baht. evening meal 180 baht. TOTAL: 1192 baht / 23.84 pounds.
Best thing: Long necks
Worst thing: Hours of driving, sore bum, tired and grumpy by end of day!
Today we woke up to the sound of the annoying announcements (what is it with Thai people dont they ever want a lie in?!). I slept really well until I got cold then was tossing and turning. The bed was huge though (one of the great things about Thailand huge beds come as standard) and also firm mattress which I like. It was a fair drive to the hill tribe village - Karen, long necks near Mae Hong Song west of Pia towards the Burmese border) and we didnt set off until after breakfast at 10.30. Couldnt really be bothered to get up and neither of us had a clock or alarm which didnt make life easy! It's weird here with food - basically if you order together, the food never arrives at the same time and they may even make another meal inbetween! I had pancakes with syrup which were delicious! Max is ovbiouslt bad influence on me I think I am now hooked on pancakes. The little town had a thriving market and I briefly took the opportunity to walk around while we fuelled up, once again the only westerner. I read in teh bar menu that only about 2 tourists come through every month which I find hard to believe in one way but I suppose most tourists would fly to Mae Hong Song or get the bus over the mountains or even bike it in one day so that's maybe why.
Once we had set off, (Max driving to begin with) after a while we passed a sign saying 'mud springs' so we took a 5 k detour so I could check out what I hoped to be a mud bath! Unfortunately it wasn't - so I had a mud face mask instead which was absolutely gorgeous and cost 60 baht. My skin feels so smoooooth!
Driving onto the village, despite a few guessed turns - road signs in Thailand are rather sparce or non-existent! - we arrived about 2pm later than planned. It was well worth the visit though - one lady truly had a very long giraffe like (although I think she would prefer the word swan-like) neck. We first saw only her face and elongated neck gentyl rocking and visible over the top of a wash screen - upon later inspection (slightly cautiously as one couldn't really tell if she was dressed or not) she was scrubbing her brass coils around her neck and calf muscles (which were very tight and looked very painful) - and I noticed with all the women they sort of had dry skin or scabs around this part of their legs. They were so tight I can't imagine any air getting to them. This lady was stunning however and since visiting this village other places I have visited use her as 'the face' of Paduang long necks - she certainly had the longest one there. Another 86 year old lady was very short but more than happy to have her photo taken and expressed an interest in seeing the pictures. We chatted to another kindly 24 year old lady, keen to practice her english who was also happy to have photos taken. There is mixed felings about visiting hill tribes here. One doesnt want to play voyeur but equally it is seen as a source of income for the villagers who apparantly originally came from Myanmar but are not recognised by the Thai government. However I also heard from Max that the 250 baht entrance fee was largely for the government who capitlised upon the potential market of long necks. The people we taked to all obviously wanted us to buy from their stalls, which I felt bad about but we had already paid the relatively expensive fee of a fiver to get in to the village and we were only there an hour. The dress is very colourful and they wear ribbons in their hair also. I was told one neck coil weighed 5 kilos and putting it on was quite uncomfortable, it sat awkwardly on the collar bone and made turning your head difficult. Obviously it doesnt stretch the neck, rather it discourages the collar bones to grow propery, supressing it with the weight of the coils. They claimed to never take these coils off even to sleep but I have heard otherwise. Wandering around, we for a while took over a class of village children who actually spoke quite good english. I taught them a hand clapping game and we were exchanging questions and banter. I also bought a braclet off a women with dangly ear lobes - she let me touch them it was very bizarre!! I noticed bible versus in one of the classrooms and was quite suprised - I later learned that they converted to christianity through the American Baptist Mission. The down side of it is that mch of their traditional songs have been forgotten and lost being replaced by hymns.
We left again at 3, eager to get back before it got dark partly for safety but also the annoying flies and insects plaguing the roads. Yes I was hungry but I draw the line a little black things. We kept going fairly consistently only stopping to switch drivers or get petrol (whole trip there and back cost 200 baht which was about 6/7 hours worth of driving - we must have used a lot of fuel on the copious uphills and also using the breaks a lot on the many bends.
By this point I was getting a bit tired and grumpy and had a bit of a headache and just wanted to get home! The novelty had kinda worn off and it was intense driving safely. We got back about 6.15 - so 3 hours 15 with gas breaks not bad then we grabbed a shower and went out to eat, sorted out the money we owed each other and grabbed some food. I was in a pretty foul mood by this point when Im that tired I dont have patience with anything or anyone. I ate the first fish since my trip here, and the fish itself was fine but the garlic it came with were literally cloves you munched whole and the sauce was really hot too so I really skipped the veg and had only fish and rice! You win some, you lose some!
Stayed at Max's we didnt got out for drinks just chilled in the hut writing blogs etc and him cleaning his eyebrow ring...!
Money spent: Breakfast and accomodation 135 baht, water 6 baht, water 12 baht, bag 139 baht, accomodation 75 baht, food 185 baht, bike 50 baht, hill tribe 250 baht, bracelet 100 baht, mud mask 60 baht. evening meal 180 baht. TOTAL: 1192 baht / 23.84 pounds.
Best thing: Long necks
Worst thing: Hours of driving, sore bum, tired and grumpy by end of day!
Monday 23rd - Pai Road trip day 1 (caves)
Monday 23rd - Pai Road trip day 1 (caves)
Today I got up and sorted myself out (had to check out as wont be here tonight) and motored up to the touristy type pool where I chilled (missing having a good book still) and then 1.30ish the guys turned up that I knew from Chamg Mai. Theyre little crowd have dissipitated somewhat but all are en route or already in Laos. The America bar girls also arrived - they remind me of a some double act as they are best friends of many years but act like twins - they laugh the same, they talk the same, they gesture the same, they dress the same. They also have an innocence about them even though half the guys in Pai probably fancy them! It would have been a laugh staying at the pool but me and Max left for our road trip as planned about 3pm, well 3.30 by the time we had put in fuel etc. I managed to put my bag in his hut for the night which was cool as he had been there a week they let him use it for free. We headed off on the bikes, with helmets this time! I had heard horror stories about people getting into accidents and the rest of the gang thought we were nuts but we were both of the same mind - be slow, be safe. There were quite a few dangerous curves in the road but we were fine. We got to the caves just after 5pm and saw caves 2 and 3 with our guide and a lantern. It was pretty cool seeing the columns and rocks forming animals shapes like monkeys and crocodiles (I'm sure there is some sophisticated name for this and if I could be bothered Id look it up but I cant!). We also went on a bamboo raft between caves which was quite mysterious in the darkness, as you could hear the millions of bats squeaking way above and making out the occassional flutter of flights, but the cave was so high and so dark we couldnt see them. The best part was at the end when something like 30,000 swifts returned to the cave for the night and the bats went out. It was amazing, we were there for about 30-45 mins and there was just a steady path of movement but we had to leave by the time it was all over. We had intended to drive all the way to Mae Hong Song today, but consdiering the roads we decided it was too risky (no such thing as road lamps here!) so we stayed the night near the caves, managing to find a room for 200 baht. It reminded me of a caravan actually - simple but nice decor - and is so far the cheapest accomodation I have found in Thailand. Its so not so nice having to go out in the freezing cold to use a tepid shower though! We ate across the road in a really nice bar / restaurant, except for some English women (the only other westerner I saw the whole time I was there) whose son owned the bar (married a Thai who was very beautiful.) She was a bit mad and talked a lot about random things! We had quite an early night knowing we've now got a longer drive tomorrow but it has been a really nice day and evening and was good to just chill rather than the stress of driving.
Money spent: Bike 50 baht, petrol 70 baht, caves 125 baht, bread 20 baht, water 7 baht. Food 135 baht. TOTAL: 407 BAHT / 8.14
Best bit: Caves and meal in bar.
Worst bit: Having to leave my gorgeous hut over the river after only one night sob sob.
Sunday, 22 February 2009
Saturday 22nd Febuary - Pai day 1
Slept well and woke up 9am. This place is actually quite nice in the daylight, albeit basic and you have to go downstairs to find a loo! OK the shower room was foul glad I'm moving on from here! Checked out and relocated to the Family Bungalows, getting a hut for 150 baht again. Is so gorgeous crossing the bamboo bridge over the river and then walking on the path through the flowers to get to no.7. Its actually stunning, out of some fairytale. The hut is very small but it is ample. I have a double matttress on the floor with a mosquito net, and a fan and one electricity socket and indoor and patio light. I also have a quilt ;) I can see the mountains from my balcony. I've had such a cool day. I treated myself to an America breakfast - needed some western food! - for 120 baht. Think it was the first coffee Ive had sine I got here. I realised I have severely minimised my caffeine intake in Thailand, and increased my water consumpion no end so its all good even if I'm not going to a gym! I went to hire a moped for 100 baht for 24 hours and saw Nelson at 9/11. We rode up to Tree House to collet My Italian guy aka lailai (his name is Emmanuel but Thai people cant say it so everyone knows him as Lai lai I didnt think to ask how it was slept though! - and onto an out of the way river where we had a dip and I epilated my legs. I know I have no shame! The scenery in this place is stunning. I am taking pictures everywhere I go because it is so beautoful. There is a magic, feel good atmosphere about Pai. I was relieved that the sun was just as strong in the day as I have thus far been accustomed to (!) but it does severely drop at night.
We rode on to a wonderful waterful called Ma Poeng. It was quite busy, being Sunday with the Thais and children off school but was still great. I dont know what I enjoy more about this place but there is something very freeing about being able to hop on a moped and go wherever you want. I think I appreciate it more because I havn't had my own car for so many years. I am not wearing a helmet because its frankly a pain in the arse and nobody does anyway. (If you're reading this, don't tell my Mum!)
I have decided I love motorbikes. It is so much more laid back than England - sometimes you see 4 people on one! Wow how cheap would that be if the girls were here too! I could happily stay in this region and use it as a base to explore the whole of northern Thailand by bike. It is so tempting. It is so tempting just to stay here. To spend weeks in this wonderful place exploring every nook and cranny. Anyway...
Leaving the waterfall as the sun went down, I said bye to lai lai as he had to go and do his bonfire (!) and I went to watch the sunset at the Pai canyon. Again stunning. Panoramic views of mountains on both sides of the valley. I motored back towards Pai to do to this theatre thing I been handed a flyer about earlier in the day, - cyrogenics I think it was called but I've lost the flyer - which while it didn't make complete sense to me was very visually interesting and just good to be around theatre in whatever form. I also got chatting to a guy who runs meditation courses nearby. It has no spiritual emphasis and to be honest I m quite interested only of course I'm moving onto Vietnam and Laos and Cambodia...
Anyway, came back to the bungalows would normally shower right about now but its too cold!!
I chugged up to the Tree House (I found it OK!) just in time to get some leftover food at about 9.30pm. I wanted and needed a fire as it is so bloody cold! Its the only thing about this place that isnt so great! Also i imagine Id get bored here after a while because theres not much to do in the evenings apart from drink which I'm not really that in to. I imagine thats what its like for my brother Ed who does a lot of ski and summer seasons in holoday resorts. Me and Lai lai headed into town to Tik tak or something (really should pay more attention to names - normally I refer to a map while writing my blog to remember where I've just been!) - and who should I see but the guys from Chang Mai who I had hung out my very first night when I arrived late from Sukkothie. It was good to see a friendly face, and I also met some new people such as Max from New York. We both wanted to go to Mae Hong Song which is a long motorbike ride away (by my standards) at about 3 hours or so, however there are some good caves on the way which are worth seeing and which I intend to use to break up my journey. Max is 23, a writer, and we gossiped about the industry and had a silly time trying to switch accents. Neither of us was very good. In fact he distincly sounded like some french porn star. It was very very funny. I stayed up with him by the bonfire far too late really. I'll regret it tomorrow. But hey ho. We have decided to leave tomorrow at 3 o clock. Road trip! Yay! I hope we get there without complication, and of course, any accidents. We have decided to share a bike to help with costs and so we get breaks from driving. Will be nice to have the company I doubt I'd do it by myself because so long on a bike.
I went to sleep at like 4.30am. Why oh why.
Money spent: 150 baht last nights room (single room, shared bathroom, no towel.) 100 baht moped hire (24 hours,) 70 baht petrol, 120 american breakfast, 5 baht water, batteries 25 baht, 7 baht water, 20 baht coke. 150 baht tonights accomodation (hut, shared bathroom, no towel, gorgeous views!, 150 baht mojito, 50 baht happy house gin and lemonade. TOTAL 847 / 16.94
Best thing: Buzzing about and discovering places on mopeds
Worst thing: Having tummy cramps from last nights chicken and the time of the month (sorry, guys).
Slept well and woke up 9am. This place is actually quite nice in the daylight, albeit basic and you have to go downstairs to find a loo! OK the shower room was foul glad I'm moving on from here! Checked out and relocated to the Family Bungalows, getting a hut for 150 baht again. Is so gorgeous crossing the bamboo bridge over the river and then walking on the path through the flowers to get to no.7. Its actually stunning, out of some fairytale. The hut is very small but it is ample. I have a double matttress on the floor with a mosquito net, and a fan and one electricity socket and indoor and patio light. I also have a quilt ;) I can see the mountains from my balcony. I've had such a cool day. I treated myself to an America breakfast - needed some western food! - for 120 baht. Think it was the first coffee Ive had sine I got here. I realised I have severely minimised my caffeine intake in Thailand, and increased my water consumpion no end so its all good even if I'm not going to a gym! I went to hire a moped for 100 baht for 24 hours and saw Nelson at 9/11. We rode up to Tree House to collet My Italian guy aka lailai (his name is Emmanuel but Thai people cant say it so everyone knows him as Lai lai I didnt think to ask how it was slept though! - and onto an out of the way river where we had a dip and I epilated my legs. I know I have no shame! The scenery in this place is stunning. I am taking pictures everywhere I go because it is so beautoful. There is a magic, feel good atmosphere about Pai. I was relieved that the sun was just as strong in the day as I have thus far been accustomed to (!) but it does severely drop at night.
We rode on to a wonderful waterful called Ma Poeng. It was quite busy, being Sunday with the Thais and children off school but was still great. I dont know what I enjoy more about this place but there is something very freeing about being able to hop on a moped and go wherever you want. I think I appreciate it more because I havn't had my own car for so many years. I am not wearing a helmet because its frankly a pain in the arse and nobody does anyway. (If you're reading this, don't tell my Mum!)
I have decided I love motorbikes. It is so much more laid back than England - sometimes you see 4 people on one! Wow how cheap would that be if the girls were here too! I could happily stay in this region and use it as a base to explore the whole of northern Thailand by bike. It is so tempting. It is so tempting just to stay here. To spend weeks in this wonderful place exploring every nook and cranny. Anyway...
Leaving the waterfall as the sun went down, I said bye to lai lai as he had to go and do his bonfire (!) and I went to watch the sunset at the Pai canyon. Again stunning. Panoramic views of mountains on both sides of the valley. I motored back towards Pai to do to this theatre thing I been handed a flyer about earlier in the day, - cyrogenics I think it was called but I've lost the flyer - which while it didn't make complete sense to me was very visually interesting and just good to be around theatre in whatever form. I also got chatting to a guy who runs meditation courses nearby. It has no spiritual emphasis and to be honest I m quite interested only of course I'm moving onto Vietnam and Laos and Cambodia...
Anyway, came back to the bungalows would normally shower right about now but its too cold!!
I chugged up to the Tree House (I found it OK!) just in time to get some leftover food at about 9.30pm. I wanted and needed a fire as it is so bloody cold! Its the only thing about this place that isnt so great! Also i imagine Id get bored here after a while because theres not much to do in the evenings apart from drink which I'm not really that in to. I imagine thats what its like for my brother Ed who does a lot of ski and summer seasons in holoday resorts. Me and Lai lai headed into town to Tik tak or something (really should pay more attention to names - normally I refer to a map while writing my blog to remember where I've just been!) - and who should I see but the guys from Chang Mai who I had hung out my very first night when I arrived late from Sukkothie. It was good to see a friendly face, and I also met some new people such as Max from New York. We both wanted to go to Mae Hong Song which is a long motorbike ride away (by my standards) at about 3 hours or so, however there are some good caves on the way which are worth seeing and which I intend to use to break up my journey. Max is 23, a writer, and we gossiped about the industry and had a silly time trying to switch accents. Neither of us was very good. In fact he distincly sounded like some french porn star. It was very very funny. I stayed up with him by the bonfire far too late really. I'll regret it tomorrow. But hey ho. We have decided to leave tomorrow at 3 o clock. Road trip! Yay! I hope we get there without complication, and of course, any accidents. We have decided to share a bike to help with costs and so we get breaks from driving. Will be nice to have the company I doubt I'd do it by myself because so long on a bike.
I went to sleep at like 4.30am. Why oh why.
Money spent: 150 baht last nights room (single room, shared bathroom, no towel.) 100 baht moped hire (24 hours,) 70 baht petrol, 120 american breakfast, 5 baht water, batteries 25 baht, 7 baht water, 20 baht coke. 150 baht tonights accomodation (hut, shared bathroom, no towel, gorgeous views!, 150 baht mojito, 50 baht happy house gin and lemonade. TOTAL 847 / 16.94
Best thing: Buzzing about and discovering places on mopeds
Worst thing: Having tummy cramps from last nights chicken and the time of the month (sorry, guys).
21st Feb - Chang Mai day 2
Friday 21st Feb - Chang Mia day 2
I am sitting in bed writing this at the end of a looonng but good day. I am in Pai. I am sleeping above a rather loud bar! Basically I decided yesterday I wasnt gonna go on the trek with the girls, instead seeing Doi Suthep and Wat U Mong before hopefully catching a bus to Pai (Last one leaves at 4).Pai has this aura of mystery around it - and an expectation that you always end up staying longer than planned! I guess I am loosly thinking I will stay here 3 nights before heading off. But hot springs may change my mind ;) )
I basically slept so bad I felt I didnt sleep at all. Dunno why, especially after that vigorous Thai massage! That was enough to exhaust anyone! I wandered along the road to see about hiring a scooter as I was up so early so I could let the girls know I wasn't going with them on their day trek and also to return Laurens phone which I had used as a alarm clock (STILL need ot buy one desperado!!) and just to say bye as I wouldnt see them again til Laos - and didnt want to wake the Irish guy up. 'Tonys bikes' didnt recommend me tootling off by myself being unused to motorbikes. So I hung out at the guest house for a while, and me and Mr Irish guy headed off on his 750 cc motorbike when he woke up. I'm not used to being a motorbike passenger, so probably was a little bit tense especially in the local crazy traffic but I soon felt like a local! and mostly it was a really really cool experience. I felt safe with Irish guy as he had been driving all over northern Thailand, and drives a bike at home too. I love the feeling of going fast, with the wind in the hair, its the same with skiing really. But Thailand is notorious for road accidents and I think its the highest death rate amongst tourists. But its fun, everyone does it, and also was a really good way to get around in the heat as the wind keeps you nice and cool. I think as long as your sensible and dont get cocky its fine.
I liked the atmosphere ay Doi Suthep, it reminded me of a busier and somehow more cultural version of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as there was love Thai music playing, and dancing by kids from local schools. There was also a market nearby where I bought a couple of bracelets for 100 baht. The dancers used their hands so eloquantly, they seemed to take on a life of their own. I also noticed that in a Thai pop music video on the bus from Sukkothai to Chang Mai. They don't sexually grind their was through their music wearing scimpy clothes like in the West. There is much more innocence and class really. The more I experience other cultures the more I can see why England and America have a bad reputation for such things. It seems unecessary and immoral in comparison and quite cheap.
Wat U Mong in the forest had a totally different vibe than the city wats as was very peaceful. Me and Lorcan found a spot in the shade overlooking a lovely lake and chatted for a while. He's been to Thailand before but loves it and is here for 3 weeks this time round. We also fed some catfish which were huge! - and greedy. In the water we also saw some turtles. But it was very muddy and we could only see them when they surfaced. I got back just in time to get a shared taxi to the bus station where I was mentally preparing myself for the challenges of a government bus ride. However it seemed we were being transported in a rather nice taxi / mini bus vehicle which was I later learned double the price but still only a measly 150 baht. It was quite amusing actually as even though there were only 9 seats in the back we were all allocated numbered seats and the driver was very strict about upholding that we sit in the correct places! Gutted I didnt have an end seat as I was sort of dropping off then jumping awake and at one point woke to my head nearly resting on the poor guys shoulder next to me! He was a Thai boy, reallly nice and friendly, visiting his sister in Pai. We got chatting and it emerged he was a buddhist converted to Christianity. I was interested as to how this would happen as it is so dominated by buddhism in this country there seems little opportunity to be exposed to alternative religiions. He didnt understand my question but the guy in front of me said there were missionaries around which would explain it. I wonder why buddhism is respected as a religion, but christianity is generally not in the secular world. Jesus seems to be an offensive world and I dont really know why.
On this bus I got chatting to an Italian guy who seemed quite friendly and once in Pai at about 7.30pm I buzzed off with him on another motorbike to his bungalow (he was paying 60 baht a night but slightly out of town) where he said his friends were cooking. I wish I arrived in the day time in this place - the camp site was obviously high on a hill - I could see the lights of Pai and the name treetops also gave it away somewhat! The stars were really clear. I arrived really really tired and hungry and really I should have just parted from this guy in town and found a room but he seemed so helpful I didnt want to offend him and thought it would be nice to hang out with some people who had been here a ong time and knew where to go etc.
The bus stop was in the middle of the central main street. It looks like a really really lovely place I can tell Im going to like it already.
Arriving there was nelson, a guy called Alex, a spanish girl and a girl from Birmingham who had just been travelling in India. We ended up eating a gorgeous baked potato, chicken and rice soup all cooked over a camp fire which for those that know me is my idea of a good meal! It was so late by the time we actually ate it my stomach was turning insode out. But it was worth the wait. I love fire, I love camping,and I love food - this had all elements! I just wish I wasn't so tired!!!
What a life, Pai seems to be the kinda place people come to stay for long periods of time or always kinda find themselves coming back to as in the case of Nelson, whose fire and utensils we were using. The italian guy E offered that I could stay in his hut the night but you've got to have some controls, he seemed nice but I didn't know him and I couldn't be bothered with worrying whether he might try it on so come 11 o'clock another guy Alex (who has been basically travelling and working his way around the world for like 12 years) gave me a ride to find a room. As I feared by this time it was difficult and I wished I had put my foot down when I first arrived and checked in somewhere straight away rather than go with the flow (but I didnt want to offend E as he had rang ahead to see if there was a spare bungalow at his place and invited me to dinner with him and his friends which was very kind.)
Did find a place above a bar but tomorrow will try to move to riverside view - basically a magical place right on the river where I think irish guy Lorcan stayed when he was here. You have to see the photos to believe it! Apparantly it gets full at weekends because of Thais coming for weekend breaks.
I thought it was too bad to arrive in Pai my first night and go to bed however tired I was so came back out. We started off in Jacks, got on the bikes to go to a reggae party which wasn't happening so we ended up at bamboo bar. I wsh there were bars like this back home! They had a couple of fires and the atmosphere was great. To be honest by this time it was really dead so I called it a night.
Its definately signifiantly colder here than anywhere else in Thailand. In one way it is a nice change but it really threw me as Im used to nor worrying about wearing clothing for warmth. At night there is a definate chill that reminds me of England (NOO!!!). Thus far accomodations I have stayed in has given me only a sheet to sleep under, Here it is a kind of padded sheet or thin quilt, and I asked for an extra blanket which just about did me. The lady who works here said only two weeks ago they were all wearing gloves and woolly hats! Incredible!
Reading a newspaper today I noted that the weather in Ko Pang Yang and Ko Tao was considered 'Hazerdous' and Bankok and the midlands 'unhealthy' heat. I think this trip has been timed pretty well so far but methinks Vietnam will be another story!
Money spent: Water and bread 25 baht, 50 taxi car, 150 bus to Pai, 100 baht bracelets, 20 baht strawberries, 15 sandwiiches, 35 drinks, 60 baht 2 x entrance to Doi Suthep, 100 bat beers. TOTAL: 520 baht / 10 pounds 40.
Best thing: Motorbiking round Chamg Mai with Irish guy Lorcan and bonfire meal.
Worst thing: Not having slept last night.
I am sitting in bed writing this at the end of a looonng but good day. I am in Pai. I am sleeping above a rather loud bar! Basically I decided yesterday I wasnt gonna go on the trek with the girls, instead seeing Doi Suthep and Wat U Mong before hopefully catching a bus to Pai (Last one leaves at 4).Pai has this aura of mystery around it - and an expectation that you always end up staying longer than planned! I guess I am loosly thinking I will stay here 3 nights before heading off. But hot springs may change my mind ;) )
I basically slept so bad I felt I didnt sleep at all. Dunno why, especially after that vigorous Thai massage! That was enough to exhaust anyone! I wandered along the road to see about hiring a scooter as I was up so early so I could let the girls know I wasn't going with them on their day trek and also to return Laurens phone which I had used as a alarm clock (STILL need ot buy one desperado!!) and just to say bye as I wouldnt see them again til Laos - and didnt want to wake the Irish guy up. 'Tonys bikes' didnt recommend me tootling off by myself being unused to motorbikes. So I hung out at the guest house for a while, and me and Mr Irish guy headed off on his 750 cc motorbike when he woke up. I'm not used to being a motorbike passenger, so probably was a little bit tense especially in the local crazy traffic but I soon felt like a local! and mostly it was a really really cool experience. I felt safe with Irish guy as he had been driving all over northern Thailand, and drives a bike at home too. I love the feeling of going fast, with the wind in the hair, its the same with skiing really. But Thailand is notorious for road accidents and I think its the highest death rate amongst tourists. But its fun, everyone does it, and also was a really good way to get around in the heat as the wind keeps you nice and cool. I think as long as your sensible and dont get cocky its fine.
I liked the atmosphere ay Doi Suthep, it reminded me of a busier and somehow more cultural version of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as there was love Thai music playing, and dancing by kids from local schools. There was also a market nearby where I bought a couple of bracelets for 100 baht. The dancers used their hands so eloquantly, they seemed to take on a life of their own. I also noticed that in a Thai pop music video on the bus from Sukkothai to Chang Mai. They don't sexually grind their was through their music wearing scimpy clothes like in the West. There is much more innocence and class really. The more I experience other cultures the more I can see why England and America have a bad reputation for such things. It seems unecessary and immoral in comparison and quite cheap.
Wat U Mong in the forest had a totally different vibe than the city wats as was very peaceful. Me and Lorcan found a spot in the shade overlooking a lovely lake and chatted for a while. He's been to Thailand before but loves it and is here for 3 weeks this time round. We also fed some catfish which were huge! - and greedy. In the water we also saw some turtles. But it was very muddy and we could only see them when they surfaced. I got back just in time to get a shared taxi to the bus station where I was mentally preparing myself for the challenges of a government bus ride. However it seemed we were being transported in a rather nice taxi / mini bus vehicle which was I later learned double the price but still only a measly 150 baht. It was quite amusing actually as even though there were only 9 seats in the back we were all allocated numbered seats and the driver was very strict about upholding that we sit in the correct places! Gutted I didnt have an end seat as I was sort of dropping off then jumping awake and at one point woke to my head nearly resting on the poor guys shoulder next to me! He was a Thai boy, reallly nice and friendly, visiting his sister in Pai. We got chatting and it emerged he was a buddhist converted to Christianity. I was interested as to how this would happen as it is so dominated by buddhism in this country there seems little opportunity to be exposed to alternative religiions. He didnt understand my question but the guy in front of me said there were missionaries around which would explain it. I wonder why buddhism is respected as a religion, but christianity is generally not in the secular world. Jesus seems to be an offensive world and I dont really know why.
On this bus I got chatting to an Italian guy who seemed quite friendly and once in Pai at about 7.30pm I buzzed off with him on another motorbike to his bungalow (he was paying 60 baht a night but slightly out of town) where he said his friends were cooking. I wish I arrived in the day time in this place - the camp site was obviously high on a hill - I could see the lights of Pai and the name treetops also gave it away somewhat! The stars were really clear. I arrived really really tired and hungry and really I should have just parted from this guy in town and found a room but he seemed so helpful I didnt want to offend him and thought it would be nice to hang out with some people who had been here a ong time and knew where to go etc.
The bus stop was in the middle of the central main street. It looks like a really really lovely place I can tell Im going to like it already.
Arriving there was nelson, a guy called Alex, a spanish girl and a girl from Birmingham who had just been travelling in India. We ended up eating a gorgeous baked potato, chicken and rice soup all cooked over a camp fire which for those that know me is my idea of a good meal! It was so late by the time we actually ate it my stomach was turning insode out. But it was worth the wait. I love fire, I love camping,and I love food - this had all elements! I just wish I wasn't so tired!!!
What a life, Pai seems to be the kinda place people come to stay for long periods of time or always kinda find themselves coming back to as in the case of Nelson, whose fire and utensils we were using. The italian guy E offered that I could stay in his hut the night but you've got to have some controls, he seemed nice but I didn't know him and I couldn't be bothered with worrying whether he might try it on so come 11 o'clock another guy Alex (who has been basically travelling and working his way around the world for like 12 years) gave me a ride to find a room. As I feared by this time it was difficult and I wished I had put my foot down when I first arrived and checked in somewhere straight away rather than go with the flow (but I didnt want to offend E as he had rang ahead to see if there was a spare bungalow at his place and invited me to dinner with him and his friends which was very kind.)
Did find a place above a bar but tomorrow will try to move to riverside view - basically a magical place right on the river where I think irish guy Lorcan stayed when he was here. You have to see the photos to believe it! Apparantly it gets full at weekends because of Thais coming for weekend breaks.
I thought it was too bad to arrive in Pai my first night and go to bed however tired I was so came back out. We started off in Jacks, got on the bikes to go to a reggae party which wasn't happening so we ended up at bamboo bar. I wsh there were bars like this back home! They had a couple of fires and the atmosphere was great. To be honest by this time it was really dead so I called it a night.
Its definately signifiantly colder here than anywhere else in Thailand. In one way it is a nice change but it really threw me as Im used to nor worrying about wearing clothing for warmth. At night there is a definate chill that reminds me of England (NOO!!!). Thus far accomodations I have stayed in has given me only a sheet to sleep under, Here it is a kind of padded sheet or thin quilt, and I asked for an extra blanket which just about did me. The lady who works here said only two weeks ago they were all wearing gloves and woolly hats! Incredible!
Reading a newspaper today I noted that the weather in Ko Pang Yang and Ko Tao was considered 'Hazerdous' and Bankok and the midlands 'unhealthy' heat. I think this trip has been timed pretty well so far but methinks Vietnam will be another story!
Money spent: Water and bread 25 baht, 50 taxi car, 150 bus to Pai, 100 baht bracelets, 20 baht strawberries, 15 sandwiiches, 35 drinks, 60 baht 2 x entrance to Doi Suthep, 100 bat beers. TOTAL: 520 baht / 10 pounds 40.
Best thing: Motorbiking round Chamg Mai with Irish guy Lorcan and bonfire meal.
Worst thing: Not having slept last night.
Friday, 20 February 2009
20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai
Thursday 20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai
Ive been here 2 weeks now! And done so much already!
I suprisingly woke up at 9am considering last night late escapades. I showered, actually appreciating a warm (hot would be pushing it) shower for the first time since I got here) and went around to the girls, who are staying just around the corner. I slept quite well last night and may as well stay here to be less disruptive to everyone. I woke them up about 9.45 and I kinda got the impression they wern't in any rush to go anywhere! It's great being back with them again but find it a little frustrating they take so long to get going in the morning (especially when they are working to limited time factors) because its like nearly afternoon by the time we've had breakfast! Anyway, I tootled off to get necessary things like malaria tablets (soooo cheap!! - 5 quid for 10 weeks supply!), deet spray and more sun tan lotion, and got a little lost but I found my way back by 11.15 and they were still in their room! We had breakfast (muesli and orange juice) and then we set off to the walking tour of the important temples as suggested by lonely planet. They are all pretty cool to be honest but I especially liked Wat Phang Tao, an 'unsung treasure' of Chang Mai - a gorgeous teak temple, and Wat Phra Singh, the most impressive temple in Chang Mai, with the citys most revered buddha image. At Wat Chedi Luang, we chatted with a 20 year old monk. He had been a novice monk since the age of 12, and a proper monk for 3 years so far. He was an extremely friendly guy, full of laughter and smiles. We chatted about general things and then I asked some questions about buddhism. He told us monks have something like 223 forbidden rules (and with a sideways cheeky glance he confessed he couldnt remember them all, followed by a giggle!) We had to be careful not to make contact with him for this reason, as purity, virtue and something else and are the 3 aspects of his religion - he explained that women were 'dangerous!' Discipline and d? are also important to him. They do believe Buddha is alive, and the purpose of their faith is to attain nirvana, a state he believes he is close to as a monk but he also said he was a monk on the inside and the outside. Other people may not outwardly be adorned as such but may be a monk on the inside. Later, when I and the girls were chatting about him, Lauren commented that he was very unaffected and genuine, he did not impose his religion on others like some christian evanglists but was happy to explain and answer questions if people we interested. I know what she meant. This man was quietly living out his religion, but not inflicting it on anyone else. And this makes it more attractive. People are drawn to the qualities they display and the virtues are all honourable and good. I suppose monks in england are the same though, it doesnt necessarily reflect religious orientation.
The second monk we talked to at a different temple (these temples have allocated space for 'monk chat' - they are often keen to practice their english and share their religion) had a weaker grasp of English and couldnt answer my question as to whether they wore anything under their robes! I completely misinterpreted Lauren when she mentioned after the first chat that she meant to ask if they wore other clothes. She meant as in casual clothes, but of course I took it to mean like scots wear kilts, an analogy I tried to use on the poor unsuspecting young monk, which was lost on him!
Dont think me too bad though. The novice, younger monks made no pretence in their interest in the ladies. I got called 'beautiful' - do they know my age?! - and all my friends witnessed their adolescent glances and giggles. Boys will be boys, novice monk or no! It is a strange scene though, in the last temple we visited they were absolutely everywhere.
Ok here's the funniest bit. I had a Thai massage. By the females in the womens prison. For some reason, I thought Thai massage was a nice relaxing, well english massage, but er in Thailand...?! Basically being ignorant to the cultural differences I just assumed a massage was a massage was a massage. How wrong I was. The first clue was the fact we had to put strange garnments on. Lauren, seeing my confused face enlightened me to the fact it was more about pulling and pushing you around than actual body tissue massage - that was an oil massage. Oh. Great! So much for the relaxing session I had been so anticipating! These women were amazing though. They used their own muscle strength and leverage and what not to really manipulate and pummel my body and I do mean pummel, gently these convicts were not! It really was so physical - they used their entire bodies to 'massage' me ie simultaneoulsy giving me pain and well more pain actually m it wasnt really until afterwards you feel the benefit although I did particularly enjoy having my feet washed and the small bits of time they more traditionally massage your hands and back (with a few elbows thrown into the mix and she did threated to stand on my back! - it was incredible to me they had so much agility and energy. Agile or no, you are when you finish as they force your body into strange contortions and swing and throw you around in rabdom positions but the whole thing is ingenious actually and I would definately have it again.
It was, really rather painful in parts but it left me feeling deeply rejuvinated and relaxed and more flexible somehow. I wondered if so much force was really needed - is this a buch of sado-masochists, or is this punishment to the world that imprisoned them? I do not know - this was Laurens 3rd Thai massage and one that she said was definately the hardest. But they didnt show their effort. They chatted and smiled their way though like a bunch of teenage girls, being true Thai and even treating work with a sense of play.
We had dinner in the main square and then headed back before the Thai boxing match. Its called My Thai or thats how its prounounced it must be mae thai - and a combination of boxing and martial arts. The boxers do a kind of dance as their warm up in the ring, and they do their little worship actions to each other and the corners of the ring, possibly something to do with an amulet around their heads which they remove before they fight. There is a LOT of respect between the fighters and you get the feeling they are friends having a bout rather than having a serious competition. However, some strong kicks and punches were soon flying around so I'm sure it was misleading. Once I had cheated and stood near the VIP area with a better view it was much more interesting, you could see the sweat, the muscles flexing, the facial expressions. The atmosphere was also better. The highlight was an australian guy who knocked his opponant out in the 2nd round! I really enjoyed it and we are all tempted to do a thai boxing workshop. I think it is so good the respect in this country though. It is a mutual submission all the time and is lovely.
We got a tuk tuk back and I got chatting to a Irish guy in my guest house. He is the 2nd person who has recommended Pai to me so I am tempted to split with the girls again and meet them in Laos. I had decided I was gonna go along with them on their one day trek. But now I may join this irish guy on his motorbike so I finishing the sites of Chang Mai before heading off to do some far north rural Thailand. Glad I started my anti malaria tablets today! Still gonna get up early to tell the girls what my plan is. Excited again. Hope it works out and we meet up in Luang Prabang.
Best thing: Cheap cheap cheap anti-malarials (5 pounds for 10 weeks), chatting with monks and Thai Massage and Thai boxing match.
Worst thing: Just bit tired and would have liked to have seen the other temple and started out a bit earlier and done more so more time to chill and rest before boxing.
Money spent: 150 accomodation, 80 breakfast, 10 bread, 12 water, 750 pharmacy supplies, black skirt, 200 Thai massage, 20 baht orange juice, 155 dinner (proper western pasta, olives, mozerella.) purse 35 baht, boxing match 350 baht, coke 20 baht, tuk tuk x 2 40 baht..TOTAL 1072 BAHT / 10.72 and 750 baht / 15 quid for pills not included in everyday budget.
Ive been here 2 weeks now! And done so much already!
I suprisingly woke up at 9am considering last night late escapades. I showered, actually appreciating a warm (hot would be pushing it) shower for the first time since I got here) and went around to the girls, who are staying just around the corner. I slept quite well last night and may as well stay here to be less disruptive to everyone. I woke them up about 9.45 and I kinda got the impression they wern't in any rush to go anywhere! It's great being back with them again but find it a little frustrating they take so long to get going in the morning (especially when they are working to limited time factors) because its like nearly afternoon by the time we've had breakfast! Anyway, I tootled off to get necessary things like malaria tablets (soooo cheap!! - 5 quid for 10 weeks supply!), deet spray and more sun tan lotion, and got a little lost but I found my way back by 11.15 and they were still in their room! We had breakfast (muesli and orange juice) and then we set off to the walking tour of the important temples as suggested by lonely planet. They are all pretty cool to be honest but I especially liked Wat Phang Tao, an 'unsung treasure' of Chang Mai - a gorgeous teak temple, and Wat Phra Singh, the most impressive temple in Chang Mai, with the citys most revered buddha image. At Wat Chedi Luang, we chatted with a 20 year old monk. He had been a novice monk since the age of 12, and a proper monk for 3 years so far. He was an extremely friendly guy, full of laughter and smiles. We chatted about general things and then I asked some questions about buddhism. He told us monks have something like 223 forbidden rules (and with a sideways cheeky glance he confessed he couldnt remember them all, followed by a giggle!) We had to be careful not to make contact with him for this reason, as purity, virtue and something else and are the 3 aspects of his religion - he explained that women were 'dangerous!' Discipline and d? are also important to him. They do believe Buddha is alive, and the purpose of their faith is to attain nirvana, a state he believes he is close to as a monk but he also said he was a monk on the inside and the outside. Other people may not outwardly be adorned as such but may be a monk on the inside. Later, when I and the girls were chatting about him, Lauren commented that he was very unaffected and genuine, he did not impose his religion on others like some christian evanglists but was happy to explain and answer questions if people we interested. I know what she meant. This man was quietly living out his religion, but not inflicting it on anyone else. And this makes it more attractive. People are drawn to the qualities they display and the virtues are all honourable and good. I suppose monks in england are the same though, it doesnt necessarily reflect religious orientation.
The second monk we talked to at a different temple (these temples have allocated space for 'monk chat' - they are often keen to practice their english and share their religion) had a weaker grasp of English and couldnt answer my question as to whether they wore anything under their robes! I completely misinterpreted Lauren when she mentioned after the first chat that she meant to ask if they wore other clothes. She meant as in casual clothes, but of course I took it to mean like scots wear kilts, an analogy I tried to use on the poor unsuspecting young monk, which was lost on him!
Dont think me too bad though. The novice, younger monks made no pretence in their interest in the ladies. I got called 'beautiful' - do they know my age?! - and all my friends witnessed their adolescent glances and giggles. Boys will be boys, novice monk or no! It is a strange scene though, in the last temple we visited they were absolutely everywhere.
Ok here's the funniest bit. I had a Thai massage. By the females in the womens prison. For some reason, I thought Thai massage was a nice relaxing, well english massage, but er in Thailand...?! Basically being ignorant to the cultural differences I just assumed a massage was a massage was a massage. How wrong I was. The first clue was the fact we had to put strange garnments on. Lauren, seeing my confused face enlightened me to the fact it was more about pulling and pushing you around than actual body tissue massage - that was an oil massage. Oh. Great! So much for the relaxing session I had been so anticipating! These women were amazing though. They used their own muscle strength and leverage and what not to really manipulate and pummel my body and I do mean pummel, gently these convicts were not! It really was so physical - they used their entire bodies to 'massage' me ie simultaneoulsy giving me pain and well more pain actually m it wasnt really until afterwards you feel the benefit although I did particularly enjoy having my feet washed and the small bits of time they more traditionally massage your hands and back (with a few elbows thrown into the mix and she did threated to stand on my back! - it was incredible to me they had so much agility and energy. Agile or no, you are when you finish as they force your body into strange contortions and swing and throw you around in rabdom positions but the whole thing is ingenious actually and I would definately have it again.
It was, really rather painful in parts but it left me feeling deeply rejuvinated and relaxed and more flexible somehow. I wondered if so much force was really needed - is this a buch of sado-masochists, or is this punishment to the world that imprisoned them? I do not know - this was Laurens 3rd Thai massage and one that she said was definately the hardest. But they didnt show their effort. They chatted and smiled their way though like a bunch of teenage girls, being true Thai and even treating work with a sense of play.
We had dinner in the main square and then headed back before the Thai boxing match. Its called My Thai or thats how its prounounced it must be mae thai - and a combination of boxing and martial arts. The boxers do a kind of dance as their warm up in the ring, and they do their little worship actions to each other and the corners of the ring, possibly something to do with an amulet around their heads which they remove before they fight. There is a LOT of respect between the fighters and you get the feeling they are friends having a bout rather than having a serious competition. However, some strong kicks and punches were soon flying around so I'm sure it was misleading. Once I had cheated and stood near the VIP area with a better view it was much more interesting, you could see the sweat, the muscles flexing, the facial expressions. The atmosphere was also better. The highlight was an australian guy who knocked his opponant out in the 2nd round! I really enjoyed it and we are all tempted to do a thai boxing workshop. I think it is so good the respect in this country though. It is a mutual submission all the time and is lovely.
We got a tuk tuk back and I got chatting to a Irish guy in my guest house. He is the 2nd person who has recommended Pai to me so I am tempted to split with the girls again and meet them in Laos. I had decided I was gonna go along with them on their one day trek. But now I may join this irish guy on his motorbike so I finishing the sites of Chang Mai before heading off to do some far north rural Thailand. Glad I started my anti malaria tablets today! Still gonna get up early to tell the girls what my plan is. Excited again. Hope it works out and we meet up in Luang Prabang.
Best thing: Cheap cheap cheap anti-malarials (5 pounds for 10 weeks), chatting with monks and Thai Massage and Thai boxing match.
Worst thing: Just bit tired and would have liked to have seen the other temple and started out a bit earlier and done more so more time to chill and rest before boxing.
Money spent: 150 accomodation, 80 breakfast, 10 bread, 12 water, 750 pharmacy supplies, black skirt, 200 Thai massage, 20 baht orange juice, 155 dinner (proper western pasta, olives, mozerella.) purse 35 baht, boxing match 350 baht, coke 20 baht, tuk tuk x 2 40 baht..TOTAL 1072 BAHT / 10.72 and 750 baht / 15 quid for pills not included in everyday budget.
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