Zdiar, High Tantra Mountains, Slovakia 22nd & 23rd.

High Tantras: The alpine, snow-strewn High Tatras jut out of the valley floor north of Poprad where we got our train to from Bratislava (then a bus for 1.95 to Zdiar, (beware out of season timetable ie there is a 6.25 pm bus but then not til 9.35pm.)Some five million people a year go to the Tantras to walk, climb, cycle or ski. A 600km network of hiking trails, chairlifts and cable cars reach all the alpine valleys and some peaks, with chaty (mountain huts) to stop at along the way. In high summer and winter seasons, trails are densely crowded. You’ll need to climb further than in Slovakia’s other mountains to have some of it to yourself, but the rewards are breathtaking. - Lonley Planet

Accomodation: Ginger Monkey, Zdiar, High Tantras 13 euros includes breakfast. Wicked hostel except powdered milk and cold rooms! Heating comes on at midnight but not before! But they are great at lending out coats and gloves and giving local info. Many people stay longer than planned. Is a bit of a boozy hostel...nights sleep was interupted quite a lot by late night drinkers!

I actually woke up quite early in Bratislava and spent the best part of 2 hours uploading photos to facebook as my camera memory is nearly full. Then it was quite a rush to get some tesco shopping and walk to the train station for 12.10

On the train to Poprad in the north of Slovakia and the gateway to the Tantras were a bunch of drunken and slightly smelly Slovaks so we were glad when they got off! The journey passed uneventfully, but I really enjoyed the gorgeous scenery esp one region where there were foliage of yellow, greens and browns in a whole variety of hues and like Croatia the landscape changed quite quickly within a short distance.

Due to it being out of season, there was no 5.30 bus so in effect we had to wait 1 1/2 hours in rather cold weather and it was dark by the time we got on the bus (platform 5) but fortunately a couple of kiwi guys were also staying at ginger monkey hostel because in the dark it was hard to see the landmark directions / where to get off that I had copied off of the website, and it was all down to me because Rozie was in effect blind due to not having her contacts in!

First impressions of the hostel: very homely, much busier than I imagined at this time of year, I really like the wood flooring and panelling and warmth of the kitchen and definately looking forward to watching one of their many DVDs in the lounge! They made a Thai green (veg) curry in the evening which we decided to chip into as it seemed the more sociable option than using our organised and rather sub standard pasta and sauce which is almost coming out of my ears! The staff mingle with the guests and there is an air of informality which I like a lot.

There's lots of interesting people here including 6 that bought a camper van and are basically sleeping in it most of the time but hook up with hostels to use the facilities or just a comfy bed as a treat. I would like to do this as its cheaper and a different way of travelling.

Money spent: Shopping 13.23 plus 3.23 shared stuff, Train 14.40, bus 2.20, drink 1.10, accom 13, hostel curry meal 3.

Thurs 22nd first full day

It was quite cold last night but had a cozy duvet and nicked 2 extra blankets from the lounge. Had a nice breakfast which is included (but the free 'all day' tea and coffee use bloody powder milk how crap is that!?) and then headed out on a supposed 2 or 4 hour walk depending on whether you came back after the river walk and before the forest walk or not. Boy oh boy, it was snowy! I didn't really expect this, don't get me wrong it was absolutely awesome but I do not have the right footwear!! Connor, Ro, an American girl called Jackie, me and Wally the dog left at about 11.30 am. We walked down to the bus stop and then started following the green trail with medically hyperactive dog in tow, or should I say nearly pulling my arm out of it's socket. The path itself altered between extreme mud and slush and extreme (deep!) fluffy white snow. It seemed we were arctic explorers, er, but without the map or any sensible gear but wading through thick snow trying to ignore the icy feet feeling as we got progressivly more wet, and as we trampled over hidden footpaths and marker trails, ducking under or struggling over the copious branches that had fallen in the way. We ended up losing the trail and having to scramble up a hill to get our bearings. We wernt too far from the ski lifts and walked back along the concrete road to the hostel stopping by the little corner shop on the way back.

Made pasta and sauce for a late lunch upon our return and had our bread for tea. I think my 1 euros red wine is responsible for my head ache ha ha.

Money spent: Shopping 2.33, accom 13.

Friday 23rd Oct - 2nd day High Tantras

Today I was up and out on the 10.50 bus to do a 5 hour walk with American Jackie and another American guy. This time we lined our shoes with plastic bags we looked like fahionistas baby! the serious trekkers must have wondered what had hit them - but I'm glad we did because the combination of slush, mud and various compositions of snow made life difficult enough! It was quite hard to remain vertical and we all had a few near-falls. Because we bombed it (we actually got to the top in 2 hours rather than 3 and back down in 1 1/2 rather than 2) we were all quite hot, and I kinda wished I didnt have so many clothes on me! But on the descent I was glad I did because my feet were like icicles once again where the good old plastic bags had let the snow through in the end. The walk itself was awesome and it felt so good to be out trekking in the genuinley 'fresh' air! Much of the trek followed a stream which was just so pretty with the fallen snow even if the surrounding visability was quite misty.

We ended up getting the 3.55 bus back which meant time for a shower and a film before heading out to the local pizzeria for the hostels traditional pizza night!

Money spent: Accom 13, pizza and beer 3 euros (shared) and bus 2 euros.

Bratislava, Tues 21th- Weds 22nd Oct

Accomodation: Patio Hostel, Spitalksa 35, 811 08 Bratislava, advertised on web for 6.90 but they added on 10% as we hadn't booked online and also city tax so came to under a tenner in the end.

Bratislava: If you focus on the compact historic centre, you’ll see cobblestoned roads, pedestrian plazas, pastel 18th-century rococo buildings and street cafés galore. Expand your gaze and you can’t miss the institutional housing blocks and bizarre communist construction beyond. An age-old castle shares the skyline with a 1970s UFO-like bridge. And that’s Bratislava: a mix of new, old and older. All of which is worth a look. As post-EU-membership investment pours in, the whir of construction equipment in all quarters signals that Slovakia’s capital is growing. The city has a buzz to it: beautiful people wearing black flock to the newest chichi eatery as soon as it opens. Weekend nights it’d be odd if you didn’t see a gang or two of non-Slovak-speaking blokes wandering around the streets of the old town. There’s something a bit reckless about the development, though. Zoning laws are largely ignored, and an odd mix of antireform-minded parties took control of the parliament in June 2006.

Who knows what the town will be like in a few years, but for now the old centre is supremely strollable. Amble around the mazelike pedestrian alleys, stopping for a coffee – or an adult beverage or two – in cafés along the way. Hike up to the city castle (or head out to the suburbs to see Devín castle). You may want to pop into a museum if it’s raining, but otherwise the best thing to do is just to take in the different views, even as it all changes before your eyes. - from Lonely Planet.

OK so we got on a bus from Vienna at 9.30 am it only took us half and hour to get to the tube station and the bus ride was only a little over an hour - after all Vienna and Bratislava are the two closest capital cities in the world.

Arriving at Novy Most (the sight of the UFO restaurant) near the castle, it was a bit overcast but we found our intended hostel without too much trouble, by far the cheapest in Slovakia. We dumped our bags in the luggage room as check in wasn't til 1pm and wandered around the city, with some retail therapy for Rozie (of course ha ha). She headed back after we had wandered the cute cobbled streets and I strolled up to the castle which I couldn't believe was shut for several months for renovation! I did however find this amazing free photography exhibition - Filip Kulisev 'Amazing Planet' which true to form, actually was amazing! He is a travel photographer and I was blown away with some already awesome landscapes or sights that he managed to capture in a very unusual way - with heightened colour or textures or contours which often made the photos look like paintings. It re-inspired me to visit South America as that is where many of the photos were taken, Bolivia especially looks incredible.

After being at the castle, I met up with Connor (aussie we met in Lake Bled) in the main square. He was just visiting for the day from Vienna, ironically to then go to Krakow which doesn't really geographically make sense but he's staying with a friend so guess he gets the free accom. We enjoyed wandering round some more, me popping into the state opera and philharmonic but there was no shows suitable for us this evening (normally there are really cheap opera seats but the cheapest left was 17 euros and sung in German..) ending up in a slovak pub on Obchonda where I was very disciplined and only had a cappo as I was due to eat there with my sister later, and he ate one of the traditional soup in a roll which is exactly as its name suggests. Its got a great atmosphere and we sat by a wood burning stove which was gorgeous and warm after the coldness outside. I was amazed I had managed to get through the day, my sis had gone back for a sleep which is all I really felt like but didn't want to waste the only day we are here in Bratislava. I imagine in the sun it would be lovely to while away some hours in cafe shops and hanging about in the main square, but in these temperatures you really have to keep moving or perish!

I grabbed a shower hack at the hostel, and then we and 3 guys we met chatting in the common room headed out for some food, again at the Slovak pub which we got a 10% discount at for being with Patio Hostel. I didnt realise but here there are actually free washing and drying facilities! But as we did our washing at Annas we didnt have cause to use them but what a cool idea! Rozie paid 10 euro the last time she did hers.

I ate some traditional meal - Slvak pastry with slovak cheese and something I wish I remembered the name but never mind! On the way to another bar, we went past these cool steps in the path that made musical notes when you stepped - or jumped as in the case of me and my sis - on them!

I really liked Bratislava, wandering the streets again with amazing architecture and a lot of character. I could happily have stayed another day but in reality I have seen what there is to see and need to press on. We're gonna get a train to Porad tomorrow and much of the day will be taken up with travel I wish I had a good book!

Money spent: Bus 6 euros, cappo 1.33 euros, dinner and beer 5 euros in Slovak pub, beer 70 cents, accom 9.80 euros.

Vienna 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th Oct.

Our travel day from Lake Bled was long and uneventful, getting the bus to Ljubjana and then the 6 hour train to Vienna and then another bus to Pilgrimgasse where my friend lives! I had a frustrating morning trying to upload my pics to picasa with Leons aid but it wasnt to be. I did go for a wander for an hour and bought some earings and hairclips and bought and sent a postcard to my Dad - which Leon commented I replaced my rejected cards in completely the wrong place. Its funny hes a nice guy but we are so opposite - he is typically classic in the way he views the world and I am typically romantic. I also have no patience like with Picasa I would rather have spent the time uploading to facebook which while not so good at least would definately get some ground covevered rather than spend so much time trying possibly unsuccessfully to solve a problem. Anway.

I was thrilled to see my friend but it was 10.30 by the time we got off the bus so we went back to hers and shared a bottle of wine. Good start I feel..

Money spent: Bread 60 cents, cheese 1.50 euros, cappo 1.10, jewellery 4.9, hair clips 1.95, bus 6.30, 4 euros mcdonalds.

Saturday 17th - Vienna day 1

Well ladies problems kept me awake much of the night but nuff said. Had a lovely breakfast, anne laid on a proper spread and invited her other friend Diela round who also brought goodies. We headed out to find a flea market abut it was finishing by the time we got there so we headed into town, and in one of the main drags there was a full on pumping flea market which would normally fill me with joy but on a backpackers budget its not much good as i cant buy anything, - damn it! - so me and Ro went on ahead and checked out Stehensplatz which situated a rather grand church which we also looked inside. I was feeling quite crap but realised after heading into an information centre that this night is the only time I could get a standing ticket to the state national opera so I cooked a quick pasta meal at Anne's (one Ive been lugging around since Croatia!) and headed straight back out. Oh boy, I'm glad I did it was ABSOLUTELY amazing. I must watch more opera, the passion, the OTT, even the humour was just brilliant and yes it was 3 hours 15 long with two intervals in this time, but even in my suffering state I wouldnt have been anywhere else I shall never forget it. Forutnately there were sub titles which meant i actually understood everything that was going on and some it was extremely funny like when Tosca was saying to her lover to be careful when he is shot he should fall down feigning death but to be careful he doesn't get hurt because he is not an actor... every time I laughed a middle aged couple turned around and looked at me disaprovingly oh some of the snobbishness thats associated with the opera! And they weren't exactly in the expensive seats either! The way the performers sing though is just incredible - with so much power and gusto. If my sister had been there I know she would have got the giggles! And the middle aged couple would definately would not have approved of THAT!

I returned to the house where the girls were totally drunk and giggly and planning on heading out for a spanish night. I had used up all my energy reserves I had for the day and was still in pain so took some pills and collapsed into bed. As Ro had pretty much passed out due to all the red wine she joined me ha ha. (She now tells me she didnt pass out but CHOSE to sleep!!) Ha, yeah right!

Money spent: Gave anne 7.50 euros between us for breakfast and wine, 13.60 72 hour tube ticket, 3 euro opera ticket.

Sunday 18th Vienna day 2

I woke up and was out at a decent hour rather than waiting impatiently for my sis so went to a palace for 9.50 which took me through 22 of its state rooms. I got back to the apartment to find Ro and Anne still in bed! I waited an hour for Ro to be ready then we headed out and went to Leopold Art gallery which contains many expressionist paintings and which I thought was good but not to Ro's taste! In the evening we chilled out at the apartment drinking the supremely cheap wine then headed out to an Irish Pub with Anne. It was a nice evening and just a good chance to catch up properly.

Money spent: Palace 9.50, 6.50 Leopold Art gallery, 1.65 breakfast, coke at mcdonalds 1 euro, 1.10 drink in Irish pub.

Monday 19th Vienna day 3

We shopped around the pricey central area as what I thought was a palace (The Hoffman) turned out to be a boring museum! Met Anne after her class and looked round her Uni which was grand and a bit Harry Potter-ish. There was actually a graduation ceremony going on and we wandered into the hall where it had just taken place it was amazing. We wandered to the Freud Museum but for the price we werent sure if it was worth it as it was more 'this is where he sat', 'this was his room', etc not actually going into much of his psychoanalysis in much depth so we gave it a miss and headed into the centre. I went off and caught a tram around the old town - basically a lazy way of seeing more of the architecture and Rozie did more shopping surprise surprise honestly a students riches ha ha. We went to a free organ recital in an awesome church 'St Peters' which lasted only half an hour but in the absence of affordable evening concerts was our culture for the day! We went and found out about our bus to Bratislava and was pleased to find the effort paid off - at 6 euros is far cheaper than the train and still only takes an hour hurrah.

Went back to the apartment and did nice travelley things ie would not be found in India! - like having a bath and putting on some washing and making some food and updating my blog. oh its nice to stay with a friend in a more personal setting that a hostel! We watched the girly film '27 dresses' on her laptop before bed, always a nice homely thing to do...

Money spent: 1.07 breakfast, 55 cents coke, 2.5 pizza, 85 cents mars bar, shopping 1.30 pasta ready meal, bread, cheese. Gloves 7.90.

Lake Bled Weds 14th and Lake Bohinj Thurs 15th

Lake Bled

The lake was formed after the recession of the Bohinj glacier. It is up to 2120 m long and up to 1380 m wide, its maximum depth being 30.6 m and tectonic in origin. After the last Ice Age, the Bohinj glacier deepened the natural tectonic hollow and gave into its present form. The basin was filled with water when the ice melted. The lake has no large natural tributaries; it is fed only by a few springs.

The thermal springs in its north-eastern part are led into three swimming pools - Grand Hotel Toplice, Hotel Park and Hotel Golf. The picture-like image of Lake Bled is highlighted by the island in the western part of the lake.

I woke up 8ish and went on the internet before leaving about 9.15am. We got some shopping on the way to the bus station, with Canadian Graham, aussie Hayley and me and Ro. We got the 10am bus and spent most of the journey chatting as we also met a kiwi girl Emma and aussie guy Tim who were realy nice and also heading there for the day.

Once we arrived we found accomodation without much stress for 12 euros, and headed out to walk around the lake also with another guy we met called Rohan, another aussie who was in our dorm. Walking round the lake was really pleasant as it was sunny and very pretty and a good group to chat with along the way. We hired a boat and rowed out to the island in the middle of the lake which had a pastel coloured church on but which I didnt go in because they wanted a few euros and at the end of the day a church is a church! - and we were there and back within the hour which was a miracle but do-able once we had learnt the art of going in a straight line! It actually reminded me of Srinagar in India where I was rowing with Caley and we bickered the whole way like an old married couple! It definately teaches the art of team work!

In the evening we went to yet another free concert than I had seen a poster of, a choir of 111 men on tour from Norway. It really was incredible, I have never heard that many male voices in concert before and especially as they approached the stage and got into formation they were singing 'conquest of paradise' which was just awesome, especially as the song itself builds anticipation as it gets lounder and stronger. When I was chatting to one of the singers in the interval he said they had done the same before in darkness carrying torches which must be even more incredible.

As I adjust to travelling in Europe again instead of Asia I am struck at how much culture there is in Europe and how much I would miss it if I were permanently based elsewhere. It also reminds me of the complicated book I am reading about Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance and the authors explanations of quality being impossible to define. We all know what it is, just not how to explain it without being subjective.

It was a great day although very very very cold! Fortunately our room had a heater and for a change I didnt have to worry about being chilly.

Money spent: food 1.09 euros, bus to Bled 6.30, hire boat 3, coke and twix 1, cappo and wine 2.10, 12 euros accom.

Thurs 15th Lake Bohinj

The thermal springs in its north-eastern part are led into three swimming pools - Grand Hotel Toplice, Hotel Park and Hotel Golf. The picture-like image of Lake Bled is highlighted by the island in the western part of the lake.

This time we headed out with another kiwi guy who checked into our dorm - Leon - and a new aussie guy called Connor who was on the same bus as us to Lake Bohinj. In true carla fashion I had optimistically hoped to climb a snow covered mountain 'Triglav' which at 2864 metres is Slovenias highest point in the one day. Ha! It was covered in snow and after asking at tourist information realised it took 7 hours just to get their yet alone the return hike! - so I quickly moved on from that idea! Instead we walked around the north shore of the lake, stopping on numerous occasions to enjoy the view and take pics. It really was stunning, much more natural and less touristy than Bled - and bigger in fact. It was 12 kilometres in lenght. One funny moment was me pottering about on some stepping stones I lost my balance on an unstable one andwcompletely submerged my feet in the water and half of the lower part of my right leg. At least it was a sunny day but boy oh boy it wasnt very comfortable having icy cold feet as the air temperature was not conducive to clothes actually drying out!!

We walked around the lake and to a nearby waterfall and on the way home the fun started. We had walked a lot longer than we realised and were getting pretty knackered and achy feet. We wandered upon this beefer of a truck and in broken english and a lot of hand signals we basically managed to hitch a ride with him, with 3 of us squashed behind the front seats on what I imagined constituted his bed, and the other two guys sharing the passenger seat in the front. Cricked neck aside, it was a rather funny experience. But it didnt end there. He dropped us off in some weird place where we would have had to wait for an hour for the next bus so I proposed we split and hitch our way home. Ok, so hitching is not quite so easy as it seems. Me and Ro, thinking we' be at an advantage being girls - did manage to get one lift fairly soon with a couple of friendly van drivers who barely spoke english but reponded to our pleading faces. But unfortunately they wernt going very far and so we found ourselves in the less than ideal situation of trying to hitch another lift in the flailing light. Gutted and admitting defeat we finally caught the same bus that we would have originally waited and hour for, and even more gutting was the face that the lads managed to get a ride all the way back! So much for the advantage of being female!!!

In the evening we went out to eat at another Mexican - Ro is seriously obsessed! - and I shared a fab pizza with Connor the aussie guy and had a couple of glasses of red wine - well its just so damn cheap here even in a restaurant!

Its been a great couple of days here but Slovenia is definately worth a longer stay and I would love to explore the mountains more next time I'm here...but looking forward to Vienna and seeing and staying with my friend Anne from India...

Money spent: Cappo 1.10, bus 3.70, Park 2 euros, return bus 2.70, dinner 6 euros, tuna sarnie and mars bar 2,18 euros, accom 12 euros. TOTAL 29.68

Ljubijana and Postojna Caves, Slovenia 11th - 13th Oct

With a dazzling hilltop castle as her crown and the emerald-green Ljubljanica River at her feet, Ljubljana is a princess in size (petite). But her pint size conceals a wealth of culture, sights, activities and good old-fashioned fun that would be the envy of a city twice her extent. And best of all, everything is within such easy reach – a mere stroll or cycle away. he princess, whose name almost means ‘beloved’ (ljubljena) in Slovene, is also a working girl. As the country’s political, economic and cultural capital, this is where virtually everything of national importance begins, ends or is taking place. Of course that might not be immediately apparent in spring and summer, when café tables spill into the narrow streets of the Old Town and street musicians and actors entertain passers-by in Prešernov trg and on the little bridges spanning the Ljubljanica River. - Lonely planet.

Accomodation: Alibi hostel, 13 euros per night shared dorm (winter prices)

Day 1; Sun 11th Rijeka - Ljubijana

OK so we got up and had another lovely little breakfast at 8am still on the island of Rab in Croatia, then hopped straight on a ferry to be on the mainland at 9am and in Rijeka by 11. We had a couple of hours to kill for the train (hadnt had internet for several days so ws unable to actually find out the train times) but we walked the short distance to town and wandered around and took some pics. Its a nice place but Im keen to leave Croatia and get on with our travels.

So, we ended up having our little own compartment and once again I am struck at how easy and classy it is travelling in Europe as opposed to India! It hardly feels like travelling, its too clean ha ha.

The journey itself was very pleasant as we passed through several rolling hills, and my impression of the country so far is a positive one, and it actually is reminiscent of Austria, in the cleanliness and the mountains and the style of the houses. Ro wasnt so impressed, but I was trying to take photos the whole time!

We found our hostel fairly easily from the train station. But we were sooo hungrz we couldt resist a mcdonalds first, my last one being in Rajastan (India) with Anne. Again, so easy to get info, I walked into the information and there were nice little printed timetables to all the popular destinations with the prices. It was so hard to find these things in India!

Once at the hostel we soon turned around and wandered around the city. I have to say, and Ive been to a fair few european cities namely from when I travelled europe for 6 or 7 weeks when I was 20, this place is one of my favourites for its character and charm. The river really contributes to this atmosphere, and many of the bars and cafes which seem to be a large part of Slovenian culture line it either side, with buildings of impressive architecture, modern art, weeping willows creating reflections in the water, and speckled lights creating a different kind of atmosphere as the sun went down.

There were some buskers in the town square playing some instruments I can barely descibe yet alone remember the name of! They were shaped like a flying saucer and played like bongos but created a gentle melodic sound, kind of meditative. While hanging out in the main square I just enjoyed taking photos of the surroundings and appreciating the sunset that looked as though there was a fire raging beyond the buildings.

Our hostel isnt that great - one internet everyone lines up to use and a fairly impersonal feel with as yet some unfriendly people! But well see.

Money spent: 40 (ferry) 94 Kuna (train) 4 euros mcdonalds, 13 euros dorm.

Day 2. Monday 12th Oct - Ljubijana

Sob sob its peeing it down here! But had a good nights sleep hurray! Woke up lateish, showered and chilled and ended up heading out to brunch with a couple of friendly French guys we got chatting to at the hostel as well as a Canadian guy in our dorm. La Petite Cafe / very apt! was one of the eating places recommended by our hostel which was not situated along the river but nonetheless evidently popular. I had am omlette and bread which I was very suprisedto find actually filled me up but true to form I was not content with my own meal but had to finish the hobbits too! David kindly paid and we headed out for some girly shoppping as it was getting rather nippy and Rozie did not have a coat! David soon got bored and headed back. To be honest the weather made the day a bit of an odd one, the plan was to sight see and visit the castle but I just couldnt really be bothered to do a lot so after popping into a couple of churches I also headed back to the hostel and caught up with my blog while Ro sorted out washing and such like. Ouch she paid 10 euros hard core traveller stroke hand washer she aint ha ha. Before they left David showed me his illustrations on his laptop which I thought were pretty damn good and Im thinking it must be nice to be able to pursue your creative side while holding down a good job. We actually had an interesting conversation about how he is doing the job and money thing first and then will turn his time and attention to his art. Theres a part of me that wishes I had done the same thing because while I dont really mind living cheaply it would be nice not having to be careful with every single penny all the time just to be able to do things and even then on a tight budget. But I also like the bohemian lifestyle and am so blessed in so many ways and have much more than I actually need especially compared to many people in the world.

Before dinner me and Ro bought our train tickets to Vienna getting them half price due to three days in advance and I had an impulsive buy in a shop near the train station. I figured I may need another pair of trousers in this increasing cold especially as we go further north.

In the evening we went to a free concert Dobimo Se Na Magistratu I found out about at the town hall near the hostel. It featured Aljosa Vrscaj on guitar and a student quartet who are some of the few musicans I have met with any dress sense! They had colour coordinated black and red costumes blending the traditional with the contemporary and looked extremely sharp and classy. I really enjoyed the entire concert (Mozart and Bach) but was particularly blown away with the guitarist whose nimble fingers moved so fast I pondered how it was humanly possible. He actually played for a full 40 minutes without any sheet music. He did strike me as a slightly nervous fellow though and me and my sister nearly had a fit of the giggles as he began by sitting there for what seemed an age in anticipated silence, stroking the back of his neck and staring at the floor and then starting the whole process again just as we finally about to start when someone dared to interupt his mental preperation by sneaking in late!

Starving by the time it was finished, I caved into the little sisters culinary cravings and ate in a Mexican, for me spending more money on a meal than I have all year! To be fair, it was an awesome restaraunt and not many places would make a feature of bold colours. The whole atmosphere was wicked and Icould see why it was recommended to me.

Money spent: 2 euros breakfast, 13 accom, 69 coke and 60 mars bar, clothes 33.84 thez gave me 10% discount ha ha, 29 euros train to Vienna. 10.80 splash out on food at yummy Mexican!

Day 3: Tues 13th - Castle and Postojna caves.

Oh boy Ro slept talked again in the night! It was a full dorm and with people coming in late and a girl getting up real early I cant say I had the best nights sleep! But got up and was ready by 8.10 so went on the internet until I left for the castle which we hadnt gone to yesterday due to the rain.

Unbelievable I walked all the way up the hill to the castle to find it wasnt open at 9 like the otherwise helpful and friendly receptionist at my hostel told me! and so rather than waiting an hour in the freezing cold, I walked all the way back down the hill, had a cappo, wandered to the market and had a pastry, and then huffed and puffed back up the hill again! To be honest I ws too tired to take much in of the 20 minute multi media presentation thing, with high tech 3D goggles baby and earphones, but the view from the top of the tower was fab. I got chatting to a guy who took photos and wrote for aviation magasines. Anyway there wasnt much else to see which was a tad dissapointing so headed back to the hostel to meet Ro who had decided on a lie in instead of my cultural experience!

So...Postojna caves....which we got a train to for 4.88 euros and then a free shuttle (alas only the one way due to low season) were awesome, impressive, huge, magnificent..and expensive! Fortunately we got the student discounted price of 16 euros (normally 20 ouch!!!) Heres the spiel...

The Postojna Cave system is the largest known cave system in Slovenia. There are longer caves in the world, but a visit to a cave such as Postojna deserves full attention due to the diversity of shapes, expansive cave areas, stalactite and stalagmite formations and water characteristics. What is especially noteworthy is that most of these various shapes and formations can be seen by every visitor, meaning tourists and not just cavers with special caving equipment. Well kept paths for tourists comprise the greater part of Postojna Cave, making it a "horizontal" cave. Thus a visit to the cave does not present any difficulties for most visitors.

I have to say it was awesome....it was large and impressive, with endless stalagtites and stalagtites but heres my rant...I want to be alone with my imagination in these vast caves not herded along with a bunch of Japanese tourists and wailing kids and gossipy women, along cemeted non-slip floors with handrails forming a bulldozed pathway through otherwise natural ragged and authentic phenomenum. Im definately of the natural explorer mentality....!!! We held back a bit at the back of the group to appreciate it in a bit more peace! We also rode along on a train, and beware holding expensive cameras as I had a few near misses where I was close to having my head wacked against a rock or saying a permament bye bye to my fairly recent and decent sony!

Back in Ljubijana, we ate in the extremely pleasant and typical Slovenian restaraunt Sokol near the town hall. As I had already spent a copious amount of money today, aughh! - I shared a slovenian national dish with our new canadian friend Graham, and then the three of us got a desert together yum yum. The main course was a black bendy Kravavica sausage with turnips and very bitty with what I dont want to think what! The local speciality desert gibanica sokol with poppy seeds, walnut, cottage cheese, and apples was also something I would not normally eat but loved the walnuts baby! Rosanna is a very bad influence on me, I am spending much more money on food than normal but I have to say it beats bread and cheese ha ha. The interior reminded me a little of Munich me and Ro went on years ago. Our waiter was very sweet and wore the authentic dress which added to the music and decor made it a very worthwhile visit. Oh dear Im enjoying eating out a little too much...!

Money spent, 1.20 cappo, 1.05 pastry from market, 3.50 castle tower, 13 euros accom, 3.80 sandwich, 1.40 cappo, 16 euros student admission to caves (yes!) meal 4.25 euros plus 1.05 wine plus 1.30 shared desert.

Rab island - Fri 9th and Sat 10th.

Rab Island: Rab is one of the island of the Kvarner Bay archipelago in the north of the Croatian Adriatic Sea. In addition to the ancient town of the same name, there are seven other idyllic places scattered over the island: Barbat, Banjol, Palit, Kampor, Mundanije, Supetarska Draga and Lopar. There are about 9 thousands inhabitants on Island Rab mostly by agriculture, fishing, shipbuilding and tourism. Rab has tradition of organised tourism for more than 112 years. - from find croatia.com

Accomodation: Captains club. Payed 90 kunas each accom including breakfast (subsidised in part by Paul as we were additional people and got it cheaper.)

Left at 8am from our accomodation near the lakes, it took two hours to the ferry crossing and we got straight on which then only took 15 minutes. The scenery again was incredible, and the thing that strikes me about Croatia is how beautiful and diverse the landscape is in only a short distance or space of time. We drove through mountains and lush foliage to a lovely coastal drive with some of the most amazing views I have ever seen. Paul said it was like New Zealand.

Once on Rab, we sat and ate a picnic breakfast stroke lunch again to a fab view. We checked into Pauls accomodation which was in Banjol overlooking a harbour near Rab town, for a good price because we were in effect additional people. We had a quick turn around as it was sunny and went in search of a beach. At first we just stopped by a strip of pebbles, it was quite isolated and we had a bathe and chucked a ball around. Then we went on to Lovran beach which in rough guide is one of the 6 best beaches in Croatia. Hurray! Sand at last! It was lovely, with different kinds of mountains either side and forming a backdrop to a large beach area. There were not many people there and Paul waded out almost as far as a little island because it slopes very gradually and gently.

In the evening we went to Rab town. Being out of season it was a bit ghost-like and took forever to find somewhere to eat! - but had a yummy mushroom pizza which the next day gave me a bad tummy ha ha.

Money spent: 90 accom, 59 ferry (me n Ro paid for Paul too.) pizza and red wine 48 kuna?

Sat 10th

What a gorgeous breakfast on the veranda overlooking the harbour and enough coffee to more than get me through the day! I was up aout 8.40 and after a leisurelz breakfast we wandered into Rab town which reminded me a little bit of Rovinj. There wasnt a great deal to comment on apart from the monastary where me and my sis bought matching bracelets kinda stroke rosaries from a nun!

The weather wasnt great but we headed to the fab beach we were at yesterdaz, unfortunately it decided to blow a thunderstorm and so we ran to the car and drove back to our hotel..spent some time kipping in bed as was feeling rough from the mushroom pizza or the wine the night before?!!

Went for a little stroll along the harbour before having an absolutely gorgeous croatian dish, the name of which I have yet to identify but it was huge and very yummy! We also - and wait for it I dont do this verz often - watched football! Yes! Carla Thraves watched a football match and it was actually OK - England versus Ukraine but we lost...is that an omen?! The grand total of 3 locals were rooting for England so it was all a good atmosphere of sorts...!

More red wine and English movie (bridget Jones 2 yes!!) back at the hotel.

Money spent:90 Kuna accomodation, 15 Kuna shared wine, 12 Kuna bracelet, 40 Kuna dinner yum yum.

Weds 7th, Thurs 8th National Parks - Plitvice lakes and Paklenica gorge

Staying for 2 nights near the Plivice lakes, we explored two very different national parks...

Accomodation: Some random place in Korenica, only a short drive from the lakes. We pazed 25 euros per room per night (Paul payed 20 for a single.)

The Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia's most popular tourist attraction, was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1979. Located roughly halfway between capital city Zagreb and Zadar on the coast, the lakes are definitely a must-see.

The beauty of the National Park lies in its sixteen lakes, inter-connected by a series of waterfalls, and set in deep woodland populated by deer, bears, wolves, boars and rare bird species. The National Park covers a total area of 300 square kilometres, whilst the lakes join together over a distance of eight kilometres. There's also quite an altitude difference - the highest point is at 1,280m, the lowest at 380m - although the total height difference between the lakes themselves is only 135m. (Veliki Slap, the largest waterfall, is 70m tall.) - Visit Croatia.

We left Opatija at 8.35 and with a couple of stops for shopping and lunch with a gorgeous panoramic view, we arrived at Pauls pre-booked accomodation that we could also stay at for 25 euros between the two of us (shared bathroom.)The guest house was like a log cabin effect, with a sort of common room we could use with a TV and fridge but not a kitchen as such so we had to hijack the family kitchen downstairs to make our pizzas the first night and pasta the second. This make us feel a little uncomfortable, like we were intruding, but ultimately on hostel bookers it did cite kitchen under facilities. It also said there was internet but there wasnt boo hoo.

We drove straight to the lakes, parking at the secondary entrance and arriving before 2pm. By walking and taking a couple of buses and one boat, we literally blitzed in 3 hours what would otherwise have taken all day. It cost 15 quid to get in so we didnt want to have to retturn unnecessarily.

I have to say, and I have been to many amazing places in my life not to mention 6 months of travelling in Asia this year already, but this was one of the most stunning places I have ever been. The colours of the foliage and rock were vivid, the water crystal clear, and the mood like something out of a fairy tale. It was a beautiful sunny day, which also makes a lot of difference, and was just awesome. I found the lower lakes to be more scenic than the higher ones. We left feeling reallz pleased we had decided to join Paul here as something magnificent Croatia had to offer that we would have otherwise missed.

In the evening we made lasagna and drank red wine watching some bad English movie! Chatting with Paul, we decided to go to Rab island with him for 2 days and then break from him before he went to krk island, so we could move on on our travels. I suggested the Paklenica national park as a daz trip as we had covered the lakes in one daz.

Money spent: 18 Kuna parking, 8 kuna cappuccino, 110 kuna entrance. Shopping 35.50 kuna shared food. More shopping and deodrant 60.40 kuna. Bread and notepad 9.26 kuna. Accom 12.5 euros.

Thursday 8th - Paklenica national park

Paklenica National Park is one of Croatia's most diverse national parks especially if you're interested in hiking or rock climbing. Located in the southeastern part of the Velebit mountain range which runs along the central Dalmatian coast, Paklenica National Park covers 102 sq. km and includes one of the largest forests in the Mediterranean. The two outstanding canyons of Paklenica Park, Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica, show splendid karstic formations.
Paklenica park offers the unique pleasure of combining hiking and swimming the same day. Starigrad is the main jumping off point for exploring the park and it happens to lie right on the Adriatic. - from Croatia traveller.

We left at 9.25 for the 1 and a quarter hour drive to Paklenica national park on the central Croatian coastline.

First we went on a little walk along the periphery of the park thinking we could sneak in without paying ha ha. But we did end up parting with the dosh, after all we had come all this waz to see the park and there was always the danger we would get shot ha ha so we drove in and up and did a short walk to a rather specatular gorge which was rock climbers heaven. Having done a spot of rock climbing myself, I would have liked to have been there with all the kit, but it wasnt to be and I satisfied myself with watching other people instead! It was one of those places I could have happily spent the whole day, as there were several proper treks to while away the hours, but it wasnt to be as I was somewhat outnumbered bz Rozie and Paul who only wanted to go and lie on yet another beach! - so satisfied myself with a short 1 hour speed walk before reluctantly rushing back to meet the others who I left admiring the view of the gorge.

We then drove to a beach 2.15ish and chilled in the sunshine. Unfortunately I hadnt come prepared so had to swim in my combats and black bra and then cover myself in a sarong! We had a nice beer while relaxing over a book in the harbour. and then drove back through fairly stunning scenery to arrive bck at the hostel late. We drove back a different way which added on about 45 minutes, which was a bit much for Paul by the end as it was pitch black. But while it was still light it was awesome, we saw a gorgeous sunset and the views followed us as we navigated up the mountains before heading inland and back to Plitvice.

We got back late, I grabbed a quick shower and we made pasta in the downstairs kitchen before watching more dodgz english movies!

Money spent: 7.5 Kuna toll, 60 entrance (me and Ro paid for Paul) beer 12 kuna. Accom 12.5 euros