Mon 16th March - Travel from Don Det to Phonm Phen.
Today was another loooong travel day! We left the hut before 8 and paid for our way across the water. On the other island Nate bought us tickets to the border. At the border we bought more tickets to Phonm Phen. Basically it worked out more expensive than just buying an all inclusive from Don Det. Gutted!
HOWEVER because we were a last minute addition at the border, we got to ride in a car for an hour yippee oh the simple pleasures in life! One of the guys had a 10,000 kip bottle of whiskey which although strong, was a welcome swig. Or couple thereof. Apparantly the whole bottle was 10,000 kip. Unvelievable. Maybe its time to ditch the beer.
The journey itself was rather long but there were a few familiar faces which always makes things more enjoyable, including dutch guy Ruddy. Me and Nate got a seat together and listened to music for much of the way. Sometimes long journeys are good because they stop me being so manic!!!! It was very hot tho, again no air conditioning and they stopped at a place only 1 hour into the journey simply because they owned it and wanted the buisness - of course - so make the rest of the day quite a long stretch, but you start getting used to such things here.
We switched buses at some random place, where the Siem Reap lot were bunking for the night before continuing in the morning. However just as we set off, one poor guy realised his money belt containing his passport, cards, ipod photos etc basically everything important he had - had all dissapeared. We spent a good hour searching for it to no avail. Its fairly certain it was nicked. I gave him the measly remains of all the american currency I had left, but fortunately he was travelling with his partner so wasn't alone.
Things got more eventful aka annoying as we approached our final destination. Basically we alread really late due to the delay and there seemed to be some kind of set up with a guest house the other end 'Happys' ( I didn't feel very happy by this point let me tell you!) which wanted to charge a 10 USD a night. Anyway, the bus wouldnt take us anywhere else, it was late, I was tired, I was grumpy (when I get past a certain point, my mood irreversibly changes) and we eventually found a guest house in the centre after grabbling a tuk tuk between 4 of us. Or was it 5.
We had to find an ATM because neither me and Nate had any money, and then had some street food - chicken fried rice - at the nearby market which was actually really good. Was sooooooo hungry. I swear I am eating like a horse. I finished off Nates meal too because he hasnt recovered from his tummy bug. Shame hey.
Money spent: Travel 15000 kip (1.25), 2.5USD to border (1.86) 20 USD to Phnom Pen (14.81), 5 USD lunch and drinks (3.71) , 2 USD evening (1.50) . Visa 20 USD (14.81) naughty administration charges 3 seperate lots of 1USD (2.23) . Accomodation 2.5 USD (1.86). TOTAL: 42.03
Tuesday 17th March - Phnom Penh
Today we were shocked to discover it was already 9am when we looked at the watch - it could have literally been 3am (esp as so tired after yesterdays very long journey) but in a room without windows (prob the worst accomodation so far, 5 USD a night between us) there was just no way of knowing. I had to double check with my netbook to make sure! The room wasn't that great - the night before the shower hadn't worked for a while, it wasnt that clean, and noisy and bustly and in the city centre - it would have been Ok for me, I didnt really want the extra hassle of changing rooms but Nate def didnt want to stay there any more nights so we shifted. And now Im glad we did. We landed on our feet when we found a room near OK guest house 'with character' near the river - it doubled as a massage palour and possibly slighty dodgy! - but hey it adds to the fun. Our 'window' actually was an internal one with a very scant drape, so I hung my sarong up! Later on though, as we had a beer in the bar and chatted to the owners and some westerners who had helped them transform it from a crap restaraunt into a funky bar, - it is a completely legit place - no happy massages here! One wastern girl here who now loves here claims to make 2000 USD a month with 2 part time jobs which seems incomprehensible in Cambodia but there we go.
At the killing fields, Nate was chatting to the tuk tuk driver who said he aimed to make 5 USD a day on his tuk tuk job - ideally 10 USD on a good day and 15USD was really busy and the best he's ever had. Apparantly we were the only job he had had today - it kind of explains the hassle you get walking up the road from every tuk tuk driver alive - and only just went 14K out of town to the killing fields top give him his daily target (paying 7USD). This was a mass graveyard of approximately 17,000 men, women and children who were executed by the Khymer Rouge between '75-'78. There was a white memorial containing skulls and bones and old clothes.
It was quite a strange place - largely plaques explaining here was this here once stood that. But it did get me when there was a tree that was used specifically to flog children, and a mass grave containing the naked remains of women and children right beside it. Another grave contained the remains of victims with no heads. Another tree once had a speaker that was used to cover up the noises of torture. On the map it was clear that much of the site had not yet been unearthed so goodness know whats else is buried beneath the soil. It still shocks me that people are capable of such brutality and inhumanity. As nate said, how much energy and strenght and effort went into flogging someone to death - they did not use bullets, too much money. Heinous crimes are so hard to imagine but happen they did. It is good to visit such places and be reminded of such things as I find death always has a way of putting life into perspective.
Whilst there, I also popped into the local school to see about vounteering some time as I have seen poster displays of various charities and I really want to do someting for the community in developing nations. But it was not the orphanage I had seen advertised around town. I am still interested in doing some volutary work though, if I do extend my stay. I was surpised to discover at the killing fields, there were lots of children who spoke good english - well they knew enough to say 'take photo' and 'one two three cheese' and one even jokingly tried to remove my ring whilst kissing my hand. Little does he know its fake and a hand me down from my sister rozie, probalby worth less than half a dollar...
Now sitting in the bar linked to the accomodation where I am staying. Just beat Nate at pool, which he cant take because I didnt specifiy a pocket but I dont play by those rules! He already made me hit backwards from the line when I was allowed 2 free shots because he hit the white. Why when he does something wrong is it my disadvantage? I had to rebound and it didnt work! No fair ;)
Beers here more expensive. Only shame really. Otherwise like the rual areas of Laos, Campbodia reminds me of Mozambique.
Had a really fun evening playing pool with the locals and drinking beer. Nath's friend Miriam (who he introduced me to in Vang Vieng after meeting on a bus from the Thai border) turned up here. Basically after Vang Vieng she flew out of Vientiane and into Bankok where she parted with Sam (the other girl) and then came into Cambodia to go into Laos again which means buying another visa. Crazy crazy. It's weird thinking I last saw her in Vang Vieng which basically means that I have been with Nathan for nearly 2 weeks and my flight home is looming at a rate of knots.
Pool was really good fun, first of alI beat Nath and then I beat Miriam and then we played doubles and my team won (I plotted the black!) so got bought a beer. Of course it wasn't just fun because I won but hey it all helps....?! Beer's more expensive here than in Thailand or Laos. Suprising really.
This bar is really cool. Went out for a late meal with Nath and Miriam and had a very very nice spaghetti cabonara and we basically ganged up on Nath in a female kind of way. He says he is no longer the batman but is butter chicken. I told he's odd.....
We exchanged kip for US dollars with Miriam which is pretty cool because it helps us boh out. If you go to 4000 islands from Cambodia you can get stuck because there are no ATMs south of Pakse.
Money spent: Breakfast and tuk tuk and killing fields something like 8 USD. Im really losing count. Couple beers 3 USD. Gets confusing as me and Nate taking turns paying for stuff...ah well.
Wednesday 18th March - Phonm Pen.
Ok so dont compain about me writing this you didnt have to experience it...
Today want much fun at all. Up all night with tummy cramps and diorhea the spasms are so SO painful I literally have to stop whatever I am doing or saying until it passes. Which can be quite amusing for any onlookers. Nate says I look like I'm on drugs. I watched a movie on my laptop in the morning after cautiously eating some bread and butter. Then later in the day I ventured out with Nath to the central market as he has been planning on getting a camera through all of his travels. It was very busy and there are more cars on the roads than in Laos. There is more infrastructure in Cambodia methinks.
Have to say im not sure it was the best thing to do - venturing out - I had to literally stop every five minutes while I had a 'contraction' but I figured I'd rather be in pain doing something than bored and alone in our smelly room in the same amount of pain. Mind over matter was my moto but even I found it hard....!
The good side of it all was that Nate got a wicked camera and I bought a dress (10 USD) and treated myself to painted false nails at a measly 5 USD. So that helped distract me at the very least.
Went out for some food but was really struggling just felt weak and worn down with the pain. Have to say it didnt really help with Nate concocting elaborate tales of me birthing a worm. I was almost ready to punch him but... he eventually started being a bit more sympathetic. What is it with men they are complete wimps and have total sense of humour failure when they are 'ill' themselves but seem to lack any degree of empathy when it comes to anyone else. Training is in order methinks...!
Money spent: Breakfast 2USD, drinks 2.30 USD, manicure 5 USD dinner (chiecen with rice) (tuk tuks nath paid. dress 10 USD
Thursday 19th March - Travel to Sihonoukville
What a day! Rushed round the Grand Palace and Toul Seng Museum. All with tummy cramps which got progressively worse as time wore on until I am almost crying with pain at almost 11pm. ANYWAY. The grand palace was much more impressive that Thailand or Laos, and part of it is still functioning. Nath had his new camera which we both enjoyed being snap happy with. The tablets I had taken from Naths self-diagnosing medical kit helped me sleep through the night which was amazing, as it took the edge of the contractions which were also further between and lasted for a shorter duration.
I forced myself to go to the museum but I'm glad I did. It testified to 20,000 victims of the Khmer Rouge - only 7 of which survived. It also featured people who had been party to the Khmer, who were involved often through threat of death themselves. The instruments of torture were the worst, aided by paintings on the walls of how they inflicted their cruel pain.
We got to the bus station to get our onward bus to the beach of Cambodia, Sihonoukville. The bus station was just crazy, although sprayed out water which was a relief otherwise I may just have fallen down dead there and then. OK so I'm a drama queen. There was one guy I suppose equivalent to the fat controller in Thomas the Tank Engine who literally wacked people with his long cane whenever he had the urge. He blew his whistle, gave his hand signals and basically paved the way for passengers alighting from the buses which attracted tuk tuk and moto drivers like an excited swarm of flies. It was quite funny. I cannot get over how the traffic n Phomn Phen is even worse than Bankok. People are literally weaving and dodging each other, driving in the wrong lanes completely (as in driving in opposite direction to the traffic flow) and noy stopping at junctions. I took a moto to the museum as I was by myself and Nath wont go on them, and it was a slightly scary experience even for me! On the way home my driver did it one handed as he was holding a drink in the other. Thats normal here!! But I survived!
I am in so much pain right now it is ridiculous and very very trying. If it is not better by the end of tomorrow I will have to see a doctor which may not be easy in Cambodia! This place is absolutely amazing though. It is a slice of Thailand in Cambodia. Really reminds me of Ko Pang Yang. We also have the best accomodation I have had so far, all things considered. A massive room and bathroom overlooking stunning beach with a large terrace, It really is absolutely amazing for 15 USD. I am very much looking forward to doing absolutely nothing other than sunbating and reading and resting. I really need to get better before I go crazy and I also want to check out the nightlife here!!
We ate at a nearty bar, had a Cambodia dish lemon chicken with rice. It was very atmospheric and we were sitting on a platform almost on the water. Nath is sitting watching the lightening downstairs now on a very cozy couch. I sat too for a while but really just needed desperately to lie down. Please please pains stop I cant take any more!!!!!!!!!!!!
Money spent: 5 USD 2 nights accom, 4 USD bus to Sujjed, dinner 5USD, drinks 2.30 USD. Museum 2 USD tuck tuck 2USD palace 6.5 USD. TOTAL:
Saturday, 28 March 2009
Don Det - 4000 islands, 13th, 14th, 15th March
Friday 13th March - Don Det Day 1
OK so it's been a good day and the 4,000 islands is an absolutely amazing place. Goodness knows if there are really 4000 of them but there are lots of (sometimes tiny) patches of land - all contributing to a stunning landscape.
Have to admit I slept terribly and was therefore just a bit grumpy this morning! - but had a relaxed breakfast with more lovely views and went for a little walk giving a pathetic excuse to stop for another drink after about 200 metres! - and then came back to our hut balcony and basically chilled for the rest of the day in hammocks. The view is absolutely stunning for here - as the name suggests we are also on the sunset side of the island - and the temperature is so hot you dont really feel like doing much at all. Nate started helping me to identify what online buisnesses I could realistically run that fitted my criteria (flexible for acting, good money, part time, mobile, internet based) and I spent some time thinking about that and he explained the basics of the buisness model to me which is actually a simple concept but the complexity lies in the detail and of course identifying the right buisness in the first place.
I swam in the Mekong - sigh of relief - Im happy as long as there is water - and started my book I found here (by the same author as The Thorn Birds - yes!) Approaching sunset me and Nate went tubing and I swam some more. I love watching the local men fishing in the river and the women washing their clothes. But I have to not allow myself to think about what creatures are in the murky depths! I have seen a photo of an extremely large snake like creature that was caught in the Mekong and sometimes one wishes one didn't know these things
I swear its hotter at night here than it is in the day!
Went out to eat in evening with Nate and a young 20 year old laos girl who saw my laptop and struck up conversation. I showed her photos on my laptop and also my showreel and fortunately she got called away before I completely ran out of things to keep her entertained. I think she wanted to practice her English. Nate joined me after he'd been on the internet and who should then walk by but my good dutch friends Bas and David! They joined us for a drink as it was also Davids birthday. It was great to see them again and we went onto a Reggae bar for a few drinks and then once all the lights and music had been turned off in Laos fashion we headed down to the beach. There was a small crowd but not the bonfire which had enticed me down there so I stayed for maybe half an hour then headed back to the hut. Bas and Davids Irish friend Don seems really nice and he walked me back with his torch as Nate had left earlier in the evening. Felt quite tired but much cooler tonight thank goodness.
Money spent Breakfast (spanish omlette) and fruit milkshake 26,000, beer laos 10,000 lunch 8,000 book 10,000 ring rental 5,000. Meal 20,000 TOTAL
Saturday 14th March - Don Det day 2
Blanket lightening and thunder seemed to continue through much of the night. I liked it - very dramatic! Its also cool (literally too) being in a bamboo hut while it's raining which I am totally unaccustomed to in South East Asia. Its normally hot hot hot sun sun sun. I got up to go to the a outside loo in the night (there's a reason these are cjheap!) and the lightening was quite a sight over the 4,000 islands or however many it was we could see from our balcony. This view is just too cool. Nate was awake most of the night with a bug though, so I slept intermitantly. Went off to breakfast in the morning with David, Bass and their new travelling companion Irish Don (after I woke them up!). Then I chilled for a bit with Nate who was feeling rough before heading out on bikes to explore with the guys. Is overcast today and not hot like yesterday where you just didn't feel like doing a thing. I was glad for it because we were cycling for a long time over the most uncomfortably bumpy roads working those thigh muscles! - like really - it's been the best workout since I've been travelling! We actually went the wrong way for ages which didn't help but did eventually did find the waterfall which was very impressive and powerful with 5 tribuaries coming into one, and as we had been warned was not suitable for swimming. However we scrambled over the damn and over the rocks and after Bass and David headed back me and Don continued further with the intention of finding at least one pool of water suitable for swimming or at least quick dip to cool us down! My new flip flops actually grip the rocks which has made it a much easier and enjoyable experience. Heading back, me and Don stopped off for some food as I figured Nate wouldn't fancy eating if he's been sick all day. We had a lovely view again of the Mekong and the sunset on Don Kon. On the way home I had to pump up my tyre twice - typical - but Don was really sweet and swapped bikes with me - what an Irish gent! He's really easy to be with and chat to and he's always laughing which is really nice.
Got back to the hut as the sun was low and red, and Nate was on the balcony - he pretty much had been going back and forth between the bed and the hammock all afternoon. But as I said to him, not a bad place to feel ill, if one has to be ill occassionally!
Nate however declared himself starving and so we went out for some food (I had a banana chocolate pancake yum) and went via the lads place on the way home where I saw Ruddie from our old crowd. They were all on their way out for a 'happy pizza' (magic mushrooms) but as Nate was still unwell we headed back to watch a movie - 'The Dark Knight'. Nate thinks he's the Batman. He's just a big kid really...
Money spent: Breakfast 24,000 bike 8,000 waterfall 9,000 lunch 20,000 dinner nothing brekkie for Nate 10,000, charity donation 50,000 sprite 6,000 water 2000. TOTAL:
Don Det day whatever
Today had another lazy day by the Mekong. Highlights include swimming over to the other island and making a campfire with a random group I met. In lazy places there just aint so much news...
Money spent: Breakfast 15,000, Lunch and 2 mojitos 30,000, Dinner and beer 30,000
OK so it's been a good day and the 4,000 islands is an absolutely amazing place. Goodness knows if there are really 4000 of them but there are lots of (sometimes tiny) patches of land - all contributing to a stunning landscape.
Have to admit I slept terribly and was therefore just a bit grumpy this morning! - but had a relaxed breakfast with more lovely views and went for a little walk giving a pathetic excuse to stop for another drink after about 200 metres! - and then came back to our hut balcony and basically chilled for the rest of the day in hammocks. The view is absolutely stunning for here - as the name suggests we are also on the sunset side of the island - and the temperature is so hot you dont really feel like doing much at all. Nate started helping me to identify what online buisnesses I could realistically run that fitted my criteria (flexible for acting, good money, part time, mobile, internet based) and I spent some time thinking about that and he explained the basics of the buisness model to me which is actually a simple concept but the complexity lies in the detail and of course identifying the right buisness in the first place.
I swam in the Mekong - sigh of relief - Im happy as long as there is water - and started my book I found here (by the same author as The Thorn Birds - yes!) Approaching sunset me and Nate went tubing and I swam some more. I love watching the local men fishing in the river and the women washing their clothes. But I have to not allow myself to think about what creatures are in the murky depths! I have seen a photo of an extremely large snake like creature that was caught in the Mekong and sometimes one wishes one didn't know these things
I swear its hotter at night here than it is in the day!
Went out to eat in evening with Nate and a young 20 year old laos girl who saw my laptop and struck up conversation. I showed her photos on my laptop and also my showreel and fortunately she got called away before I completely ran out of things to keep her entertained. I think she wanted to practice her English. Nate joined me after he'd been on the internet and who should then walk by but my good dutch friends Bas and David! They joined us for a drink as it was also Davids birthday. It was great to see them again and we went onto a Reggae bar for a few drinks and then once all the lights and music had been turned off in Laos fashion we headed down to the beach. There was a small crowd but not the bonfire which had enticed me down there so I stayed for maybe half an hour then headed back to the hut. Bas and Davids Irish friend Don seems really nice and he walked me back with his torch as Nate had left earlier in the evening. Felt quite tired but much cooler tonight thank goodness.
Money spent Breakfast (spanish omlette) and fruit milkshake 26,000, beer laos 10,000 lunch 8,000 book 10,000 ring rental 5,000. Meal 20,000 TOTAL
Saturday 14th March - Don Det day 2
Blanket lightening and thunder seemed to continue through much of the night. I liked it - very dramatic! Its also cool (literally too) being in a bamboo hut while it's raining which I am totally unaccustomed to in South East Asia. Its normally hot hot hot sun sun sun. I got up to go to the a outside loo in the night (there's a reason these are cjheap!) and the lightening was quite a sight over the 4,000 islands or however many it was we could see from our balcony. This view is just too cool. Nate was awake most of the night with a bug though, so I slept intermitantly. Went off to breakfast in the morning with David, Bass and their new travelling companion Irish Don (after I woke them up!). Then I chilled for a bit with Nate who was feeling rough before heading out on bikes to explore with the guys. Is overcast today and not hot like yesterday where you just didn't feel like doing a thing. I was glad for it because we were cycling for a long time over the most uncomfortably bumpy roads working those thigh muscles! - like really - it's been the best workout since I've been travelling! We actually went the wrong way for ages which didn't help but did eventually did find the waterfall which was very impressive and powerful with 5 tribuaries coming into one, and as we had been warned was not suitable for swimming. However we scrambled over the damn and over the rocks and after Bass and David headed back me and Don continued further with the intention of finding at least one pool of water suitable for swimming or at least quick dip to cool us down! My new flip flops actually grip the rocks which has made it a much easier and enjoyable experience. Heading back, me and Don stopped off for some food as I figured Nate wouldn't fancy eating if he's been sick all day. We had a lovely view again of the Mekong and the sunset on Don Kon. On the way home I had to pump up my tyre twice - typical - but Don was really sweet and swapped bikes with me - what an Irish gent! He's really easy to be with and chat to and he's always laughing which is really nice.
Got back to the hut as the sun was low and red, and Nate was on the balcony - he pretty much had been going back and forth between the bed and the hammock all afternoon. But as I said to him, not a bad place to feel ill, if one has to be ill occassionally!
Nate however declared himself starving and so we went out for some food (I had a banana chocolate pancake yum) and went via the lads place on the way home where I saw Ruddie from our old crowd. They were all on their way out for a 'happy pizza' (magic mushrooms) but as Nate was still unwell we headed back to watch a movie - 'The Dark Knight'. Nate thinks he's the Batman. He's just a big kid really...
Money spent: Breakfast 24,000 bike 8,000 waterfall 9,000 lunch 20,000 dinner nothing brekkie for Nate 10,000, charity donation 50,000 sprite 6,000 water 2000. TOTAL:
Don Det day whatever
Today had another lazy day by the Mekong. Highlights include swimming over to the other island and making a campfire with a random group I met. In lazy places there just aint so much news...
Money spent: Breakfast 15,000, Lunch and 2 mojitos 30,000, Dinner and beer 30,000
10th, 11th, 12th - Tadlow and waterfalls and mad treks
Tuesday 10th - Travel from Ventienne to Don Det via Pakse.
We arrived in Pakse at about 7am, winning my bet with Nathan that the whole journey would take less than 12 hours. Yesssssss! Is just so hard being right. Was really tired tho due to horrible sleep. But at least as soon as we got to Paske in our smelly and dishevelled state we managed to get straight back on the same bus to an area called the Boloven Plateau (Tadlow) which is known for its waterfalls - apparantly there's is not much to do in Paske itself, it's more a transport hub.
I'm glad we came to Tadlow - it is so beautiful and chilled and underdeveloped and yes there are guest houses but is not toursity so is still predominantly a locals village. Is it sad that the pigs are possibly one of my favourite things here?! How can such creature embody such character and be so entertaining? There is something innately amusing about them. Caught up on some sleep and then went to the nearby waterfall for a dip and a beer, the one which we can see from our balcony. We could have got extremely cheap accomodation here (bamboo huts for less than 2 pounds a night it just gets better and better!!!) but have gone a bit more upmarket, in a room made of contrete of all things shock horror with own bathroom and balcony and river views. All for 70,000 kip which is like less than 6 quid between us..
Lazy day. Is very hot. Headed out in the evening to one of the few cafe's for some grub, really friendly owner where we had gone earlier for lunch and where the girl we met on the bus is staying.
An English couple Jenny and Rich sat at our table and we all got on really well, spending the evening together chatting and then agreeing to meet for breakfast the next morning so we could explore! Bring it on.
Money spent: Bus to Tadlow 30,000 (2.50) breakfast 12,000 (1 pound), lunch and beer 25,000 (2.10) dinner 30,000 (2.5). TOTAL: 8.10
Weds 11th - Tadlow Day 2.
We met up with the guys from last night to do off for the day. Ended up eating another banana and chocolate pancake for brekkie with an orange juice while Nath checked his e-mails. I think I am in danger of becoming an official banana pancake addict. I love this village, I woke up and looked out over our balcony and saw one of the afore-mentioned pigs waddling very purposefully towards his morning mud bath! There are also piglets which trot around and are the cutest things ever but are very selfish creatures - will they stay still for me to take a photo? NO!! Chickens and animals roam free here - even an elephant wasn't tethered - yes I did say elephant - and I think it is so nice. The other thing that strikes me is how family orientated life is in Laos. Like Nathan said, in England or whatever people work and then spend time with their families in the spare time - work and family are mostly 2 completely seperate entities - but here the whole family sleep together - literally in the same room, and also work together running a family buisness, often tourist based. I have yet to see anything resembling what seems to be a normal western job. Yet life seems attractively simple, the children splashing and playing in the river with their friends and even mundane tasks such as washing clothes have an element of lightness and playfulness about them. I guess the sunshine helps. Children seem more responsible though, helping out serving tables or looking after siblings. I've also noticed there also seem to be a lot of young mums. I would like to engage in more conversation with the locals here but they speak little or no english which is a shame. The children seem very open to tourists often shouting and waving a 'sabadee' (hello) with a smile on their faces and respond well to attempts at conversation however basic. The adults however, I feel regard us with a mixture of suspicion and disdain, or something to be put up with for the sake of economy! However they are for the most part polite and friendly. I guess they see a variety of 'Falong' passing through and some are more respectful than others.
Jenny and Richard met while doing a ski season in France and have now been together for 2 years. They are just fun and easy to chat to and its nice to hang out with other people because now its me and Nath I was worried it would be harder to meet people.
We walked to the 'second' waterfall, going via the elephants rides which I was dissapointed was full for the remainder of the day. Sob sob. Will I ever actually do the elephant thing?! Why didn't I do the Luang Prabang one as intended? I guess the answer is I was with a crowd it was nice to keep travelling with. The waterfall was close and pretty amazing, and we had our staple swim and a beer in the sun (of course sun, its not snowing like England he he). After a bit we set off to walk to the larger waterfall and this is where the true fun started, or my idea of fun anyway.... Basically we had NO idea of where we were going, no map, and any locals we met along the way had no clue what we were saying! What I love about Laos is how underdeveloped it is. Everything seems authentic and non touristy. So why should the locals understand English?
The river was absolutely beautiful and for much of our walk we followed it along, occassionally crossing it by scrambling over the rocks. We saw water buffalo and random cows and bulls along the way which just added to the whole experience of this would not happen in England. It was also fairly surreal as we were trying to find footpaths we passed through a burnt field which with the charred ash on the floor was like stepping into a world reminiscent of narnia. Or something like that..
Had a really nice evening chilling and playing poker (can't believe I'm nearly 30 and never played it before?) and exchanging photos and now I also have some more movies on my netbook! Result. Oh, and I also beat Jenny at Slam. Twice. A great end to a great day.....
Money spent Lunch and dinner and drinks 55,000 (4.60), waters 2,000 (17p), breakfast 15,000 (1.25), beers 10,000 (85p). TOTAL: 6.87
Thurs 12th March - Tadlow to Don Det.
Was largely a travelling day. Got up early to get the 8.30 bus as Nate had to spend a few hours catching up with the internet in Pakse after hearing of the primitive conditions of the 4000 islands! Jenny and Rich came too which was nice. They're on their way north which is a shame because I have really enjoyed hanging out with them.
Got to Pakse, absolutely nothing to do there culturally! - but had a nice indian with the guys (sort of brunch shall we say) and then treated myself to a wonderful oil massage for a fiver. Sigh. Got a shared tuk tuk to 4 000 islands, we decided on Don Det as thats where Jenny and Rich recommended. It seemed to take forever to leave as the driver seemed to stop then go get petrol then back to the bus station to pick up his daughter or girlfriend or someone else! Its the way it is here but as you get used to it its really nice as everybody is in that kind of laid back mentality and people dont seem to get stressed. At first we were the only westeners in the tuk tuk which I really liked as I witnessed the interaction of the locals with each other. Many had bought melons and vegetables from the market and one lady took the journey to prepare for the evening meal. At every stop we were bombarded by other locals selling food - largely whole chickens on sticks but which seemed to have been walloped by a giant mallot until they were flat all over. It was the strangest thing, these flat chickens being thrust at all and sundry. At one point an Irish and Australian guy got on and surrounded by these two bigs guys and Nate you really do see the striking difference between western and laos men. One laos man even commented and laughed about it in his broken english and in sign language told me he was 52.
Even the elderly here seem active and agile I cannot imagine them for example languishing in an old peoples home. The journey was quite enjoyable really, even with the sore bottom (!) and I really loved the increasing ruralness (is there such a word?) as we approached the 4,000 islands. It was sunset by the time we arrived and had to get a boat across the water to Don Det. I am realising time is running out and I have to make decisions in the next week.
We checked out a couple of places accomodation wise and eventualluy settled on sunset bungalows which literally just have a bed inside, no electricity sockets or anything else. Not even a fan! It was very very hot in the evening and I didnt sleep until 2 as was just so uncomfortably hot. Is a bit like camping, there is only electricity here between certain hours so we had to sort ourselves out with a torch. But all adds to the fun.
Had a meal out and a very strong lao lao mojito which was an experience in itself! Looking forward to waking up to this view tomorrow morning. We're right on the Mekong.
Money spent: Bus to Pakse 25,000 tuk tuk 5,000 indian 31,000 massage bus to Don Det 30,000 boat 20,000 meal (noodle soup and lao lao mojito) 20,000 shower gel 20,000 shampoo 10,000.
We arrived in Pakse at about 7am, winning my bet with Nathan that the whole journey would take less than 12 hours. Yesssssss! Is just so hard being right. Was really tired tho due to horrible sleep. But at least as soon as we got to Paske in our smelly and dishevelled state we managed to get straight back on the same bus to an area called the Boloven Plateau (Tadlow) which is known for its waterfalls - apparantly there's is not much to do in Paske itself, it's more a transport hub.
I'm glad we came to Tadlow - it is so beautiful and chilled and underdeveloped and yes there are guest houses but is not toursity so is still predominantly a locals village. Is it sad that the pigs are possibly one of my favourite things here?! How can such creature embody such character and be so entertaining? There is something innately amusing about them. Caught up on some sleep and then went to the nearby waterfall for a dip and a beer, the one which we can see from our balcony. We could have got extremely cheap accomodation here (bamboo huts for less than 2 pounds a night it just gets better and better!!!) but have gone a bit more upmarket, in a room made of contrete of all things shock horror with own bathroom and balcony and river views. All for 70,000 kip which is like less than 6 quid between us..
Lazy day. Is very hot. Headed out in the evening to one of the few cafe's for some grub, really friendly owner where we had gone earlier for lunch and where the girl we met on the bus is staying.
An English couple Jenny and Rich sat at our table and we all got on really well, spending the evening together chatting and then agreeing to meet for breakfast the next morning so we could explore! Bring it on.
Money spent: Bus to Tadlow 30,000 (2.50) breakfast 12,000 (1 pound), lunch and beer 25,000 (2.10) dinner 30,000 (2.5). TOTAL: 8.10
Weds 11th - Tadlow Day 2.
We met up with the guys from last night to do off for the day. Ended up eating another banana and chocolate pancake for brekkie with an orange juice while Nath checked his e-mails. I think I am in danger of becoming an official banana pancake addict. I love this village, I woke up and looked out over our balcony and saw one of the afore-mentioned pigs waddling very purposefully towards his morning mud bath! There are also piglets which trot around and are the cutest things ever but are very selfish creatures - will they stay still for me to take a photo? NO!! Chickens and animals roam free here - even an elephant wasn't tethered - yes I did say elephant - and I think it is so nice. The other thing that strikes me is how family orientated life is in Laos. Like Nathan said, in England or whatever people work and then spend time with their families in the spare time - work and family are mostly 2 completely seperate entities - but here the whole family sleep together - literally in the same room, and also work together running a family buisness, often tourist based. I have yet to see anything resembling what seems to be a normal western job. Yet life seems attractively simple, the children splashing and playing in the river with their friends and even mundane tasks such as washing clothes have an element of lightness and playfulness about them. I guess the sunshine helps. Children seem more responsible though, helping out serving tables or looking after siblings. I've also noticed there also seem to be a lot of young mums. I would like to engage in more conversation with the locals here but they speak little or no english which is a shame. The children seem very open to tourists often shouting and waving a 'sabadee' (hello) with a smile on their faces and respond well to attempts at conversation however basic. The adults however, I feel regard us with a mixture of suspicion and disdain, or something to be put up with for the sake of economy! However they are for the most part polite and friendly. I guess they see a variety of 'Falong' passing through and some are more respectful than others.
Jenny and Richard met while doing a ski season in France and have now been together for 2 years. They are just fun and easy to chat to and its nice to hang out with other people because now its me and Nath I was worried it would be harder to meet people.
We walked to the 'second' waterfall, going via the elephants rides which I was dissapointed was full for the remainder of the day. Sob sob. Will I ever actually do the elephant thing?! Why didn't I do the Luang Prabang one as intended? I guess the answer is I was with a crowd it was nice to keep travelling with. The waterfall was close and pretty amazing, and we had our staple swim and a beer in the sun (of course sun, its not snowing like England he he). After a bit we set off to walk to the larger waterfall and this is where the true fun started, or my idea of fun anyway.... Basically we had NO idea of where we were going, no map, and any locals we met along the way had no clue what we were saying! What I love about Laos is how underdeveloped it is. Everything seems authentic and non touristy. So why should the locals understand English?
The river was absolutely beautiful and for much of our walk we followed it along, occassionally crossing it by scrambling over the rocks. We saw water buffalo and random cows and bulls along the way which just added to the whole experience of this would not happen in England. It was also fairly surreal as we were trying to find footpaths we passed through a burnt field which with the charred ash on the floor was like stepping into a world reminiscent of narnia. Or something like that..
Had a really nice evening chilling and playing poker (can't believe I'm nearly 30 and never played it before?) and exchanging photos and now I also have some more movies on my netbook! Result. Oh, and I also beat Jenny at Slam. Twice. A great end to a great day.....
Money spent Lunch and dinner and drinks 55,000 (4.60), waters 2,000 (17p), breakfast 15,000 (1.25), beers 10,000 (85p). TOTAL: 6.87
Thurs 12th March - Tadlow to Don Det.
Was largely a travelling day. Got up early to get the 8.30 bus as Nate had to spend a few hours catching up with the internet in Pakse after hearing of the primitive conditions of the 4000 islands! Jenny and Rich came too which was nice. They're on their way north which is a shame because I have really enjoyed hanging out with them.
Got to Pakse, absolutely nothing to do there culturally! - but had a nice indian with the guys (sort of brunch shall we say) and then treated myself to a wonderful oil massage for a fiver. Sigh. Got a shared tuk tuk to 4 000 islands, we decided on Don Det as thats where Jenny and Rich recommended. It seemed to take forever to leave as the driver seemed to stop then go get petrol then back to the bus station to pick up his daughter or girlfriend or someone else! Its the way it is here but as you get used to it its really nice as everybody is in that kind of laid back mentality and people dont seem to get stressed. At first we were the only westeners in the tuk tuk which I really liked as I witnessed the interaction of the locals with each other. Many had bought melons and vegetables from the market and one lady took the journey to prepare for the evening meal. At every stop we were bombarded by other locals selling food - largely whole chickens on sticks but which seemed to have been walloped by a giant mallot until they were flat all over. It was the strangest thing, these flat chickens being thrust at all and sundry. At one point an Irish and Australian guy got on and surrounded by these two bigs guys and Nate you really do see the striking difference between western and laos men. One laos man even commented and laughed about it in his broken english and in sign language told me he was 52.
Even the elderly here seem active and agile I cannot imagine them for example languishing in an old peoples home. The journey was quite enjoyable really, even with the sore bottom (!) and I really loved the increasing ruralness (is there such a word?) as we approached the 4,000 islands. It was sunset by the time we arrived and had to get a boat across the water to Don Det. I am realising time is running out and I have to make decisions in the next week.
We checked out a couple of places accomodation wise and eventualluy settled on sunset bungalows which literally just have a bed inside, no electricity sockets or anything else. Not even a fan! It was very very hot in the evening and I didnt sleep until 2 as was just so uncomfortably hot. Is a bit like camping, there is only electricity here between certain hours so we had to sort ourselves out with a torch. But all adds to the fun.
Had a meal out and a very strong lao lao mojito which was an experience in itself! Looking forward to waking up to this view tomorrow morning. We're right on the Mekong.
Money spent: Bus to Pakse 25,000 tuk tuk 5,000 indian 31,000 massage bus to Don Det 30,000 boat 20,000 meal (noodle soup and lao lao mojito) 20,000 shower gel 20,000 shampoo 10,000.
Tuesday, 24 March 2009
Ventiane 8th & 9th March
Sunday 8th - Vientienne day 1
Had a very lazy morning was feeling tired and we had a TV (luxury!) which even made watching bad movies a novelty..! Went to Stickeys cafe just around the corner to eat brunch and get the wireless number. To this day I regret not having the rather delicious eggs benedict Nath ordered. Eventually went for a walk along the river in a kind of we're-in-the-capital-of-Laos-we-really-should-do-something-cultural kind of way, but was rather uneventful so did a tuk tuk tour to see the main sights of Vientiane. Is one way to blitz it esp if one feels a wee bit lethargic. Was sunset by the time we got back and we gleefully sat with a beer on our rather nice balcony ah yes the joys of travelling, and did some internet stuff. Now I've just got to persuade Nathan to get on a local bus tomorrow rather than pay for the expensive VIP ones...Mmmmm. Also, dont really want to spend another day in Ventienne or do an overnight on a bus. I prefer rural places to cities, I guess that's when I really feel like I'm experiencing the culture although I wouldn't skip the cities, just spend less time there. Laos is improving as I'm going through it am getting less scams! I think it just takes me a bit of time to adjust to a new country. You just get used to one and then you move on,..but such are the joys and drawbacks of travelling.
Money spent: Breakfast 18,000 (1.50), tuk tuk tour 40,000 (3.34), water and beers 23,000 (1.92) earings 10,000 (84 p) admissions 10,000 (84p) dinner something (2.00) TOTAL: 9.20
Monday 9th - Vientienne day 2
Today we packed and checked out and had a really bad breakfast - gutted! Im really starting to rely on nice food here, one gets a bit (ok, VERY) spoiled eating out all the time. It was actually an 'english' bar ran by a real 'english'man serving supossedly 'english' food and I ordered an 'english' breakfast - but it was 'orrible!
Went to the National museum which the most interesting part for me was learning about UXO's - vast numbers of unexploded ordnances from the Indochinese war, a huge problem across Laos and I read on average, despite huge clean up operations, they still claim 2 victims a day. Usually children. Literally thousands of Laos people have been affected and victimised by UXOs as well as several hundred losing their lives. Because many experience severe economic hardship, many are putting themselves at risk by trying to make money out of it. Apparsantly there are 270 million ordnances left on Laos' soil, and at least 30% of them are unexploded bombs,
Fortunately no worries of that in the capital though..
I am liking Vientiane. I think it is because I came here with no expectations everyone said it was crap there was nothing to do, but I have chillled and am enjoying my travels now not being so manic pace, also is nice being with Nate.
We found ourselves at a shopping mall in the afternoon which was great - loads of market style stalls. I bought a new DV tape for my camcorder. Nate bought some combat shorts. Other than that I just really enjoyed wandering round. There were very few westerners there which I like. Laos is much less touristy than Thailands, but I feel I have yet to experience in properly ie the border was just a port, Luang Prabang while charming was essentially French, and Vang Vieng a backpackers piss up. Dont get me wrong, all fab places and to be fair could have stayed tubing got days and days but really craving some ruralness now.....
Moving swiftly on, we caught a tuk tuk to the bus station and got an 8 o'clock overnight bus to Pakse in the south of Laos. I really wanted a sleeper bus and in a moment of softness or just stupidity gave in to Nate who wanted a reclining bus. Never again! I can't do vertical! Watched a movie on my netbook though which was cool and maybe got 1 1/2 hours sleep once I could properly lie out on the back seat. Looking on the bright side, I'm also in line to win a 300,000 kip bet if we make it in less than 12 hours...I'm confident, easy money ;)
Money spent: Tuk tuk 25,000 (1.25) bus 30,000 (2.5) breakfast lunch dinner beer 9,000 (7.50) admission 20,000 (1.67) orange juice and water 22,000 (1.83). TOTAL: . 14.75
Had a very lazy morning was feeling tired and we had a TV (luxury!) which even made watching bad movies a novelty..! Went to Stickeys cafe just around the corner to eat brunch and get the wireless number. To this day I regret not having the rather delicious eggs benedict Nath ordered. Eventually went for a walk along the river in a kind of we're-in-the-capital-of-Laos-we-really-should-do-something-cultural kind of way, but was rather uneventful so did a tuk tuk tour to see the main sights of Vientiane. Is one way to blitz it esp if one feels a wee bit lethargic. Was sunset by the time we got back and we gleefully sat with a beer on our rather nice balcony ah yes the joys of travelling, and did some internet stuff. Now I've just got to persuade Nathan to get on a local bus tomorrow rather than pay for the expensive VIP ones...Mmmmm. Also, dont really want to spend another day in Ventienne or do an overnight on a bus. I prefer rural places to cities, I guess that's when I really feel like I'm experiencing the culture although I wouldn't skip the cities, just spend less time there. Laos is improving as I'm going through it am getting less scams! I think it just takes me a bit of time to adjust to a new country. You just get used to one and then you move on,..but such are the joys and drawbacks of travelling.
Money spent: Breakfast 18,000 (1.50), tuk tuk tour 40,000 (3.34), water and beers 23,000 (1.92) earings 10,000 (84 p) admissions 10,000 (84p) dinner something (2.00) TOTAL: 9.20
Monday 9th - Vientienne day 2
Today we packed and checked out and had a really bad breakfast - gutted! Im really starting to rely on nice food here, one gets a bit (ok, VERY) spoiled eating out all the time. It was actually an 'english' bar ran by a real 'english'man serving supossedly 'english' food and I ordered an 'english' breakfast - but it was 'orrible!
Went to the National museum which the most interesting part for me was learning about UXO's - vast numbers of unexploded ordnances from the Indochinese war, a huge problem across Laos and I read on average, despite huge clean up operations, they still claim 2 victims a day. Usually children. Literally thousands of Laos people have been affected and victimised by UXOs as well as several hundred losing their lives. Because many experience severe economic hardship, many are putting themselves at risk by trying to make money out of it. Apparsantly there are 270 million ordnances left on Laos' soil, and at least 30% of them are unexploded bombs,
Fortunately no worries of that in the capital though..
I am liking Vientiane. I think it is because I came here with no expectations everyone said it was crap there was nothing to do, but I have chillled and am enjoying my travels now not being so manic pace, also is nice being with Nate.
We found ourselves at a shopping mall in the afternoon which was great - loads of market style stalls. I bought a new DV tape for my camcorder. Nate bought some combat shorts. Other than that I just really enjoyed wandering round. There were very few westerners there which I like. Laos is much less touristy than Thailands, but I feel I have yet to experience in properly ie the border was just a port, Luang Prabang while charming was essentially French, and Vang Vieng a backpackers piss up. Dont get me wrong, all fab places and to be fair could have stayed tubing got days and days but really craving some ruralness now.....
Moving swiftly on, we caught a tuk tuk to the bus station and got an 8 o'clock overnight bus to Pakse in the south of Laos. I really wanted a sleeper bus and in a moment of softness or just stupidity gave in to Nate who wanted a reclining bus. Never again! I can't do vertical! Watched a movie on my netbook though which was cool and maybe got 1 1/2 hours sleep once I could properly lie out on the back seat. Looking on the bright side, I'm also in line to win a 300,000 kip bet if we make it in less than 12 hours...I'm confident, easy money ;)
Money spent: Tuk tuk 25,000 (1.25) bus 30,000 (2.5) breakfast lunch dinner beer 9,000 (7.50) admission 20,000 (1.67) orange juice and water 22,000 (1.83). TOTAL: . 14.75
Sunday, 8 March 2009
Saturday 7th March - travel to Vientiane
Today we chilled and took our time as bus (our compromise between local bus and posh minibus!!) wasn't until 1.30pm so made the use of my half price english breakfast which was very big and very nice (!) and got the 3 1/2 hour bus to the capital, Ventienne. Unless you go posh, the buses here are always hot and sticky but it was nice to pass the time with Nathan and we had the spaciousness of the back seat (result!) and listening to his i-pod.
Upon arriving I realised that it is Sunday tomorrow so if I want to get my visa here I'll have to hang around another day. Its good to see the capital city but their aint much else to do here.
We went out for dinner on the Mekong, in a little bamboo hut like platform. It was funny because as we had walked past copious times checking out the riverfront one lady had probably said hello to us and gigggled on a handful of occassions in an effort to get us into her restaraunt but once we were there it took ages to order food! This place although every nice to eat in had offically the worst loo I had seen in all my travels thus far, it was a space sectioned off by bamboo walls with no fourth wall so anyone passing by could see you awkwardly squatting on the floor, and there was literally no hole in the ground so I didn't fancy that very much so went next door which was a definate improvement! I ate a very nice green thai chicken soup with some rice which I didnt finish which is like a miracle.
Nathan found us some good accomodation for 100,000 although everything here is more expensive than anywhere else in Laos. Of course it helps a lot to share though. Room has a little TV and is clean, and there is a huge sunny shared sunny balcony overlooking the Mekong which is very pleasant to pass time.
We headed to the rooftop bar that David had told me about (who I have seen in just about every major city since Chang Mai and lo and behold came strolling around the corner here too when I was sitting with my backpack!.) It was very different to the rooftop bar in chang mai, you sat on tables instead of the floor for a start and i retained my footwear! We had met this Irish guy on the bus who we kept bumping into when we were traipsing around trying ot find accomodation, and we went for a drink together. He - no joke- on a good day could pass for someone in his late 20's even though he is 40 and a grandad! He didn't stop for breath and was absoutely hilarious! Regaling us with tales of his adventures I struggled to follow due to his quickness of speach and my ever increasing tiredness. A right character though.
We chatted about what we are going to to or go next. We have decided to go down to the 4000 islands then through cambodia and work up through Vietnam once weve checked a couple of things out on the internet namely can Nathan get his visa extended (its starts from the date of issue not entry which is a pain) and a couple of other things. I am going to find out if I can change my flight or whether I have to ditch it and if so how much it would be to get a single back to england. I will feel more relaxed if I am not in such a rush and under less pressure to be doing and seeing things all the time.
Money spent Breakfast 35,000 (3 quid) Accomodation 75,00 (3 nights Vang Vieng) (6.30) accomodation Ventianne 50,000 (4.20) bus 50,000 (4.20) Dinner 30,000 (2.50) coke 5000 (42p) beer 12000 (1 quid) TOTAL: 21.62
Best thing: Eating on the Mekong.
Worst thing: Best part of a day travelling.
Upon arriving I realised that it is Sunday tomorrow so if I want to get my visa here I'll have to hang around another day. Its good to see the capital city but their aint much else to do here.
We went out for dinner on the Mekong, in a little bamboo hut like platform. It was funny because as we had walked past copious times checking out the riverfront one lady had probably said hello to us and gigggled on a handful of occassions in an effort to get us into her restaraunt but once we were there it took ages to order food! This place although every nice to eat in had offically the worst loo I had seen in all my travels thus far, it was a space sectioned off by bamboo walls with no fourth wall so anyone passing by could see you awkwardly squatting on the floor, and there was literally no hole in the ground so I didn't fancy that very much so went next door which was a definate improvement! I ate a very nice green thai chicken soup with some rice which I didnt finish which is like a miracle.
Nathan found us some good accomodation for 100,000 although everything here is more expensive than anywhere else in Laos. Of course it helps a lot to share though. Room has a little TV and is clean, and there is a huge sunny shared sunny balcony overlooking the Mekong which is very pleasant to pass time.
We headed to the rooftop bar that David had told me about (who I have seen in just about every major city since Chang Mai and lo and behold came strolling around the corner here too when I was sitting with my backpack!.) It was very different to the rooftop bar in chang mai, you sat on tables instead of the floor for a start and i retained my footwear! We had met this Irish guy on the bus who we kept bumping into when we were traipsing around trying ot find accomodation, and we went for a drink together. He - no joke- on a good day could pass for someone in his late 20's even though he is 40 and a grandad! He didn't stop for breath and was absoutely hilarious! Regaling us with tales of his adventures I struggled to follow due to his quickness of speach and my ever increasing tiredness. A right character though.
We chatted about what we are going to to or go next. We have decided to go down to the 4000 islands then through cambodia and work up through Vietnam once weve checked a couple of things out on the internet namely can Nathan get his visa extended (its starts from the date of issue not entry which is a pain) and a couple of other things. I am going to find out if I can change my flight or whether I have to ditch it and if so how much it would be to get a single back to england. I will feel more relaxed if I am not in such a rush and under less pressure to be doing and seeing things all the time.
Money spent Breakfast 35,000 (3 quid) Accomodation 75,00 (3 nights Vang Vieng) (6.30) accomodation Ventianne 50,000 (4.20) bus 50,000 (4.20) Dinner 30,000 (2.50) coke 5000 (42p) beer 12000 (1 quid) TOTAL: 21.62
Best thing: Eating on the Mekong.
Worst thing: Best part of a day travelling.
Friday 6th March - Motorbiking Vang Vieng day 3
Today we set off at 2pm ish as Nathan had to do some work. He explained to me what he does - basically, broking carbon credits between buyers and sellers which is just so amazingly cheesy because its all email and skype based - he can do it from anywhere in the world and that's exactly what he is doing! The only sacrifice is you have to be disciplined to put in those 2 or 3 hours every day. It's a hard life eh.
We rented a motorbike of course at my suggestion, this time a manual one which was quite, er, interesting (and frightening for Nathan while I was learning how to use it) as it was a bit jagged at first changing the gears with your feet as you and the bike precariously wobble and lurch along. The bike was obviously in top notch condition which filled us with confidence as the speedometer didn't work and also the tire became flat as we progressed on our journey. Rather uncomfortable especialy if riding pillion. The thing is in south east asia people grow up on the backs of motorbikes as kids and driving motorbikes I'm sure legally underage if there is such a thing as a legal age, so we must look quite amusing to them in our lack of grace and ineptness. We headed in a kind of northerly direction, attempting to find the nearby Hmong (tribal) village before going to a lagoon to chill. In usual Carla fashion I got distracted and we ended up going to 'elephant cave' but it was a pretty cool place, we walked at least a kilometer and could have gone further but the guide wanted more money and also time was ticking on. The cave was situated in a huge rock, and Nathan bet me equivalent of 50 quid I couldnt climb it so of course I was determined to try. I circumnavigated it but it actually proved to be impossible as it was sheer vertical rocks all the way round and it looked like the kind of thing I would love to have got my teeth into but needed all the proper gear to do it, without dying at least and there are still things I want to do with my life...! We tried to continue to the village north of the river, but the 'road' was no wider than a footpath, or should I say was a footpath and and about half a foot in the air no less, which added to the already rickety motorbike - (and not a 125 cc as in Pai, Thailand) - even I had to draw a line and admit defeat. So we crossed the river again and made our way along the south path. I think Nathan was relieved he had finally see me display some common sense...
We eventually made out way to the lagoon into a beautiful sunset on the most pot-holed road I have driven on, or uncomfortably bounced along should I say. So, we arrived at the lagoon just before dark and so late we didnt have to pay the 10,000 entrance fee. It was certainly very blue, or green, and would have been akin to a paradise chilling out for the day which was the original intention. I always curse myself afterwards for arriving at these places too late! Where does the day go? Anyway, I had a little dip and we chatted as it got dark with some beers and maltesers (the first chocolate I have had in over a month if you dont count the nutella pancake I had once) that Nathan had ingeniously brought along. I really have to do some exercise without my regular gym workouts and the gorgeous and cheap food in these countries I'm going to put on weight!
We got back to the guest house and chilled out for a while before leaving for some dinner at nearly 10 o'clock. We got a bucket of Mojito between us and popped a balloon to win a prize - a half price english breakfast. I do love the freebies they give away here. There's always something - especially the drinks promotions or free shots. Of course this can also be lethal!
Went to the bucket bar to have a drink and a dance. Well, Ok for me to have a dance even though it wasn't really Nathans thing but with my powers of persuasion he joined me on the dance floor but drew the line at doing the macorena....yeah I dont know how to spell that.
Onto Ventienne tomorrow. Am considering ditching my return flight the time pressure means I dont fully enjoy each stage of my travels because I always feel I have to press on.
Money spent: bike 25,000 (2.10), guide 5,000 (42p), entrance 5,000 (42p) crossing bridge 5,000 (42p) Breakfast 20,000 (1.70), coke 7,000 (59p), dinner 50,000 (4.20). TOTAL: 9.85
Best thing: Cave and chatting at lagoon
Worst thing: Just arriving bit late at lagoon when the sun had gone down! Doh!
We rented a motorbike of course at my suggestion, this time a manual one which was quite, er, interesting (and frightening for Nathan while I was learning how to use it) as it was a bit jagged at first changing the gears with your feet as you and the bike precariously wobble and lurch along. The bike was obviously in top notch condition which filled us with confidence as the speedometer didn't work and also the tire became flat as we progressed on our journey. Rather uncomfortable especialy if riding pillion. The thing is in south east asia people grow up on the backs of motorbikes as kids and driving motorbikes I'm sure legally underage if there is such a thing as a legal age, so we must look quite amusing to them in our lack of grace and ineptness. We headed in a kind of northerly direction, attempting to find the nearby Hmong (tribal) village before going to a lagoon to chill. In usual Carla fashion I got distracted and we ended up going to 'elephant cave' but it was a pretty cool place, we walked at least a kilometer and could have gone further but the guide wanted more money and also time was ticking on. The cave was situated in a huge rock, and Nathan bet me equivalent of 50 quid I couldnt climb it so of course I was determined to try. I circumnavigated it but it actually proved to be impossible as it was sheer vertical rocks all the way round and it looked like the kind of thing I would love to have got my teeth into but needed all the proper gear to do it, without dying at least and there are still things I want to do with my life...! We tried to continue to the village north of the river, but the 'road' was no wider than a footpath, or should I say was a footpath and and about half a foot in the air no less, which added to the already rickety motorbike - (and not a 125 cc as in Pai, Thailand) - even I had to draw a line and admit defeat. So we crossed the river again and made our way along the south path. I think Nathan was relieved he had finally see me display some common sense...
We eventually made out way to the lagoon into a beautiful sunset on the most pot-holed road I have driven on, or uncomfortably bounced along should I say. So, we arrived at the lagoon just before dark and so late we didnt have to pay the 10,000 entrance fee. It was certainly very blue, or green, and would have been akin to a paradise chilling out for the day which was the original intention. I always curse myself afterwards for arriving at these places too late! Where does the day go? Anyway, I had a little dip and we chatted as it got dark with some beers and maltesers (the first chocolate I have had in over a month if you dont count the nutella pancake I had once) that Nathan had ingeniously brought along. I really have to do some exercise without my regular gym workouts and the gorgeous and cheap food in these countries I'm going to put on weight!
We got back to the guest house and chilled out for a while before leaving for some dinner at nearly 10 o'clock. We got a bucket of Mojito between us and popped a balloon to win a prize - a half price english breakfast. I do love the freebies they give away here. There's always something - especially the drinks promotions or free shots. Of course this can also be lethal!
Went to the bucket bar to have a drink and a dance. Well, Ok for me to have a dance even though it wasn't really Nathans thing but with my powers of persuasion he joined me on the dance floor but drew the line at doing the macorena....yeah I dont know how to spell that.
Onto Ventienne tomorrow. Am considering ditching my return flight the time pressure means I dont fully enjoy each stage of my travels because I always feel I have to press on.
Money spent: bike 25,000 (2.10), guide 5,000 (42p), entrance 5,000 (42p) crossing bridge 5,000 (42p) Breakfast 20,000 (1.70), coke 7,000 (59p), dinner 50,000 (4.20). TOTAL: 9.85
Best thing: Cave and chatting at lagoon
Worst thing: Just arriving bit late at lagoon when the sun had gone down! Doh!
Thursday 5th March - Kayaking and Caving (Vang Vieng day 2)
Got up early to go and do our caving and kayaking - oh yes I have finally committed to a whole day organised tour! It was a lovely and relaxed day, just me, Nathan and two other people (americans) who had been teaching in Korea. We stopped at a couple of caves along the river and did a bit of trekking to get to and through one of them. Both were relatively unspectaular visually, but was still pretty cool walking by torchlight and scrambling on the rocks (had the wrong flip flops on so was a bit slow!) One, named the 'sleeping cave' acquired it's name from the war (apparantly Laos is south east asias most bombed country) when people hid and slept there, and the other 'water cave' took more of a climb to get to and would ordinarily have water running through the 150 metre length of it.
Lunch was pretty cool as they had made a camp fire near the river, and so we had rice, baguette and meat and veg on scews, ah the outdoor life. I would love to go travelling where that is all I did - just travel with a backpack along the river making camp along the way. Maybe next time! Nathan did it in Lower Zambezi where 'wild africa still exists'...! (In the Mana Pools region he told me to write.)
We finished Kayaking at about 4.30 (I think we annoyed our guides because we took out time and I let Nathan do most of the paddling on the way home as I lay back and drank my beer...!) We went to sit to watch the sunset in hammocks at bucket bar which although is the place to be at night is actually pretty dead during the day! Walking home we stopped for food at another place with a view of the river so really made the most of the day and river / mountain setting methinks. Was so knackered went home, showered and went to bed early. Enjoying spending time with Nathan and talking about continuing to travel together although he's on somewhat of a different budget than me! He seems also to be spontaneous and open minded and while he is a plan of where he wants to go, he also flexible so I think it could work well. It is also nice to be with someone nearer my own age.
The crowd I have been travelling with is beginning to disintegrate as people move on at different times. Was pretty funny upon returning to the guest house as they were all obviously competely wasted after a second day of tubing. I entered Bas and Davids room to find Erin, Serenna, Jonathan and Jack posing in various states of undress, and the guys wearing the girls bikinis taking photo's for facebook...! Is always is amusing to look upon such situations with sober eyes. Jack made me laugh the most he obviously really enjoyed dressing up in women clothes and was rather proud of it....
Money spent: Diving and Caving 16 USD (12 quid), Milkshake 5,000 (42p) Coke 5,000 meal (baked potatoe with tuna) 25,000 (2.10) kip, Lao Beer 10,000 (85p) TOTAL: 15.37
Best thing: Kayaking
Worst thing: Er...?
Lunch was pretty cool as they had made a camp fire near the river, and so we had rice, baguette and meat and veg on scews, ah the outdoor life. I would love to go travelling where that is all I did - just travel with a backpack along the river making camp along the way. Maybe next time! Nathan did it in Lower Zambezi where 'wild africa still exists'...! (In the Mana Pools region he told me to write.)
We finished Kayaking at about 4.30 (I think we annoyed our guides because we took out time and I let Nathan do most of the paddling on the way home as I lay back and drank my beer...!) We went to sit to watch the sunset in hammocks at bucket bar which although is the place to be at night is actually pretty dead during the day! Walking home we stopped for food at another place with a view of the river so really made the most of the day and river / mountain setting methinks. Was so knackered went home, showered and went to bed early. Enjoying spending time with Nathan and talking about continuing to travel together although he's on somewhat of a different budget than me! He seems also to be spontaneous and open minded and while he is a plan of where he wants to go, he also flexible so I think it could work well. It is also nice to be with someone nearer my own age.
The crowd I have been travelling with is beginning to disintegrate as people move on at different times. Was pretty funny upon returning to the guest house as they were all obviously competely wasted after a second day of tubing. I entered Bas and Davids room to find Erin, Serenna, Jonathan and Jack posing in various states of undress, and the guys wearing the girls bikinis taking photo's for facebook...! Is always is amusing to look upon such situations with sober eyes. Jack made me laugh the most he obviously really enjoyed dressing up in women clothes and was rather proud of it....
Money spent: Diving and Caving 16 USD (12 quid), Milkshake 5,000 (42p) Coke 5,000 meal (baked potatoe with tuna) 25,000 (2.10) kip, Lao Beer 10,000 (85p) TOTAL: 15.37
Best thing: Kayaking
Worst thing: Er...?
Wednesday 4th March - Tubing in Vang Vieng (day 1)
Got woken up quit early by the girls (of course!) Had brekkie in Babylon next door and caught up on the internet after about a week of being offline. Doesn't bother me so much, I just dont want my family to worry. Got chatting to a guy from Australia who was looking for a place to stay, he seemed nice so we're gonna share a room, only 25,000 kip each like just over 2 quid.
My group headed off tubing at about 12.30. It was the best thing ever, loads of bars and swings and platforms to jump situated along the river with the gorgeous backdrop of mountains. I paced myself and only had a couple of beers but it was cool because when everyone was wasted at 8pm and wanting to go to bed, I was still in high spirits, and went out with my roomate Nathan and his friend Sam (French women he had met on the bus from the Thailand border - they got the bus rather than the slow boat.)
We ate in a chilled out bar I had a pizza I think the first time I've had one. Struggled to finish it! Even though my appetite is steadily increasing being here. I am being spoilt really I am gonna get so used to eating out it'll be a shock back in England.
I had such a lovely day even thought I was suprised how high and scary the jumps actually were (all helps the adrenaline though) and it struck me again how lacking in health and safety this place is. Apparantly about 2 people a year die from going tubing (the name derives from supposedly floating down the river in inflatable rings from bar to bar but I got advised against it coz other ppl nick em!), but that is probably the combination of drink, drugs and water. The average person isnt in much danger bar a nice red mark if landing badly from the fairly significant heights. They have people manning each jumping or swinging station, and I'm not great with heights (oh the irony!) so I literally had to just go for it each time without looking down, thinkng about it too much is not a good idea! You just have the realise the fear is purely psychological, you won't let go, or drop into shallow water. The initial bit taking off is the most exhilerating because you feel like you're flying, I just have to sort the landing. Fortunately I havnt had too many painful situations but a couple of friends really landed awkwardly and it shook them up a bit and made me a bit nervous too!
We were still doing it as it turned dark. In fact we arrived at a bar which also contained a mud bath (yes!) The only problem getting down the river to the next bar was that the water levels were really really low and as the current was so strong you had to be really careful to not scrape your knees or legs along the bottom of the river. I was surpised how strong the current was even in very shallow water.
On another of the bar swings I attempted a somersault. Well, basically Jacob had given it a go and I couldnt let a guy be the only one to try it...;) This swing didn't have as much momentum as the very first one so I literally had to turn myself upside down manually whilst still hanging by my arms on the swing and then do the half turn while falling. I have no idea what it looked like but my friends said it looked good! I'm sure in an awkward kinda way...! I am determined to try a somersault on the big one at the first bar before I leave - I am just scared about the landing. I'm a strong swimmer but a couple of times I have taken in water and struggled to breathe for a bit - if you let go at the highest point of the swing it is actually a very big drop. So I've just to get over that and try it. I chatted to one guy who thought a somersault was easier than jumping normally so if I see him again I may take a few pointers! It looks impressive anyway but land wrong and youve got a large crowd of witnesses!
The atmosphere was really cool all the bars were pumping out tunes and everyone was just being happy.
I lost some , not a lot though. Basically you have to go with nothing apart from your bikini and some beer money. I just had some notes in a money bag which I put in my bikini cup. The funny thing was I had just set up a bet with some guy who said I wouldn't climb the ladder and jump without hesitating so of course I did - so at least I had a legitimate drink bought for me! It was a really fun day and I may stay a bit longer its nice to be having fun after a few stresses and a lot of traveling over the past few days.
Money spent: Water and orange juice 7,000 breakfast, 20,000 tuk tuks, 10,000 drink, unknown amount lost money when I jumped in from a high platform and it came out of my bikini ;)
Best thing: Tubing was ace!
Worst thing: Nothing really. Lost some money but it was funny.
My group headed off tubing at about 12.30. It was the best thing ever, loads of bars and swings and platforms to jump situated along the river with the gorgeous backdrop of mountains. I paced myself and only had a couple of beers but it was cool because when everyone was wasted at 8pm and wanting to go to bed, I was still in high spirits, and went out with my roomate Nathan and his friend Sam (French women he had met on the bus from the Thailand border - they got the bus rather than the slow boat.)
We ate in a chilled out bar I had a pizza I think the first time I've had one. Struggled to finish it! Even though my appetite is steadily increasing being here. I am being spoilt really I am gonna get so used to eating out it'll be a shock back in England.
I had such a lovely day even thought I was suprised how high and scary the jumps actually were (all helps the adrenaline though) and it struck me again how lacking in health and safety this place is. Apparantly about 2 people a year die from going tubing (the name derives from supposedly floating down the river in inflatable rings from bar to bar but I got advised against it coz other ppl nick em!), but that is probably the combination of drink, drugs and water. The average person isnt in much danger bar a nice red mark if landing badly from the fairly significant heights. They have people manning each jumping or swinging station, and I'm not great with heights (oh the irony!) so I literally had to just go for it each time without looking down, thinkng about it too much is not a good idea! You just have the realise the fear is purely psychological, you won't let go, or drop into shallow water. The initial bit taking off is the most exhilerating because you feel like you're flying, I just have to sort the landing. Fortunately I havnt had too many painful situations but a couple of friends really landed awkwardly and it shook them up a bit and made me a bit nervous too!
We were still doing it as it turned dark. In fact we arrived at a bar which also contained a mud bath (yes!) The only problem getting down the river to the next bar was that the water levels were really really low and as the current was so strong you had to be really careful to not scrape your knees or legs along the bottom of the river. I was surpised how strong the current was even in very shallow water.
On another of the bar swings I attempted a somersault. Well, basically Jacob had given it a go and I couldnt let a guy be the only one to try it...;) This swing didn't have as much momentum as the very first one so I literally had to turn myself upside down manually whilst still hanging by my arms on the swing and then do the half turn while falling. I have no idea what it looked like but my friends said it looked good! I'm sure in an awkward kinda way...! I am determined to try a somersault on the big one at the first bar before I leave - I am just scared about the landing. I'm a strong swimmer but a couple of times I have taken in water and struggled to breathe for a bit - if you let go at the highest point of the swing it is actually a very big drop. So I've just to get over that and try it. I chatted to one guy who thought a somersault was easier than jumping normally so if I see him again I may take a few pointers! It looks impressive anyway but land wrong and youve got a large crowd of witnesses!
The atmosphere was really cool all the bars were pumping out tunes and everyone was just being happy.
I lost some , not a lot though. Basically you have to go with nothing apart from your bikini and some beer money. I just had some notes in a money bag which I put in my bikini cup. The funny thing was I had just set up a bet with some guy who said I wouldn't climb the ladder and jump without hesitating so of course I did - so at least I had a legitimate drink bought for me! It was a really fun day and I may stay a bit longer its nice to be having fun after a few stresses and a lot of traveling over the past few days.
Money spent: Water and orange juice 7,000 breakfast, 20,000 tuk tuks, 10,000 drink, unknown amount lost money when I jumped in from a high platform and it came out of my bikini ;)
Best thing: Tubing was ace!
Worst thing: Nothing really. Lost some money but it was funny.
Tuesday, 3 March 2009
Tuesday 3rd March - travelling to Vang Vieng
Tuesday 3rd March - travelling to Vang Vieng
Well come tomorrow I'd have been travelling a month and be half way through my time here.
Today was largely a travelling day - bar my gorgeous american breakfast where I got chatting to an American lady whose daughter was also in the acting / film industry - currently in New Zealand where Peter Jackson is making 'The Hobbit.'
Had a bit of a stress with the ATM it seemed to give me the 700,000 I had requested but it didnt I just hope I didn't lose the money. Its such a rip off you can only draw out 56 quid at a time and it charges you nearly 2 quid for the privaledge! Cant say I budgeted for that!
The supposedly 6 hour drive was on a rickety old bus that had a motorbike on top (not sure how they managed that?!), think we must have got scammed again because it certainly wasn't air conditioned! Fortunately I had a double seat to myself. They kept stopping at random places for the odd pee in a bush and lunch so it took quite a long time struggling up the hills. The drive itself was stunning, through the mountains and in the town, the view from the river is amazing. It was dark when we arrived in Vang Vien. The others just wanted to get a room and shower so I was quite dissapointed we didn't get to stay by the river. I was gonna split with the group and started walking to Marilyn guest house but it was a bit too far out of town, and so I wandered around and saw a few other rooms and got chatting to an English guy Jay who has been here a few days and who gave me the low down. We went for some food in a place they were playing the simpsons - all of the bars here have some sort of sitcoms running constantly. Good to chill or if you're eating alone. Btw, banana milkshakes here are gorgeous...!
Went out quite late by the time I sorted myself out. I found 3 german girls who I shared a room with in the end who are leaving tomorrow but it works out at 25,000 each - cheaper than Luang Prabang. From what can work out there is not much to do here other than go tubing in the day time which basically entails getting drunk and wet, swinging and messing about in the water. Sounds fun to me but I may not stay here as long as I thought.
We had a really good night out and I had a good dance at Bucket bar. The only thing is it shut quite early. I ended up having quite a few free shots they just give em away! Jonathan went home early but the rest of us stayed out until we got bored because basically the police arrived and they're really strict on curfews in this country, even thought slightly more lenient for backpackers / tourists I guess they need the income. Tomorrow is tubing which everyone raves about!
Money spent: Water 3000, breakfast 250, dinner 20,000 bucket 20,000, room 25,000, paid for room last three nights 80,000 coke 5,000 tuk tuk 7,000 and 10,000 beer on tap 6,000.banana pancake 10,000. TOTAL 166,250 kip or 13.30 pounds
Best thing: Dancing baby yeah!
Worst thing: Looong journey. Again.
Well come tomorrow I'd have been travelling a month and be half way through my time here.
Today was largely a travelling day - bar my gorgeous american breakfast where I got chatting to an American lady whose daughter was also in the acting / film industry - currently in New Zealand where Peter Jackson is making 'The Hobbit.'
Had a bit of a stress with the ATM it seemed to give me the 700,000 I had requested but it didnt I just hope I didn't lose the money. Its such a rip off you can only draw out 56 quid at a time and it charges you nearly 2 quid for the privaledge! Cant say I budgeted for that!
The supposedly 6 hour drive was on a rickety old bus that had a motorbike on top (not sure how they managed that?!), think we must have got scammed again because it certainly wasn't air conditioned! Fortunately I had a double seat to myself. They kept stopping at random places for the odd pee in a bush and lunch so it took quite a long time struggling up the hills. The drive itself was stunning, through the mountains and in the town, the view from the river is amazing. It was dark when we arrived in Vang Vien. The others just wanted to get a room and shower so I was quite dissapointed we didn't get to stay by the river. I was gonna split with the group and started walking to Marilyn guest house but it was a bit too far out of town, and so I wandered around and saw a few other rooms and got chatting to an English guy Jay who has been here a few days and who gave me the low down. We went for some food in a place they were playing the simpsons - all of the bars here have some sort of sitcoms running constantly. Good to chill or if you're eating alone. Btw, banana milkshakes here are gorgeous...!
Went out quite late by the time I sorted myself out. I found 3 german girls who I shared a room with in the end who are leaving tomorrow but it works out at 25,000 each - cheaper than Luang Prabang. From what can work out there is not much to do here other than go tubing in the day time which basically entails getting drunk and wet, swinging and messing about in the water. Sounds fun to me but I may not stay here as long as I thought.
We had a really good night out and I had a good dance at Bucket bar. The only thing is it shut quite early. I ended up having quite a few free shots they just give em away! Jonathan went home early but the rest of us stayed out until we got bored because basically the police arrived and they're really strict on curfews in this country, even thought slightly more lenient for backpackers / tourists I guess they need the income. Tomorrow is tubing which everyone raves about!
Money spent: Water 3000, breakfast 250, dinner 20,000 bucket 20,000, room 25,000, paid for room last three nights 80,000 coke 5,000 tuk tuk 7,000 and 10,000 beer on tap 6,000.banana pancake 10,000. TOTAL 166,250 kip or 13.30 pounds
Best thing: Dancing baby yeah!
Worst thing: Looong journey. Again.
Monday 2nd March - Lunag Prabang day 2 caves and waterfalls
Monday 2nd March - Luang Prabang day 2
Jacob woke us up at 9am and after persuading some of the guys to get up (Sienna came and jumped on Bas and Davids bed blaring music which they so did not apreciate!) had a lovely american breakfast for 2 quid which included orange juice and coffee which was a real treat. 8 of us (Jonathan wouldnt get his arse outta bed!) chartered a tuk tuk for 50,000 (4 quid) each to take us to the whiskey village, Pak Ou Cave and Waterfalls. It was quite a frustrating experience at the caves because a) they were crap b) they took us ages to get to c) they were in the complete opposite direction to the waterfall which is where I really wanted to be going, and d) because when we arrived at the village we had to fork out more money to get a boat to the caves. 'Just' a pound here and there but I am over budget and it annoys me. Everything is a scam here, he obviously wanted to put buisness his friends way because we could have driven the tuk tuk opposite the caves and got a cheap crossing over the river but no we had to get a boat each way from the village which was a bit naughty because we thought for the 50,000 we would be taken to all three places without any extra expense. When we came out of the caves which were just a couple of holes with shed loads of buddha images, our boat man was nowhere to be found, he had obviously picked up another fare which meant we would be waiting up to an hour or more for him to return (it took us 30 mins to get here by boat.) I was really frustrated because the caves were supposed to be a quick thing before the waterfalls (I know I should get used to laos time but we're leaving tomorrow!) so to cut a looooong story short we arrived at the waterfall as most people were leaving (it took 2 hours to get there from the caves, and the guys stopped to grab some food too all things taking time away from waterfall time!). They were absolutely stunning and I can only imagine how wonderful it would have been to actually been there for the best part of the day chilling out and swimming, jumping off the ledge and swinging out on the rock swing. I bumped into a guy who remembered me from around the camp fire in Pai. We had a fantastic time for the hour or so that we were there. You wernt supposed to swim where the actual large waterfall was (the swimming areas were lower down where the swimming pools formed with more gently undulating water.) But this was the best bit by far, probably even more so knowing we shouldn'y, and it was a right laugh. If you're reading this, and ever come to Luang Prabang, skip the crap caves and go to the waterfall.
On the way home another scam - we went via the bus station to find out times for tomorrows trip to Vang Vien and were told the local bus was 'broken' but our tuk tuk driver actually told us they tell us that to tourists to make us get the VIP bus which I suspected anyway. Laos is actually more expensive than Thailand and I am just not enjoying it in the same way because nothing is simple, nothing is straightforward and everyone is out to get what they can out of you and there's absolutely nothing anyone can to about it because its like blackmail you are often left with no choice. For example, where out boat driver was not waiting for us as he said he would be, we had to pay again to cross the river to get another boat back to the whiskey village. A couple who had chartered a boat for their personal use were happy us jumping on and dropping us off at the whiskey village but the driver wanted 10,000 out of us each or he wouldn't drive the couple round anymore. Its really hard I know the locals arn't rich but neither are we and I cant stand dishonesty. I find Laos really hard because you are basiccaly being scammed all the time. I find myself craving for the relative familiarity of Thailand and wonder what I should do for the rest of my trip. I am going over budget every bloody day because of the unexpected 'extra's' which does my head in - and my accomodation is expensive too. Ok Carla its all relative, your still paying under a fiver! I am looking forward to Vang Viang but if this continues I will plan to spend my last 2 weeks in Thailand (all the land crossing visa will allow unless I get a cheap flight) and chill out in thai beeches and maybe go to Karachin which people have raved about. I have yet to experience true Laos unless its just a load of dishonest blags and scams which I have already witnessed abundantly. At least I'm with a good bunch of people and get on well with my room mates the dutch guys Bas and David which are really decent. Some of the others can be a bit irritating at times (mainly when drunk and loud which in Laos really sticks out like a sore thumb), and also are more into the party / drugs scene which sets me apart a bit but its OK its not a big issue. Can't wait to leave this place even though I do grudgingly admit it has a certain charm, espeicaly the colourful night market. Wonder what the girls experience has been like. Havn't been able to access wireless yet. Should I have not left Thailand?
I went for a little walk by myself and ate by the river as everyone else wanted to eat in the curry place from yesterday. I actually had a Laos style chicken curry which was absolutely delicious and I think I just needed some space. Nutella pancake was also the answer to my dreams as I have craved chocolate since I got to South East Asia! Laos is so far not at all what I expected - I have heard such great things about it - but to be fair all I've really done is travel here on a boat and been in one town. I've got to give it a chance. Im really weird when Im alone I want company and then when I have it it starts doing my head in. Anyway, I found some of the others on the way back and wandered back and packed and watched MTV. These rooms are really very nice indeed in fact they're seperate little bugalows with dark teak decor, very tastefully done. I'm in the room alone at the moment which is also nice as I realise I havnt really had any chill time - I'm out all day then out all eve if I was like that at home I'd be pretty exhausted.
I am considering what to do next. Basically, should I take my time more and see Laos in depth and perhaps Cambodia or should I keep moving and see Vietnam too (have heard mixed things about it and would likely be a lone female which may be an issue?) My thoughts have also turned to India if they do let me delay the 2nd leg of my flight and whether I could do some sort of voluntary work there rather than here - I dont really feel a connection with Laos like I did with Thailand. But apparantly the poverty in India is heartbreaking.
Money spent: Water 5000 (40p), orange juice (40p) 5000, Taxi 50,000 (4 Pounds) Admission caves 20,000 (1.60) food breakfast 25,000 (2 pounds), lunch 8,000 (64 p), boats 20,000 (1.60), waterfalls 20,000 (1.60) bus ticket tomorrow 60,000 (4.80). coke 5000 (40p), little beer beer 8000 (64p) 25,000 Laos style chicken curry (2 pounds), 5,000 nutella pancake (40p) TOTAL 20.48
Best thing: The waterfalls, especially swimming under it even though we wern't supposed to ;) = and nutella pancake!
Worst thing: The bloody caves, Laos scams at every bloody turn which are doing my nut in.
Jacob woke us up at 9am and after persuading some of the guys to get up (Sienna came and jumped on Bas and Davids bed blaring music which they so did not apreciate!) had a lovely american breakfast for 2 quid which included orange juice and coffee which was a real treat. 8 of us (Jonathan wouldnt get his arse outta bed!) chartered a tuk tuk for 50,000 (4 quid) each to take us to the whiskey village, Pak Ou Cave and Waterfalls. It was quite a frustrating experience at the caves because a) they were crap b) they took us ages to get to c) they were in the complete opposite direction to the waterfall which is where I really wanted to be going, and d) because when we arrived at the village we had to fork out more money to get a boat to the caves. 'Just' a pound here and there but I am over budget and it annoys me. Everything is a scam here, he obviously wanted to put buisness his friends way because we could have driven the tuk tuk opposite the caves and got a cheap crossing over the river but no we had to get a boat each way from the village which was a bit naughty because we thought for the 50,000 we would be taken to all three places without any extra expense. When we came out of the caves which were just a couple of holes with shed loads of buddha images, our boat man was nowhere to be found, he had obviously picked up another fare which meant we would be waiting up to an hour or more for him to return (it took us 30 mins to get here by boat.) I was really frustrated because the caves were supposed to be a quick thing before the waterfalls (I know I should get used to laos time but we're leaving tomorrow!) so to cut a looooong story short we arrived at the waterfall as most people were leaving (it took 2 hours to get there from the caves, and the guys stopped to grab some food too all things taking time away from waterfall time!). They were absolutely stunning and I can only imagine how wonderful it would have been to actually been there for the best part of the day chilling out and swimming, jumping off the ledge and swinging out on the rock swing. I bumped into a guy who remembered me from around the camp fire in Pai. We had a fantastic time for the hour or so that we were there. You wernt supposed to swim where the actual large waterfall was (the swimming areas were lower down where the swimming pools formed with more gently undulating water.) But this was the best bit by far, probably even more so knowing we shouldn'y, and it was a right laugh. If you're reading this, and ever come to Luang Prabang, skip the crap caves and go to the waterfall.
On the way home another scam - we went via the bus station to find out times for tomorrows trip to Vang Vien and were told the local bus was 'broken' but our tuk tuk driver actually told us they tell us that to tourists to make us get the VIP bus which I suspected anyway. Laos is actually more expensive than Thailand and I am just not enjoying it in the same way because nothing is simple, nothing is straightforward and everyone is out to get what they can out of you and there's absolutely nothing anyone can to about it because its like blackmail you are often left with no choice. For example, where out boat driver was not waiting for us as he said he would be, we had to pay again to cross the river to get another boat back to the whiskey village. A couple who had chartered a boat for their personal use were happy us jumping on and dropping us off at the whiskey village but the driver wanted 10,000 out of us each or he wouldn't drive the couple round anymore. Its really hard I know the locals arn't rich but neither are we and I cant stand dishonesty. I find Laos really hard because you are basiccaly being scammed all the time. I find myself craving for the relative familiarity of Thailand and wonder what I should do for the rest of my trip. I am going over budget every bloody day because of the unexpected 'extra's' which does my head in - and my accomodation is expensive too. Ok Carla its all relative, your still paying under a fiver! I am looking forward to Vang Viang but if this continues I will plan to spend my last 2 weeks in Thailand (all the land crossing visa will allow unless I get a cheap flight) and chill out in thai beeches and maybe go to Karachin which people have raved about. I have yet to experience true Laos unless its just a load of dishonest blags and scams which I have already witnessed abundantly. At least I'm with a good bunch of people and get on well with my room mates the dutch guys Bas and David which are really decent. Some of the others can be a bit irritating at times (mainly when drunk and loud which in Laos really sticks out like a sore thumb), and also are more into the party / drugs scene which sets me apart a bit but its OK its not a big issue. Can't wait to leave this place even though I do grudgingly admit it has a certain charm, espeicaly the colourful night market. Wonder what the girls experience has been like. Havn't been able to access wireless yet. Should I have not left Thailand?
I went for a little walk by myself and ate by the river as everyone else wanted to eat in the curry place from yesterday. I actually had a Laos style chicken curry which was absolutely delicious and I think I just needed some space. Nutella pancake was also the answer to my dreams as I have craved chocolate since I got to South East Asia! Laos is so far not at all what I expected - I have heard such great things about it - but to be fair all I've really done is travel here on a boat and been in one town. I've got to give it a chance. Im really weird when Im alone I want company and then when I have it it starts doing my head in. Anyway, I found some of the others on the way back and wandered back and packed and watched MTV. These rooms are really very nice indeed in fact they're seperate little bugalows with dark teak decor, very tastefully done. I'm in the room alone at the moment which is also nice as I realise I havnt really had any chill time - I'm out all day then out all eve if I was like that at home I'd be pretty exhausted.
I am considering what to do next. Basically, should I take my time more and see Laos in depth and perhaps Cambodia or should I keep moving and see Vietnam too (have heard mixed things about it and would likely be a lone female which may be an issue?) My thoughts have also turned to India if they do let me delay the 2nd leg of my flight and whether I could do some sort of voluntary work there rather than here - I dont really feel a connection with Laos like I did with Thailand. But apparantly the poverty in India is heartbreaking.
Money spent: Water 5000 (40p), orange juice (40p) 5000, Taxi 50,000 (4 Pounds) Admission caves 20,000 (1.60) food breakfast 25,000 (2 pounds), lunch 8,000 (64 p), boats 20,000 (1.60), waterfalls 20,000 (1.60) bus ticket tomorrow 60,000 (4.80). coke 5000 (40p), little beer beer 8000 (64p) 25,000 Laos style chicken curry (2 pounds), 5,000 nutella pancake (40p) TOTAL 20.48
Best thing: The waterfalls, especially swimming under it even though we wern't supposed to ;) = and nutella pancake!
Worst thing: The bloody caves, Laos scams at every bloody turn which are doing my nut in.
Sunday 1st March - Luang Prabang
Sunday 1st March - Luang Prabang
Today slept in really really late cause felt shattered. Everyone else had gone for breakfast, and Tom had left at about 5.30am. Me and David headed off for some breakfast and crossed paths with the other guys coming back from filling their own bellies. Once I had my (now traditional) banana pancake for brekkie (must buy some syrup!) we headed off to see the main Wats of Luang Prabang. First we went to the Royal Palace Museum which is where the king used to live and entertain his guests. It had some wonderful designs on the inside but actually very modest compared to what you would normally expect for a Royal Palace, perhaps reflecting the developing status of Laos even in comparison to Thailand. Laos apparantly no longer has a King, but a government. We wandered down the road and had a beer (well the guys did I just got a nice orange juice from the market was soo thirsty in the heat.) It's still quite hot here and not the kind of place to rush around. We split from Ruddy, (durex) Jonathan and Jack who basically wanted to take in the local culture by drinking beer and chilling! - and headed towards Wat Xieng Thong which was a lovely wat full of chararacter and Luang Prabangs 'most magnificent temple' built in 1560. Again, modest in comparison to others I have seen in my travellers in South East Asia so far, but still lovely and had a glittering 'tree of life' mosaic on the outside wall of the main sanctuary (sim) which was most effective when the sun shone directly on it.
The temple was situated near the northern tip of the peninsula formed by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, and upon leaving we found a spot to have a quick snack with a beautiful view of the impending sunset. However, that particular event was something we planned to see from the top of the Wat Phu Si, which was a steep climb to get to but has panoramic views of the city and surrounding area ruled by a red sun (it always turns a proper red near sunset I dont thing I've seen this in any other country I have visited). Unfortunately the clouds prevented us from seeing it in its full glory, and we eventually admitted defeat and wandered back to the guest house. I was sorry to have asked for a mattress - basically I am moving in with the dutch guys because it is cheaper supposedly for all of us ie the room is 100,000 kip which should be 2.70 each, but they wanted more money even though our friends were paying 100,000 for three people! I fell out with the guy because I basically get really angry that one price is quoted then it changes and then it changes again. Basically they want an extra 40,000 kip a night (3.20) so total 12.80 or 4.30 for me to be in exactly the same room as all the other people in our crowd who are paying 100,000 (8.00) total or 2.70 each for three people. It really pisses me off! They're really sensative here but obviously lacking in fairness and common sense.
Ok so I'm annoyed, Had a good evening bowling, of all things. I come to Laos...and go bowling! Everywhere we go now we see people we met on the boat. Caves and waterfall tomorrow...its now 3am and even though I know Im tired I dont think Im gonna sleep. Just found a massive creepy crawly creature in the bathroom and thats not great because I'm sleeping on the floor...!
Money spent: Breakfast (pancake) 15,000 kip (1.20). water 3,000 kip (2.40), cigarettes 5000 kip (40 pence), orange juice 2000 kip (16p), entrance to museum and 2 wats 60,000 (4.80), fries (shared) 7,500 kip (60p), coke (shared) 3,500 kip (28 pence) beer 100,000 kip (80P), dinner 37,500 (chicken korma shared rice 1 naan) (3 pounds) 3 games bowling 360,000 (2.90), tuk tuks 10,000 (80p). TOTAL: 17.34
Best thing: Tree of life mosaic at Wat Xieng Thong and dinner over the river.
Worse thing: Arsehole guest house owner.
Today slept in really really late cause felt shattered. Everyone else had gone for breakfast, and Tom had left at about 5.30am. Me and David headed off for some breakfast and crossed paths with the other guys coming back from filling their own bellies. Once I had my (now traditional) banana pancake for brekkie (must buy some syrup!) we headed off to see the main Wats of Luang Prabang. First we went to the Royal Palace Museum which is where the king used to live and entertain his guests. It had some wonderful designs on the inside but actually very modest compared to what you would normally expect for a Royal Palace, perhaps reflecting the developing status of Laos even in comparison to Thailand. Laos apparantly no longer has a King, but a government. We wandered down the road and had a beer (well the guys did I just got a nice orange juice from the market was soo thirsty in the heat.) It's still quite hot here and not the kind of place to rush around. We split from Ruddy, (durex) Jonathan and Jack who basically wanted to take in the local culture by drinking beer and chilling! - and headed towards Wat Xieng Thong which was a lovely wat full of chararacter and Luang Prabangs 'most magnificent temple' built in 1560. Again, modest in comparison to others I have seen in my travellers in South East Asia so far, but still lovely and had a glittering 'tree of life' mosaic on the outside wall of the main sanctuary (sim) which was most effective when the sun shone directly on it.
The temple was situated near the northern tip of the peninsula formed by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, and upon leaving we found a spot to have a quick snack with a beautiful view of the impending sunset. However, that particular event was something we planned to see from the top of the Wat Phu Si, which was a steep climb to get to but has panoramic views of the city and surrounding area ruled by a red sun (it always turns a proper red near sunset I dont thing I've seen this in any other country I have visited). Unfortunately the clouds prevented us from seeing it in its full glory, and we eventually admitted defeat and wandered back to the guest house. I was sorry to have asked for a mattress - basically I am moving in with the dutch guys because it is cheaper supposedly for all of us ie the room is 100,000 kip which should be 2.70 each, but they wanted more money even though our friends were paying 100,000 for three people! I fell out with the guy because I basically get really angry that one price is quoted then it changes and then it changes again. Basically they want an extra 40,000 kip a night (3.20) so total 12.80 or 4.30 for me to be in exactly the same room as all the other people in our crowd who are paying 100,000 (8.00) total or 2.70 each for three people. It really pisses me off! They're really sensative here but obviously lacking in fairness and common sense.
Ok so I'm annoyed, Had a good evening bowling, of all things. I come to Laos...and go bowling! Everywhere we go now we see people we met on the boat. Caves and waterfall tomorrow...its now 3am and even though I know Im tired I dont think Im gonna sleep. Just found a massive creepy crawly creature in the bathroom and thats not great because I'm sleeping on the floor...!
Money spent: Breakfast (pancake) 15,000 kip (1.20). water 3,000 kip (2.40), cigarettes 5000 kip (40 pence), orange juice 2000 kip (16p), entrance to museum and 2 wats 60,000 (4.80), fries (shared) 7,500 kip (60p), coke (shared) 3,500 kip (28 pence) beer 100,000 kip (80P), dinner 37,500 (chicken korma shared rice 1 naan) (3 pounds) 3 games bowling 360,000 (2.90), tuk tuks 10,000 (80p). TOTAL: 17.34
Best thing: Tree of life mosaic at Wat Xieng Thong and dinner over the river.
Worse thing: Arsehole guest house owner.
Saturday 28th Feb - 2nd day Laos (Mekong.)
Saturday 28th Feb - 2nd day Laos (Mekong.)
Last night was really quite amusing even though I got about zero hours sleep. Jack basically snored, or breathed so heavily he may as well have (not to mention the occassional snorts that were so loud they even woke him up), Jonathan (despite saying if he was by a wall he would stick like glue to it) still managed to flail around and toss and turn on an extermely bouncy mattress that felt like a trampoline every time the tiniest movement was made and Tom, well actualy he was as quiet as a mouse. But yeah the bed was possibly the worst in my whole time in south east asia. I made up for it though on the ferry, borrowing Jacks sleeping bag to catch up on a couple of hours contorting my body into various interesting positions aboard in a bid to stay warm (was very cold at first especially with the wind) and be sufficiantly secure to fall asleep. Se all started off in our seats but soon were draped in every possible places including the engine room which was so loud you had to shout to hear each other.
It was a good 8 hours later we finally arrived in Luang Prabang. I think this is where I will begin to experience true Laos as I have to say my experiences thus far have not been great in interactions with the locals even though its been a right laugh with the gang I am hanging out with. I met even more people on the boat (why can't it be this easy to chat to strangers in england?) including a 60 year old american disheartened with the credit crunch in america and taking pride in hanging out with other budget travellers. He was a really nice guy and even gave me some cookies as I was so hungry it's weird this last couple of days my appetite has really increased which isn't gonna help my budget I wonder if it is my pills.
We went out for a meal in Luang Prabang which was quite realistically the best meal I have ever had in my entire life. Possibly because I was so ridiculously hungry possibly because it was al fresco, but it was a real experience in itself, cooking one's own noodles and vegetables and bufallo meat and pork and chicken on a fire in a pot on a fire in the middle of the table in a style much more sophistated than a camp fire! Me and Bas shared a dish that claimed to be 'more than enough for 2 people' and actually should have been, and Jonathan and Durex shared the same, but we still ordered more noodles and meat it was just soooo delicious and we thought sod the budget we had spent 2 days on a boat and felt like treating ourselves.
I also had the first glass of decent red wine my whole trip and overall felt like I was in some sort of seventh heaven. This was travelling this was the life.
Best thing: Being given a lonely planet guide to south east asia by Tom and also the evening Laos meal.
Worst thing: Yelling to Robbie 'Johnny' repeatedly in the bar to get his attention in Luang Prabang after bumping into a crowd from Thailand... and everyone hearing I got the name wrong...embarassing.
Money spent: 60 baht (banana pancake) (1.20) 40 baht lunch sandwich (80 Pence), 5000 kip 3 waters (40p), 40,000 kip accomodation (3.20). 6.20 so far...then 10,000 beer (80 pence) and 90,000 meal (7.20) TOTAL: 13.60
Last night was really quite amusing even though I got about zero hours sleep. Jack basically snored, or breathed so heavily he may as well have (not to mention the occassional snorts that were so loud they even woke him up), Jonathan (despite saying if he was by a wall he would stick like glue to it) still managed to flail around and toss and turn on an extermely bouncy mattress that felt like a trampoline every time the tiniest movement was made and Tom, well actualy he was as quiet as a mouse. But yeah the bed was possibly the worst in my whole time in south east asia. I made up for it though on the ferry, borrowing Jacks sleeping bag to catch up on a couple of hours contorting my body into various interesting positions aboard in a bid to stay warm (was very cold at first especially with the wind) and be sufficiantly secure to fall asleep. Se all started off in our seats but soon were draped in every possible places including the engine room which was so loud you had to shout to hear each other.
It was a good 8 hours later we finally arrived in Luang Prabang. I think this is where I will begin to experience true Laos as I have to say my experiences thus far have not been great in interactions with the locals even though its been a right laugh with the gang I am hanging out with. I met even more people on the boat (why can't it be this easy to chat to strangers in england?) including a 60 year old american disheartened with the credit crunch in america and taking pride in hanging out with other budget travellers. He was a really nice guy and even gave me some cookies as I was so hungry it's weird this last couple of days my appetite has really increased which isn't gonna help my budget I wonder if it is my pills.
We went out for a meal in Luang Prabang which was quite realistically the best meal I have ever had in my entire life. Possibly because I was so ridiculously hungry possibly because it was al fresco, but it was a real experience in itself, cooking one's own noodles and vegetables and bufallo meat and pork and chicken on a fire in a pot on a fire in the middle of the table in a style much more sophistated than a camp fire! Me and Bas shared a dish that claimed to be 'more than enough for 2 people' and actually should have been, and Jonathan and Durex shared the same, but we still ordered more noodles and meat it was just soooo delicious and we thought sod the budget we had spent 2 days on a boat and felt like treating ourselves.
I also had the first glass of decent red wine my whole trip and overall felt like I was in some sort of seventh heaven. This was travelling this was the life.
Best thing: Being given a lonely planet guide to south east asia by Tom and also the evening Laos meal.
Worst thing: Yelling to Robbie 'Johnny' repeatedly in the bar to get his attention in Luang Prabang after bumping into a crowd from Thailand... and everyone hearing I got the name wrong...embarassing.
Money spent: 60 baht (banana pancake) (1.20) 40 baht lunch sandwich (80 Pence), 5000 kip 3 waters (40p), 40,000 kip accomodation (3.20). 6.20 so far...then 10,000 beer (80 pence) and 90,000 meal (7.20) TOTAL: 13.60
Friday 27th Feb - Mekong River, Laos day 1
Friday 27th Feb - Mekong River, Laos day 1
What a weird day. I woke up 8 ish and grabbed a quick shower and a banana pancake from my guest house before trekking the short distance to the ferry port. The ticket was 25 USD and at first it didnt look as though there would be many people on the boat, I wondered if I should have bit the bullet and got the notorious speedboat but I didn't want to risk all my electronic stuff being lost to the depths of the Mekong river (actually it's quite shallow at the moment hence speedboats are a bit of a liability on the rocks!)
The slow boat was due to leave at 11.30am and shortly after this a whole load of english and various travellers rushed on board so it looked as though things were looking up. Soon got chatting to a bunch of them and basically the journey passed quite enjoyably and swiftly, drinking beer and getting to know the various nationalities. There were a couple of American girls from Seattle, a beautiful girl Erin who I got chatting to about american politics and my general lack of knowledge! - and her friend Serina and their dutch travelling companion of a couple of months, Jacob who was 6 foot and rather good looking. There were a couple of English guys whose lonely planet I kept nicking, as basically I have no information on this country which is out of character for me and makes me feel a bit insecure! As the day progressed I also got to know another dutch guy who I have aptly named 'durex' (at first due to the first pet plus mothers maiden name creating your porn name game) who quite possibly is one of the funnist people I have ever met. He has a whole wealth of hilarious and increduous stories centred around one subject about which he seems truly obsessed, I'm sure you can guess what... Other than that I was really happy to see the 2 friendly dutch guys Bas and David, who I had briefly met in Pai as they lived next door to me at the gorgeous huts over the bamboo river. Tom, a quiet but nice english guy from Wiltshire was also in the crowd and Jonathan, an essex sounding dude from Kent was was travelling. So all in all it was a good bunch, bar a few cringe-worthy moments where I felt a little like 'brits abroad' - the crowd as a whole were being quite loud and drinking and generally taking over the boat. Im aware of the kind of peception people have of young westerners on holiday and I wasn't over the moon to be fitting the stereotype - there is such a contrast to the locals or other asian tourist who sit quietly and unobtrusively. It was the same in the restaraunt where there was a near punch-up....! But they were trying to short change erin! Also they are not used to females standing up to men here.
Upon arriving at some random village for the night (Pak Ben), a whole load of us bunched together to find accomodation to get a better deal, and secured rooms for 150 baht which was a bit of a bargain but in random ways that only really happen when travelling I ended up in a room with 3 english lads, sharing a bed with Jonathan, and Jack and Tom squashed together on a mattress on the floor. It was very surreal as the village only had electricity for 3 hours each night and so when we rolled in at around 11 (things dont really go on much longer in Laos as we were to findout - there is midnight curfew) - in shock we realised that the rumours were indeed true and so we fumbled with lighters and torches to sort ourselves out! Pak Ben really is in the middle of nowhere, no ATM damn it! - and I think we were viewed as rich tourists to be scammed. I find the whole subject quite a difficult one though as being ripped off is a relative concept. When we had our meal we were short-changed but it is genuinely so confusing with the mixing of baht and kip. So far Laos hasnt really been what I was expecting but equally Im in with a crowd of people having a laugh and I will have a crowd to chill and hang out with in Luang Prabang. I have decided I am going to enjoy Laos and take it as it comes. If I catch up with my friends that'll be cool but if thats all I try and do Ill miss out on experiences along the way. I am already realising that 2 months is a ridiculously short amount of time to do 4 countries and in true Carla fashion I want it all and dont want to compromise by not doing certain things.
Best thing: Hanging out with old and new people
Worst thing: Feeling like a typical brit abroad and part of a scene occuring where we ate, were short-changed and where a fight nearly broke out.
Money spent: boat 25 USD pancakes (17.86) and water 80 baht (1.60), beer 40 baht (80p), accomodation 50 baht (1 pound), dinner 23,000 kip (1.84)
TOTAL: 23.10.
What a weird day. I woke up 8 ish and grabbed a quick shower and a banana pancake from my guest house before trekking the short distance to the ferry port. The ticket was 25 USD and at first it didnt look as though there would be many people on the boat, I wondered if I should have bit the bullet and got the notorious speedboat but I didn't want to risk all my electronic stuff being lost to the depths of the Mekong river (actually it's quite shallow at the moment hence speedboats are a bit of a liability on the rocks!)
The slow boat was due to leave at 11.30am and shortly after this a whole load of english and various travellers rushed on board so it looked as though things were looking up. Soon got chatting to a bunch of them and basically the journey passed quite enjoyably and swiftly, drinking beer and getting to know the various nationalities. There were a couple of American girls from Seattle, a beautiful girl Erin who I got chatting to about american politics and my general lack of knowledge! - and her friend Serina and their dutch travelling companion of a couple of months, Jacob who was 6 foot and rather good looking. There were a couple of English guys whose lonely planet I kept nicking, as basically I have no information on this country which is out of character for me and makes me feel a bit insecure! As the day progressed I also got to know another dutch guy who I have aptly named 'durex' (at first due to the first pet plus mothers maiden name creating your porn name game) who quite possibly is one of the funnist people I have ever met. He has a whole wealth of hilarious and increduous stories centred around one subject about which he seems truly obsessed, I'm sure you can guess what... Other than that I was really happy to see the 2 friendly dutch guys Bas and David, who I had briefly met in Pai as they lived next door to me at the gorgeous huts over the bamboo river. Tom, a quiet but nice english guy from Wiltshire was also in the crowd and Jonathan, an essex sounding dude from Kent was was travelling. So all in all it was a good bunch, bar a few cringe-worthy moments where I felt a little like 'brits abroad' - the crowd as a whole were being quite loud and drinking and generally taking over the boat. Im aware of the kind of peception people have of young westerners on holiday and I wasn't over the moon to be fitting the stereotype - there is such a contrast to the locals or other asian tourist who sit quietly and unobtrusively. It was the same in the restaraunt where there was a near punch-up....! But they were trying to short change erin! Also they are not used to females standing up to men here.
Upon arriving at some random village for the night (Pak Ben), a whole load of us bunched together to find accomodation to get a better deal, and secured rooms for 150 baht which was a bit of a bargain but in random ways that only really happen when travelling I ended up in a room with 3 english lads, sharing a bed with Jonathan, and Jack and Tom squashed together on a mattress on the floor. It was very surreal as the village only had electricity for 3 hours each night and so when we rolled in at around 11 (things dont really go on much longer in Laos as we were to findout - there is midnight curfew) - in shock we realised that the rumours were indeed true and so we fumbled with lighters and torches to sort ourselves out! Pak Ben really is in the middle of nowhere, no ATM damn it! - and I think we were viewed as rich tourists to be scammed. I find the whole subject quite a difficult one though as being ripped off is a relative concept. When we had our meal we were short-changed but it is genuinely so confusing with the mixing of baht and kip. So far Laos hasnt really been what I was expecting but equally Im in with a crowd of people having a laugh and I will have a crowd to chill and hang out with in Luang Prabang. I have decided I am going to enjoy Laos and take it as it comes. If I catch up with my friends that'll be cool but if thats all I try and do Ill miss out on experiences along the way. I am already realising that 2 months is a ridiculously short amount of time to do 4 countries and in true Carla fashion I want it all and dont want to compromise by not doing certain things.
Best thing: Hanging out with old and new people
Worst thing: Feeling like a typical brit abroad and part of a scene occuring where we ate, were short-changed and where a fight nearly broke out.
Money spent: boat 25 USD pancakes (17.86) and water 80 baht (1.60), beer 40 baht (80p), accomodation 50 baht (1 pound), dinner 23,000 kip (1.84)
TOTAL: 23.10.
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