With a dazzling hilltop castle as her crown and the emerald-green Ljubljanica River at her feet, Ljubljana is a princess in size (petite). But her pint size conceals a wealth of culture, sights, activities and good old-fashioned fun that would be the envy of a city twice her extent. And best of all, everything is within such easy reach – a mere stroll or cycle away. he princess, whose name almost means ‘beloved’ (ljubljena) in Slovene, is also a working girl. As the country’s political, economic and cultural capital, this is where virtually everything of national importance begins, ends or is taking place. Of course that might not be immediately apparent in spring and summer, when café tables spill into the narrow streets of the Old Town and street musicians and actors entertain passers-by in Prešernov trg and on the little bridges spanning the Ljubljanica River. - Lonely planet.
Accomodation: Alibi hostel, 13 euros per night shared dorm (winter prices)
Day 1; Sun 11th Rijeka - Ljubijana
OK so we got up and had another lovely little breakfast at 8am still on the island of Rab in Croatia, then hopped straight on a ferry to be on the mainland at 9am and in Rijeka by 11. We had a couple of hours to kill for the train (hadnt had internet for several days so ws unable to actually find out the train times) but we walked the short distance to town and wandered around and took some pics. Its a nice place but Im keen to leave Croatia and get on with our travels.
So, we ended up having our little own compartment and once again I am struck at how easy and classy it is travelling in Europe as opposed to India! It hardly feels like travelling, its too clean ha ha.
The journey itself was very pleasant as we passed through several rolling hills, and my impression of the country so far is a positive one, and it actually is reminiscent of Austria, in the cleanliness and the mountains and the style of the houses. Ro wasnt so impressed, but I was trying to take photos the whole time!
We found our hostel fairly easily from the train station. But we were sooo hungrz we couldt resist a mcdonalds first, my last one being in Rajastan (India) with Anne. Again, so easy to get info, I walked into the information and there were nice little printed timetables to all the popular destinations with the prices. It was so hard to find these things in India!
Once at the hostel we soon turned around and wandered around the city. I have to say, and Ive been to a fair few european cities namely from when I travelled europe for 6 or 7 weeks when I was 20, this place is one of my favourites for its character and charm. The river really contributes to this atmosphere, and many of the bars and cafes which seem to be a large part of Slovenian culture line it either side, with buildings of impressive architecture, modern art, weeping willows creating reflections in the water, and speckled lights creating a different kind of atmosphere as the sun went down.
There were some buskers in the town square playing some instruments I can barely descibe yet alone remember the name of! They were shaped like a flying saucer and played like bongos but created a gentle melodic sound, kind of meditative. While hanging out in the main square I just enjoyed taking photos of the surroundings and appreciating the sunset that looked as though there was a fire raging beyond the buildings.
Our hostel isnt that great - one internet everyone lines up to use and a fairly impersonal feel with as yet some unfriendly people! But well see.
Money spent: 40 (ferry) 94 Kuna (train) 4 euros mcdonalds, 13 euros dorm.
Day 2. Monday 12th Oct - Ljubijana
Sob sob its peeing it down here! But had a good nights sleep hurray! Woke up lateish, showered and chilled and ended up heading out to brunch with a couple of friendly French guys we got chatting to at the hostel as well as a Canadian guy in our dorm. La Petite Cafe / very apt! was one of the eating places recommended by our hostel which was not situated along the river but nonetheless evidently popular. I had am omlette and bread which I was very suprisedto find actually filled me up but true to form I was not content with my own meal but had to finish the hobbits too! David kindly paid and we headed out for some girly shoppping as it was getting rather nippy and Rozie did not have a coat! David soon got bored and headed back. To be honest the weather made the day a bit of an odd one, the plan was to sight see and visit the castle but I just couldnt really be bothered to do a lot so after popping into a couple of churches I also headed back to the hostel and caught up with my blog while Ro sorted out washing and such like. Ouch she paid 10 euros hard core traveller stroke hand washer she aint ha ha. Before they left David showed me his illustrations on his laptop which I thought were pretty damn good and Im thinking it must be nice to be able to pursue your creative side while holding down a good job. We actually had an interesting conversation about how he is doing the job and money thing first and then will turn his time and attention to his art. Theres a part of me that wishes I had done the same thing because while I dont really mind living cheaply it would be nice not having to be careful with every single penny all the time just to be able to do things and even then on a tight budget. But I also like the bohemian lifestyle and am so blessed in so many ways and have much more than I actually need especially compared to many people in the world.
Before dinner me and Ro bought our train tickets to Vienna getting them half price due to three days in advance and I had an impulsive buy in a shop near the train station. I figured I may need another pair of trousers in this increasing cold especially as we go further north.
In the evening we went to a free concert Dobimo Se Na Magistratu I found out about at the town hall near the hostel. It featured Aljosa Vrscaj on guitar and a student quartet who are some of the few musicans I have met with any dress sense! They had colour coordinated black and red costumes blending the traditional with the contemporary and looked extremely sharp and classy. I really enjoyed the entire concert (Mozart and Bach) but was particularly blown away with the guitarist whose nimble fingers moved so fast I pondered how it was humanly possible. He actually played for a full 40 minutes without any sheet music. He did strike me as a slightly nervous fellow though and me and my sister nearly had a fit of the giggles as he began by sitting there for what seemed an age in anticipated silence, stroking the back of his neck and staring at the floor and then starting the whole process again just as we finally about to start when someone dared to interupt his mental preperation by sneaking in late!
Starving by the time it was finished, I caved into the little sisters culinary cravings and ate in a Mexican, for me spending more money on a meal than I have all year! To be fair, it was an awesome restaraunt and not many places would make a feature of bold colours. The whole atmosphere was wicked and Icould see why it was recommended to me.
Money spent: 2 euros breakfast, 13 accom, 69 coke and 60 mars bar, clothes 33.84 thez gave me 10% discount ha ha, 29 euros train to Vienna. 10.80 splash out on food at yummy Mexican!
Day 3: Tues 13th - Castle and Postojna caves.
Oh boy Ro slept talked again in the night! It was a full dorm and with people coming in late and a girl getting up real early I cant say I had the best nights sleep! But got up and was ready by 8.10 so went on the internet until I left for the castle which we hadnt gone to yesterday due to the rain.
Unbelievable I walked all the way up the hill to the castle to find it wasnt open at 9 like the otherwise helpful and friendly receptionist at my hostel told me! and so rather than waiting an hour in the freezing cold, I walked all the way back down the hill, had a cappo, wandered to the market and had a pastry, and then huffed and puffed back up the hill again! To be honest I ws too tired to take much in of the 20 minute multi media presentation thing, with high tech 3D goggles baby and earphones, but the view from the top of the tower was fab. I got chatting to a guy who took photos and wrote for aviation magasines. Anyway there wasnt much else to see which was a tad dissapointing so headed back to the hostel to meet Ro who had decided on a lie in instead of my cultural experience!
So...Postojna caves....which we got a train to for 4.88 euros and then a free shuttle (alas only the one way due to low season) were awesome, impressive, huge, magnificent..and expensive! Fortunately we got the student discounted price of 16 euros (normally 20 ouch!!!) Heres the spiel...
The Postojna Cave system is the largest known cave system in Slovenia. There are longer caves in the world, but a visit to a cave such as Postojna deserves full attention due to the diversity of shapes, expansive cave areas, stalactite and stalagmite formations and water characteristics. What is especially noteworthy is that most of these various shapes and formations can be seen by every visitor, meaning tourists and not just cavers with special caving equipment. Well kept paths for tourists comprise the greater part of Postojna Cave, making it a "horizontal" cave. Thus a visit to the cave does not present any difficulties for most visitors.
I have to say it was awesome....it was large and impressive, with endless stalagtites and stalagtites but heres my rant...I want to be alone with my imagination in these vast caves not herded along with a bunch of Japanese tourists and wailing kids and gossipy women, along cemeted non-slip floors with handrails forming a bulldozed pathway through otherwise natural ragged and authentic phenomenum. Im definately of the natural explorer mentality....!!! We held back a bit at the back of the group to appreciate it in a bit more peace! We also rode along on a train, and beware holding expensive cameras as I had a few near misses where I was close to having my head wacked against a rock or saying a permament bye bye to my fairly recent and decent sony!
Back in Ljubijana, we ate in the extremely pleasant and typical Slovenian restaraunt Sokol near the town hall. As I had already spent a copious amount of money today, aughh! - I shared a slovenian national dish with our new canadian friend Graham, and then the three of us got a desert together yum yum. The main course was a black bendy Kravavica sausage with turnips and very bitty with what I dont want to think what! The local speciality desert gibanica sokol with poppy seeds, walnut, cottage cheese, and apples was also something I would not normally eat but loved the walnuts baby! Rosanna is a very bad influence on me, I am spending much more money on food than normal but I have to say it beats bread and cheese ha ha. The interior reminded me a little of Munich me and Ro went on years ago. Our waiter was very sweet and wore the authentic dress which added to the music and decor made it a very worthwhile visit. Oh dear Im enjoying eating out a little too much...!
Money spent, 1.20 cappo, 1.05 pastry from market, 3.50 castle tower, 13 euros accom, 3.80 sandwich, 1.40 cappo, 16 euros student admission to caves (yes!) meal 4.25 euros plus 1.05 wine plus 1.30 shared desert.
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