Thursday 26th - Chang Rai and crossing into Laos.
Woke up in Chang Rai (north Thailand towards Laos border) at 8.50am and was up, showered and out by 9.15. It was the lumpiest bed I had stayed on in Thailand so far but still slept well! The shower room was huge and hot water which was nice. Went to the bus station to find out times for my onward travel was a bit dissapointed the last bus was at 4.30 but as the day progressed I saw this as a good rather than bad thing.
I went to the hill tribe exhibition (costing 50 baht including free cuppa coffee - nice!) which had a 20 minute video in English on the various hill tribes, aparantly the Paduang long necked village 'Karen' which me and Max went to on our motorbikes was set up by a buisnessman soley for tourism purposes. Its a contraversial thing - the women say they are better off than in Burma, all they have to do is sit around an pose for photographs and have a better quality of life, but according to the hill tribe museum it is still not ethical because they are not being paid a fair rate for what they do. You cant really win either way.
I am now in a big supercentre where I am looking for a dry bag. To no avail. Had kentucky fried chicken - sometimes you just get a craving for the greasy western food rather than the fried Thai food?! Am planning to leave on the 3.30 bus in case I get through the border today. I have no books on Laos or Vietnam so gonna be depending on meeting others who know what they are doing!
Well its 6.30 and I am finally in my guest house in Laos! Got the 2.30 bus in the end (took 2 1/2 hours) and am glad as crossed the border today. It was a bit precarious on the narrow boat over the river from Thailand to laos. Have realised recently I'm not exactly the most steady on my feet so basically add that to a big backpack and side bag with flip flops and a narrow boat and yep it was nearly man (or women) overboard! It's not cheap here but I think thats because its a port and people are basically stuck here and cant do much about it. Also food and such like is supposedly imported from Thailand. I am paying either 35,000 kip or 140 baht for my room (very basic just a double bed, shared shower supposedly warm but not really!) I havn't done my homework which is very unlike me but Ive been so basically have no idea what's cheaper or exchange rates or anything. Wish Id bought a book on this part of Asia. I'd imagine its 2.80 if baht or less if kip? its 1.15 dollar to the kip so thats I dont bloody know. Auuughhh!
Ok so the ATM was gonna charge me 20,000 kip for the privaledge of drawing out money (thats nearly 2 quid!!!!) so sod that I'll use my Thai baht and US dollars for now. They seem to accept all three here.
I found a place to eat paying with baht and had another western dish - spag bolognese for like 120 baht. Kept a belgiun guy company who had to hang out in this dead end place for 3 days while his friends did the gibbon experience (living and journeying in treetops for 2 days) because he's got a broken foot poor thing. As with my seemingly hopeless situation in Sukkothia where I had to wait for ages in a bus station, I have miraculously got wireless here. Dont ask me how its not the sort of place its available youd understand if you were here. No supermarket, just load of shanty shops and budget accomodation. But hey Im not complaining. Its not as cold as Pai here but still a chill in the air at night.
Still feeling a bit low. Also got message from Lauren they are already in Vang Vienne and staying there another 2 nights as she messaged me yesterday. So basically they are way ahead then going right down south so not sure whats gonna happen about seeing them in Laos. I'll just have to try to make the decision to enjoy whatever comes along and make the effort to hook up with people. Hadnt planned on going south but is supposed to be beautiful. May look into flight back from Vietnam and do my trip the other way round. If you know what I mean ie down laos up through Vietnam. At the moment I just want beaches so may cut short cambodia to enjoy more of the beach life. Decisions decisions!
Money spent: Strawberries 20 baht, hill tribe museum 50 baht, dress 160 baht, food (KFC) 105 baht, bus to Chang Kong 65 baht, shared taxi 15 baht, boat to Laos 40 baht, visa 36 USD accomodation 140 baht. Total: help, er... 1895 baht (37.90) But that included an expensive visa which I wasnt gonna include in everday budget so more like 595 / 12 quid
Best thing: Hill tribe museum in Chang Rai, and finding wireless in this dead end place in Laos!
Worst thing: Not having met anyone exciting on bus or crossing as hoped. Oh well tomorrows another day...
Thursday, 26 February 2009
Wednesday 25th - travelling to Chang Rai
Wednesday 25th - travelling to Chang Rai
I woke up early this morning to Max's alarm (damn it!) - don't think it was intentional though! I ended up staying in his hut as my bag was there already and it worked out cheaper for us and less hassle after a long and tiring day. It did occur to me to get up and try to get the 8 o clock bus to the border but I had no idea where it was going from or whether there were seats and also had to return the motorbike. I couldn't get back to sleep but just lay in to try and get some energy back. Ended up hanging out in Pai until 2pm when we got on the ordinary bus to Chang Mai. It was quite squashed and Max in his blunt way said couldn't I sit somewhere else?! Did eventually move as it seemed he was chatting up a Brazilian girl in front of us and I felt I was an unwelcome intruder! Very tired and for a while was feeling quite low wondering if I had done the right thing coming to Chang Mai as if I had been more organised I could have been in Laos sooner and I dont know where my friends are. I wondered if I had altered my plans because of Max or whether I would have gone anyway. The truth is, I have places I like to go but do genuinely like company too so it does have a bearing on the choices I make but there is a fine line between that and let it affect your own plans too much when you have other things on the radar like time! So yes maybe I was feeling a little homesick or friendsick shall I say.
I decided I was going to pull myself together so upon arriving in Chang Rai me and Max split as we had different ideas about where we wanted to stay and I thought it was about time I went off by myself again, I get a bit crotchety if I don't get my own space I love company but I also love being by myself. After all I wanted to check out the night bazaar which is never easy with a guy and also look into things for tomorrow as I am planning on only having one day so will be up early making the most of it.
I knew I would like Chang Rai when I got here. I eventually found a place for 170 baht for the room (Easy Room)- more than I had hoped but I didn't want to waste too much time looking when I could be window or stall shopping! The stalls are amazing and I think there must be some women from the hill tribes that come to sell their wares - eiither that or some locals playing dressing up! If I was here for longer would go on a proper treck but dont think thats gonna be feasible.
I forgot to put my memory card back in my camera after downloading to my netbook on the bus, but basically I'll always remember it here its nicer than Chang Mai - more character but I like smaller cozier places anyway thats just me. There were a couple of stages dotted around near food halls (loads of little stands of different very cheap Thai food) with shows or music and lots and lots of Thais - again didnt see many westerners. And hurray! - the temperature is really nice - not sticky like Bankok but not cold like Pae. At last I won't be cold again! Good job too as Lai lai gave my coat away thinking I had left - which I had, but only temporarily on my motorbike road trip.
I chatted to a couple of londoners in one of the bars down one of the main streets, other than that I just wandered around taking it in. I found a lovely food market where I bought Thai noodles with cashew nuts for 35 baht, I was surrounded by Thais. There was live music on a couple of stages (one really badly lip synching!) and such like but generally the night market has a lovely vibe about it. If I was here for more than 1 night I would go out but I'm so tired and want to have a good full day tomorrow so gonna get my head down. Finally bought a watch with alarm which should help matters. And a little ring. I can't help myself! Sod the budget! Glad I came to Chang Rai. Hope tomorrow works out OK and crossing the border.
Money spent: Accomodation 75 baht, Breakfast 80 baht, coke 15 baht, bus to Chang Mai 70 baht, sandwich train station 15 baht, air con bus to Chang Rai 130 baht. Accomodation (easy house) 170 baht, watch 150 baht, food 35 baht, strawberries 30 baht, drink 15 baht, water 13 baht, body wash and shampoo 89 baht, ring 40 baht. TOTAL: 827 / 18.54 pounds.
Best thing: Night market
Worst thing: Not getting my butt in order. Should have been more organised.
I woke up early this morning to Max's alarm (damn it!) - don't think it was intentional though! I ended up staying in his hut as my bag was there already and it worked out cheaper for us and less hassle after a long and tiring day. It did occur to me to get up and try to get the 8 o clock bus to the border but I had no idea where it was going from or whether there were seats and also had to return the motorbike. I couldn't get back to sleep but just lay in to try and get some energy back. Ended up hanging out in Pai until 2pm when we got on the ordinary bus to Chang Mai. It was quite squashed and Max in his blunt way said couldn't I sit somewhere else?! Did eventually move as it seemed he was chatting up a Brazilian girl in front of us and I felt I was an unwelcome intruder! Very tired and for a while was feeling quite low wondering if I had done the right thing coming to Chang Mai as if I had been more organised I could have been in Laos sooner and I dont know where my friends are. I wondered if I had altered my plans because of Max or whether I would have gone anyway. The truth is, I have places I like to go but do genuinely like company too so it does have a bearing on the choices I make but there is a fine line between that and let it affect your own plans too much when you have other things on the radar like time! So yes maybe I was feeling a little homesick or friendsick shall I say.
I decided I was going to pull myself together so upon arriving in Chang Rai me and Max split as we had different ideas about where we wanted to stay and I thought it was about time I went off by myself again, I get a bit crotchety if I don't get my own space I love company but I also love being by myself. After all I wanted to check out the night bazaar which is never easy with a guy and also look into things for tomorrow as I am planning on only having one day so will be up early making the most of it.
I knew I would like Chang Rai when I got here. I eventually found a place for 170 baht for the room (Easy Room)- more than I had hoped but I didn't want to waste too much time looking when I could be window or stall shopping! The stalls are amazing and I think there must be some women from the hill tribes that come to sell their wares - eiither that or some locals playing dressing up! If I was here for longer would go on a proper treck but dont think thats gonna be feasible.
I forgot to put my memory card back in my camera after downloading to my netbook on the bus, but basically I'll always remember it here its nicer than Chang Mai - more character but I like smaller cozier places anyway thats just me. There were a couple of stages dotted around near food halls (loads of little stands of different very cheap Thai food) with shows or music and lots and lots of Thais - again didnt see many westerners. And hurray! - the temperature is really nice - not sticky like Bankok but not cold like Pae. At last I won't be cold again! Good job too as Lai lai gave my coat away thinking I had left - which I had, but only temporarily on my motorbike road trip.
I chatted to a couple of londoners in one of the bars down one of the main streets, other than that I just wandered around taking it in. I found a lovely food market where I bought Thai noodles with cashew nuts for 35 baht, I was surrounded by Thais. There was live music on a couple of stages (one really badly lip synching!) and such like but generally the night market has a lovely vibe about it. If I was here for more than 1 night I would go out but I'm so tired and want to have a good full day tomorrow so gonna get my head down. Finally bought a watch with alarm which should help matters. And a little ring. I can't help myself! Sod the budget! Glad I came to Chang Rai. Hope tomorrow works out OK and crossing the border.
Money spent: Accomodation 75 baht, Breakfast 80 baht, coke 15 baht, bus to Chang Mai 70 baht, sandwich train station 15 baht, air con bus to Chang Rai 130 baht. Accomodation (easy house) 170 baht, watch 150 baht, food 35 baht, strawberries 30 baht, drink 15 baht, water 13 baht, body wash and shampoo 89 baht, ring 40 baht. TOTAL: 827 / 18.54 pounds.
Best thing: Night market
Worst thing: Not getting my butt in order. Should have been more organised.
Tuesday 24th Feb - Pai road trip day 2 (Long neck hill tribe)
Tuesday 24th Feb - Road trip day 2 (Long neck hill tribe)
Today we woke up to the sound of the annoying announcements (what is it with Thai people dont they ever want a lie in?!). I slept really well until I got cold then was tossing and turning. The bed was huge though (one of the great things about Thailand huge beds come as standard) and also firm mattress which I like. It was a fair drive to the hill tribe village - Karen, long necks near Mae Hong Song west of Pia towards the Burmese border) and we didnt set off until after breakfast at 10.30. Couldnt really be bothered to get up and neither of us had a clock or alarm which didnt make life easy! It's weird here with food - basically if you order together, the food never arrives at the same time and they may even make another meal inbetween! I had pancakes with syrup which were delicious! Max is ovbiouslt bad influence on me I think I am now hooked on pancakes. The little town had a thriving market and I briefly took the opportunity to walk around while we fuelled up, once again the only westerner. I read in teh bar menu that only about 2 tourists come through every month which I find hard to believe in one way but I suppose most tourists would fly to Mae Hong Song or get the bus over the mountains or even bike it in one day so that's maybe why.
Once we had set off, (Max driving to begin with) after a while we passed a sign saying 'mud springs' so we took a 5 k detour so I could check out what I hoped to be a mud bath! Unfortunately it wasn't - so I had a mud face mask instead which was absolutely gorgeous and cost 60 baht. My skin feels so smoooooth!
Driving onto the village, despite a few guessed turns - road signs in Thailand are rather sparce or non-existent! - we arrived about 2pm later than planned. It was well worth the visit though - one lady truly had a very long giraffe like (although I think she would prefer the word swan-like) neck. We first saw only her face and elongated neck gentyl rocking and visible over the top of a wash screen - upon later inspection (slightly cautiously as one couldn't really tell if she was dressed or not) she was scrubbing her brass coils around her neck and calf muscles (which were very tight and looked very painful) - and I noticed with all the women they sort of had dry skin or scabs around this part of their legs. They were so tight I can't imagine any air getting to them. This lady was stunning however and since visiting this village other places I have visited use her as 'the face' of Paduang long necks - she certainly had the longest one there. Another 86 year old lady was very short but more than happy to have her photo taken and expressed an interest in seeing the pictures. We chatted to another kindly 24 year old lady, keen to practice her english who was also happy to have photos taken. There is mixed felings about visiting hill tribes here. One doesnt want to play voyeur but equally it is seen as a source of income for the villagers who apparantly originally came from Myanmar but are not recognised by the Thai government. However I also heard from Max that the 250 baht entrance fee was largely for the government who capitlised upon the potential market of long necks. The people we taked to all obviously wanted us to buy from their stalls, which I felt bad about but we had already paid the relatively expensive fee of a fiver to get in to the village and we were only there an hour. The dress is very colourful and they wear ribbons in their hair also. I was told one neck coil weighed 5 kilos and putting it on was quite uncomfortable, it sat awkwardly on the collar bone and made turning your head difficult. Obviously it doesnt stretch the neck, rather it discourages the collar bones to grow propery, supressing it with the weight of the coils. They claimed to never take these coils off even to sleep but I have heard otherwise. Wandering around, we for a while took over a class of village children who actually spoke quite good english. I taught them a hand clapping game and we were exchanging questions and banter. I also bought a braclet off a women with dangly ear lobes - she let me touch them it was very bizarre!! I noticed bible versus in one of the classrooms and was quite suprised - I later learned that they converted to christianity through the American Baptist Mission. The down side of it is that mch of their traditional songs have been forgotten and lost being replaced by hymns.
We left again at 3, eager to get back before it got dark partly for safety but also the annoying flies and insects plaguing the roads. Yes I was hungry but I draw the line a little black things. We kept going fairly consistently only stopping to switch drivers or get petrol (whole trip there and back cost 200 baht which was about 6/7 hours worth of driving - we must have used a lot of fuel on the copious uphills and also using the breaks a lot on the many bends.
By this point I was getting a bit tired and grumpy and had a bit of a headache and just wanted to get home! The novelty had kinda worn off and it was intense driving safely. We got back about 6.15 - so 3 hours 15 with gas breaks not bad then we grabbed a shower and went out to eat, sorted out the money we owed each other and grabbed some food. I was in a pretty foul mood by this point when Im that tired I dont have patience with anything or anyone. I ate the first fish since my trip here, and the fish itself was fine but the garlic it came with were literally cloves you munched whole and the sauce was really hot too so I really skipped the veg and had only fish and rice! You win some, you lose some!
Stayed at Max's we didnt got out for drinks just chilled in the hut writing blogs etc and him cleaning his eyebrow ring...!
Money spent: Breakfast and accomodation 135 baht, water 6 baht, water 12 baht, bag 139 baht, accomodation 75 baht, food 185 baht, bike 50 baht, hill tribe 250 baht, bracelet 100 baht, mud mask 60 baht. evening meal 180 baht. TOTAL: 1192 baht / 23.84 pounds.
Best thing: Long necks
Worst thing: Hours of driving, sore bum, tired and grumpy by end of day!
Today we woke up to the sound of the annoying announcements (what is it with Thai people dont they ever want a lie in?!). I slept really well until I got cold then was tossing and turning. The bed was huge though (one of the great things about Thailand huge beds come as standard) and also firm mattress which I like. It was a fair drive to the hill tribe village - Karen, long necks near Mae Hong Song west of Pia towards the Burmese border) and we didnt set off until after breakfast at 10.30. Couldnt really be bothered to get up and neither of us had a clock or alarm which didnt make life easy! It's weird here with food - basically if you order together, the food never arrives at the same time and they may even make another meal inbetween! I had pancakes with syrup which were delicious! Max is ovbiouslt bad influence on me I think I am now hooked on pancakes. The little town had a thriving market and I briefly took the opportunity to walk around while we fuelled up, once again the only westerner. I read in teh bar menu that only about 2 tourists come through every month which I find hard to believe in one way but I suppose most tourists would fly to Mae Hong Song or get the bus over the mountains or even bike it in one day so that's maybe why.
Once we had set off, (Max driving to begin with) after a while we passed a sign saying 'mud springs' so we took a 5 k detour so I could check out what I hoped to be a mud bath! Unfortunately it wasn't - so I had a mud face mask instead which was absolutely gorgeous and cost 60 baht. My skin feels so smoooooth!
Driving onto the village, despite a few guessed turns - road signs in Thailand are rather sparce or non-existent! - we arrived about 2pm later than planned. It was well worth the visit though - one lady truly had a very long giraffe like (although I think she would prefer the word swan-like) neck. We first saw only her face and elongated neck gentyl rocking and visible over the top of a wash screen - upon later inspection (slightly cautiously as one couldn't really tell if she was dressed or not) she was scrubbing her brass coils around her neck and calf muscles (which were very tight and looked very painful) - and I noticed with all the women they sort of had dry skin or scabs around this part of their legs. They were so tight I can't imagine any air getting to them. This lady was stunning however and since visiting this village other places I have visited use her as 'the face' of Paduang long necks - she certainly had the longest one there. Another 86 year old lady was very short but more than happy to have her photo taken and expressed an interest in seeing the pictures. We chatted to another kindly 24 year old lady, keen to practice her english who was also happy to have photos taken. There is mixed felings about visiting hill tribes here. One doesnt want to play voyeur but equally it is seen as a source of income for the villagers who apparantly originally came from Myanmar but are not recognised by the Thai government. However I also heard from Max that the 250 baht entrance fee was largely for the government who capitlised upon the potential market of long necks. The people we taked to all obviously wanted us to buy from their stalls, which I felt bad about but we had already paid the relatively expensive fee of a fiver to get in to the village and we were only there an hour. The dress is very colourful and they wear ribbons in their hair also. I was told one neck coil weighed 5 kilos and putting it on was quite uncomfortable, it sat awkwardly on the collar bone and made turning your head difficult. Obviously it doesnt stretch the neck, rather it discourages the collar bones to grow propery, supressing it with the weight of the coils. They claimed to never take these coils off even to sleep but I have heard otherwise. Wandering around, we for a while took over a class of village children who actually spoke quite good english. I taught them a hand clapping game and we were exchanging questions and banter. I also bought a braclet off a women with dangly ear lobes - she let me touch them it was very bizarre!! I noticed bible versus in one of the classrooms and was quite suprised - I later learned that they converted to christianity through the American Baptist Mission. The down side of it is that mch of their traditional songs have been forgotten and lost being replaced by hymns.
We left again at 3, eager to get back before it got dark partly for safety but also the annoying flies and insects plaguing the roads. Yes I was hungry but I draw the line a little black things. We kept going fairly consistently only stopping to switch drivers or get petrol (whole trip there and back cost 200 baht which was about 6/7 hours worth of driving - we must have used a lot of fuel on the copious uphills and also using the breaks a lot on the many bends.
By this point I was getting a bit tired and grumpy and had a bit of a headache and just wanted to get home! The novelty had kinda worn off and it was intense driving safely. We got back about 6.15 - so 3 hours 15 with gas breaks not bad then we grabbed a shower and went out to eat, sorted out the money we owed each other and grabbed some food. I was in a pretty foul mood by this point when Im that tired I dont have patience with anything or anyone. I ate the first fish since my trip here, and the fish itself was fine but the garlic it came with were literally cloves you munched whole and the sauce was really hot too so I really skipped the veg and had only fish and rice! You win some, you lose some!
Stayed at Max's we didnt got out for drinks just chilled in the hut writing blogs etc and him cleaning his eyebrow ring...!
Money spent: Breakfast and accomodation 135 baht, water 6 baht, water 12 baht, bag 139 baht, accomodation 75 baht, food 185 baht, bike 50 baht, hill tribe 250 baht, bracelet 100 baht, mud mask 60 baht. evening meal 180 baht. TOTAL: 1192 baht / 23.84 pounds.
Best thing: Long necks
Worst thing: Hours of driving, sore bum, tired and grumpy by end of day!
Monday 23rd - Pai Road trip day 1 (caves)
Monday 23rd - Pai Road trip day 1 (caves)
Today I got up and sorted myself out (had to check out as wont be here tonight) and motored up to the touristy type pool where I chilled (missing having a good book still) and then 1.30ish the guys turned up that I knew from Chamg Mai. Theyre little crowd have dissipitated somewhat but all are en route or already in Laos. The America bar girls also arrived - they remind me of a some double act as they are best friends of many years but act like twins - they laugh the same, they talk the same, they gesture the same, they dress the same. They also have an innocence about them even though half the guys in Pai probably fancy them! It would have been a laugh staying at the pool but me and Max left for our road trip as planned about 3pm, well 3.30 by the time we had put in fuel etc. I managed to put my bag in his hut for the night which was cool as he had been there a week they let him use it for free. We headed off on the bikes, with helmets this time! I had heard horror stories about people getting into accidents and the rest of the gang thought we were nuts but we were both of the same mind - be slow, be safe. There were quite a few dangerous curves in the road but we were fine. We got to the caves just after 5pm and saw caves 2 and 3 with our guide and a lantern. It was pretty cool seeing the columns and rocks forming animals shapes like monkeys and crocodiles (I'm sure there is some sophisticated name for this and if I could be bothered Id look it up but I cant!). We also went on a bamboo raft between caves which was quite mysterious in the darkness, as you could hear the millions of bats squeaking way above and making out the occassional flutter of flights, but the cave was so high and so dark we couldnt see them. The best part was at the end when something like 30,000 swifts returned to the cave for the night and the bats went out. It was amazing, we were there for about 30-45 mins and there was just a steady path of movement but we had to leave by the time it was all over. We had intended to drive all the way to Mae Hong Song today, but consdiering the roads we decided it was too risky (no such thing as road lamps here!) so we stayed the night near the caves, managing to find a room for 200 baht. It reminded me of a caravan actually - simple but nice decor - and is so far the cheapest accomodation I have found in Thailand. Its so not so nice having to go out in the freezing cold to use a tepid shower though! We ate across the road in a really nice bar / restaurant, except for some English women (the only other westerner I saw the whole time I was there) whose son owned the bar (married a Thai who was very beautiful.) She was a bit mad and talked a lot about random things! We had quite an early night knowing we've now got a longer drive tomorrow but it has been a really nice day and evening and was good to just chill rather than the stress of driving.
Money spent: Bike 50 baht, petrol 70 baht, caves 125 baht, bread 20 baht, water 7 baht. Food 135 baht. TOTAL: 407 BAHT / 8.14
Best bit: Caves and meal in bar.
Worst bit: Having to leave my gorgeous hut over the river after only one night sob sob.
Sunday, 22 February 2009
Saturday 22nd Febuary - Pai day 1
Slept well and woke up 9am. This place is actually quite nice in the daylight, albeit basic and you have to go downstairs to find a loo! OK the shower room was foul glad I'm moving on from here! Checked out and relocated to the Family Bungalows, getting a hut for 150 baht again. Is so gorgeous crossing the bamboo bridge over the river and then walking on the path through the flowers to get to no.7. Its actually stunning, out of some fairytale. The hut is very small but it is ample. I have a double matttress on the floor with a mosquito net, and a fan and one electricity socket and indoor and patio light. I also have a quilt ;) I can see the mountains from my balcony. I've had such a cool day. I treated myself to an America breakfast - needed some western food! - for 120 baht. Think it was the first coffee Ive had sine I got here. I realised I have severely minimised my caffeine intake in Thailand, and increased my water consumpion no end so its all good even if I'm not going to a gym! I went to hire a moped for 100 baht for 24 hours and saw Nelson at 9/11. We rode up to Tree House to collet My Italian guy aka lailai (his name is Emmanuel but Thai people cant say it so everyone knows him as Lai lai I didnt think to ask how it was slept though! - and onto an out of the way river where we had a dip and I epilated my legs. I know I have no shame! The scenery in this place is stunning. I am taking pictures everywhere I go because it is so beautoful. There is a magic, feel good atmosphere about Pai. I was relieved that the sun was just as strong in the day as I have thus far been accustomed to (!) but it does severely drop at night.
We rode on to a wonderful waterful called Ma Poeng. It was quite busy, being Sunday with the Thais and children off school but was still great. I dont know what I enjoy more about this place but there is something very freeing about being able to hop on a moped and go wherever you want. I think I appreciate it more because I havn't had my own car for so many years. I am not wearing a helmet because its frankly a pain in the arse and nobody does anyway. (If you're reading this, don't tell my Mum!)
I have decided I love motorbikes. It is so much more laid back than England - sometimes you see 4 people on one! Wow how cheap would that be if the girls were here too! I could happily stay in this region and use it as a base to explore the whole of northern Thailand by bike. It is so tempting. It is so tempting just to stay here. To spend weeks in this wonderful place exploring every nook and cranny. Anyway...
Leaving the waterfall as the sun went down, I said bye to lai lai as he had to go and do his bonfire (!) and I went to watch the sunset at the Pai canyon. Again stunning. Panoramic views of mountains on both sides of the valley. I motored back towards Pai to do to this theatre thing I been handed a flyer about earlier in the day, - cyrogenics I think it was called but I've lost the flyer - which while it didn't make complete sense to me was very visually interesting and just good to be around theatre in whatever form. I also got chatting to a guy who runs meditation courses nearby. It has no spiritual emphasis and to be honest I m quite interested only of course I'm moving onto Vietnam and Laos and Cambodia...
Anyway, came back to the bungalows would normally shower right about now but its too cold!!
I chugged up to the Tree House (I found it OK!) just in time to get some leftover food at about 9.30pm. I wanted and needed a fire as it is so bloody cold! Its the only thing about this place that isnt so great! Also i imagine Id get bored here after a while because theres not much to do in the evenings apart from drink which I'm not really that in to. I imagine thats what its like for my brother Ed who does a lot of ski and summer seasons in holoday resorts. Me and Lai lai headed into town to Tik tak or something (really should pay more attention to names - normally I refer to a map while writing my blog to remember where I've just been!) - and who should I see but the guys from Chang Mai who I had hung out my very first night when I arrived late from Sukkothie. It was good to see a friendly face, and I also met some new people such as Max from New York. We both wanted to go to Mae Hong Song which is a long motorbike ride away (by my standards) at about 3 hours or so, however there are some good caves on the way which are worth seeing and which I intend to use to break up my journey. Max is 23, a writer, and we gossiped about the industry and had a silly time trying to switch accents. Neither of us was very good. In fact he distincly sounded like some french porn star. It was very very funny. I stayed up with him by the bonfire far too late really. I'll regret it tomorrow. But hey ho. We have decided to leave tomorrow at 3 o clock. Road trip! Yay! I hope we get there without complication, and of course, any accidents. We have decided to share a bike to help with costs and so we get breaks from driving. Will be nice to have the company I doubt I'd do it by myself because so long on a bike.
I went to sleep at like 4.30am. Why oh why.
Money spent: 150 baht last nights room (single room, shared bathroom, no towel.) 100 baht moped hire (24 hours,) 70 baht petrol, 120 american breakfast, 5 baht water, batteries 25 baht, 7 baht water, 20 baht coke. 150 baht tonights accomodation (hut, shared bathroom, no towel, gorgeous views!, 150 baht mojito, 50 baht happy house gin and lemonade. TOTAL 847 / 16.94
Best thing: Buzzing about and discovering places on mopeds
Worst thing: Having tummy cramps from last nights chicken and the time of the month (sorry, guys).
Slept well and woke up 9am. This place is actually quite nice in the daylight, albeit basic and you have to go downstairs to find a loo! OK the shower room was foul glad I'm moving on from here! Checked out and relocated to the Family Bungalows, getting a hut for 150 baht again. Is so gorgeous crossing the bamboo bridge over the river and then walking on the path through the flowers to get to no.7. Its actually stunning, out of some fairytale. The hut is very small but it is ample. I have a double matttress on the floor with a mosquito net, and a fan and one electricity socket and indoor and patio light. I also have a quilt ;) I can see the mountains from my balcony. I've had such a cool day. I treated myself to an America breakfast - needed some western food! - for 120 baht. Think it was the first coffee Ive had sine I got here. I realised I have severely minimised my caffeine intake in Thailand, and increased my water consumpion no end so its all good even if I'm not going to a gym! I went to hire a moped for 100 baht for 24 hours and saw Nelson at 9/11. We rode up to Tree House to collet My Italian guy aka lailai (his name is Emmanuel but Thai people cant say it so everyone knows him as Lai lai I didnt think to ask how it was slept though! - and onto an out of the way river where we had a dip and I epilated my legs. I know I have no shame! The scenery in this place is stunning. I am taking pictures everywhere I go because it is so beautoful. There is a magic, feel good atmosphere about Pai. I was relieved that the sun was just as strong in the day as I have thus far been accustomed to (!) but it does severely drop at night.
We rode on to a wonderful waterful called Ma Poeng. It was quite busy, being Sunday with the Thais and children off school but was still great. I dont know what I enjoy more about this place but there is something very freeing about being able to hop on a moped and go wherever you want. I think I appreciate it more because I havn't had my own car for so many years. I am not wearing a helmet because its frankly a pain in the arse and nobody does anyway. (If you're reading this, don't tell my Mum!)
I have decided I love motorbikes. It is so much more laid back than England - sometimes you see 4 people on one! Wow how cheap would that be if the girls were here too! I could happily stay in this region and use it as a base to explore the whole of northern Thailand by bike. It is so tempting. It is so tempting just to stay here. To spend weeks in this wonderful place exploring every nook and cranny. Anyway...
Leaving the waterfall as the sun went down, I said bye to lai lai as he had to go and do his bonfire (!) and I went to watch the sunset at the Pai canyon. Again stunning. Panoramic views of mountains on both sides of the valley. I motored back towards Pai to do to this theatre thing I been handed a flyer about earlier in the day, - cyrogenics I think it was called but I've lost the flyer - which while it didn't make complete sense to me was very visually interesting and just good to be around theatre in whatever form. I also got chatting to a guy who runs meditation courses nearby. It has no spiritual emphasis and to be honest I m quite interested only of course I'm moving onto Vietnam and Laos and Cambodia...
Anyway, came back to the bungalows would normally shower right about now but its too cold!!
I chugged up to the Tree House (I found it OK!) just in time to get some leftover food at about 9.30pm. I wanted and needed a fire as it is so bloody cold! Its the only thing about this place that isnt so great! Also i imagine Id get bored here after a while because theres not much to do in the evenings apart from drink which I'm not really that in to. I imagine thats what its like for my brother Ed who does a lot of ski and summer seasons in holoday resorts. Me and Lai lai headed into town to Tik tak or something (really should pay more attention to names - normally I refer to a map while writing my blog to remember where I've just been!) - and who should I see but the guys from Chang Mai who I had hung out my very first night when I arrived late from Sukkothie. It was good to see a friendly face, and I also met some new people such as Max from New York. We both wanted to go to Mae Hong Song which is a long motorbike ride away (by my standards) at about 3 hours or so, however there are some good caves on the way which are worth seeing and which I intend to use to break up my journey. Max is 23, a writer, and we gossiped about the industry and had a silly time trying to switch accents. Neither of us was very good. In fact he distincly sounded like some french porn star. It was very very funny. I stayed up with him by the bonfire far too late really. I'll regret it tomorrow. But hey ho. We have decided to leave tomorrow at 3 o clock. Road trip! Yay! I hope we get there without complication, and of course, any accidents. We have decided to share a bike to help with costs and so we get breaks from driving. Will be nice to have the company I doubt I'd do it by myself because so long on a bike.
I went to sleep at like 4.30am. Why oh why.
Money spent: 150 baht last nights room (single room, shared bathroom, no towel.) 100 baht moped hire (24 hours,) 70 baht petrol, 120 american breakfast, 5 baht water, batteries 25 baht, 7 baht water, 20 baht coke. 150 baht tonights accomodation (hut, shared bathroom, no towel, gorgeous views!, 150 baht mojito, 50 baht happy house gin and lemonade. TOTAL 847 / 16.94
Best thing: Buzzing about and discovering places on mopeds
Worst thing: Having tummy cramps from last nights chicken and the time of the month (sorry, guys).
21st Feb - Chang Mai day 2
Friday 21st Feb - Chang Mia day 2
I am sitting in bed writing this at the end of a looonng but good day. I am in Pai. I am sleeping above a rather loud bar! Basically I decided yesterday I wasnt gonna go on the trek with the girls, instead seeing Doi Suthep and Wat U Mong before hopefully catching a bus to Pai (Last one leaves at 4).Pai has this aura of mystery around it - and an expectation that you always end up staying longer than planned! I guess I am loosly thinking I will stay here 3 nights before heading off. But hot springs may change my mind ;) )
I basically slept so bad I felt I didnt sleep at all. Dunno why, especially after that vigorous Thai massage! That was enough to exhaust anyone! I wandered along the road to see about hiring a scooter as I was up so early so I could let the girls know I wasn't going with them on their day trek and also to return Laurens phone which I had used as a alarm clock (STILL need ot buy one desperado!!) and just to say bye as I wouldnt see them again til Laos - and didnt want to wake the Irish guy up. 'Tonys bikes' didnt recommend me tootling off by myself being unused to motorbikes. So I hung out at the guest house for a while, and me and Mr Irish guy headed off on his 750 cc motorbike when he woke up. I'm not used to being a motorbike passenger, so probably was a little bit tense especially in the local crazy traffic but I soon felt like a local! and mostly it was a really really cool experience. I felt safe with Irish guy as he had been driving all over northern Thailand, and drives a bike at home too. I love the feeling of going fast, with the wind in the hair, its the same with skiing really. But Thailand is notorious for road accidents and I think its the highest death rate amongst tourists. But its fun, everyone does it, and also was a really good way to get around in the heat as the wind keeps you nice and cool. I think as long as your sensible and dont get cocky its fine.
I liked the atmosphere ay Doi Suthep, it reminded me of a busier and somehow more cultural version of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as there was love Thai music playing, and dancing by kids from local schools. There was also a market nearby where I bought a couple of bracelets for 100 baht. The dancers used their hands so eloquantly, they seemed to take on a life of their own. I also noticed that in a Thai pop music video on the bus from Sukkothai to Chang Mai. They don't sexually grind their was through their music wearing scimpy clothes like in the West. There is much more innocence and class really. The more I experience other cultures the more I can see why England and America have a bad reputation for such things. It seems unecessary and immoral in comparison and quite cheap.
Wat U Mong in the forest had a totally different vibe than the city wats as was very peaceful. Me and Lorcan found a spot in the shade overlooking a lovely lake and chatted for a while. He's been to Thailand before but loves it and is here for 3 weeks this time round. We also fed some catfish which were huge! - and greedy. In the water we also saw some turtles. But it was very muddy and we could only see them when they surfaced. I got back just in time to get a shared taxi to the bus station where I was mentally preparing myself for the challenges of a government bus ride. However it seemed we were being transported in a rather nice taxi / mini bus vehicle which was I later learned double the price but still only a measly 150 baht. It was quite amusing actually as even though there were only 9 seats in the back we were all allocated numbered seats and the driver was very strict about upholding that we sit in the correct places! Gutted I didnt have an end seat as I was sort of dropping off then jumping awake and at one point woke to my head nearly resting on the poor guys shoulder next to me! He was a Thai boy, reallly nice and friendly, visiting his sister in Pai. We got chatting and it emerged he was a buddhist converted to Christianity. I was interested as to how this would happen as it is so dominated by buddhism in this country there seems little opportunity to be exposed to alternative religiions. He didnt understand my question but the guy in front of me said there were missionaries around which would explain it. I wonder why buddhism is respected as a religion, but christianity is generally not in the secular world. Jesus seems to be an offensive world and I dont really know why.
On this bus I got chatting to an Italian guy who seemed quite friendly and once in Pai at about 7.30pm I buzzed off with him on another motorbike to his bungalow (he was paying 60 baht a night but slightly out of town) where he said his friends were cooking. I wish I arrived in the day time in this place - the camp site was obviously high on a hill - I could see the lights of Pai and the name treetops also gave it away somewhat! The stars were really clear. I arrived really really tired and hungry and really I should have just parted from this guy in town and found a room but he seemed so helpful I didnt want to offend him and thought it would be nice to hang out with some people who had been here a ong time and knew where to go etc.
The bus stop was in the middle of the central main street. It looks like a really really lovely place I can tell Im going to like it already.
Arriving there was nelson, a guy called Alex, a spanish girl and a girl from Birmingham who had just been travelling in India. We ended up eating a gorgeous baked potato, chicken and rice soup all cooked over a camp fire which for those that know me is my idea of a good meal! It was so late by the time we actually ate it my stomach was turning insode out. But it was worth the wait. I love fire, I love camping,and I love food - this had all elements! I just wish I wasn't so tired!!!
What a life, Pai seems to be the kinda place people come to stay for long periods of time or always kinda find themselves coming back to as in the case of Nelson, whose fire and utensils we were using. The italian guy E offered that I could stay in his hut the night but you've got to have some controls, he seemed nice but I didn't know him and I couldn't be bothered with worrying whether he might try it on so come 11 o'clock another guy Alex (who has been basically travelling and working his way around the world for like 12 years) gave me a ride to find a room. As I feared by this time it was difficult and I wished I had put my foot down when I first arrived and checked in somewhere straight away rather than go with the flow (but I didnt want to offend E as he had rang ahead to see if there was a spare bungalow at his place and invited me to dinner with him and his friends which was very kind.)
Did find a place above a bar but tomorrow will try to move to riverside view - basically a magical place right on the river where I think irish guy Lorcan stayed when he was here. You have to see the photos to believe it! Apparantly it gets full at weekends because of Thais coming for weekend breaks.
I thought it was too bad to arrive in Pai my first night and go to bed however tired I was so came back out. We started off in Jacks, got on the bikes to go to a reggae party which wasn't happening so we ended up at bamboo bar. I wsh there were bars like this back home! They had a couple of fires and the atmosphere was great. To be honest by this time it was really dead so I called it a night.
Its definately signifiantly colder here than anywhere else in Thailand. In one way it is a nice change but it really threw me as Im used to nor worrying about wearing clothing for warmth. At night there is a definate chill that reminds me of England (NOO!!!). Thus far accomodations I have stayed in has given me only a sheet to sleep under, Here it is a kind of padded sheet or thin quilt, and I asked for an extra blanket which just about did me. The lady who works here said only two weeks ago they were all wearing gloves and woolly hats! Incredible!
Reading a newspaper today I noted that the weather in Ko Pang Yang and Ko Tao was considered 'Hazerdous' and Bankok and the midlands 'unhealthy' heat. I think this trip has been timed pretty well so far but methinks Vietnam will be another story!
Money spent: Water and bread 25 baht, 50 taxi car, 150 bus to Pai, 100 baht bracelets, 20 baht strawberries, 15 sandwiiches, 35 drinks, 60 baht 2 x entrance to Doi Suthep, 100 bat beers. TOTAL: 520 baht / 10 pounds 40.
Best thing: Motorbiking round Chamg Mai with Irish guy Lorcan and bonfire meal.
Worst thing: Not having slept last night.
I am sitting in bed writing this at the end of a looonng but good day. I am in Pai. I am sleeping above a rather loud bar! Basically I decided yesterday I wasnt gonna go on the trek with the girls, instead seeing Doi Suthep and Wat U Mong before hopefully catching a bus to Pai (Last one leaves at 4).Pai has this aura of mystery around it - and an expectation that you always end up staying longer than planned! I guess I am loosly thinking I will stay here 3 nights before heading off. But hot springs may change my mind ;) )
I basically slept so bad I felt I didnt sleep at all. Dunno why, especially after that vigorous Thai massage! That was enough to exhaust anyone! I wandered along the road to see about hiring a scooter as I was up so early so I could let the girls know I wasn't going with them on their day trek and also to return Laurens phone which I had used as a alarm clock (STILL need ot buy one desperado!!) and just to say bye as I wouldnt see them again til Laos - and didnt want to wake the Irish guy up. 'Tonys bikes' didnt recommend me tootling off by myself being unused to motorbikes. So I hung out at the guest house for a while, and me and Mr Irish guy headed off on his 750 cc motorbike when he woke up. I'm not used to being a motorbike passenger, so probably was a little bit tense especially in the local crazy traffic but I soon felt like a local! and mostly it was a really really cool experience. I felt safe with Irish guy as he had been driving all over northern Thailand, and drives a bike at home too. I love the feeling of going fast, with the wind in the hair, its the same with skiing really. But Thailand is notorious for road accidents and I think its the highest death rate amongst tourists. But its fun, everyone does it, and also was a really good way to get around in the heat as the wind keeps you nice and cool. I think as long as your sensible and dont get cocky its fine.
I liked the atmosphere ay Doi Suthep, it reminded me of a busier and somehow more cultural version of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as there was love Thai music playing, and dancing by kids from local schools. There was also a market nearby where I bought a couple of bracelets for 100 baht. The dancers used their hands so eloquantly, they seemed to take on a life of their own. I also noticed that in a Thai pop music video on the bus from Sukkothai to Chang Mai. They don't sexually grind their was through their music wearing scimpy clothes like in the West. There is much more innocence and class really. The more I experience other cultures the more I can see why England and America have a bad reputation for such things. It seems unecessary and immoral in comparison and quite cheap.
Wat U Mong in the forest had a totally different vibe than the city wats as was very peaceful. Me and Lorcan found a spot in the shade overlooking a lovely lake and chatted for a while. He's been to Thailand before but loves it and is here for 3 weeks this time round. We also fed some catfish which were huge! - and greedy. In the water we also saw some turtles. But it was very muddy and we could only see them when they surfaced. I got back just in time to get a shared taxi to the bus station where I was mentally preparing myself for the challenges of a government bus ride. However it seemed we were being transported in a rather nice taxi / mini bus vehicle which was I later learned double the price but still only a measly 150 baht. It was quite amusing actually as even though there were only 9 seats in the back we were all allocated numbered seats and the driver was very strict about upholding that we sit in the correct places! Gutted I didnt have an end seat as I was sort of dropping off then jumping awake and at one point woke to my head nearly resting on the poor guys shoulder next to me! He was a Thai boy, reallly nice and friendly, visiting his sister in Pai. We got chatting and it emerged he was a buddhist converted to Christianity. I was interested as to how this would happen as it is so dominated by buddhism in this country there seems little opportunity to be exposed to alternative religiions. He didnt understand my question but the guy in front of me said there were missionaries around which would explain it. I wonder why buddhism is respected as a religion, but christianity is generally not in the secular world. Jesus seems to be an offensive world and I dont really know why.
On this bus I got chatting to an Italian guy who seemed quite friendly and once in Pai at about 7.30pm I buzzed off with him on another motorbike to his bungalow (he was paying 60 baht a night but slightly out of town) where he said his friends were cooking. I wish I arrived in the day time in this place - the camp site was obviously high on a hill - I could see the lights of Pai and the name treetops also gave it away somewhat! The stars were really clear. I arrived really really tired and hungry and really I should have just parted from this guy in town and found a room but he seemed so helpful I didnt want to offend him and thought it would be nice to hang out with some people who had been here a ong time and knew where to go etc.
The bus stop was in the middle of the central main street. It looks like a really really lovely place I can tell Im going to like it already.
Arriving there was nelson, a guy called Alex, a spanish girl and a girl from Birmingham who had just been travelling in India. We ended up eating a gorgeous baked potato, chicken and rice soup all cooked over a camp fire which for those that know me is my idea of a good meal! It was so late by the time we actually ate it my stomach was turning insode out. But it was worth the wait. I love fire, I love camping,and I love food - this had all elements! I just wish I wasn't so tired!!!
What a life, Pai seems to be the kinda place people come to stay for long periods of time or always kinda find themselves coming back to as in the case of Nelson, whose fire and utensils we were using. The italian guy E offered that I could stay in his hut the night but you've got to have some controls, he seemed nice but I didn't know him and I couldn't be bothered with worrying whether he might try it on so come 11 o'clock another guy Alex (who has been basically travelling and working his way around the world for like 12 years) gave me a ride to find a room. As I feared by this time it was difficult and I wished I had put my foot down when I first arrived and checked in somewhere straight away rather than go with the flow (but I didnt want to offend E as he had rang ahead to see if there was a spare bungalow at his place and invited me to dinner with him and his friends which was very kind.)
Did find a place above a bar but tomorrow will try to move to riverside view - basically a magical place right on the river where I think irish guy Lorcan stayed when he was here. You have to see the photos to believe it! Apparantly it gets full at weekends because of Thais coming for weekend breaks.
I thought it was too bad to arrive in Pai my first night and go to bed however tired I was so came back out. We started off in Jacks, got on the bikes to go to a reggae party which wasn't happening so we ended up at bamboo bar. I wsh there were bars like this back home! They had a couple of fires and the atmosphere was great. To be honest by this time it was really dead so I called it a night.
Its definately signifiantly colder here than anywhere else in Thailand. In one way it is a nice change but it really threw me as Im used to nor worrying about wearing clothing for warmth. At night there is a definate chill that reminds me of England (NOO!!!). Thus far accomodations I have stayed in has given me only a sheet to sleep under, Here it is a kind of padded sheet or thin quilt, and I asked for an extra blanket which just about did me. The lady who works here said only two weeks ago they were all wearing gloves and woolly hats! Incredible!
Reading a newspaper today I noted that the weather in Ko Pang Yang and Ko Tao was considered 'Hazerdous' and Bankok and the midlands 'unhealthy' heat. I think this trip has been timed pretty well so far but methinks Vietnam will be another story!
Money spent: Water and bread 25 baht, 50 taxi car, 150 bus to Pai, 100 baht bracelets, 20 baht strawberries, 15 sandwiiches, 35 drinks, 60 baht 2 x entrance to Doi Suthep, 100 bat beers. TOTAL: 520 baht / 10 pounds 40.
Best thing: Motorbiking round Chamg Mai with Irish guy Lorcan and bonfire meal.
Worst thing: Not having slept last night.
Friday, 20 February 2009
20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai
Thursday 20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai
Ive been here 2 weeks now! And done so much already!
I suprisingly woke up at 9am considering last night late escapades. I showered, actually appreciating a warm (hot would be pushing it) shower for the first time since I got here) and went around to the girls, who are staying just around the corner. I slept quite well last night and may as well stay here to be less disruptive to everyone. I woke them up about 9.45 and I kinda got the impression they wern't in any rush to go anywhere! It's great being back with them again but find it a little frustrating they take so long to get going in the morning (especially when they are working to limited time factors) because its like nearly afternoon by the time we've had breakfast! Anyway, I tootled off to get necessary things like malaria tablets (soooo cheap!! - 5 quid for 10 weeks supply!), deet spray and more sun tan lotion, and got a little lost but I found my way back by 11.15 and they were still in their room! We had breakfast (muesli and orange juice) and then we set off to the walking tour of the important temples as suggested by lonely planet. They are all pretty cool to be honest but I especially liked Wat Phang Tao, an 'unsung treasure' of Chang Mai - a gorgeous teak temple, and Wat Phra Singh, the most impressive temple in Chang Mai, with the citys most revered buddha image. At Wat Chedi Luang, we chatted with a 20 year old monk. He had been a novice monk since the age of 12, and a proper monk for 3 years so far. He was an extremely friendly guy, full of laughter and smiles. We chatted about general things and then I asked some questions about buddhism. He told us monks have something like 223 forbidden rules (and with a sideways cheeky glance he confessed he couldnt remember them all, followed by a giggle!) We had to be careful not to make contact with him for this reason, as purity, virtue and something else and are the 3 aspects of his religion - he explained that women were 'dangerous!' Discipline and d? are also important to him. They do believe Buddha is alive, and the purpose of their faith is to attain nirvana, a state he believes he is close to as a monk but he also said he was a monk on the inside and the outside. Other people may not outwardly be adorned as such but may be a monk on the inside. Later, when I and the girls were chatting about him, Lauren commented that he was very unaffected and genuine, he did not impose his religion on others like some christian evanglists but was happy to explain and answer questions if people we interested. I know what she meant. This man was quietly living out his religion, but not inflicting it on anyone else. And this makes it more attractive. People are drawn to the qualities they display and the virtues are all honourable and good. I suppose monks in england are the same though, it doesnt necessarily reflect religious orientation.
The second monk we talked to at a different temple (these temples have allocated space for 'monk chat' - they are often keen to practice their english and share their religion) had a weaker grasp of English and couldnt answer my question as to whether they wore anything under their robes! I completely misinterpreted Lauren when she mentioned after the first chat that she meant to ask if they wore other clothes. She meant as in casual clothes, but of course I took it to mean like scots wear kilts, an analogy I tried to use on the poor unsuspecting young monk, which was lost on him!
Dont think me too bad though. The novice, younger monks made no pretence in their interest in the ladies. I got called 'beautiful' - do they know my age?! - and all my friends witnessed their adolescent glances and giggles. Boys will be boys, novice monk or no! It is a strange scene though, in the last temple we visited they were absolutely everywhere.
Ok here's the funniest bit. I had a Thai massage. By the females in the womens prison. For some reason, I thought Thai massage was a nice relaxing, well english massage, but er in Thailand...?! Basically being ignorant to the cultural differences I just assumed a massage was a massage was a massage. How wrong I was. The first clue was the fact we had to put strange garnments on. Lauren, seeing my confused face enlightened me to the fact it was more about pulling and pushing you around than actual body tissue massage - that was an oil massage. Oh. Great! So much for the relaxing session I had been so anticipating! These women were amazing though. They used their own muscle strength and leverage and what not to really manipulate and pummel my body and I do mean pummel, gently these convicts were not! It really was so physical - they used their entire bodies to 'massage' me ie simultaneoulsy giving me pain and well more pain actually m it wasnt really until afterwards you feel the benefit although I did particularly enjoy having my feet washed and the small bits of time they more traditionally massage your hands and back (with a few elbows thrown into the mix and she did threated to stand on my back! - it was incredible to me they had so much agility and energy. Agile or no, you are when you finish as they force your body into strange contortions and swing and throw you around in rabdom positions but the whole thing is ingenious actually and I would definately have it again.
It was, really rather painful in parts but it left me feeling deeply rejuvinated and relaxed and more flexible somehow. I wondered if so much force was really needed - is this a buch of sado-masochists, or is this punishment to the world that imprisoned them? I do not know - this was Laurens 3rd Thai massage and one that she said was definately the hardest. But they didnt show their effort. They chatted and smiled their way though like a bunch of teenage girls, being true Thai and even treating work with a sense of play.
We had dinner in the main square and then headed back before the Thai boxing match. Its called My Thai or thats how its prounounced it must be mae thai - and a combination of boxing and martial arts. The boxers do a kind of dance as their warm up in the ring, and they do their little worship actions to each other and the corners of the ring, possibly something to do with an amulet around their heads which they remove before they fight. There is a LOT of respect between the fighters and you get the feeling they are friends having a bout rather than having a serious competition. However, some strong kicks and punches were soon flying around so I'm sure it was misleading. Once I had cheated and stood near the VIP area with a better view it was much more interesting, you could see the sweat, the muscles flexing, the facial expressions. The atmosphere was also better. The highlight was an australian guy who knocked his opponant out in the 2nd round! I really enjoyed it and we are all tempted to do a thai boxing workshop. I think it is so good the respect in this country though. It is a mutual submission all the time and is lovely.
We got a tuk tuk back and I got chatting to a Irish guy in my guest house. He is the 2nd person who has recommended Pai to me so I am tempted to split with the girls again and meet them in Laos. I had decided I was gonna go along with them on their one day trek. But now I may join this irish guy on his motorbike so I finishing the sites of Chang Mai before heading off to do some far north rural Thailand. Glad I started my anti malaria tablets today! Still gonna get up early to tell the girls what my plan is. Excited again. Hope it works out and we meet up in Luang Prabang.
Best thing: Cheap cheap cheap anti-malarials (5 pounds for 10 weeks), chatting with monks and Thai Massage and Thai boxing match.
Worst thing: Just bit tired and would have liked to have seen the other temple and started out a bit earlier and done more so more time to chill and rest before boxing.
Money spent: 150 accomodation, 80 breakfast, 10 bread, 12 water, 750 pharmacy supplies, black skirt, 200 Thai massage, 20 baht orange juice, 155 dinner (proper western pasta, olives, mozerella.) purse 35 baht, boxing match 350 baht, coke 20 baht, tuk tuk x 2 40 baht..TOTAL 1072 BAHT / 10.72 and 750 baht / 15 quid for pills not included in everyday budget.
Ive been here 2 weeks now! And done so much already!
I suprisingly woke up at 9am considering last night late escapades. I showered, actually appreciating a warm (hot would be pushing it) shower for the first time since I got here) and went around to the girls, who are staying just around the corner. I slept quite well last night and may as well stay here to be less disruptive to everyone. I woke them up about 9.45 and I kinda got the impression they wern't in any rush to go anywhere! It's great being back with them again but find it a little frustrating they take so long to get going in the morning (especially when they are working to limited time factors) because its like nearly afternoon by the time we've had breakfast! Anyway, I tootled off to get necessary things like malaria tablets (soooo cheap!! - 5 quid for 10 weeks supply!), deet spray and more sun tan lotion, and got a little lost but I found my way back by 11.15 and they were still in their room! We had breakfast (muesli and orange juice) and then we set off to the walking tour of the important temples as suggested by lonely planet. They are all pretty cool to be honest but I especially liked Wat Phang Tao, an 'unsung treasure' of Chang Mai - a gorgeous teak temple, and Wat Phra Singh, the most impressive temple in Chang Mai, with the citys most revered buddha image. At Wat Chedi Luang, we chatted with a 20 year old monk. He had been a novice monk since the age of 12, and a proper monk for 3 years so far. He was an extremely friendly guy, full of laughter and smiles. We chatted about general things and then I asked some questions about buddhism. He told us monks have something like 223 forbidden rules (and with a sideways cheeky glance he confessed he couldnt remember them all, followed by a giggle!) We had to be careful not to make contact with him for this reason, as purity, virtue and something else and are the 3 aspects of his religion - he explained that women were 'dangerous!' Discipline and d? are also important to him. They do believe Buddha is alive, and the purpose of their faith is to attain nirvana, a state he believes he is close to as a monk but he also said he was a monk on the inside and the outside. Other people may not outwardly be adorned as such but may be a monk on the inside. Later, when I and the girls were chatting about him, Lauren commented that he was very unaffected and genuine, he did not impose his religion on others like some christian evanglists but was happy to explain and answer questions if people we interested. I know what she meant. This man was quietly living out his religion, but not inflicting it on anyone else. And this makes it more attractive. People are drawn to the qualities they display and the virtues are all honourable and good. I suppose monks in england are the same though, it doesnt necessarily reflect religious orientation.
The second monk we talked to at a different temple (these temples have allocated space for 'monk chat' - they are often keen to practice their english and share their religion) had a weaker grasp of English and couldnt answer my question as to whether they wore anything under their robes! I completely misinterpreted Lauren when she mentioned after the first chat that she meant to ask if they wore other clothes. She meant as in casual clothes, but of course I took it to mean like scots wear kilts, an analogy I tried to use on the poor unsuspecting young monk, which was lost on him!
Dont think me too bad though. The novice, younger monks made no pretence in their interest in the ladies. I got called 'beautiful' - do they know my age?! - and all my friends witnessed their adolescent glances and giggles. Boys will be boys, novice monk or no! It is a strange scene though, in the last temple we visited they were absolutely everywhere.
Ok here's the funniest bit. I had a Thai massage. By the females in the womens prison. For some reason, I thought Thai massage was a nice relaxing, well english massage, but er in Thailand...?! Basically being ignorant to the cultural differences I just assumed a massage was a massage was a massage. How wrong I was. The first clue was the fact we had to put strange garnments on. Lauren, seeing my confused face enlightened me to the fact it was more about pulling and pushing you around than actual body tissue massage - that was an oil massage. Oh. Great! So much for the relaxing session I had been so anticipating! These women were amazing though. They used their own muscle strength and leverage and what not to really manipulate and pummel my body and I do mean pummel, gently these convicts were not! It really was so physical - they used their entire bodies to 'massage' me ie simultaneoulsy giving me pain and well more pain actually m it wasnt really until afterwards you feel the benefit although I did particularly enjoy having my feet washed and the small bits of time they more traditionally massage your hands and back (with a few elbows thrown into the mix and she did threated to stand on my back! - it was incredible to me they had so much agility and energy. Agile or no, you are when you finish as they force your body into strange contortions and swing and throw you around in rabdom positions but the whole thing is ingenious actually and I would definately have it again.
It was, really rather painful in parts but it left me feeling deeply rejuvinated and relaxed and more flexible somehow. I wondered if so much force was really needed - is this a buch of sado-masochists, or is this punishment to the world that imprisoned them? I do not know - this was Laurens 3rd Thai massage and one that she said was definately the hardest. But they didnt show their effort. They chatted and smiled their way though like a bunch of teenage girls, being true Thai and even treating work with a sense of play.
We had dinner in the main square and then headed back before the Thai boxing match. Its called My Thai or thats how its prounounced it must be mae thai - and a combination of boxing and martial arts. The boxers do a kind of dance as their warm up in the ring, and they do their little worship actions to each other and the corners of the ring, possibly something to do with an amulet around their heads which they remove before they fight. There is a LOT of respect between the fighters and you get the feeling they are friends having a bout rather than having a serious competition. However, some strong kicks and punches were soon flying around so I'm sure it was misleading. Once I had cheated and stood near the VIP area with a better view it was much more interesting, you could see the sweat, the muscles flexing, the facial expressions. The atmosphere was also better. The highlight was an australian guy who knocked his opponant out in the 2nd round! I really enjoyed it and we are all tempted to do a thai boxing workshop. I think it is so good the respect in this country though. It is a mutual submission all the time and is lovely.
We got a tuk tuk back and I got chatting to a Irish guy in my guest house. He is the 2nd person who has recommended Pai to me so I am tempted to split with the girls again and meet them in Laos. I had decided I was gonna go along with them on their one day trek. But now I may join this irish guy on his motorbike so I finishing the sites of Chang Mai before heading off to do some far north rural Thailand. Glad I started my anti malaria tablets today! Still gonna get up early to tell the girls what my plan is. Excited again. Hope it works out and we meet up in Luang Prabang.
Best thing: Cheap cheap cheap anti-malarials (5 pounds for 10 weeks), chatting with monks and Thai Massage and Thai boxing match.
Worst thing: Just bit tired and would have liked to have seen the other temple and started out a bit earlier and done more so more time to chill and rest before boxing.
Money spent: 150 accomodation, 80 breakfast, 10 bread, 12 water, 750 pharmacy supplies, black skirt, 200 Thai massage, 20 baht orange juice, 155 dinner (proper western pasta, olives, mozerella.) purse 35 baht, boxing match 350 baht, coke 20 baht, tuk tuk x 2 40 baht..TOTAL 1072 BAHT / 10.72 and 750 baht / 15 quid for pills not included in everyday budget.
19th Feb - Sukkothai day and Chang Mai night
Wednesday 19th Feb - Sukkothai day and Chang Mai night
(written quite fast so sorry ill try embelish at later date)
Slept very well until I needed the loo then was so paranoid about oversleeping I didn't at all! Having to check out early gotta sort my overnight bus too. Hung out with the girls and saw some cool temples. We cycled around. Much different atmosphere to Ayutthaya. The main Wat Maharat was amazing it was utterly huge. I love old ruins. I was tempted to stay and do more but dont wanna fall too far behind the girls and Ill have less time in Chang Mai as it is. I decided I had done enough to whet my appetite, especially as we had left at 8am - its suprising what you can achieve when you get up early! The bus back to new sukkothia was so incredibly slow I rushed to get to the bus station for the 3 o clock bus before being told it had been involved in an accident. I waited for the 4.30 and by complete coincidence - because I had kinda given up hope - the bus station had wireless yippee! After acquiring more than a few curious glances from Thais probably thinking I was ultra rich or something, I go on the bus (late of course!) and basically was it a 5 hour journey? er. NO! Was there a TOILET?! Can you believe it, a 6 1/2 hour journey and no toilet! Got to the bus station in Chang Mai much later than ideal as I was by myself and not knowing where I was going to sleep at 11pm. ANYWAY I paid a rather expensive but apaprantly standard 80 baht to get to the vicinity the girls were staying in. I knocked on about 5 doors (and some wernt even answering at that time) before I struck lucky with a single room for 150 baht. Felt extremely grubby and minging and was ithching like crazy and could desperately have done with a nice shower then bed but NO! I had to get chatting to a bunch of people who had just come back from a 3 day trek who were eating in the resteraunt of my accomodation and so of course in traveller mode I went with the flow after they invited me to join them for drinks. We went to a gorgeous and very chilled / mellow / hippy 'rooftop' bar near the main square. Couldn't actually believe it when Lauren approaches me - a few screams and hugs and reconciliations follow leaving me with a very warm and happy feeling, reunited with my friends after a whole - what 30 hours?! It seemed like longer though and was soo cool we happened to be in the same place. I left after my friends as I went back and forth between the two groups. When I eventually left, I went to collect my shoes (thats what happens in Thailand, you take your footwear off for shops, bars etc) and some skank had nicked them! I couldnt believe it! So I walked home in an old pair of flip flops given to me by the owner. Welcome to Chang Mai!! On the way out a bloke and his friends invited me on to a club. As I was severely lacking will power I went along, but the club (which had a sign no lady boys!) smelt really bad and wasn't as good as it had been when they were there the night before. Sooo...we went in search of open bars, julies, smiles and eventually I gave up and went to bed! Especially as the guy I was with was getting fresh with me...
Money spent: 20 baht bus to old sukkothai, 100 admin inner city, 100 admin north, 80 baht sun hat! 150 baht accomodation last night, 6 baht ice cream, 60 baht lunch (omlette and cold water) 20 baht bus back to guest house, 30 baht lipton ice tea and water at 7/11, 40 baht tuk tuk to bus station, 218 baht bus to Chang Mai, 30 baht phoning girls, 80 baht to guest house, 150 baht accomodation tonight, 120 baht mojito, 62 baht cheese and ham toasted sandwich, 20 baht tuk tuk back from club
TOTAL: 1286 babt / 25.62
Best thing: Wat Maharat
Worst thing: Looong bus ride
(written quite fast so sorry ill try embelish at later date)
Slept very well until I needed the loo then was so paranoid about oversleeping I didn't at all! Having to check out early gotta sort my overnight bus too. Hung out with the girls and saw some cool temples. We cycled around. Much different atmosphere to Ayutthaya. The main Wat Maharat was amazing it was utterly huge. I love old ruins. I was tempted to stay and do more but dont wanna fall too far behind the girls and Ill have less time in Chang Mai as it is. I decided I had done enough to whet my appetite, especially as we had left at 8am - its suprising what you can achieve when you get up early! The bus back to new sukkothia was so incredibly slow I rushed to get to the bus station for the 3 o clock bus before being told it had been involved in an accident. I waited for the 4.30 and by complete coincidence - because I had kinda given up hope - the bus station had wireless yippee! After acquiring more than a few curious glances from Thais probably thinking I was ultra rich or something, I go on the bus (late of course!) and basically was it a 5 hour journey? er. NO! Was there a TOILET?! Can you believe it, a 6 1/2 hour journey and no toilet! Got to the bus station in Chang Mai much later than ideal as I was by myself and not knowing where I was going to sleep at 11pm. ANYWAY I paid a rather expensive but apaprantly standard 80 baht to get to the vicinity the girls were staying in. I knocked on about 5 doors (and some wernt even answering at that time) before I struck lucky with a single room for 150 baht. Felt extremely grubby and minging and was ithching like crazy and could desperately have done with a nice shower then bed but NO! I had to get chatting to a bunch of people who had just come back from a 3 day trek who were eating in the resteraunt of my accomodation and so of course in traveller mode I went with the flow after they invited me to join them for drinks. We went to a gorgeous and very chilled / mellow / hippy 'rooftop' bar near the main square. Couldn't actually believe it when Lauren approaches me - a few screams and hugs and reconciliations follow leaving me with a very warm and happy feeling, reunited with my friends after a whole - what 30 hours?! It seemed like longer though and was soo cool we happened to be in the same place. I left after my friends as I went back and forth between the two groups. When I eventually left, I went to collect my shoes (thats what happens in Thailand, you take your footwear off for shops, bars etc) and some skank had nicked them! I couldnt believe it! So I walked home in an old pair of flip flops given to me by the owner. Welcome to Chang Mai!! On the way out a bloke and his friends invited me on to a club. As I was severely lacking will power I went along, but the club (which had a sign no lady boys!) smelt really bad and wasn't as good as it had been when they were there the night before. Sooo...we went in search of open bars, julies, smiles and eventually I gave up and went to bed! Especially as the guy I was with was getting fresh with me...
Money spent: 20 baht bus to old sukkothai, 100 admin inner city, 100 admin north, 80 baht sun hat! 150 baht accomodation last night, 6 baht ice cream, 60 baht lunch (omlette and cold water) 20 baht bus back to guest house, 30 baht lipton ice tea and water at 7/11, 40 baht tuk tuk to bus station, 218 baht bus to Chang Mai, 30 baht phoning girls, 80 baht to guest house, 150 baht accomodation tonight, 120 baht mojito, 62 baht cheese and ham toasted sandwich, 20 baht tuk tuk back from club
TOTAL: 1286 babt / 25.62
Best thing: Wat Maharat
Worst thing: Looong bus ride
Thursday, 19 February 2009
18th Feb - Lopburi, land of the monkeys
Tuesday 18th Feb - Lopburi and arriving Sukkothai
Wow what a cool day so far. I woke up earlier this morning than the alarm was set for so I left at 8am to catch a tuk tuk to the station hoping to leave on the earlier 8.35 to Lompuri, land of the monkeys as a pit stop on the way to Sukothai. True to Thai form - (as I'm quickly discovering puncuality is the exeption rather than the norm) - it left over half an hour late but was only 20 baht so can't really complain! Journey took 40 minutes and I was very reliant on others to a) get on the right train and b) get off at the right stop! I'm feeling good going off on my own, but also its nice to know I will be meeting my friends again in Chang Mai soon. I just have this feeling I will be at full pelt to pack everything in and not fall too far behind because there is just so much I wanna do in this area and I dont wanna miss it by rushing off to Laos.
I set off on a mission once arriving in Lopburi. determined to see the important sites and maximise my time and experience here. I had done my homework and identified and familiarised myself with the important temples but lets face it all I was really interested in was the monkeys! After paying 50 baht to look around Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (directly opposite from the station) which according to Lonely Planet is one of the cities oldest, and was the largest monastry in Lompburis hayday. The main standing tower was quite pretty with lintels still intact and some ornate decoration. I walked up the road and passed Wat Nakhon Kosa (built in 12th century) which may have been a hindu shrine. It was rather funny as it had moss growing out of the top, looking like an ancient version of bart simpson. .
Continuing along the same road, I came to two of the most important places. The first, San Phra Kan I entered, and was obviously popular pilgramedge destination as many Thais were paying their respects to Buddha and burning various things that I have yet to learn of and understand. It was ver colourful and attractvie inside - in fact generally over here I see many more bold and bright colours which I like. When I came out, I saw the famous monkeys. I was a little apprehensive as I had briefly chatted to one english speaking couple who said they had tied to grab their camera, and another claiming someone they knew had got bitten! So I, er, appreciated them from a a distance, after removing my sparkly jewellery, fastening my bag securely, and gripping onto my camcorder and camera for dear life! I am fascinated by monkeys, hence my desire to visit Lompuri. Crossing over to the other shrine Wat Sam Yot, was a dangerous adventure in itself! - the little creatures were everywhere, scrambling, crawling, fighting, or just passing the time of day. They collected on street corners and upon deciding to cross the road, cars literally had to stop and wait for them. Approaching buses hooted in anticipation of them crossing and cars with wise locals apprached slowly around the bend in the road. It was also quite amusing as they would congregate and wait in groups, seemingly observing the traffic, and then cross at an opportune moment, like a crowd of school children.
Wat Sam Yot was literally amazing due to the actual temple itself in addition to the copious amount of monkeys resting or playing in its creveses and shadows. This was a fantastic site, and I took many a photo from all angles. This place to me equates with The Temple of the Emereld Buddha albeit in a very different way. So far, Emerald Buddha, Scuba Diving and this, Wat Sam Yok, have been my highlights, followed by the full moon party. But I had to get a move on as only a couple of hours until my onward train.
Walking up the road in the vague direction towards the palace I found an indoor market. I really enjoy shopping at markets and was pleased to pick up a pair of leggins for 99 baht which I have been looking out for in England anyway. The clothes here are on a par with the night market in Ayutthaya in terms of prices. Possibly a little less.
Continuining, I happened across the palace grounds. I couldnt believe it upon entering as a festival was in full swing which I had read was in February but thought what are the chances?! People - all Thais as as I could see - were milling everywhere within the grounds, music was playing, a couple of shows were taking place, there were loads of school children about and generally a happy summer carnival atmosphere (even though, of course, it was their winter, a fact that continues to amaze me in the soaring heat). Ayutthaya and to a lesser extent Lompuri, being central Thailand, I read, are prone to humidity and stickiness as well as rain but not much chance of that its not in season.
Sitting down at one point in the shade with my orange juice to have a little rest and cool off, I got into limited conversation (mainly in the form of giggles and gestures on both sides) with a load of Thai primary school children. They wear colourful attire in Thailand, dark bottoms but tops of all the colours of the rainbow in a silk like material to keep them cool. I was trying to explain that in England (which many hadn't heard of) it is snowing. They didn't get this either, as they've probably never seen the stuff in their whole life! It was one of those moments when you really feel like your experiecing the culture and not just observing it from a distance. I was no longer in a rush, this place was so lovely I was thinking I'd catch a later train anyway. I was a novelty in this place, I did not see many tourists / travellers / westeners at all (even though being in the palace grounds it was a tourist area) so in their eyes, I was a minor celebrity, they all wanted to sit by me and shake my hand, an action I instigated in a very english like way and which produced giggles every time. It was fun.
I eventually said my goobyes after a few photos, and many a handshake and smile. I saw a sign and clocked that the area I was in was the palace grounds and the ruins I had seen amongst the fetivities aactually significant places of interest. I thought perhaps I could make the 1 o clock after all as the next train wsnt til 5, and I would haev arrived quite late in Sukothia by myself with nowhere booked to stay. I also wanted a bit of time to chat and plan tomorrow if I only have one full day. So I wizzed around the museum, and looked about the grounds which were beautiful and colourful and in immaculate condition with many little quirky features, and although very tempted to stay, made my way back to the train station which didn't take very long at all. Being easier to ask directions than use my basic map ripped out of my lonely planet guide, fortunately someone recognised 'station' as for some reason, Thai's cannot read maps, or perhaps only English maps which would be more understandable!
Outside the station I bought a 30 baht meal and then a ticket for my ongoing journey. It was the rapid train so about 8 times the cost of an ordinary one, but needs must. Its still only 8 quid for a 600 K journey (what's that in mile again?!) and it gives me more time in a place I dont have much time in ;)
While I was waiting for the delayed train, I chatted with a couple from Belgium who also have the same plans as me so at least I have some company when making my connecting bus and possibly even finding accomodation / tuk tuk. Also recommended Tommys on Ko Tao for diving. I should get commission...
Bloomin fantastic day so far really really great. Think the palace festival will also have to go down as one of my most significant events in Thailand. Not bad, two in one day and Im not even in Sukothait yet...
I am writing this on the train. I am very very very glad to have brought my netbook along. a) it gives me something to do on long journeys b) it allows me to keep a blog much more easily and c) the girls are finding it useful too for photos and to chanrge lotties ipod! So thanks to my brother Ed for encouraging me.
I am debating how much information to put on this blog. I think I may start giving an overview of a place, sort of hard facts for those completely unfamilar but also to remind me of the context of places when I read this blog in the future.
Very pleased spent the entire 3 hours journey neatly putting all my photos so far and ones I want the girls took into neat folders in my netbook. Im organised really! ts s6 bizarre the only way I know the time is by looking at the time on my netbook then adding 7 hours. Also, I have no way of knowing which stop that station is - they write 'please do not put rubbish down the toilet but in the bins provided' but can't translate the stations stops to English! Help! ps yay the tiolet had toilet roll!!!
Bit daft Ive been turning food down the whole journey (its quite common on Thai trains for people to come on and sell food but always more expensive) but I realised it was free - I think Rapid is the equivalent of 1st class here or something!)
Sukothi means 'dawn of happiness'. How nice. Ok so Sukothai was the first capital of Siam, flourishing from mid 13th C to late 14th C. The Sukothai kingdom was viewed as the 'golden age' of Thai civilisation.' The old city contains 45sq k of ruins, which are one of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand. Its dynasty lasted 200 years and nine kings.
Well it was a loong journey all in all, 1 train (which arrived an hour late!), 2 buses, then 1 tuk tuk - but finally at 7.15 pm I am in a single room at 'Garden House' for the grand price of 150 baht. I am sooo glad I didnt hang around in Lopburi as there would have been no onward buses to Sukothai at that time but Lonely planet did not think to write that! I have two single beds - very hard matresses which I like - which take up 2/3 of the space but it is Thai style, bamboo walls, reasonably lit, mosquito net on the window, and a fan. (oh did I mention no electricity points but its OK I'm using one right outside my room and trailing it in.) There's a shared bathroom - little did I know there was only 1 shower - shared among 6 rooms! - so here I am, sitting in my towel STILL but I'm next in line! - trying to make use of my time as it's not like I can wander around dressed like this! There is world news on the TV downstairs so I am looking forward to chilling. I may wander into new sukothai and find a wireless connection over dinner. I really need an alarm clock too!
I wandered into New Sukothai - still dont know how to pronouce it - not much going on. Bought dinner in a kind of street market. Felt quite tired. Watched some trashy Thai soap is absolutely hilarious but the locals love it. Aproached 3 girls after the meal - only other westerners I could see - and we got chatting and I had a beer with them and basically exchanged travel stories. We arranged to meet tomorrow to tour old sukothai - which was good - but meeting at 8am - which is not so good! Suppose may as well make good of my day just worried as have no way of setting alarm and also have to check out by then too. Had another shower before I went to bed and tried to organise myself as much as poss as I have told one of the girls my room number so she can knock if I oversleep! Is now just gone 10.30 so gonna try and get a good 8 1/2 hours fingers crossed...
ps Ive got blisters and havnt booked yet alone know details about how Im gonna get to Chang Mai tomorrow night.. ah well.
Money spent: Tuk Tuk to station from PU Guest house 40 baht, baggage holding fee at station 10 baht, 50 baht entrance Wat Phra Si Ratana, Train Ayutthaya to Lompuri 20 baht (3rd class), Lunch (street stall outside station) 30 baht, orange juice from market 10 baht, black leggins from market 99 baht. Train - rapid 2nd class to Philamoluk - relative ouch! - 393 baht. Bus 12 baht then 39 baht, Tuk Tuk 20 baht, Water 15 baht, lighter 10 baht Dinner: potato salad 40 baht, fruit salad 60 baht, small chang beer 40 baht. TOTAL: 888 baht / 17.76 pounds
Best thing: Defo the monkeys and also the grand palace with the fesitival and the kids.
Worst thing: Just a loooong journey considering 'rapid' and more expensive.
Wow what a cool day so far. I woke up earlier this morning than the alarm was set for so I left at 8am to catch a tuk tuk to the station hoping to leave on the earlier 8.35 to Lompuri, land of the monkeys as a pit stop on the way to Sukothai. True to Thai form - (as I'm quickly discovering puncuality is the exeption rather than the norm) - it left over half an hour late but was only 20 baht so can't really complain! Journey took 40 minutes and I was very reliant on others to a) get on the right train and b) get off at the right stop! I'm feeling good going off on my own, but also its nice to know I will be meeting my friends again in Chang Mai soon. I just have this feeling I will be at full pelt to pack everything in and not fall too far behind because there is just so much I wanna do in this area and I dont wanna miss it by rushing off to Laos.
I set off on a mission once arriving in Lopburi. determined to see the important sites and maximise my time and experience here. I had done my homework and identified and familiarised myself with the important temples but lets face it all I was really interested in was the monkeys! After paying 50 baht to look around Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (directly opposite from the station) which according to Lonely Planet is one of the cities oldest, and was the largest monastry in Lompburis hayday. The main standing tower was quite pretty with lintels still intact and some ornate decoration. I walked up the road and passed Wat Nakhon Kosa (built in 12th century) which may have been a hindu shrine. It was rather funny as it had moss growing out of the top, looking like an ancient version of bart simpson. .
Continuing along the same road, I came to two of the most important places. The first, San Phra Kan I entered, and was obviously popular pilgramedge destination as many Thais were paying their respects to Buddha and burning various things that I have yet to learn of and understand. It was ver colourful and attractvie inside - in fact generally over here I see many more bold and bright colours which I like. When I came out, I saw the famous monkeys. I was a little apprehensive as I had briefly chatted to one english speaking couple who said they had tied to grab their camera, and another claiming someone they knew had got bitten! So I, er, appreciated them from a a distance, after removing my sparkly jewellery, fastening my bag securely, and gripping onto my camcorder and camera for dear life! I am fascinated by monkeys, hence my desire to visit Lompuri. Crossing over to the other shrine Wat Sam Yot, was a dangerous adventure in itself! - the little creatures were everywhere, scrambling, crawling, fighting, or just passing the time of day. They collected on street corners and upon deciding to cross the road, cars literally had to stop and wait for them. Approaching buses hooted in anticipation of them crossing and cars with wise locals apprached slowly around the bend in the road. It was also quite amusing as they would congregate and wait in groups, seemingly observing the traffic, and then cross at an opportune moment, like a crowd of school children.
Wat Sam Yot was literally amazing due to the actual temple itself in addition to the copious amount of monkeys resting or playing in its creveses and shadows. This was a fantastic site, and I took many a photo from all angles. This place to me equates with The Temple of the Emereld Buddha albeit in a very different way. So far, Emerald Buddha, Scuba Diving and this, Wat Sam Yok, have been my highlights, followed by the full moon party. But I had to get a move on as only a couple of hours until my onward train.
Walking up the road in the vague direction towards the palace I found an indoor market. I really enjoy shopping at markets and was pleased to pick up a pair of leggins for 99 baht which I have been looking out for in England anyway. The clothes here are on a par with the night market in Ayutthaya in terms of prices. Possibly a little less.
Continuining, I happened across the palace grounds. I couldnt believe it upon entering as a festival was in full swing which I had read was in February but thought what are the chances?! People - all Thais as as I could see - were milling everywhere within the grounds, music was playing, a couple of shows were taking place, there were loads of school children about and generally a happy summer carnival atmosphere (even though, of course, it was their winter, a fact that continues to amaze me in the soaring heat). Ayutthaya and to a lesser extent Lompuri, being central Thailand, I read, are prone to humidity and stickiness as well as rain but not much chance of that its not in season.
Sitting down at one point in the shade with my orange juice to have a little rest and cool off, I got into limited conversation (mainly in the form of giggles and gestures on both sides) with a load of Thai primary school children. They wear colourful attire in Thailand, dark bottoms but tops of all the colours of the rainbow in a silk like material to keep them cool. I was trying to explain that in England (which many hadn't heard of) it is snowing. They didn't get this either, as they've probably never seen the stuff in their whole life! It was one of those moments when you really feel like your experiecing the culture and not just observing it from a distance. I was no longer in a rush, this place was so lovely I was thinking I'd catch a later train anyway. I was a novelty in this place, I did not see many tourists / travellers / westeners at all (even though being in the palace grounds it was a tourist area) so in their eyes, I was a minor celebrity, they all wanted to sit by me and shake my hand, an action I instigated in a very english like way and which produced giggles every time. It was fun.
I eventually said my goobyes after a few photos, and many a handshake and smile. I saw a sign and clocked that the area I was in was the palace grounds and the ruins I had seen amongst the fetivities aactually significant places of interest. I thought perhaps I could make the 1 o clock after all as the next train wsnt til 5, and I would haev arrived quite late in Sukothia by myself with nowhere booked to stay. I also wanted a bit of time to chat and plan tomorrow if I only have one full day. So I wizzed around the museum, and looked about the grounds which were beautiful and colourful and in immaculate condition with many little quirky features, and although very tempted to stay, made my way back to the train station which didn't take very long at all. Being easier to ask directions than use my basic map ripped out of my lonely planet guide, fortunately someone recognised 'station' as for some reason, Thai's cannot read maps, or perhaps only English maps which would be more understandable!
Outside the station I bought a 30 baht meal and then a ticket for my ongoing journey. It was the rapid train so about 8 times the cost of an ordinary one, but needs must. Its still only 8 quid for a 600 K journey (what's that in mile again?!) and it gives me more time in a place I dont have much time in ;)
While I was waiting for the delayed train, I chatted with a couple from Belgium who also have the same plans as me so at least I have some company when making my connecting bus and possibly even finding accomodation / tuk tuk. Also recommended Tommys on Ko Tao for diving. I should get commission...
Bloomin fantastic day so far really really great. Think the palace festival will also have to go down as one of my most significant events in Thailand. Not bad, two in one day and Im not even in Sukothait yet...
I am writing this on the train. I am very very very glad to have brought my netbook along. a) it gives me something to do on long journeys b) it allows me to keep a blog much more easily and c) the girls are finding it useful too for photos and to chanrge lotties ipod! So thanks to my brother Ed for encouraging me.
I am debating how much information to put on this blog. I think I may start giving an overview of a place, sort of hard facts for those completely unfamilar but also to remind me of the context of places when I read this blog in the future.
Very pleased spent the entire 3 hours journey neatly putting all my photos so far and ones I want the girls took into neat folders in my netbook. Im organised really! ts s6 bizarre the only way I know the time is by looking at the time on my netbook then adding 7 hours. Also, I have no way of knowing which stop that station is - they write 'please do not put rubbish down the toilet but in the bins provided' but can't translate the stations stops to English! Help! ps yay the tiolet had toilet roll!!!
Bit daft Ive been turning food down the whole journey (its quite common on Thai trains for people to come on and sell food but always more expensive) but I realised it was free - I think Rapid is the equivalent of 1st class here or something!)
Sukothi means 'dawn of happiness'. How nice. Ok so Sukothai was the first capital of Siam, flourishing from mid 13th C to late 14th C. The Sukothai kingdom was viewed as the 'golden age' of Thai civilisation.' The old city contains 45sq k of ruins, which are one of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand. Its dynasty lasted 200 years and nine kings.
Well it was a loong journey all in all, 1 train (which arrived an hour late!), 2 buses, then 1 tuk tuk - but finally at 7.15 pm I am in a single room at 'Garden House' for the grand price of 150 baht. I am sooo glad I didnt hang around in Lopburi as there would have been no onward buses to Sukothai at that time but Lonely planet did not think to write that! I have two single beds - very hard matresses which I like - which take up 2/3 of the space but it is Thai style, bamboo walls, reasonably lit, mosquito net on the window, and a fan. (oh did I mention no electricity points but its OK I'm using one right outside my room and trailing it in.) There's a shared bathroom - little did I know there was only 1 shower - shared among 6 rooms! - so here I am, sitting in my towel STILL but I'm next in line! - trying to make use of my time as it's not like I can wander around dressed like this! There is world news on the TV downstairs so I am looking forward to chilling. I may wander into new sukothai and find a wireless connection over dinner. I really need an alarm clock too!
I wandered into New Sukothai - still dont know how to pronouce it - not much going on. Bought dinner in a kind of street market. Felt quite tired. Watched some trashy Thai soap is absolutely hilarious but the locals love it. Aproached 3 girls after the meal - only other westerners I could see - and we got chatting and I had a beer with them and basically exchanged travel stories. We arranged to meet tomorrow to tour old sukothai - which was good - but meeting at 8am - which is not so good! Suppose may as well make good of my day just worried as have no way of setting alarm and also have to check out by then too. Had another shower before I went to bed and tried to organise myself as much as poss as I have told one of the girls my room number so she can knock if I oversleep! Is now just gone 10.30 so gonna try and get a good 8 1/2 hours fingers crossed...
ps Ive got blisters and havnt booked yet alone know details about how Im gonna get to Chang Mai tomorrow night.. ah well.
Money spent: Tuk Tuk to station from PU Guest house 40 baht, baggage holding fee at station 10 baht, 50 baht entrance Wat Phra Si Ratana, Train Ayutthaya to Lompuri 20 baht (3rd class), Lunch (street stall outside station) 30 baht, orange juice from market 10 baht, black leggins from market 99 baht. Train - rapid 2nd class to Philamoluk - relative ouch! - 393 baht. Bus 12 baht then 39 baht, Tuk Tuk 20 baht, Water 15 baht, lighter 10 baht Dinner: potato salad 40 baht, fruit salad 60 baht, small chang beer 40 baht. TOTAL: 888 baht / 17.76 pounds
Best thing: Defo the monkeys and also the grand palace with the fesitival and the kids.
Worst thing: Just a loooong journey considering 'rapid' and more expensive.
17th Feb - Ayutthaya
Monday 17th Feb (full day Ayytuhaya)
Got a (relatively speaking!) good nights sleep on train - although the guy woke us all up at like 5 / 5.15am even though it wasn't due in until 6.05 and as it left late was obviously gonna be later than that (ended up being 6.25am). We had a quick turn around but got a bargain of a train to Ayutthaya for 20 baht each leaving at 06.40 form platform 7. Got a taxi to our accomodation for 40 baht between us, the lady is quite full on but I reckon a good buisness woman. The girls like the mod cons but personally Im quite happy without TV hot water and fridge. Swings and roundabouts.
Got out 11ish after having refreshing showers.
Wow what a hot hot hot day. We managed to rent bikes for 30 baht each from round the corner (until 9pm) and we cycled in the unbearable humidity to the main temples within the river circumfrnce in Ayyuthaya. They are all pretty cool. I'd say the most striking image was the gold buddha in the Grand Palace which was like 16 metres high and also the buddha encased in tree roots. We visited Wat Phra Ratburana, Wat Phra Mahathat, Wat Thamikarrat, cycled past Phra Ram, and then finally Wkihaan Mongkhon Bophit and the most photographed site in Ayytuhaya, Wat Phra Si Sanphret. Amonst the rubble there is a strong sense of history with all temples largely been burnt or looted by the Burmese. There was however a funny smell in the air...BO? Wasnt pleasant anyway! Reminded me a bit of the first time i went to Venice. Was hot and smelling but cool none the less.
We spent a long time in the cafe by the Grand Palace. Coming home we cycled through the park and pretended we were in the sound of music. Sad but true!
I spent a lot of money on fluids today.
In this heat Im not sure if I can be bothered going off by myself with my big fat backpack to Lompuri and Sukothai. I will decide later once having done some research.
The girls came back from their late lunch (which I didnt do partly as I wasn't that hungry, partly for budget and partly so I could go on the internet) and I went back out on my bike. I found a really cool temple which wasn't even in the lonely planet guide. It was very modern so probably didn't have the history to warrant a place amongst the great sites of antiquity that Ayyuthaya is best know for. It was called Wat Suwandararam and it was a great privaledge to witness monks chanting and meditating in the temple. At first I thought I was intruding, spotting them through the open doorway and and so I made to tip-toe away, but a monk beckoned me to go in. It was kind of mesmerising. They all knelt on the floor in their mustard coloured robes draped over the one shoulder. All had shaved heads, brown weathered skin and looked in their 50's. The temple inside was as beautiful as it was outside. I stayed for maybe 10 / 15 minutes before slinking away intending to get to another temple beofre it shut at 6. But I didn't actually get there in the end - navigating by bike on those crazy streets is not that easy! I nearly came off once as thier idea of concreting the floors is not the same as ours!
Back in the room, I showered and changed and we caught a tuk tuk to a night market where I bought a couple of cheapo earings and we browsed the clothes rails. It seems standard here for 3 pounds for a t shirt or 5 or even 7 pounds for a thin dress. I wonder if places like new look sales are now on a par with such places or these are overpriced by Thai standards. It is sometimes difficult to tell, in your quest to not be ripped off as a foreigner you do not want to rip them off in return by bartering too low.
We sat on a table by the river (we had absolutely no idea where we were which for me was unusual - I like to know EXACTLY whats going on!!) - and I had a very decent sized meal of fried chicken and rice which was also rather tasty. We realised it was approaching 9pm and we grabbed a tuk tuk in the hope that we could see some of the ruins lit at night (apparantly a sight to behold) before they got turned off. Alas, we didnt make it and I am quite annoyed at myself as its one of the main sites of Ayytuthaya and probably my only chance. But c'est la vie.
We went back to the room and went to sleep after doing a spot of reading and internet browsing. Its actually a 3 bed room which you can add a mattress to. I offered to sleep on the floor as two of the girls had offered the best beds in the train (lower bunk is better than higher as there is less light) and all seemed to have slept worse than me - a first if ever there was one!
Money spent: Train Bankok to Ayutthaya (commuter 3rd class, 1 1/2 hours) 20 baht, taxi 10 baht, breakfast / early lunch (ham, egg on toast and orange juice) 95 baht, 150 baht entrance to 3 temples, coconut juice 10 baht, coke 20 baht, fanta 16 baht, 2 large water and green pepsi (a mistake!) lunch snack and tomorrows breakfast 83 baht. 13 baht each wireless for all day until 11pm. Accomodation 200 baht (but TV fridge hot water and damn in air con!!) 30 baht 2 tuck tucks, 18 baht iced tea drink, 50 baht chicken and rice at night market, 50 baht on two pairs of earings. TOTAL: 765 / 15.30
Best thing:Seeing the ruins
Worst thing: Missing them lit up at night.
Got a (relatively speaking!) good nights sleep on train - although the guy woke us all up at like 5 / 5.15am even though it wasn't due in until 6.05 and as it left late was obviously gonna be later than that (ended up being 6.25am). We had a quick turn around but got a bargain of a train to Ayutthaya for 20 baht each leaving at 06.40 form platform 7. Got a taxi to our accomodation for 40 baht between us, the lady is quite full on but I reckon a good buisness woman. The girls like the mod cons but personally Im quite happy without TV hot water and fridge. Swings and roundabouts.
Got out 11ish after having refreshing showers.
Wow what a hot hot hot day. We managed to rent bikes for 30 baht each from round the corner (until 9pm) and we cycled in the unbearable humidity to the main temples within the river circumfrnce in Ayyuthaya. They are all pretty cool. I'd say the most striking image was the gold buddha in the Grand Palace which was like 16 metres high and also the buddha encased in tree roots. We visited Wat Phra Ratburana, Wat Phra Mahathat, Wat Thamikarrat, cycled past Phra Ram, and then finally Wkihaan Mongkhon Bophit and the most photographed site in Ayytuhaya, Wat Phra Si Sanphret. Amonst the rubble there is a strong sense of history with all temples largely been burnt or looted by the Burmese. There was however a funny smell in the air...BO? Wasnt pleasant anyway! Reminded me a bit of the first time i went to Venice. Was hot and smelling but cool none the less.
We spent a long time in the cafe by the Grand Palace. Coming home we cycled through the park and pretended we were in the sound of music. Sad but true!
I spent a lot of money on fluids today.
In this heat Im not sure if I can be bothered going off by myself with my big fat backpack to Lompuri and Sukothai. I will decide later once having done some research.
The girls came back from their late lunch (which I didnt do partly as I wasn't that hungry, partly for budget and partly so I could go on the internet) and I went back out on my bike. I found a really cool temple which wasn't even in the lonely planet guide. It was very modern so probably didn't have the history to warrant a place amongst the great sites of antiquity that Ayyuthaya is best know for. It was called Wat Suwandararam and it was a great privaledge to witness monks chanting and meditating in the temple. At first I thought I was intruding, spotting them through the open doorway and and so I made to tip-toe away, but a monk beckoned me to go in. It was kind of mesmerising. They all knelt on the floor in their mustard coloured robes draped over the one shoulder. All had shaved heads, brown weathered skin and looked in their 50's. The temple inside was as beautiful as it was outside. I stayed for maybe 10 / 15 minutes before slinking away intending to get to another temple beofre it shut at 6. But I didn't actually get there in the end - navigating by bike on those crazy streets is not that easy! I nearly came off once as thier idea of concreting the floors is not the same as ours!
Back in the room, I showered and changed and we caught a tuk tuk to a night market where I bought a couple of cheapo earings and we browsed the clothes rails. It seems standard here for 3 pounds for a t shirt or 5 or even 7 pounds for a thin dress. I wonder if places like new look sales are now on a par with such places or these are overpriced by Thai standards. It is sometimes difficult to tell, in your quest to not be ripped off as a foreigner you do not want to rip them off in return by bartering too low.
We sat on a table by the river (we had absolutely no idea where we were which for me was unusual - I like to know EXACTLY whats going on!!) - and I had a very decent sized meal of fried chicken and rice which was also rather tasty. We realised it was approaching 9pm and we grabbed a tuk tuk in the hope that we could see some of the ruins lit at night (apparantly a sight to behold) before they got turned off. Alas, we didnt make it and I am quite annoyed at myself as its one of the main sites of Ayytuthaya and probably my only chance. But c'est la vie.
We went back to the room and went to sleep after doing a spot of reading and internet browsing. Its actually a 3 bed room which you can add a mattress to. I offered to sleep on the floor as two of the girls had offered the best beds in the train (lower bunk is better than higher as there is less light) and all seemed to have slept worse than me - a first if ever there was one!
Money spent: Train Bankok to Ayutthaya (commuter 3rd class, 1 1/2 hours) 20 baht, taxi 10 baht, breakfast / early lunch (ham, egg on toast and orange juice) 95 baht, 150 baht entrance to 3 temples, coconut juice 10 baht, coke 20 baht, fanta 16 baht, 2 large water and green pepsi (a mistake!) lunch snack and tomorrows breakfast 83 baht. 13 baht each wireless for all day until 11pm. Accomodation 200 baht (but TV fridge hot water and damn in air con!!) 30 baht 2 tuck tucks, 18 baht iced tea drink, 50 baht chicken and rice at night market, 50 baht on two pairs of earings. TOTAL: 765 / 15.30
Best thing:Seeing the ruins
Worst thing: Missing them lit up at night.
Monday, 16 February 2009
Sunday 16th Feb - leaving Kao Tao
Sunday 16th Feb - leaving Kao Tao
Slept well and deeply inbetween the regular disturbances of loud and / or drunk travellers chatting or shouting outside my window! Lottie knocked for me at 10.30am and I got up, showered and packed feeling a lot better than last night. Before we left I saw and said goodbye to Atticus (my diving buddy) and Gee (my instructor) which I was glad about. We got a 'taxi' to the pier which wasn't very far at all and I would have been happy to have walked to save the 1 english pound each (! but very expensive for here) but not gonna be petty about it. Wandered around the port and posted my PADI paperwork off to Australia. Bought a pair of fake billabong shorts. Did a bit of sunbathing on the beach while the girls used my notebook in the harbour front cafe which had intermittant wireless. I managed to start downloading photos to my blog which is cool but didnt have enought time to actually do it after downloading the necessary software. I could do with sorting them out first anyway as the girls have some photos that I might like to use from their cameras.
I am struck by how long it takes to travel a short distance when islands and boats are in the equation. Public transport here is predictably slow and late! Our Lompraya boat (the more expensive option) was 'broken' so we were transfered to the songserm which makes me feel a bit sea sick and is about 3 quid more expensive and quicker than the boat. But of course in Thai fashion we were not offered any compensation you just have to let these things go. Shame though as it did look a lot nicer and I remember reading in the lonely planet or travelfish or somewhere that it was worth going on at least once for the experience.
The boat took quite a long time but it was nice because I sat outside in the sun and read my new book - a trashy 'diary of a married call girl' which the girls have all got through. We had just under two hours to spare at the train station after we made the connection on an overcrowded and shoddy but fun long jeep / bus / tram like shuttle (people were literally hanging off the back but they dont think to offer the two free seats in the front next to the driver!) Health and safety in this country is not the best! At the train station for example we had to step round permanent holes in the ground containing pipes or what not.
Anyway. On the bus we were all in good spirits and I think people must have thought basically we were a bit annoying and mad as we were talking about such silly nonsensical subjects as would you rather be a vampire or a werewolf...? (Inspired of course by the novel we have all read / are reading.) but you can imagine the impression given to strangers being unaware of the context....!
We found a street cafe and I ordered a spicy pork meal with rice with a 'little' bit of spice (accompanied by a very clear gesture.) Ok so I nearly died when I took my first mouthful it was so hot. Bless her, Lauren who had ordered a chicken meal offered to swap with me and I was sooo glad even though it defies human logic how anyone can actually eat that without suffering from asphixia. The milk i ordered wasnt what I expected either but a sweet, condensed milk that took a bit of getting used to. Lauren got fed up with her chang beer so we swapped.
I sat with the bags at the station until our (late) train arrived. The train already had proper beds made up with sheets. pillow and a curtain to draw and is generally pretty cool (actually literally, the girls booked air con which is like my worst nightmare so as I type I am sitting here with my fleece, pg bottoms, socks, and with my mums old coat to hand which she insisted I bring with my cold to dump somewhere, but which I have hung onto for occassions such as these!!
I did a lot of reading on the boat, and there basically are places I want to visit on the way up to Chang Mai that dont seem to be on the girls itinary but I think I would regret not going to while Im in the vicinity so it may be that we split up for a bit or I cut short my time in Ayuthaya to get a bit of a head start knowing they will overtake me. Basically I want to visit Lompuri (even if only for a couple of hours as its famous for monkeys and I love monkeys! - there are also places to store bags at the station and within walking distance of all attractions.) Also Sukhothai which lonely planet has as a hightlight of the country based on only 2 weeks in Thailand so seems a pretty pivitol place to visit. The only problem with this though is as I want to do more than them, even in Chang Mai, so in reality I don't know how easy or likely it will be to 'catch them up' - and I think that would be a shame as we have a laugh all together and it is far more enjoyabale, safer and cheaper to be with them. So have to see about that one. Something will have to give. I'm sure it'll work out somehow. Where there's a will theres a way!
Money spent: 16 baht bagel, 5 baht banana, 50 baht taxi, 150 baht pair of shorts, 50 baht chicken and rice, & condensed milk drink street cafe by train station, 14 baht large bottle water, 10 baht two pastry type things for breakfast tomorrow. TOTAL 295 baht, nearly 6 quid.
Most funny thing: I had a mad moment on the boat and started dancing to some music not realising one of the Thai male staff was standing literally right behind me. He offered me a 100 baht tip in jest. The girls who found it hilarious are now embellishing the story to such a degree I sound like a professional lap dancer or something. And are threatening to put as such on facebook...!
Worst thing: Not going on the Lomprayer express boat but having paid for it.
Best thing: Er, still managing to sit in the sun a lot on an otherwise wasted 'travel' day. Also actually having an overnight train (ie bed) rather than horrible bus.
Slept well and deeply inbetween the regular disturbances of loud and / or drunk travellers chatting or shouting outside my window! Lottie knocked for me at 10.30am and I got up, showered and packed feeling a lot better than last night. Before we left I saw and said goodbye to Atticus (my diving buddy) and Gee (my instructor) which I was glad about. We got a 'taxi' to the pier which wasn't very far at all and I would have been happy to have walked to save the 1 english pound each (! but very expensive for here) but not gonna be petty about it. Wandered around the port and posted my PADI paperwork off to Australia. Bought a pair of fake billabong shorts. Did a bit of sunbathing on the beach while the girls used my notebook in the harbour front cafe which had intermittant wireless. I managed to start downloading photos to my blog which is cool but didnt have enought time to actually do it after downloading the necessary software. I could do with sorting them out first anyway as the girls have some photos that I might like to use from their cameras.
I am struck by how long it takes to travel a short distance when islands and boats are in the equation. Public transport here is predictably slow and late! Our Lompraya boat (the more expensive option) was 'broken' so we were transfered to the songserm which makes me feel a bit sea sick and is about 3 quid more expensive and quicker than the boat. But of course in Thai fashion we were not offered any compensation you just have to let these things go. Shame though as it did look a lot nicer and I remember reading in the lonely planet or travelfish or somewhere that it was worth going on at least once for the experience.
The boat took quite a long time but it was nice because I sat outside in the sun and read my new book - a trashy 'diary of a married call girl' which the girls have all got through. We had just under two hours to spare at the train station after we made the connection on an overcrowded and shoddy but fun long jeep / bus / tram like shuttle (people were literally hanging off the back but they dont think to offer the two free seats in the front next to the driver!) Health and safety in this country is not the best! At the train station for example we had to step round permanent holes in the ground containing pipes or what not.
Anyway. On the bus we were all in good spirits and I think people must have thought basically we were a bit annoying and mad as we were talking about such silly nonsensical subjects as would you rather be a vampire or a werewolf...? (Inspired of course by the novel we have all read / are reading.) but you can imagine the impression given to strangers being unaware of the context....!
We found a street cafe and I ordered a spicy pork meal with rice with a 'little' bit of spice (accompanied by a very clear gesture.) Ok so I nearly died when I took my first mouthful it was so hot. Bless her, Lauren who had ordered a chicken meal offered to swap with me and I was sooo glad even though it defies human logic how anyone can actually eat that without suffering from asphixia. The milk i ordered wasnt what I expected either but a sweet, condensed milk that took a bit of getting used to. Lauren got fed up with her chang beer so we swapped.
I sat with the bags at the station until our (late) train arrived. The train already had proper beds made up with sheets. pillow and a curtain to draw and is generally pretty cool (actually literally, the girls booked air con which is like my worst nightmare so as I type I am sitting here with my fleece, pg bottoms, socks, and with my mums old coat to hand which she insisted I bring with my cold to dump somewhere, but which I have hung onto for occassions such as these!!
I did a lot of reading on the boat, and there basically are places I want to visit on the way up to Chang Mai that dont seem to be on the girls itinary but I think I would regret not going to while Im in the vicinity so it may be that we split up for a bit or I cut short my time in Ayuthaya to get a bit of a head start knowing they will overtake me. Basically I want to visit Lompuri (even if only for a couple of hours as its famous for monkeys and I love monkeys! - there are also places to store bags at the station and within walking distance of all attractions.) Also Sukhothai which lonely planet has as a hightlight of the country based on only 2 weeks in Thailand so seems a pretty pivitol place to visit. The only problem with this though is as I want to do more than them, even in Chang Mai, so in reality I don't know how easy or likely it will be to 'catch them up' - and I think that would be a shame as we have a laugh all together and it is far more enjoyabale, safer and cheaper to be with them. So have to see about that one. Something will have to give. I'm sure it'll work out somehow. Where there's a will theres a way!
Money spent: 16 baht bagel, 5 baht banana, 50 baht taxi, 150 baht pair of shorts, 50 baht chicken and rice, & condensed milk drink street cafe by train station, 14 baht large bottle water, 10 baht two pastry type things for breakfast tomorrow. TOTAL 295 baht, nearly 6 quid.
Most funny thing: I had a mad moment on the boat and started dancing to some music not realising one of the Thai male staff was standing literally right behind me. He offered me a 100 baht tip in jest. The girls who found it hilarious are now embellishing the story to such a degree I sound like a professional lap dancer or something. And are threatening to put as such on facebook...!
Worst thing: Not going on the Lomprayer express boat but having paid for it.
Best thing: Er, still managing to sit in the sun a lot on an otherwise wasted 'travel' day. Also actually having an overnight train (ie bed) rather than horrible bus.
Sunday, 15 February 2009
15th Feb - Last full day on Ko Tao
Saturday 15th Feb - Last full day on Ko Tao
I'm soooooo glad I bought tiger balm yesterday (thanks girls) I absolutely plastered it all over my numerous bites and it was such a cool relief. I had to keep reapplying throughout the night but slept for the first time in 3 nights which was fantastic. I do feel very very tired today so I am not going to rush to do anything I may watch my TV for a while and read my book in bed. Methinks this accomodation is the best I'll have the whole trip so may as well make the most of it. The girls are bored with beaches now but oh I could just do with some chilled time. I swear I was made for a warmer climate!
I was looking through the fish (terminology - sure there must be a better word - aquarian?!) book this morning. The variety of speicies is just astounding. I could really get into diving but unfortunately there isn't much scope to pursue this particular hobby in little old England so will just have to go abraod a lot he he.
Had breakfast in my wi fi place. Feel a bit sick this morning dunno why, so gonna treat myself to breakfast rather than bread from the local shop! Bacon and Egg on toast yum yum. Wrote an email to Jetair to see if I could stop off in India on the way home, and checked my balances. I am spending too much although I dont how how! It should get much cheaper now on in.
Read my book and sunbathed. Continued to feel a bit off. Not sure if fatugue or side effects of pill or sunstroke or lack of sleep or even something like decompression sickness from diving. Went out for dinner with the girls but felt like I wanted to be sick so tried to (mind over matter!) enjoy myself checking out the swedish beach party - a big stage on the beach and a LOT of swedes!) but ended up coming home early just felt quite shaky and nauseous. Hope to feel better tomorrow. Bit gutted was looking forward to a proper night out here as my time (and energy!)has been taken up with diving practical and theory.
Really need to figure out how to add photos.
Money spent: Breakfast (egg, bacon on toast) 60 baht, big bottle sprite 30 baht, dinner (barbeque chicken on squew and watermelon juice) 150 baht. TOTAL: 240 baht (4.80) Plus 8500 baht diving course / 170 pounds but not including that in my everyday budget!
I'm soooooo glad I bought tiger balm yesterday (thanks girls) I absolutely plastered it all over my numerous bites and it was such a cool relief. I had to keep reapplying throughout the night but slept for the first time in 3 nights which was fantastic. I do feel very very tired today so I am not going to rush to do anything I may watch my TV for a while and read my book in bed. Methinks this accomodation is the best I'll have the whole trip so may as well make the most of it. The girls are bored with beaches now but oh I could just do with some chilled time. I swear I was made for a warmer climate!
I was looking through the fish (terminology - sure there must be a better word - aquarian?!) book this morning. The variety of speicies is just astounding. I could really get into diving but unfortunately there isn't much scope to pursue this particular hobby in little old England so will just have to go abraod a lot he he.
Had breakfast in my wi fi place. Feel a bit sick this morning dunno why, so gonna treat myself to breakfast rather than bread from the local shop! Bacon and Egg on toast yum yum. Wrote an email to Jetair to see if I could stop off in India on the way home, and checked my balances. I am spending too much although I dont how how! It should get much cheaper now on in.
Read my book and sunbathed. Continued to feel a bit off. Not sure if fatugue or side effects of pill or sunstroke or lack of sleep or even something like decompression sickness from diving. Went out for dinner with the girls but felt like I wanted to be sick so tried to (mind over matter!) enjoy myself checking out the swedish beach party - a big stage on the beach and a LOT of swedes!) but ended up coming home early just felt quite shaky and nauseous. Hope to feel better tomorrow. Bit gutted was looking forward to a proper night out here as my time (and energy!)has been taken up with diving practical and theory.
Really need to figure out how to add photos.
Money spent: Breakfast (egg, bacon on toast) 60 baht, big bottle sprite 30 baht, dinner (barbeque chicken on squew and watermelon juice) 150 baht. TOTAL: 240 baht (4.80) Plus 8500 baht diving course / 170 pounds but not including that in my everyday budget!
Saturday, 14 February 2009
Saturday 14th Feb (Valentines Day)
OK so I woke up this morning with no less than 65 bites (mosquito? I dont think so - feel like a chain smoker there was so much mosquito coil smoke in my room all night) possibly bed bugs or even from yesterday while sitting on the grass with only a sarong and thin white trousers seperating me from the many irritating creatures. Makes it all the worse as I never even mananged to connect.) ANYWAY they seem focused on the two areas in a nice little path from my butt cheeks to my knees. Extremely itchy and rather unattractive!
However, depite that AND having to wake up at the ridiculously early time of 6.15am to go for an early dive, I've had a fab day and am now a fully fledged Open Water Scuba Diver! Wahay! The dive was really cool although I would have liked to go down for longer. We did the maximum 18 metres on both dives. We saw trigger fish, eels bat fish amongst others. I thought the parrot fish were incredibly pretty and also we saw Titan Triggerfish which apparantly are known to attack divers when defending their nest. Other cool ones were two Moray eels together (the instructor said he hadnot seen two together in this region before) and blue-ringed angle fish. We also saw honeycomb grouper, trevellies, yellow back fuesellier, guppies, butterfly fish, aemone fish, sergeant major, moon wrase, rabbit fish, sea cucumbers, barracuda, potatoe grouper, long finned banner fish, bat fish. I am starting to really relax and enjoy it now - basically my control freak nature makes me worry the equipment will malfunction or something and its getting to trust that the regulator etc does do what its supposed to! I am still debating what to do about my advanced - at the end of the day i dont need the qualification but its a good way to do more diving and more depth gives more choice of dive. I'm so pleased we were on this island long enough for me to do as as this part of the trip was pre booked by the girls before I had even arrived. I will really really miss it here its jusy my sort of place I just love the vibe and mellow atmosphere.
We finished the PADI course with the exam (I got something like 90 something percent) by 2pm (even did it over a bar lunch!) so spent the afternoon on the beach but is sooooo hot am quite enjoying catching up with my online activities in a rather trendy beach front bar. Finally managed to text Gran and sent Mum my second text since being here.
Managed to spend a good 3 1/2 hours on the wireless and in the shade. I think my bites may be termites or giant ants. They are extremely nasty, quite big, and itch like crazy.
I had a shower (seem to be having 3 a day just to cool off!) and we headed out for food although I think I could happily have fallen asleep. On the way I found another bargain top for 150 baht a nice bright pink colour. Thats what I like about over here i have lots of bold colours to choose from.
Felt really hungry but I lost my appetite upon ordering my burger and chips with orange juice for dinner (180 baht) which was possibly the least romantic place on the island considering its valentines day! - and bought a Mojito in the same place I was in earlier for 80 baht - valentines day special. Got chatting to a guy who was repeating horror stories from the full moon party. Fortunately we got off quite lightly. The bar staff gave us all a red rose - aw ;) Had a giggle with Lottie and Lauren on the way home - Emily had already left as was falling asleep. My camera memory is full so have to sort that out tomorrow and do some hand washing too while we're in one placxe long enough fir it to dry...
Im quite into a book too at the moment is 'My sisters Keeper' by Jodi Picoult. About a girl who sues her parents for righs to her own body as she was deigned and born to help her sister with leukemia survive.
I really need to learn how to upload photos. Happy Valentines Day all ;)
Money spent: 50 baht lunch (noodles with vegetables) Vanilla mikshake in beach front wi fi bar 40 baht chang beer wi fi bar 50 baht, dinner (burger chips and orange juice, 180 baht, Tiger balm 55 baht, Mojoto cocktail 80 baht top 150 baht. TOTAL: 605 baht / 12.10 quid
Best thing: Being a certified Open Water Diver ;)
Worst thing: Itches and appearance of all my bites.
OK so I woke up this morning with no less than 65 bites (mosquito? I dont think so - feel like a chain smoker there was so much mosquito coil smoke in my room all night) possibly bed bugs or even from yesterday while sitting on the grass with only a sarong and thin white trousers seperating me from the many irritating creatures. Makes it all the worse as I never even mananged to connect.) ANYWAY they seem focused on the two areas in a nice little path from my butt cheeks to my knees. Extremely itchy and rather unattractive!
However, depite that AND having to wake up at the ridiculously early time of 6.15am to go for an early dive, I've had a fab day and am now a fully fledged Open Water Scuba Diver! Wahay! The dive was really cool although I would have liked to go down for longer. We did the maximum 18 metres on both dives. We saw trigger fish, eels bat fish amongst others. I thought the parrot fish were incredibly pretty and also we saw Titan Triggerfish which apparantly are known to attack divers when defending their nest. Other cool ones were two Moray eels together (the instructor said he hadnot seen two together in this region before) and blue-ringed angle fish. We also saw honeycomb grouper, trevellies, yellow back fuesellier, guppies, butterfly fish, aemone fish, sergeant major, moon wrase, rabbit fish, sea cucumbers, barracuda, potatoe grouper, long finned banner fish, bat fish. I am starting to really relax and enjoy it now - basically my control freak nature makes me worry the equipment will malfunction or something and its getting to trust that the regulator etc does do what its supposed to! I am still debating what to do about my advanced - at the end of the day i dont need the qualification but its a good way to do more diving and more depth gives more choice of dive. I'm so pleased we were on this island long enough for me to do as as this part of the trip was pre booked by the girls before I had even arrived. I will really really miss it here its jusy my sort of place I just love the vibe and mellow atmosphere.
We finished the PADI course with the exam (I got something like 90 something percent) by 2pm (even did it over a bar lunch!) so spent the afternoon on the beach but is sooooo hot am quite enjoying catching up with my online activities in a rather trendy beach front bar. Finally managed to text Gran and sent Mum my second text since being here.
Managed to spend a good 3 1/2 hours on the wireless and in the shade. I think my bites may be termites or giant ants. They are extremely nasty, quite big, and itch like crazy.
I had a shower (seem to be having 3 a day just to cool off!) and we headed out for food although I think I could happily have fallen asleep. On the way I found another bargain top for 150 baht a nice bright pink colour. Thats what I like about over here i have lots of bold colours to choose from.
Felt really hungry but I lost my appetite upon ordering my burger and chips with orange juice for dinner (180 baht) which was possibly the least romantic place on the island considering its valentines day! - and bought a Mojito in the same place I was in earlier for 80 baht - valentines day special. Got chatting to a guy who was repeating horror stories from the full moon party. Fortunately we got off quite lightly. The bar staff gave us all a red rose - aw ;) Had a giggle with Lottie and Lauren on the way home - Emily had already left as was falling asleep. My camera memory is full so have to sort that out tomorrow and do some hand washing too while we're in one placxe long enough fir it to dry...
Im quite into a book too at the moment is 'My sisters Keeper' by Jodi Picoult. About a girl who sues her parents for righs to her own body as she was deigned and born to help her sister with leukemia survive.
I really need to learn how to upload photos. Happy Valentines Day all ;)
Money spent: 50 baht lunch (noodles with vegetables) Vanilla mikshake in beach front wi fi bar 40 baht chang beer wi fi bar 50 baht, dinner (burger chips and orange juice, 180 baht, Tiger balm 55 baht, Mojoto cocktail 80 baht top 150 baht. TOTAL: 605 baht / 12.10 quid
Best thing: Being a certified Open Water Diver ;)
Worst thing: Itches and appearance of all my bites.
13th Feb - 4th day Ko Tao (2nd day diving course)
Friday 13th
Well I dont know about dreaming but I didnt get a wink of sleep. Partly because was too hot and partly concious of bites and party who knows why?! It seems quite apt considering exactly one week ago I would have been waiting for my baggage at Bankok airport. Seems I have done a lot since then.
Oh my word diving was complety awesome. We did theory in the morning - chapters 3 and 4 and doing the tests. Then this afternoon we set off on the boat at midday. The girls came too to snorkel which was really nice as well as ants friends (he's my diving buddy - I have decided to call him this as I have trouble remembering his name!) We went to Japanese Garden in the morning and Twins in the afternoon. The second open water dive was the best - we went to 7 and a half meters and already the difference is tangible - we saw bigger fish and a much greater variety, fish were below and above as well as around and I thought the giant cucumbers were really funny (attached to the coral.) The only fish that could have attacked divers would only do so when protecting their nest. It was quite big. I managed to swim around at depth without my goggles which is a mandatory skill and I have kept my potential panic under control! I had problems with my ears not equalising at the first descent, but other than that no real problems. It was a lovely afternoon - one of my best yet since being in Thailand. Apparantly you do not have to do your advanced all in one go - mny divers do their 'deep water' which allows them to dive at more interesting sites (basically the deeper the better.) You can also do 3 of the modules required for advance which gives you a seperate 'adventure diver' qualification which sounds quite cool! I have to do my homework to find out how much the full advanced is at Ko Phi Phi which I have definately decided I am going to at the end, or how much more it would cost if I got them all seperately. I dont really know why I want my advanced but I really enjoy diving and you can specialise in photography, navigation etc. The compulsary modules for advanced are buoancy and deep.
I am pretty knackered but brown and happy. I want to check out the internet now as am concious havnt been in much contact but havce either been busy or recovering from sleepless nights and needing to chill.
OK that was crap spent another wasted hour still cant connect still havnt published any of this blog or contacted my family. Must do tomorrow when PADI course over. And also I realised it is valentines day. Should be cool to spend it on Ko Tao. Did some more PADI homework and went out to a very popular indian on the beach front. I shared a naan and rice with Emily and had my own korma and am completely stuffed! Was very nice but more spicy than back home so hope doesnt interfere with my diving. On the way I saw a rail of bargain clothes and got a cool beach top for 100 baht (2 quid!) Will wear tomorrow on the boat as a bit dusty anyway.
Peeling more but getting comments now about my tan. Not bad in a week. Eli will be impressed. Am having a ball I love it here so much.
Very tired. Saw Atticus (first time Ive rememvbered his name!) in internet cafe on way home so we walked back together. We have very early start tomorrow - 6.30am leaving for the boat.I had a shower and am sitting under the fan as I type this to cool off. I have taken a nytol and opened a window burnt a coil and asked Atticus to have his TV quieter so hoping for a better nights sleep ;) I always sleep really well on the nytol it knocks me out. Bed time ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Money spent: Accomodation free, Lunch 60 baht, donut from lady 20 baht, dinner 265 baht (chicken korma curry and orange juice) coke (should last 2 days) and tomorrow bread breakfast 62 baht, clothes 100 baht. TOTAL: 507 baht (10.14)
Best thing: All day diving and indian in eve.
Worst thing: No sleep and getting bitten trying to connect to internet up the hill (which didnt work!).
Well I dont know about dreaming but I didnt get a wink of sleep. Partly because was too hot and partly concious of bites and party who knows why?! It seems quite apt considering exactly one week ago I would have been waiting for my baggage at Bankok airport. Seems I have done a lot since then.
Oh my word diving was complety awesome. We did theory in the morning - chapters 3 and 4 and doing the tests. Then this afternoon we set off on the boat at midday. The girls came too to snorkel which was really nice as well as ants friends (he's my diving buddy - I have decided to call him this as I have trouble remembering his name!) We went to Japanese Garden in the morning and Twins in the afternoon. The second open water dive was the best - we went to 7 and a half meters and already the difference is tangible - we saw bigger fish and a much greater variety, fish were below and above as well as around and I thought the giant cucumbers were really funny (attached to the coral.) The only fish that could have attacked divers would only do so when protecting their nest. It was quite big. I managed to swim around at depth without my goggles which is a mandatory skill and I have kept my potential panic under control! I had problems with my ears not equalising at the first descent, but other than that no real problems. It was a lovely afternoon - one of my best yet since being in Thailand. Apparantly you do not have to do your advanced all in one go - mny divers do their 'deep water' which allows them to dive at more interesting sites (basically the deeper the better.) You can also do 3 of the modules required for advance which gives you a seperate 'adventure diver' qualification which sounds quite cool! I have to do my homework to find out how much the full advanced is at Ko Phi Phi which I have definately decided I am going to at the end, or how much more it would cost if I got them all seperately. I dont really know why I want my advanced but I really enjoy diving and you can specialise in photography, navigation etc. The compulsary modules for advanced are buoancy and deep.
I am pretty knackered but brown and happy. I want to check out the internet now as am concious havnt been in much contact but havce either been busy or recovering from sleepless nights and needing to chill.
OK that was crap spent another wasted hour still cant connect still havnt published any of this blog or contacted my family. Must do tomorrow when PADI course over. And also I realised it is valentines day. Should be cool to spend it on Ko Tao. Did some more PADI homework and went out to a very popular indian on the beach front. I shared a naan and rice with Emily and had my own korma and am completely stuffed! Was very nice but more spicy than back home so hope doesnt interfere with my diving. On the way I saw a rail of bargain clothes and got a cool beach top for 100 baht (2 quid!) Will wear tomorrow on the boat as a bit dusty anyway.
Peeling more but getting comments now about my tan. Not bad in a week. Eli will be impressed. Am having a ball I love it here so much.
Very tired. Saw Atticus (first time Ive rememvbered his name!) in internet cafe on way home so we walked back together. We have very early start tomorrow - 6.30am leaving for the boat.I had a shower and am sitting under the fan as I type this to cool off. I have taken a nytol and opened a window burnt a coil and asked Atticus to have his TV quieter so hoping for a better nights sleep ;) I always sleep really well on the nytol it knocks me out. Bed time ZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Money spent: Accomodation free, Lunch 60 baht, donut from lady 20 baht, dinner 265 baht (chicken korma curry and orange juice) coke (should last 2 days) and tomorrow bread breakfast 62 baht, clothes 100 baht. TOTAL: 507 baht (10.14)
Best thing: All day diving and indian in eve.
Worst thing: No sleep and getting bitten trying to connect to internet up the hill (which didnt work!).
12th Feb - 3rd day Kao Tao (1st day diving course.)
Thursday 12th
Went to sleep quite late in the end as the TV next door was really loud ! - but got woken up as promised at 8pm by my dive 'buddy' who is staying in the next room to me.
Think I have quite a good deal here - my own room with refrigerator, bathroom and wireless if I can be bothered to treck up the hill (!) is equivalent to 8 pounds a night and is free with my PADI course. Its nice to have my own room particularly with all the reading and theory for the PADI course, Apparantly advanced is less technical I am debating whether to do this in the Similian islands at the end of my trip when I'm on the west coast but it is much more expensive apparantly.If we had'nt have booked return train tickets already I'd have possibly have stayed on to do my advanced I think. Bit the train is known to get busy after full moon party.
We ran through chapters 1 and 2 on the PADI video this morning, and went down to the 'private' beach (about 2 metres long!) to do the quizes for chapters 1 and 2, at my suggestion - of course! Tan has to be a high priority ;) My 'buddy' seems really cool and is also very excited about diving. We are the only two people on the course and our instructor is fairly quiet (well normal really but quiet compared to the piss heads I was expecting as diving instructors here!) but got on with him well and he's a good instructor from Australia (Artemis is also australian.)
Lunch we joined the girls in DDs where I had toast, egg and beans for 60 baht. The afternoon was cool we went off in a decent sized boat with sun deck - only joined by two swedish girls and another instructor (they were doing an afternoon - had done their PADI in Sarmel Sheik which still being cheap was more more expensive than Ko Tao) I have to admit I was slightly worried about the technicalities of diving - (what if I forgot to breathe through my mouth?!) - but got through all the skills OK although I really didn't like it when I had to let my mask fill with water and then empty it beneath the surface. I normally never and dont like to swim without goggles so found this hard.
The fish and underwater life was amazing - even when we were snorkelling over to shallow water (this was out confined water dive today where you do all the skills at a shallow level.) the fish were close enough to touch even though as I learnt objects are roughly 30 % further away than how they appear. I am learning other interesting facts and concepts about bouyancy and pressure, even though I am not very scientifically minded! I am looking browner and starting to peel on my left shoulder where I burnt before. I think my lotions are old.
Got back having enjoyed my afternoon, showered and met the girls on the beach briefly before the light went down. They took my netbook to try to connect to internet but one place wanted 500 baht for 14 days! Blimey!
I got bitten last night in the room so may light a coil this eve. Really enjoying being able to watch BBC World is weird thinking I worked there sometimes before drama school.
I love Ko Tao which I had more time to explore but for now the course is keeping me busy. I must revise now as its gone 7.30 and have two chapters to do and go out for dinner with the girls. Both emily and Lottie now have injured toes from the full moon party! - hopefully they can come snorkelling on the same boat as me tomorrow so they can still feel they are doing fun things.
We ate at a little place my meal was huge so am a happy bunny. Am really enjoying having my own room and being able to chill. Is quite big - had two single beds in so chuck my bag on one. Refrigerator is coming in handy. Was gonna do coil but dont have lighter. Feel OK.
Having now read chapter three of my PADI that horrible mask thing I struggled with today is normally scheduled to be done in your open water 2 dive - basically the 5th time you go under water not the very first! I have a feeling because its cheap here they do kinda pack it in. I wish we'd had a bit less skills stuff today so I could just get accustomed to being and breathing underwater before moving onto the more challenging stuff but hey I suppose at least the worst is over and I know I can do it even if I don't like it. Hope it doesn't put me off but itll be interesting to see if I dream about it tonight as that will show it's on my mind. There was also a moment where I felt I wasnt getting enough air even though I was breathing deeply. I had an overwhelming desire to surface and breath normally but didnt give in to it and was OK. I had to do the skill of taking my kit off and putting it back on underwater so that was a good distraction as sometimes I think problems can be mentally overcome.
There is an awful lot to learn on this diving course. I think I am being a bit of a swat as I read the chapters properly and want to understand everything. The other guys just skims until he finds the relevant answers! But I guess its different personalities.
Ko Tao is very chilled out in the evening. There seems to be a culture of bars playing movies. The main road is actually little wider than a pavement and is full of charm in the daytime and at night. I really like this island. My instructor says that many of the foreign workers here do not have visas. But apparantly to get a normal job youd be paid about 150 baht a day! Not thanks! Even that must be better than the recession in England....
Is good to have a few days under budget as had a lot of expenses upon first arrival. Methinks once in Chang Mai everything will be cheaper. It allows me to do fun things like diving and possibly rock climbing in Krabi and maybe even a skydive. I love travelling. Clients from work which seemed to dominate my life for 1 1/2 years barely enter my thoughts now. I am possibly putting on weight due to not working out but also feeling better with tan and sunshine. Only stress I have now is being bitten by the little buggers!
Money spent: (free accomodation) Lunch 60 baht, sprite in bar 20 baht, 7/11 bread and large coke 45 baht, dinner (Chicken and cashew nuts with noodles) 70 baht. TOTAL: 195 baht (3.90)
Worst thing: Goggle skills thing in dive
Best thing: Seeing the fish when snorkelling and scuba diving! So cool!
Went to sleep quite late in the end as the TV next door was really loud ! - but got woken up as promised at 8pm by my dive 'buddy' who is staying in the next room to me.
Think I have quite a good deal here - my own room with refrigerator, bathroom and wireless if I can be bothered to treck up the hill (!) is equivalent to 8 pounds a night and is free with my PADI course. Its nice to have my own room particularly with all the reading and theory for the PADI course, Apparantly advanced is less technical I am debating whether to do this in the Similian islands at the end of my trip when I'm on the west coast but it is much more expensive apparantly.If we had'nt have booked return train tickets already I'd have possibly have stayed on to do my advanced I think. Bit the train is known to get busy after full moon party.
We ran through chapters 1 and 2 on the PADI video this morning, and went down to the 'private' beach (about 2 metres long!) to do the quizes for chapters 1 and 2, at my suggestion - of course! Tan has to be a high priority ;) My 'buddy' seems really cool and is also very excited about diving. We are the only two people on the course and our instructor is fairly quiet (well normal really but quiet compared to the piss heads I was expecting as diving instructors here!) but got on with him well and he's a good instructor from Australia (Artemis is also australian.)
Lunch we joined the girls in DDs where I had toast, egg and beans for 60 baht. The afternoon was cool we went off in a decent sized boat with sun deck - only joined by two swedish girls and another instructor (they were doing an afternoon - had done their PADI in Sarmel Sheik which still being cheap was more more expensive than Ko Tao) I have to admit I was slightly worried about the technicalities of diving - (what if I forgot to breathe through my mouth?!) - but got through all the skills OK although I really didn't like it when I had to let my mask fill with water and then empty it beneath the surface. I normally never and dont like to swim without goggles so found this hard.
The fish and underwater life was amazing - even when we were snorkelling over to shallow water (this was out confined water dive today where you do all the skills at a shallow level.) the fish were close enough to touch even though as I learnt objects are roughly 30 % further away than how they appear. I am learning other interesting facts and concepts about bouyancy and pressure, even though I am not very scientifically minded! I am looking browner and starting to peel on my left shoulder where I burnt before. I think my lotions are old.
Got back having enjoyed my afternoon, showered and met the girls on the beach briefly before the light went down. They took my netbook to try to connect to internet but one place wanted 500 baht for 14 days! Blimey!
I got bitten last night in the room so may light a coil this eve. Really enjoying being able to watch BBC World is weird thinking I worked there sometimes before drama school.
I love Ko Tao which I had more time to explore but for now the course is keeping me busy. I must revise now as its gone 7.30 and have two chapters to do and go out for dinner with the girls. Both emily and Lottie now have injured toes from the full moon party! - hopefully they can come snorkelling on the same boat as me tomorrow so they can still feel they are doing fun things.
We ate at a little place my meal was huge so am a happy bunny. Am really enjoying having my own room and being able to chill. Is quite big - had two single beds in so chuck my bag on one. Refrigerator is coming in handy. Was gonna do coil but dont have lighter. Feel OK.
Having now read chapter three of my PADI that horrible mask thing I struggled with today is normally scheduled to be done in your open water 2 dive - basically the 5th time you go under water not the very first! I have a feeling because its cheap here they do kinda pack it in. I wish we'd had a bit less skills stuff today so I could just get accustomed to being and breathing underwater before moving onto the more challenging stuff but hey I suppose at least the worst is over and I know I can do it even if I don't like it. Hope it doesn't put me off but itll be interesting to see if I dream about it tonight as that will show it's on my mind. There was also a moment where I felt I wasnt getting enough air even though I was breathing deeply. I had an overwhelming desire to surface and breath normally but didnt give in to it and was OK. I had to do the skill of taking my kit off and putting it back on underwater so that was a good distraction as sometimes I think problems can be mentally overcome.
There is an awful lot to learn on this diving course. I think I am being a bit of a swat as I read the chapters properly and want to understand everything. The other guys just skims until he finds the relevant answers! But I guess its different personalities.
Ko Tao is very chilled out in the evening. There seems to be a culture of bars playing movies. The main road is actually little wider than a pavement and is full of charm in the daytime and at night. I really like this island. My instructor says that many of the foreign workers here do not have visas. But apparantly to get a normal job youd be paid about 150 baht a day! Not thanks! Even that must be better than the recession in England....
Is good to have a few days under budget as had a lot of expenses upon first arrival. Methinks once in Chang Mai everything will be cheaper. It allows me to do fun things like diving and possibly rock climbing in Krabi and maybe even a skydive. I love travelling. Clients from work which seemed to dominate my life for 1 1/2 years barely enter my thoughts now. I am possibly putting on weight due to not working out but also feeling better with tan and sunshine. Only stress I have now is being bitten by the little buggers!
Money spent: (free accomodation) Lunch 60 baht, sprite in bar 20 baht, 7/11 bread and large coke 45 baht, dinner (Chicken and cashew nuts with noodles) 70 baht. TOTAL: 195 baht (3.90)
Worst thing: Goggle skills thing in dive
Best thing: Seeing the fish when snorkelling and scuba diving! So cool!
11th Feb - 2nd day Ko Tao
Wednesday 11th
Woke up feeling OK. Very nice weather. Showered packed and got in taxi to ferry which took forever to leave. Supposed to leave at 12.30. As we waited I checked out the various diving courses. Basically if you do the PADI course its 8500 baht with free accomodation for 5 nights and I get my own room which will be great.
Most of the day was taken up catching the ferry which left an hour late. We were all a bit tired and grumpy from not much sleep after full moon party.
Did decide on Tommys as I had free accomodation for 5 nights thrown in with my PADI dive so a total of 8500 (about 170 quid - absolute bargain its like the chapest place in the world to dive!) and the girls got a room between them for 500 baht so they were happy as an actual structure rather than a wooden bungalow!
Have to say when I saw the room and the view I could happily have moved on - I havnt been here long enought to appreciate a solid structure ad kinda had my heart set on a beach front bungalow or something of that nature as out accom in Ko Pang Yang was also not on the beach - but the girls were happy so I was happy and later was glad for our choice.
Ate at DD's close by - we are basically situated right at the end of the most popular beach on this island. We were so hungry (it was gone 5pm and I had had nothing to eat all day) but we could see the sunset even though there were lots of flies around for some reason. Had sweet and sour chicken and rice which was nice but not big enough! Went back to room early as had to read chapters 1 and 2 ahead of course tomorrow. Found it hard to take in as was so tired. Went up to base so could connect to wireless (funny how rooms are advertised as having wireless but you cant actually access if from your room or reception, or anywhere within hopping distance!). A little Thai boy was obviously fascinated by my little netbook and the manager kept making chit chat. I sat at the only take which I had the impression wasnt normally used by the average punter. I would have sat on the grass but it was dark. Took a few attempts to connect then was very slow. Concious havn't contacted family or anyone much since arriving. I tried to text Mum and Gran through a free texting service I had found but it doenst work out here I can only presume. I did manage to update my status on facebook but little else because wasn't responding much. I noticed Dad had added me as a friend on facebook which made me laugh but is cool. Is it this netbook that is causing problems? I'm not sure. Gave up, did Chapter 1 questions for course and had an early night.
Worst thing: Much of day was taken up travelling to Ko Tao
Best thing: Arriving at Ko Tao. Can tell I'm going to like it.
Money spent: (free accomodation) 25 baht water, paid lottie cuppa tea 30 Baht 7/11 bread for breakfast and lipton 52 baht, dinner (sweet and sour chicken) 150 baht TOTAL: 257 baht (5.14)
Woke up feeling OK. Very nice weather. Showered packed and got in taxi to ferry which took forever to leave. Supposed to leave at 12.30. As we waited I checked out the various diving courses. Basically if you do the PADI course its 8500 baht with free accomodation for 5 nights and I get my own room which will be great.
Most of the day was taken up catching the ferry which left an hour late. We were all a bit tired and grumpy from not much sleep after full moon party.
Did decide on Tommys as I had free accomodation for 5 nights thrown in with my PADI dive so a total of 8500 (about 170 quid - absolute bargain its like the chapest place in the world to dive!) and the girls got a room between them for 500 baht so they were happy as an actual structure rather than a wooden bungalow!
Have to say when I saw the room and the view I could happily have moved on - I havnt been here long enought to appreciate a solid structure ad kinda had my heart set on a beach front bungalow or something of that nature as out accom in Ko Pang Yang was also not on the beach - but the girls were happy so I was happy and later was glad for our choice.
Ate at DD's close by - we are basically situated right at the end of the most popular beach on this island. We were so hungry (it was gone 5pm and I had had nothing to eat all day) but we could see the sunset even though there were lots of flies around for some reason. Had sweet and sour chicken and rice which was nice but not big enough! Went back to room early as had to read chapters 1 and 2 ahead of course tomorrow. Found it hard to take in as was so tired. Went up to base so could connect to wireless (funny how rooms are advertised as having wireless but you cant actually access if from your room or reception, or anywhere within hopping distance!). A little Thai boy was obviously fascinated by my little netbook and the manager kept making chit chat. I sat at the only take which I had the impression wasnt normally used by the average punter. I would have sat on the grass but it was dark. Took a few attempts to connect then was very slow. Concious havn't contacted family or anyone much since arriving. I tried to text Mum and Gran through a free texting service I had found but it doenst work out here I can only presume. I did manage to update my status on facebook but little else because wasn't responding much. I noticed Dad had added me as a friend on facebook which made me laugh but is cool. Is it this netbook that is causing problems? I'm not sure. Gave up, did Chapter 1 questions for course and had an early night.
Worst thing: Much of day was taken up travelling to Ko Tao
Best thing: Arriving at Ko Tao. Can tell I'm going to like it.
Money spent: (free accomodation) 25 baht water, paid lottie cuppa tea 30 Baht 7/11 bread for breakfast and lipton 52 baht, dinner (sweet and sour chicken) 150 baht TOTAL: 257 baht (5.14)
10th Feb - (day 4) Full Moon Party, Ko Pang Yang
Tuesday 10th
Got up late, felt tired had shower and headed to beach. Ate my pastry for breakfast and had vanilla milkshake for lunch. Dozed on sun chairs but very uncomfortable with just sarong. Nice weather nice breeze. Fininshed 2nd vampire book. Dressed for full moon party Hope its good and I make it through the night and we dont all get seperated! Lazy holiday day really. Looking forward to Ko Tao.
Oh my goodness what a mental night. Even the jeep ride was an event, with a bunh of loud aussies and met a couple of nice canadian girls. We'd all decanted out alcohol into an empty plastic water bottle. The girls had spirit mixers and I had bought a half bottle of white wine which I diluted with sprite. It lasted me the whole night as intended. I did have a couple of small beers firs though. When we arrived, we paid 100 baht to get in and instantly met a german guy lottie and lauren knew where we got some illuminous designs painted on our skin. or in Lotties case, top! We went down the the beach and I honestly dont think I ever saw anything like it. The entire beach was full of people, a mass, a swarm of bodies as far as you could see. There was a really exciting atmosphere. Some people literally had paint all over them and I wished I had bought some glitter or made a bit more of an effort rather than my 3/4 length jeans and old top. We danced on various platforms and it was fairly humid so basically we were all sweaty betties. Various games ensured with guys trying to pull but mostly it was just a bunch of party-goers wanting to have a good time and dance the night away. It was awesome being outside. When I went down to the front for a break it was a bit mingin seeing line of blokes backs obviously peeing in the water. Cant really say I blame them it was a bit of a mission to get to a loo but I was glad I wasn't swimming on THAT beach tomorrow! We stayed at one place for quite a long time, and decided to walk along the beach, which is when we lost Emily. As Lottie and I were looking for her, I found Pan but beyond the hi's there wasnt really much more to say! Earlier we had arranged a meeting point should we lose each other which was quite probable at some point. However thats when Lottie started to feel sick and we hung around the meeting point for a while. We met a couple of lovely people that were really looking after Lottie and who I had met on that platform earlier in the evening (he had givine me his red flashing horns which I danced with.) I went for a walk as Lottie was just going to sit there for the remainder of the night (Lauren had gone off with a bloke at this point) Haad Rin was easily the biggest resort on the island. There were loads of shops, cafes, bars, clubs and I could see the attraction for travellers. I was very hungry and bought a sausage for 20 baht and found a 7/11 and bought my sultana loaf for 18 baht. I delberately didnt come with much money as I have been shocked recently at how much everything has cost. I am way over budget at the momebt but hope thatlll change as soon as we go north and then into laos and vietnam. I think the transport for this trip made a big dent, (it was booked through TAT which makes it expensive) ideally to make it more worth while I would have scooted off to the other coast before the big ride back up to Bankok but c'est la vie.
Anyway,. I enjoyed looking around. Went up and down the beach having a few dances along the way, and in the little high street and side streets full of stalls selling lethal ''buckets' for various prices. I wish I could have had my camcorder to capture the party - but I wanted to enjoy my night and so had come with minimal money in a money bag in my pocket and nothing else apart form my plastic bottle. Emily brought her digitial camera through which was cool. By the time I got back to Lottie Lauren was there too and so we walked along to the north end of the beach where it was a bit more chilled out. As soon as we sat down, Littie drew out attention to a couple in an ,er, how do I say this - 'compromising' position on the beach (sorry mum, dad anyone easily offended...im just writing about it!). As we started to figure out if is actually what we thought (surely not?!) it soon became apparant like some show as more people clocked on and joined the spectator crowd. It was just funny really and it was one of those things you thought you shouldnt really be watching but couldnt help! It was quite wel lit, in front of a bar, and the people had absolutely no concern for the people arounjd them. I think we counted 3 positions until the wolf whistles and cheers attracted their attention and the women got up to take a bow as they stumbled away still kissing. Only at the full moon party would something like that happen!
We got chatting to a guy who had literally arrived on the island with nowhere to stay and all his bags were at some unknown resort with people he had only just met. He didnt seem too concerned though!
As me and Lottie made out way back to the taxi pick up point, we passed so many bofdies either passed out or asleep on the beach. Some people were in kind of a mess. Lauren was really worried about Emily. We went in a crowded taxi with people sitting at our feet. We got back and Emily wasnt there. We all got into our big bed as emily had the key to lotties room. I went off to sleep really quickly. Emily returned to what seemed to be in good spirits. Basically, having lost us she spent time at the meeting point, but I think she had it wrong. On the way to get a taxi she stubbed her toe and and it was bleeding a lot so she went to the medical centre. Anyway, she then proceeded to have a very lound and lenghtly conversation on her balcony and even though I looked twice I was grumpy I couldnt sleep and she was being so loud!! I think once she got off the phone I must have drifted off. Love her really and she had a traumatic night so I'll fogive her ;)
Money spent: 30 baht water, 60 baht milkshake, 350 baht return taxis to full moon party. Dinner (Pad Thai) 70 baht, other drinks. Bought ferry for tomorrow 350 baht, entrance full moon 100 baht, cigarettes 60 baht, sprite 50 baht, sausage @ full moon 20 baht, bread 18 baht. TOTAL = 1108 baht (22.16)
Best thing: Full moon party
Worst thing: Didn't sleep well on beach
Got up late, felt tired had shower and headed to beach. Ate my pastry for breakfast and had vanilla milkshake for lunch. Dozed on sun chairs but very uncomfortable with just sarong. Nice weather nice breeze. Fininshed 2nd vampire book. Dressed for full moon party Hope its good and I make it through the night and we dont all get seperated! Lazy holiday day really. Looking forward to Ko Tao.
Oh my goodness what a mental night. Even the jeep ride was an event, with a bunh of loud aussies and met a couple of nice canadian girls. We'd all decanted out alcohol into an empty plastic water bottle. The girls had spirit mixers and I had bought a half bottle of white wine which I diluted with sprite. It lasted me the whole night as intended. I did have a couple of small beers firs though. When we arrived, we paid 100 baht to get in and instantly met a german guy lottie and lauren knew where we got some illuminous designs painted on our skin. or in Lotties case, top! We went down the the beach and I honestly dont think I ever saw anything like it. The entire beach was full of people, a mass, a swarm of bodies as far as you could see. There was a really exciting atmosphere. Some people literally had paint all over them and I wished I had bought some glitter or made a bit more of an effort rather than my 3/4 length jeans and old top. We danced on various platforms and it was fairly humid so basically we were all sweaty betties. Various games ensured with guys trying to pull but mostly it was just a bunch of party-goers wanting to have a good time and dance the night away. It was awesome being outside. When I went down to the front for a break it was a bit mingin seeing line of blokes backs obviously peeing in the water. Cant really say I blame them it was a bit of a mission to get to a loo but I was glad I wasn't swimming on THAT beach tomorrow! We stayed at one place for quite a long time, and decided to walk along the beach, which is when we lost Emily. As Lottie and I were looking for her, I found Pan but beyond the hi's there wasnt really much more to say! Earlier we had arranged a meeting point should we lose each other which was quite probable at some point. However thats when Lottie started to feel sick and we hung around the meeting point for a while. We met a couple of lovely people that were really looking after Lottie and who I had met on that platform earlier in the evening (he had givine me his red flashing horns which I danced with.) I went for a walk as Lottie was just going to sit there for the remainder of the night (Lauren had gone off with a bloke at this point) Haad Rin was easily the biggest resort on the island. There were loads of shops, cafes, bars, clubs and I could see the attraction for travellers. I was very hungry and bought a sausage for 20 baht and found a 7/11 and bought my sultana loaf for 18 baht. I delberately didnt come with much money as I have been shocked recently at how much everything has cost. I am way over budget at the momebt but hope thatlll change as soon as we go north and then into laos and vietnam. I think the transport for this trip made a big dent, (it was booked through TAT which makes it expensive) ideally to make it more worth while I would have scooted off to the other coast before the big ride back up to Bankok but c'est la vie.
Anyway,. I enjoyed looking around. Went up and down the beach having a few dances along the way, and in the little high street and side streets full of stalls selling lethal ''buckets' for various prices. I wish I could have had my camcorder to capture the party - but I wanted to enjoy my night and so had come with minimal money in a money bag in my pocket and nothing else apart form my plastic bottle. Emily brought her digitial camera through which was cool. By the time I got back to Lottie Lauren was there too and so we walked along to the north end of the beach where it was a bit more chilled out. As soon as we sat down, Littie drew out attention to a couple in an ,er, how do I say this - 'compromising' position on the beach (sorry mum, dad anyone easily offended...im just writing about it!). As we started to figure out if is actually what we thought (surely not?!) it soon became apparant like some show as more people clocked on and joined the spectator crowd. It was just funny really and it was one of those things you thought you shouldnt really be watching but couldnt help! It was quite wel lit, in front of a bar, and the people had absolutely no concern for the people arounjd them. I think we counted 3 positions until the wolf whistles and cheers attracted their attention and the women got up to take a bow as they stumbled away still kissing. Only at the full moon party would something like that happen!
We got chatting to a guy who had literally arrived on the island with nowhere to stay and all his bags were at some unknown resort with people he had only just met. He didnt seem too concerned though!
As me and Lottie made out way back to the taxi pick up point, we passed so many bofdies either passed out or asleep on the beach. Some people were in kind of a mess. Lauren was really worried about Emily. We went in a crowded taxi with people sitting at our feet. We got back and Emily wasnt there. We all got into our big bed as emily had the key to lotties room. I went off to sleep really quickly. Emily returned to what seemed to be in good spirits. Basically, having lost us she spent time at the meeting point, but I think she had it wrong. On the way to get a taxi she stubbed her toe and and it was bleeding a lot so she went to the medical centre. Anyway, she then proceeded to have a very lound and lenghtly conversation on her balcony and even though I looked twice I was grumpy I couldnt sleep and she was being so loud!! I think once she got off the phone I must have drifted off. Love her really and she had a traumatic night so I'll fogive her ;)
Money spent: 30 baht water, 60 baht milkshake, 350 baht return taxis to full moon party. Dinner (Pad Thai) 70 baht, other drinks. Bought ferry for tomorrow 350 baht, entrance full moon 100 baht, cigarettes 60 baht, sprite 50 baht, sausage @ full moon 20 baht, bread 18 baht. TOTAL = 1108 baht (22.16)
Best thing: Full moon party
Worst thing: Didn't sleep well on beach
9th Feb - 3rd day Ko Pang Yang
Monday 9th
Today was pretty cool. We had already planned to ire a jeep for the day, and I went at about 9am to sort it out. With a sense of freedom and independance of public transport or the hassle of taxis we set out to exlore the beaches on the other side of the island. First of all we stopped of at the waterfall Name where we scrambled down and then up again for about an hour. We only had flip flops on which out of necessity soon became bare feet. It was rather hot and sweaty work but pretty cool. Lauren then took a turn at the driving as we went down to a rather small and sweet beach - fairly empty but full of character. We gleefully stripped to our bikins and enjoyed the cool water until the annoying and as yet unidentified buggers started nipping our skin! We got out and I read my book (Im on the sequal now!) We didn't hang about long and headed up to the north beach, where we ate out lunch previously bought at Tesco (yes Tesco! Civilisation!) after being chucked off some sun loungers which were for hotel guests only. I uncomfortably sunbathed as I am rather sore from yesterday and was trying to cover the angry bits with various materials. I was wearing Laurens bright pink dress. I am already regretting leaving some of my clothes behind - in reality a couple of nice dresses would make all the difference and hardly add much weight or bulk. Lauren was lucky she had asked Emily to bring her out some stuff after experiencing life on the road. But I think its nice we can share clothes I guess after 2 months especially I will be sick at the sight of some of my stuff!
We spent a nice afternoon on the beach and then headed to the south beach where we sat and drank. I am gutted the last two places I have been to have not had vanilla milshake it is absolutely gorgeous!
Me Lauren and Lottie had a night time dip, with a bit of skinny dipping thrown in. After getting dressed we had dinner. I found it was much chillier tonight and the girls take the mickey that I feel the cold so much.
Dinner was pie potatoes chils peas and a treat I had desert - pancakes with ice cream. I am treating this and Ko Tao as holidays more and then will tighten the budget.
I was quite up for checking out Haad Rin while we had the jeep (the party where the full moon party will be tomorrow night) as itll be very diffferent with 10,000 people there. But Lauren was not feeling well so I think while I went to the loo they decided they didnt want to do that.
I am actually not so tired this evening. I seem to be tired when others are up for going out, and feel more hyper when everyone else is feeling tired! Oh well, it took us so long to get back in the end, what with stopping for booze and filling up with gas (we only put 2 quid in and it was way more than when we had started!) perhaps its just as well. There seemed to be a bit of a party atmos on the beach which I also would have been up to check out for a bit but nobody else wanted to and I suppose it is half moon tomorrow. Its funny when you are around people that are close friends, even though they do not do everyhting togehter, they still seem to have the same ideas about what they do and do not want to do. I dont feel an outsider as such but am concious they are a trio and sometimes have to remember that they are here together and Im kind of an extra. I am enjoying being with them though as nice as it is to meet randoms, I think it is nice to have that in addition to being with people you know and not as a substitute.
We drove back, and is was almost more fun than driving being in the back open part of hte jeep. You'd never be allowed to do that in england. When we hired out the jeep they didnt even want a licence only a passport! They mut have really relaxed rules here! The roads, are somewhat bumpy but it all adds to the fun
Gonna lie in tomorrow and do more chilling ahead of a heavy night,
Am really looking forward to diving on Ko Tao.
Lauren is not well. I also have been a bit worries as I have had lots of bites and had a symptom I had noticed before I was diagnosed with Malaria. But they seem to be sure there is no malaria on the island but I need to be more careful with dengue fever. I think my sun tan lotion and insect repellent with deet are a bit old.
Money spent: Breakfast and lunch from Tesco 120 baht, rent, jeep 250 baht, petrol 25 baht, watermelon drink 60 baht, water and beer 110 baht, dinner 320 baht wine and pastry for tomorrow breakfast 162 baht TOTAL 1047 baht / 20.94
Best thing: Scrambling on waterfall and sitting in open back of jeep
Worst thing: Having slightly odd tummy and not going to Haad Rin while we had the jeep
Funniest thing: Lauren making me stand up in the nuddy.
Today was pretty cool. We had already planned to ire a jeep for the day, and I went at about 9am to sort it out. With a sense of freedom and independance of public transport or the hassle of taxis we set out to exlore the beaches on the other side of the island. First of all we stopped of at the waterfall Name where we scrambled down and then up again for about an hour. We only had flip flops on which out of necessity soon became bare feet. It was rather hot and sweaty work but pretty cool. Lauren then took a turn at the driving as we went down to a rather small and sweet beach - fairly empty but full of character. We gleefully stripped to our bikins and enjoyed the cool water until the annoying and as yet unidentified buggers started nipping our skin! We got out and I read my book (Im on the sequal now!) We didn't hang about long and headed up to the north beach, where we ate out lunch previously bought at Tesco (yes Tesco! Civilisation!) after being chucked off some sun loungers which were for hotel guests only. I uncomfortably sunbathed as I am rather sore from yesterday and was trying to cover the angry bits with various materials. I was wearing Laurens bright pink dress. I am already regretting leaving some of my clothes behind - in reality a couple of nice dresses would make all the difference and hardly add much weight or bulk. Lauren was lucky she had asked Emily to bring her out some stuff after experiencing life on the road. But I think its nice we can share clothes I guess after 2 months especially I will be sick at the sight of some of my stuff!
We spent a nice afternoon on the beach and then headed to the south beach where we sat and drank. I am gutted the last two places I have been to have not had vanilla milshake it is absolutely gorgeous!
Me Lauren and Lottie had a night time dip, with a bit of skinny dipping thrown in. After getting dressed we had dinner. I found it was much chillier tonight and the girls take the mickey that I feel the cold so much.
Dinner was pie potatoes chils peas and a treat I had desert - pancakes with ice cream. I am treating this and Ko Tao as holidays more and then will tighten the budget.
I was quite up for checking out Haad Rin while we had the jeep (the party where the full moon party will be tomorrow night) as itll be very diffferent with 10,000 people there. But Lauren was not feeling well so I think while I went to the loo they decided they didnt want to do that.
I am actually not so tired this evening. I seem to be tired when others are up for going out, and feel more hyper when everyone else is feeling tired! Oh well, it took us so long to get back in the end, what with stopping for booze and filling up with gas (we only put 2 quid in and it was way more than when we had started!) perhaps its just as well. There seemed to be a bit of a party atmos on the beach which I also would have been up to check out for a bit but nobody else wanted to and I suppose it is half moon tomorrow. Its funny when you are around people that are close friends, even though they do not do everyhting togehter, they still seem to have the same ideas about what they do and do not want to do. I dont feel an outsider as such but am concious they are a trio and sometimes have to remember that they are here together and Im kind of an extra. I am enjoying being with them though as nice as it is to meet randoms, I think it is nice to have that in addition to being with people you know and not as a substitute.
We drove back, and is was almost more fun than driving being in the back open part of hte jeep. You'd never be allowed to do that in england. When we hired out the jeep they didnt even want a licence only a passport! They mut have really relaxed rules here! The roads, are somewhat bumpy but it all adds to the fun
Gonna lie in tomorrow and do more chilling ahead of a heavy night,
Am really looking forward to diving on Ko Tao.
Lauren is not well. I also have been a bit worries as I have had lots of bites and had a symptom I had noticed before I was diagnosed with Malaria. But they seem to be sure there is no malaria on the island but I need to be more careful with dengue fever. I think my sun tan lotion and insect repellent with deet are a bit old.
Money spent: Breakfast and lunch from Tesco 120 baht, rent, jeep 250 baht, petrol 25 baht, watermelon drink 60 baht, water and beer 110 baht, dinner 320 baht wine and pastry for tomorrow breakfast 162 baht TOTAL 1047 baht / 20.94
Best thing: Scrambling on waterfall and sitting in open back of jeep
Worst thing: Having slightly odd tummy and not going to Haad Rin while we had the jeep
Funniest thing: Lauren making me stand up in the nuddy.
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