II have written my past few posts in a rush so excuse them!)
Sapa (2 days 3 nights) returning 1st.
I was supposed to be in the travel shop at 7.30pm ready for the 1st 'night' of the tour which was actually overnight on the train. I met a couple of cool germans in my bus to get to the train station then ended up in a compartment with 3 other semi interesting people but not anyone I naturally clicked with so I just tried to sleep. Uncuccesfully. It was quite possibly one of the worst nights I have ever had. Smooth is not the adjective I would use. I felt like I was being thrown around in my bunk, to the smell of smoke and loud harsh Vietmanese voices which sounded like a riot whenever the train stopped at any station as people got on and off.
It was a further hour and a half from the train station into Sapa, arriving at 6.30am to be told breakfast was at 8.30! Fortunately the german couple I met who were staying in the hotel offered me a shower and use of their room which was fabulous as I even got to blow dry my hair for the first time in 3 months! I was dissapointed to realise we were not on the same walking tour (because I was doing a 'homestay' tonight we were doing a different itinary) but I did chat a lot to a girl Emily on my trek who was there with her husband Chang, who both live in Hong Kong. Apparantly because the other group had got muddy and wet the day before the hotel told our guide, a local tribesperson, to take us the 'clean' way to the first village which was just a concrete road and not the trek I had envisaged! We wernt very happy when we found that out! Food was included in the tour and so at the first place we stopped for lunch because we didnt buy their inflated priced drinks they decided they didnt want to serve us (we worked that out after being there over an hour) and our guide had to double as waitress for us to be fed...!
There was a whole herd of local tribespeople who had gathered aoutside of the hotel to accompany us on our treks. Many had limited english, and asked the same questions (whats your name, where are you from, how old are you!) They all had a youthful quality about them, even the obviously older and more wrinkly ones! A couple were carrying babies on their backs. Their tribal costumre was beatiful and colourful and intricate in design. I saw my guide working on a piece of cloth in the evening at the homestay and I began to appreciate how much time and effort goes into embriodering a very small area. They make their own clothes, and I would expect if they were sold for their true worth, they would be an absolute fortune.
Arriving at the homestay I had a kip and then got up to observe dinner being prepared. It is a wok over a fire, and a typical Vietmanese spread made up of several dishes of rice, meats, and vegetables, and very delicious! Its not the homestay I had in mind though, this place is more like a guest house where we would be served as guests. One day I want to live and work with local people, live as one of the family otherwise its not much different to being in a hotel. But you always take a gamble when signing up so such things, and I did still enjoy the experienece.
The evening was quite amusing actually - a neighbour visited, and they plied us with rice wine and there was one other german girl there who after dinner I went on a late night walk with and we got completely lost, both completely sank our right feet in mud, and generally we were in an unknown village in the mountains and in the mist, we didnt know the name of our homstay or the names of our guides, we walked round and round to no avial until finally one of the local tribespeople recognised us from earlier in the day and led us back!
The bed was quite possibly one of the most comfortable I have stayed in and thankfully had a nice warm duvet (I had stuffed my day pack with clothes as I was so scared it would be freezing!)
The second day was much better trekking, and the rain held off. It really is beautiful here. And I really like my guide. Its a bit sad though as she was the eldest of several children she didnt get an education - basically working in the fields from the age of ten. She has been learning english for 10 years just by talking to tourists, and is obviouly intelligent, I hope she realises her ambitions but its hard without the money to begin with. I was also cross because she said she had been employed by this hotel for a month now without seeing any money, and the homestay had been putting people up for 2 months without seeing any money. She doesnt think she will get it. Apparantly thats the way things are here. She was also telling us about marriages and how they are either set up by their parents or have to be approved by their parents - but its all about whether they are compatibal according to 'the book' which must be based on star signs or something. Thet do not have rings, but silver bangles, and there is a dowry. I asked if she had missed not marrying for love, and she said she didnt know any different.
The train back was quite possibly the worst tranport experience I have had thus far. It was dirty, had rubbish in, reeked of urine, the guy in front of me put his smelly feet on my seat, a baby pucked in the chair to my left and I was the only westender in the carriage. Worst of all I was stuck on it for 10 hours overnight, on a hard seat as the sleepers were full by the time I booked! The one good thing is it gave me a good opportunity to get stuck into my book which is a fantasy I am reallly enjoying. But travel isnt just about the good times, its about the variety of experiences. Hopefully this will be a one off but at least its all character building and prepares me well for India! Lol.
Summary
I have to admit I am looking forward to leaving Vietnam. Out of the countries I have visited thus far it has been my least favourite overall. My highlights here have been Hoi An which is beautiful and full of charm, Mui Nei which was lovely and relaxing but also fun with the sand sledging! Nha Trang where I did my advanced diving and danced in the sand under the water with Euston- and Halong Bay, a lovely last few days with Nate, meeting the nutter president Leighton and having one of the best nights I've had on my travels in a stunning environment, - and of course meeting the very special crowd of people I hung out with at most points along the way who I am going to miss a lot. Oh, and the MAG music festival in Hanoi which was a blast and I got to dance on the stage at the end! So really, Ive been a lucky girl and shouldnt complain... However, ones impression of a place is also generated by those that live there and generally speaking I find the Vietmanese (especially men) very rude. I also had my camera nicked which didn't help! The weather is turning so there is more rain which gives a different feel to any environment. They all talk at the top of their voices, often shouting, or barking might be a more apt word. It makes you think a fight is going to break out at any minute because it sounds agreesive and confrontational! The trains are really dirty. I have not slept well on the sleeper buses. It is not so bad in a group but I had spent a good 2 days where I have been the only westerner and the percentage of friendly people is much lower than elsewhere. Everyone is out to scam you which I am more used to after 3 months but the difficulty here is you have to trust people even undeservedly. Nobody will ever give you objective inforation as all they are interested in is selling you their tour. The other very trying aspect of Vietnam is the amount of hassle you get. Interesting, Sapa was the worst. You simply could not sit and have a drink or a chat or a chill without the local tribespeople literally crowding round you and just waiting and following everywhere you went. Sometimes it got a bit much. I think the novelty has worn off and I am ready for India, with a little stop in Malaysia first...!
I just hope I can get on my flight as I dont have proof of onward travel and cant physically get it until going into a jetair office in Kuala Lumpa. All because they wont except payment of 30 pounds over the phone under the conditions of my ticket. Honestly.
Tuesday, 5 May 2009
Hanoi and Halong Bay
Hanoi and Halong Bay
The city of Hanoi is the central hub for all things worthy of sightseeing in northern Vietnam, with a population of 3.5 million. We were there one night before going on a 2 nigt 3 day cruise to Halong Bay. Then I was there a few days afterwards while waiting for my India Visa.
Arriving on the overnight bus with Nate, we traipsed around with Adam and Catherine (2 people he had previously travelled with who happened to be on our bus) to find a hotel but they're not going cheap in this place! Found one eventually and I rushed out to sort my visa for India. Dissapointingly, because of a public holiday I will not be able to spend the 4 or 5 days in Sapa that I intended to as otherwise I cannot collect my passport and visa before I fly to Kuala Lumpa. Hanoi is as crazy as Ho Chi Min with loads of motorbikes but it also has character, especially in the old quarter where each road seems to be dedicated to a different item!
In the afternoon after some internet stuff we got a cylco to see the lake but to be honest I was feeling very tired after the overnight bus ride and it wasn't all that. In the evening I saw my friends breifly at Hello Vietnam which seems to be the cheapest place to stay, and looked around at some places to book our trip to Sapa. My card wasn't working which threw a spanner in the works but paid the 3 mil using Nates cash just before the travel office closed. I'm looking forward to Halong Bay but feel very sad that afterwards me and Nate will go our seperate ways. Probably the reason for my black mood.
Halong Bay Day 1
The natural wonder of Halong Bay consists of 3000 'islands' or limescale cliffs rising from the gulf of Tonskin, and is a Unesco World Heritage sight. Nathan and I went on an organised trip for 86 USD for 2 nights and 3 days consisting of a cruise, visit to awesome caves and grottos, kayaking, visit to Cat Ba Island, and an overnighter to the secluded 'Monkey Island'. Oh and some karaoke, pirates and apparitions thrown in as an added extra...
We set off early on a 3 1/2 hour bus ride, stopping at the obligatory arty type expensive places where backpackers never make any purchases anyway! We were trying to slyly find out what others had paid for the same trip because I was worried that going slightly upmarket may not actually benefit us in any way. But we were pleasantly surpised by the boat - it was cute, clean, had a deck with sunloungers and mine and nates room shared our own little balcony out the back. The food was really great too, the first evening we enjoyed seafood and for a backpacker the whole situation felt uncommonly classy! The weather was not clear, it has defintely turned the last few weeks, but it made the rock formations look mysterious protruding through the mist. There were seemingly endless rock formations - I knew Halong bay had a reputation for a reason but this surpassed my expectations. I was really excited to be on such a nice boat feeling like a holiday maker and not a skanky backpacker! We had craftily smuggled on some vodka and coke too expecting expensive prices on board - which we were absolutely right about - but they wanted 5 dollars for every bottle you brought on! So like naughty teenagers we bought a can of coke and then kept going back to the room to refill with our own supplies! The whole evening was a blast. We met this guy called Leighton from San Fransisco who I knew would be interesting the instant I saw him - he was obviously an individual by the way he dressed and I guessed creative. He kicked off the karaoke (he said he used to work in entertainment) and to be honest it could have remained a one man show! He was absolutely hilarious and he really made the evening as others either took a while to warm up or remained a bit shy and wouldnt do the karake or anything. We nick named him Mr President after he won the card game we played in a half drunk state, and henceforth the remainder of the evening centred around parliment and, pirates?! Dont ask, but there were a lot of 'Arg's' floating around! I cant remember how many times I sang on the Karaoke - there was a small crowd of us that were up for it - including suprisingly Nate who did it for the first time ever, a grand total of 3 songs including a duet with me. Aw. He looked so sweet.
Earlier in the day we had sailed around and visited caves which were absolutely spectacular and like something out of 'Lord of the Rings.' It was wonderful to be reunited with the Cannon 450D of Nates and once again I was snap happy. We also stopped to do some kayaking which was reminiscent of Vang Vieng.
What a fantastic day.
Halong Bay day 2
We had a gorgeous breakfast and made our way to Cat Ba Island for lunch where we said goodbye to the rest of the boat and proceeded to Monkey Island - a resort with only us two and 3 girls. It was a completely secluded romantic spot but I think any more than a day and I would have gone stir crazy as there was nothing much to do although the sun did come out for an hour or so which we grabbed for some sunbathing. We had the bar to ourselves the 5 of us, and just chilled eating and playing a bit of pool. The bed was the absolute comfiest I had slept in in the whole 3 months of my travels in a really cute bungalow, and I was gutted to have to get up at 7am to have breakfast before being picked up by the boat at 8. On the way back we passed floating houses and fishing villages and also the famous 2 chicken rocks kissing! I was a bit chilly though and raining on and off so I didnt make the most of the gorgeous views having to keep warming up inside, but its a trip I wont forget in a hurry.
Looking at the photos from the caves, there were several that had very eiree phenomenon which Nate was convinced was a pirate, I thought was Jesus, and others thought ranged from the devil to goblins and mythological figues. It really was very strange though, because it certainly wasnt there when we took the photos and the same impression appeared in about 8 different photos taken at different times from different angles and by both me and Nate. It totally spun out Nates ultra practical and scientific mind!
Hanoi
Arriving back or from Halong Bay, (in the rain!) we had to find another hotel because the place we had left our bags was full. Could have been worse though, as we ended up next door for 8 USD. I did a quick turn around and then went to meet my friends at 'Hello Vietnam' to go on to the evening part of the festival together. Austin and I went on ahead because the others wanted to eat first. All I can say is I had a wicked evening seeing my friends again (Elli, Sam and Rory who I had last seen in Hoi An, and Austin, and Tom, and Laura and Mei. We had all had a good night out together in HoI An too when dancing on the pool tables!) I must have drunk more vodka and coke than I realised, because at some point I lost track of my camera (did I put it down when I paid for a yummy hot-dog?) or did someone lift it out of my bag?! Either way, over the next couple of days I wrote emails and visited 'The American Club' part of another frustrating couple of days in Hanoi because I couldn't leave for Sapa before getting my India visa and also wanted to hang about in case my camera got handed in and didn't want to go to Sapa without photo taking facilities after I had so been looking forward to it! - but the flip side was I got to spend a bit more time with Nate. One night we went out to the puppet theatre by the lake, and another went out for a nice meal (spaghetti cabomara - yum yum!) and then to the evasive jazz cafe which had a good repuation and was great except for the price of the drinks. I ordered a B52 because it had Baileys in to be dismayed at it arriving as a shot!
I also rushed around trying to find a new camera after mine went walkies the other night. I found a couple of shops that seemed significantly cheaper and to cut a long story short I ended up buying a Sony W300 which had been recommended to me and I found for 225 pounds when it was 369 on the sony website. I wanted to get something like Nates Cannon 450 which I have become very attached to over the past few weeks, but it would have meant also buying a digital as I always need to have a camera on me and the big ones are just too heavy and bulky for outing non photograph specific. I'm really getting stung though in thE currency - they only often let you draw out 2 mil or less (112 ish pounds) from the ATMs and charge each time. Then as the price of the camera was quoted in dollars, the shops exchange rate into dong also stung because what was good for them wasnt good for me! But sometimes theres no way oif getting roung these things.
I think generally it was a bit of a sad time for me too, my group of friends were dispersing who I really liked and had some really fun times with all the way up Vietnam, and I knew me and Nate would be going our seperate ways too. Any small sense of security was vanishing and as always I approach the next phrase with trepidation even though I know I'll be fine when I get into the swing of being by myself again.
A couple of the days I had walked around Hanoi but on the last day (the day Nate left sob sob) I got a cycle bike which was, er, interesting! I thought motorbiking in these places was mental enough but at least on those you had a horn (which by the way you use frequently!) I got completely lost at one point and basically its not just as easy as asking for directions the average person can't speak english or read maps!!
I also booked my trip to Sapa which as was so last minute (I couldnt book it until i physically had my visa and passport in my hand as there was no time to collect before my flight due to a public holiday) I was told I didnrt have a sleeper on the 10 hour overnight train journey on the way home. Joy to the world.
I settled up with the hotel (we spent another frustrating hour finding a 3rd hotel as the one we went to last nght was full) and waited to be picked up for Sapa. I would liked to have spent 4 or 5 days there but it wasnt to be. Hey, Im going to India, you cant have everything in life...
The city of Hanoi is the central hub for all things worthy of sightseeing in northern Vietnam, with a population of 3.5 million. We were there one night before going on a 2 nigt 3 day cruise to Halong Bay. Then I was there a few days afterwards while waiting for my India Visa.
Arriving on the overnight bus with Nate, we traipsed around with Adam and Catherine (2 people he had previously travelled with who happened to be on our bus) to find a hotel but they're not going cheap in this place! Found one eventually and I rushed out to sort my visa for India. Dissapointingly, because of a public holiday I will not be able to spend the 4 or 5 days in Sapa that I intended to as otherwise I cannot collect my passport and visa before I fly to Kuala Lumpa. Hanoi is as crazy as Ho Chi Min with loads of motorbikes but it also has character, especially in the old quarter where each road seems to be dedicated to a different item!
In the afternoon after some internet stuff we got a cylco to see the lake but to be honest I was feeling very tired after the overnight bus ride and it wasn't all that. In the evening I saw my friends breifly at Hello Vietnam which seems to be the cheapest place to stay, and looked around at some places to book our trip to Sapa. My card wasn't working which threw a spanner in the works but paid the 3 mil using Nates cash just before the travel office closed. I'm looking forward to Halong Bay but feel very sad that afterwards me and Nate will go our seperate ways. Probably the reason for my black mood.
Halong Bay Day 1
The natural wonder of Halong Bay consists of 3000 'islands' or limescale cliffs rising from the gulf of Tonskin, and is a Unesco World Heritage sight. Nathan and I went on an organised trip for 86 USD for 2 nights and 3 days consisting of a cruise, visit to awesome caves and grottos, kayaking, visit to Cat Ba Island, and an overnighter to the secluded 'Monkey Island'. Oh and some karaoke, pirates and apparitions thrown in as an added extra...
We set off early on a 3 1/2 hour bus ride, stopping at the obligatory arty type expensive places where backpackers never make any purchases anyway! We were trying to slyly find out what others had paid for the same trip because I was worried that going slightly upmarket may not actually benefit us in any way. But we were pleasantly surpised by the boat - it was cute, clean, had a deck with sunloungers and mine and nates room shared our own little balcony out the back. The food was really great too, the first evening we enjoyed seafood and for a backpacker the whole situation felt uncommonly classy! The weather was not clear, it has defintely turned the last few weeks, but it made the rock formations look mysterious protruding through the mist. There were seemingly endless rock formations - I knew Halong bay had a reputation for a reason but this surpassed my expectations. I was really excited to be on such a nice boat feeling like a holiday maker and not a skanky backpacker! We had craftily smuggled on some vodka and coke too expecting expensive prices on board - which we were absolutely right about - but they wanted 5 dollars for every bottle you brought on! So like naughty teenagers we bought a can of coke and then kept going back to the room to refill with our own supplies! The whole evening was a blast. We met this guy called Leighton from San Fransisco who I knew would be interesting the instant I saw him - he was obviously an individual by the way he dressed and I guessed creative. He kicked off the karaoke (he said he used to work in entertainment) and to be honest it could have remained a one man show! He was absolutely hilarious and he really made the evening as others either took a while to warm up or remained a bit shy and wouldnt do the karake or anything. We nick named him Mr President after he won the card game we played in a half drunk state, and henceforth the remainder of the evening centred around parliment and, pirates?! Dont ask, but there were a lot of 'Arg's' floating around! I cant remember how many times I sang on the Karaoke - there was a small crowd of us that were up for it - including suprisingly Nate who did it for the first time ever, a grand total of 3 songs including a duet with me. Aw. He looked so sweet.
Earlier in the day we had sailed around and visited caves which were absolutely spectacular and like something out of 'Lord of the Rings.' It was wonderful to be reunited with the Cannon 450D of Nates and once again I was snap happy. We also stopped to do some kayaking which was reminiscent of Vang Vieng.
What a fantastic day.
Halong Bay day 2
We had a gorgeous breakfast and made our way to Cat Ba Island for lunch where we said goodbye to the rest of the boat and proceeded to Monkey Island - a resort with only us two and 3 girls. It was a completely secluded romantic spot but I think any more than a day and I would have gone stir crazy as there was nothing much to do although the sun did come out for an hour or so which we grabbed for some sunbathing. We had the bar to ourselves the 5 of us, and just chilled eating and playing a bit of pool. The bed was the absolute comfiest I had slept in in the whole 3 months of my travels in a really cute bungalow, and I was gutted to have to get up at 7am to have breakfast before being picked up by the boat at 8. On the way back we passed floating houses and fishing villages and also the famous 2 chicken rocks kissing! I was a bit chilly though and raining on and off so I didnt make the most of the gorgeous views having to keep warming up inside, but its a trip I wont forget in a hurry.
Looking at the photos from the caves, there were several that had very eiree phenomenon which Nate was convinced was a pirate, I thought was Jesus, and others thought ranged from the devil to goblins and mythological figues. It really was very strange though, because it certainly wasnt there when we took the photos and the same impression appeared in about 8 different photos taken at different times from different angles and by both me and Nate. It totally spun out Nates ultra practical and scientific mind!
Hanoi
Arriving back or from Halong Bay, (in the rain!) we had to find another hotel because the place we had left our bags was full. Could have been worse though, as we ended up next door for 8 USD. I did a quick turn around and then went to meet my friends at 'Hello Vietnam' to go on to the evening part of the festival together. Austin and I went on ahead because the others wanted to eat first. All I can say is I had a wicked evening seeing my friends again (Elli, Sam and Rory who I had last seen in Hoi An, and Austin, and Tom, and Laura and Mei. We had all had a good night out together in HoI An too when dancing on the pool tables!) I must have drunk more vodka and coke than I realised, because at some point I lost track of my camera (did I put it down when I paid for a yummy hot-dog?) or did someone lift it out of my bag?! Either way, over the next couple of days I wrote emails and visited 'The American Club' part of another frustrating couple of days in Hanoi because I couldn't leave for Sapa before getting my India visa and also wanted to hang about in case my camera got handed in and didn't want to go to Sapa without photo taking facilities after I had so been looking forward to it! - but the flip side was I got to spend a bit more time with Nate. One night we went out to the puppet theatre by the lake, and another went out for a nice meal (spaghetti cabomara - yum yum!) and then to the evasive jazz cafe which had a good repuation and was great except for the price of the drinks. I ordered a B52 because it had Baileys in to be dismayed at it arriving as a shot!
I also rushed around trying to find a new camera after mine went walkies the other night. I found a couple of shops that seemed significantly cheaper and to cut a long story short I ended up buying a Sony W300 which had been recommended to me and I found for 225 pounds when it was 369 on the sony website. I wanted to get something like Nates Cannon 450 which I have become very attached to over the past few weeks, but it would have meant also buying a digital as I always need to have a camera on me and the big ones are just too heavy and bulky for outing non photograph specific. I'm really getting stung though in thE currency - they only often let you draw out 2 mil or less (112 ish pounds) from the ATMs and charge each time. Then as the price of the camera was quoted in dollars, the shops exchange rate into dong also stung because what was good for them wasnt good for me! But sometimes theres no way oif getting roung these things.
I think generally it was a bit of a sad time for me too, my group of friends were dispersing who I really liked and had some really fun times with all the way up Vietnam, and I knew me and Nate would be going our seperate ways too. Any small sense of security was vanishing and as always I approach the next phrase with trepidation even though I know I'll be fine when I get into the swing of being by myself again.
A couple of the days I had walked around Hanoi but on the last day (the day Nate left sob sob) I got a cycle bike which was, er, interesting! I thought motorbiking in these places was mental enough but at least on those you had a horn (which by the way you use frequently!) I got completely lost at one point and basically its not just as easy as asking for directions the average person can't speak english or read maps!!
I also booked my trip to Sapa which as was so last minute (I couldnt book it until i physically had my visa and passport in my hand as there was no time to collect before my flight due to a public holiday) I was told I didnrt have a sleeper on the 10 hour overnight train journey on the way home. Joy to the world.
I settled up with the hotel (we spent another frustrating hour finding a 3rd hotel as the one we went to last nght was full) and waited to be picked up for Sapa. I would liked to have spent 4 or 5 days there but it wasnt to be. Hey, Im going to India, you cant have everything in life...
Hoi An (3 days)
Hoi An
Hoi An (pop 75,800) is a charming town set on the Thu Bon River, with a quaint old town, bustling market, fairy lights, lovely architecture, and colourful shops specialising in silk and custom made clothes.
Day 1
I arrived early in the morning on the night bus and walked a bit trying to get a sense of accomodation costs. Is a bit annoying I arrived on different coaches to the two different people I knew travelling here at the same time. But I didnt want to waste the day in my weary and dishevelled state, (or check into accomodation if I could later hook up with my friend or Nath) so I hired out a motorbike for 3 dollars and went to Marble Mountain, which had a temple, some statues, and really cool views in all directions. I had two different women motor up beside me on the way there, asking where I was from etc and replying with a 'lovely jubbly' on both occassions which made me smile. They both claimed their family lived at Marble Mountain I could park my motorbike at their shops for free. The shops around marble mountain were pretty cool, it has to be said. There were sometimes huge sculptures of lions but a while shop of sculptures was very impressive and they were one after the other. It seemed quite quite tourist wise so no wonder they were touting for business. Afterwards, she was obviously trying to sell me a small elephant for 'only' 4 or 5 dollars but it was 4 or 5 dollars I didnt want tot spend especially to carry it round with me for the next couple of months. I felt bad but said right at the beginning I wouldnt be buying anything. Everywhere here they like to put the guilt trip on they see all westerners as being rich they dont see how lobg it takes us to save for such trips, or how we also have to work hard at home to make ends meet. The difference is our pound is strong so we can travel on it, it would be difficult for them the other way round.
After Marble Mountain, I went to have my legs done as have lost my epilator and in Vietnam they have never heard of them so not much chance of getting another! It took ages because they use cotton thread like you use to sew with, and they arrange it in such a way that it pulls the hairs out through a process of bringing them together and apart, reminiscent of cats cradle. But it is not great, just a temporary solution. However, the lady was very sweet, and attempting to make conversation in limited English. She was about my age and pregnant, and she invited me back to have lunch at her place. The food was really good actually, and it was interesting to witness a local house. It was very basic, not much furnishings. When we arrived the Mother was washing up camping style using a bucket outside. Her sister lived next door I think and I remember noticing her house was a bit more modern and she was wearing more comtemporary clothes. I was invited back the following day, but I explained I wouldnt probably not be around. It was a nice experience, but we couldnt really converse and I was the object of attention by passing Mothers and children who just stopped in their tracks to watch (then got very shy when I wanted to take a photo of them!).
I hadn't been able to get hold of Nate or Austin during the day but Nate had responded to my message and suggested a place to meet in the evening and explained he had moved into a room with someone just earlier that day. Austin had also messaged me, he had found Laura and her friends and they were sharing. So I checked into a dorm room with 2 other girls for the night and had a much needed shower before heading out. Would you believe I went to meet Nathan and who was there but my two dutch friends! I keep bumping into them everywhere! Nate and I had a drink and then went for some food by the river. Was a bit weird after not seeing him for probably a couple of weeks. It was lovely down there - the old town is a Unesco World Heritage sight and I can see why. We went for a walk after our pizza, and arranged to meet the next afternoon to go to the beach.
Day 2
In the morning, Tom arrived and we checked in to another hotel before heading into the old quarter on motorbikes. It was really hot and I enjoyed looking round the market, but you do get followed, and hassled, and I think Tim found it a bit much although for some reason I was really in shopping mood and it didnt bother me I even enjoyed it and was amused by the whole experience. The crowd were also wanting to go to the beach so we headed all there together. It wasnt the same beach I had gone to yesterday (did I mention I went to Cat Dai yesterday?) but it was still nice and even more so when Nate and I went for a walk along and met a very cute little boy who ran up to me as we were approaching who I played with for a while. Also as we walked we came across more of the little circular wicker fishing boats and it got very secluded and local and there were no other westerners around. It was actually a really nice beach. Returning to the others later on, it was absoutely packed with locals. Its like the beach had been taken over! It was really quite bizarre as when we had left it there wasnt that many people there.
That evening we all went for a meal and some rum! We ended up in some bar to see Austin but he wasnt there even though I was happy to see Laura and Mei.
Day 3
I saw Nate in the morning and met the others at the Japanese bridge at 1pm. The others went to Marble Mountain and Nate and I set off to find a place that had been recomended to be for its surfing. I was about to give up hope after a long motorbike ride when I came across a sign and so we hired a boogie board after realising there was just not the surf for proper surfing, and sat on the windy beach. I was determined to catch a wave, but they just wern't there I was quite dissapointed!
In the evening Nate got some bad news so didnt come out with the crowd as he had to write emails and sort things out. We went for some street food, and onto a bar I cant remember the name of but what a wicked night. Between a certain time they literally gave you free rum and coke so I just drank in that hour and that was enough for me! This crowd are so great, I will really miss them and I had good times up the coast of Vietnam. Austine was leading some drinking games and I and the girls danced most of the night on the pool table. It really was a fun fun fun night. I headed back about 1 when it looked like a fight was brewing, and the guys were moving onto another venue as I am catching an early bus to Hue with Nathan in the morning and felt I had already had a fab time but was starting to feel if I stayed out it would only be for the sake of it. Tom was catching an early one too (who I am sharing a room with), but he stayed out and then kept me awake with his snoring for 1 1/2 hours despite my best attempts to wake him up by shaking him, shouting in his ear, turning the lights on and off, rattling and banging about in the room. To no avail!!!!!!!I I didnt want to come on too strong though as he had previously shared how he had punched a friend when he woke him up once.... just a reflex action, apparantly, but not one I wanted to experience...
I will miss Hoi An. It is definately one of my favourite places I have been to so far. The atmosphere in Old Town is just so lovely with the river and the laterns and the fairy lights. Normally everyone who comes here has tailor made clothes because it is so cheap, but my treats have been my diving and you cant have it all, even though I try. Next time.
Hoi An (pop 75,800) is a charming town set on the Thu Bon River, with a quaint old town, bustling market, fairy lights, lovely architecture, and colourful shops specialising in silk and custom made clothes.
Day 1
I arrived early in the morning on the night bus and walked a bit trying to get a sense of accomodation costs. Is a bit annoying I arrived on different coaches to the two different people I knew travelling here at the same time. But I didnt want to waste the day in my weary and dishevelled state, (or check into accomodation if I could later hook up with my friend or Nath) so I hired out a motorbike for 3 dollars and went to Marble Mountain, which had a temple, some statues, and really cool views in all directions. I had two different women motor up beside me on the way there, asking where I was from etc and replying with a 'lovely jubbly' on both occassions which made me smile. They both claimed their family lived at Marble Mountain I could park my motorbike at their shops for free. The shops around marble mountain were pretty cool, it has to be said. There were sometimes huge sculptures of lions but a while shop of sculptures was very impressive and they were one after the other. It seemed quite quite tourist wise so no wonder they were touting for business. Afterwards, she was obviously trying to sell me a small elephant for 'only' 4 or 5 dollars but it was 4 or 5 dollars I didnt want tot spend especially to carry it round with me for the next couple of months. I felt bad but said right at the beginning I wouldnt be buying anything. Everywhere here they like to put the guilt trip on they see all westerners as being rich they dont see how lobg it takes us to save for such trips, or how we also have to work hard at home to make ends meet. The difference is our pound is strong so we can travel on it, it would be difficult for them the other way round.
After Marble Mountain, I went to have my legs done as have lost my epilator and in Vietnam they have never heard of them so not much chance of getting another! It took ages because they use cotton thread like you use to sew with, and they arrange it in such a way that it pulls the hairs out through a process of bringing them together and apart, reminiscent of cats cradle. But it is not great, just a temporary solution. However, the lady was very sweet, and attempting to make conversation in limited English. She was about my age and pregnant, and she invited me back to have lunch at her place. The food was really good actually, and it was interesting to witness a local house. It was very basic, not much furnishings. When we arrived the Mother was washing up camping style using a bucket outside. Her sister lived next door I think and I remember noticing her house was a bit more modern and she was wearing more comtemporary clothes. I was invited back the following day, but I explained I wouldnt probably not be around. It was a nice experience, but we couldnt really converse and I was the object of attention by passing Mothers and children who just stopped in their tracks to watch (then got very shy when I wanted to take a photo of them!).
I hadn't been able to get hold of Nate or Austin during the day but Nate had responded to my message and suggested a place to meet in the evening and explained he had moved into a room with someone just earlier that day. Austin had also messaged me, he had found Laura and her friends and they were sharing. So I checked into a dorm room with 2 other girls for the night and had a much needed shower before heading out. Would you believe I went to meet Nathan and who was there but my two dutch friends! I keep bumping into them everywhere! Nate and I had a drink and then went for some food by the river. Was a bit weird after not seeing him for probably a couple of weeks. It was lovely down there - the old town is a Unesco World Heritage sight and I can see why. We went for a walk after our pizza, and arranged to meet the next afternoon to go to the beach.
Day 2
In the morning, Tom arrived and we checked in to another hotel before heading into the old quarter on motorbikes. It was really hot and I enjoyed looking round the market, but you do get followed, and hassled, and I think Tim found it a bit much although for some reason I was really in shopping mood and it didnt bother me I even enjoyed it and was amused by the whole experience. The crowd were also wanting to go to the beach so we headed all there together. It wasnt the same beach I had gone to yesterday (did I mention I went to Cat Dai yesterday?) but it was still nice and even more so when Nate and I went for a walk along and met a very cute little boy who ran up to me as we were approaching who I played with for a while. Also as we walked we came across more of the little circular wicker fishing boats and it got very secluded and local and there were no other westerners around. It was actually a really nice beach. Returning to the others later on, it was absoutely packed with locals. Its like the beach had been taken over! It was really quite bizarre as when we had left it there wasnt that many people there.
That evening we all went for a meal and some rum! We ended up in some bar to see Austin but he wasnt there even though I was happy to see Laura and Mei.
Day 3
I saw Nate in the morning and met the others at the Japanese bridge at 1pm. The others went to Marble Mountain and Nate and I set off to find a place that had been recomended to be for its surfing. I was about to give up hope after a long motorbike ride when I came across a sign and so we hired a boogie board after realising there was just not the surf for proper surfing, and sat on the windy beach. I was determined to catch a wave, but they just wern't there I was quite dissapointed!
In the evening Nate got some bad news so didnt come out with the crowd as he had to write emails and sort things out. We went for some street food, and onto a bar I cant remember the name of but what a wicked night. Between a certain time they literally gave you free rum and coke so I just drank in that hour and that was enough for me! This crowd are so great, I will really miss them and I had good times up the coast of Vietnam. Austine was leading some drinking games and I and the girls danced most of the night on the pool table. It really was a fun fun fun night. I headed back about 1 when it looked like a fight was brewing, and the guys were moving onto another venue as I am catching an early bus to Hue with Nathan in the morning and felt I had already had a fab time but was starting to feel if I stayed out it would only be for the sake of it. Tom was catching an early one too (who I am sharing a room with), but he stayed out and then kept me awake with his snoring for 1 1/2 hours despite my best attempts to wake him up by shaking him, shouting in his ear, turning the lights on and off, rattling and banging about in the room. To no avail!!!!!!!I I didnt want to come on too strong though as he had previously shared how he had punched a friend when he woke him up once.... just a reflex action, apparantly, but not one I wanted to experience...
I will miss Hoi An. It is definately one of my favourite places I have been to so far. The atmosphere in Old Town is just so lovely with the river and the laterns and the fairy lights. Normally everyone who comes here has tailor made clothes because it is so cheap, but my treats have been my diving and you cant have it all, even though I try. Next time.
Nha Trang, Vietnam (16-18th April)
Nha Trang is supposedly the Vang Vieng of Laos - not typically local but good for the backpacker party crowd. It is a city on the coast and I thought with a pretty nice beach considering. It's also the main place in Vietnam known for diving.
16th April Ne Trang day 1
My first days diving on my advanced level course!! I bit the bullet and bought a SSI (cheaper than PADI) course for 180 USD which is pretty cheap especially as I'm the only one in the class. We arrived in the evening and after a shower went to eat at a place up the road where the guys bought a huge bucket of cocktails but which I was refraining from due to my diving course. The sensible side of me comes out. Much of my evening was spent popping into the various dive shops trying to get the best deal. I decided on cramming 3 dives into 2 days rather than over 3 days as I dont have a lot of time to dilly dally. At least that way I could play the third day by ear and spend it here or save it for Hoi An which I have had this feeling about that I'll love it there.
The first dive was incredible - a place called fisherman bay, we went to 15 metres for 49 minutes. I was wearing a computer watch which calculates how long you are safe to dive at various depths taking into consideration the amount of nitrogen in your body. Better than the manual PADI dive tables. My second dive was bouancy, which was actually really helpful because I started realising how much you could control your bouyancy just by using your breath rathan than artificially using your life-jacket. I was aware of it through the remiander of my dives and it really helped. My third speciality of the day was navigation, where I had swim around proving I could follow the compass on my wrist but it was a bit difficult and not compeltely accurate with the current! The dives were of a good lenght, better value than Ko Tao which apparantly has a bit of a reputation...
The weather was lovely until on the way home it decided to sheet it down, and there on the boat, a crowd of us are, in our swimwear, grabbing anything for warmth, shivering but happy.
17th April Ne Trang day 2
So today was my second day of my advanced diving and the rest of the guys came along too for snorkelling which was nice. We also met a friendly Irish girl called Laura. My thoughts returned to Koa Tao, in Thailand where I did my open water when I was with the girls back at the beginning of February. Austin was a master diver and joined me for like 40 dollars for 3 dives.
The first dive was incredible - a place called Madonna rock where we swan through rocks and crevices resembling caves and overwhelmed by shoals of fish sheltering therein. This was my 'advanced deep' speciality - as an open water diver you can only dive to a depth of 20 metres and so deep water is a compulsary element of advanced. Ironically the visability (vis) wasnt good and so the remainder of the dive we swam shallower, where we saw the shoals of fish. My second dive wasnt so enjoyable as I was cold upon entering the water and for the entire duration - 48 minutes. This was at 'small wall' and probably the most unexciting dive. This was my nitrox speciality which is a tank which contains more oxygen, enabling you to dive for a much greater lenght of time, or in this case, as the instructor and my friend Austin were on air, less tiring and safer. I had 3 dives yesterday and 1 already today so it seemed a sensible thing to do. It also counts as a credit towards nitrogen speciality, but I didnt want to pay the extra 60 dollars for it! This is already a treat but hopefull will come in handy as trying to get into sports agencies in london for commericals. By the third dive I was completely exhausted and could have just gone to bed even though being the photography speciality it was the one I had been most looking forward to. However once in the water - with three wetsuits this time! - I was in my element as I love photography anyway and being underwater was just ace. Returning to the boat, Austin suggested we do some 'water dancing' which essentially involved swimming off by ourselves (I can do this as a certified diver as long as I am accompanied by a master diver) removing our flippers and dancing ballroom style on the sandy floor! It was wicked, and he twisted me around and even cartwheeled me around.
Unfortunately I was low on air and the entire boat were waiting for us so we had to stop our fun. We had some lunch and then I worked out my itinary and then rushed around like a blue arsed fly to book a sleeper bus for the evening as if I want to spend 3 days in Hoi An, 2 days in Halong bay before a concert in Hanoi on the 25th I had to get outta here! Managed to get a sleeper bus for 180,000 (10 dollars 11, or 7 pounds 49 which isnt bad as it includes accomodation and is a 10 hour journey.
Am currently on the overnighter and chatting to a couple just on a two week break, and an australian travelling for 3 months. The annoying driver kept playing bloody chirpy vietnam music throughout the night which kept waking me up. I got up at one point and asked him to turn if off, he wouldnt but turned it down only to turn it up again half hour later! The air con made the whole coach freezing so ironically even though I could have slept with the sort of bed, the temperature made it impossible. I also lost my PADI diving book which I am not happy about! It fell down from my bunk and I thought id get it later as there was a guy sleeping on the floor and I didnt know where I could physically tread! Lesson: dont leave til tomorrow something you can do today. But hey, I never learn.
In the evening we went out again. Cant remember where, cant remember names, but its a good crowd. I think I also did some clothes shopping as I was so fed up with the same wardrobe and feeling really scanky...! Oh it felt good ;)
16th April Ne Trang day 1
My first days diving on my advanced level course!! I bit the bullet and bought a SSI (cheaper than PADI) course for 180 USD which is pretty cheap especially as I'm the only one in the class. We arrived in the evening and after a shower went to eat at a place up the road where the guys bought a huge bucket of cocktails but which I was refraining from due to my diving course. The sensible side of me comes out. Much of my evening was spent popping into the various dive shops trying to get the best deal. I decided on cramming 3 dives into 2 days rather than over 3 days as I dont have a lot of time to dilly dally. At least that way I could play the third day by ear and spend it here or save it for Hoi An which I have had this feeling about that I'll love it there.
The first dive was incredible - a place called fisherman bay, we went to 15 metres for 49 minutes. I was wearing a computer watch which calculates how long you are safe to dive at various depths taking into consideration the amount of nitrogen in your body. Better than the manual PADI dive tables. My second dive was bouancy, which was actually really helpful because I started realising how much you could control your bouyancy just by using your breath rathan than artificially using your life-jacket. I was aware of it through the remiander of my dives and it really helped. My third speciality of the day was navigation, where I had swim around proving I could follow the compass on my wrist but it was a bit difficult and not compeltely accurate with the current! The dives were of a good lenght, better value than Ko Tao which apparantly has a bit of a reputation...
The weather was lovely until on the way home it decided to sheet it down, and there on the boat, a crowd of us are, in our swimwear, grabbing anything for warmth, shivering but happy.
17th April Ne Trang day 2
So today was my second day of my advanced diving and the rest of the guys came along too for snorkelling which was nice. We also met a friendly Irish girl called Laura. My thoughts returned to Koa Tao, in Thailand where I did my open water when I was with the girls back at the beginning of February. Austin was a master diver and joined me for like 40 dollars for 3 dives.
The first dive was incredible - a place called Madonna rock where we swan through rocks and crevices resembling caves and overwhelmed by shoals of fish sheltering therein. This was my 'advanced deep' speciality - as an open water diver you can only dive to a depth of 20 metres and so deep water is a compulsary element of advanced. Ironically the visability (vis) wasnt good and so the remainder of the dive we swam shallower, where we saw the shoals of fish. My second dive wasnt so enjoyable as I was cold upon entering the water and for the entire duration - 48 minutes. This was at 'small wall' and probably the most unexciting dive. This was my nitrox speciality which is a tank which contains more oxygen, enabling you to dive for a much greater lenght of time, or in this case, as the instructor and my friend Austin were on air, less tiring and safer. I had 3 dives yesterday and 1 already today so it seemed a sensible thing to do. It also counts as a credit towards nitrogen speciality, but I didnt want to pay the extra 60 dollars for it! This is already a treat but hopefull will come in handy as trying to get into sports agencies in london for commericals. By the third dive I was completely exhausted and could have just gone to bed even though being the photography speciality it was the one I had been most looking forward to. However once in the water - with three wetsuits this time! - I was in my element as I love photography anyway and being underwater was just ace. Returning to the boat, Austin suggested we do some 'water dancing' which essentially involved swimming off by ourselves (I can do this as a certified diver as long as I am accompanied by a master diver) removing our flippers and dancing ballroom style on the sandy floor! It was wicked, and he twisted me around and even cartwheeled me around.
Unfortunately I was low on air and the entire boat were waiting for us so we had to stop our fun. We had some lunch and then I worked out my itinary and then rushed around like a blue arsed fly to book a sleeper bus for the evening as if I want to spend 3 days in Hoi An, 2 days in Halong bay before a concert in Hanoi on the 25th I had to get outta here! Managed to get a sleeper bus for 180,000 (10 dollars 11, or 7 pounds 49 which isnt bad as it includes accomodation and is a 10 hour journey.
Am currently on the overnighter and chatting to a couple just on a two week break, and an australian travelling for 3 months. The annoying driver kept playing bloody chirpy vietnam music throughout the night which kept waking me up. I got up at one point and asked him to turn if off, he wouldnt but turned it down only to turn it up again half hour later! The air con made the whole coach freezing so ironically even though I could have slept with the sort of bed, the temperature made it impossible. I also lost my PADI diving book which I am not happy about! It fell down from my bunk and I thought id get it later as there was a guy sleeping on the floor and I didnt know where I could physically tread! Lesson: dont leave til tomorrow something you can do today. But hey, I never learn.
In the evening we went out again. Cant remember where, cant remember names, but its a good crowd. I think I also did some clothes shopping as I was so fed up with the same wardrobe and feeling really scanky...! Oh it felt good ;)
Mui Ne and sand sledging! (13th & 14th April)
Monday 13th April - Mui Ne
Mui Ne is a beautiful and relaxing spot on the coast inbetween Saigon and Nha Trang. Not everybody stops here on the backpacker trail, it is more likely to attract the kite-surfer or wannabe kite-surfer crowd (I fall into the latter category!)
What an amazing day so far especially considering I got zero hours sleep! Got on the bus which ended up leaving at 8.30am and taking 5 hours. After a bit of traipsing around with backpacks we found a room right next to 'Mellow' for 9 dollars between 3 of us. We had met a 23 year old guy on the bus called Austin, from Seatle in America. He's here for 6 weeks, following working in Mexico for 3 months as a scuba dive master. Wicked yeah. Arrived and saw Rory, who me and Tom had met the other night with his friend Sam at the cheapo beer place, who had nicked the last room at 'Mellow' the backpacker place we planned on staying at!
We were very very happy to arrive at the beach - sigh - and sat at a gorgeous place (where the rooms go for 59 dollars!) on the beach front and had a pancake and beer before moto biking off to red dunes to sledge and jump in sand and be big kids basically. It was sooooo much fun, and the little kids that rented us the boards for a dollar helped us dig up the deeper wetter sand to transport to the top of the slope to thrown down the hill. Then you stick your feet up, plonk your bum as close to it as possible and then lean back and GO!!!
There were also 2 American girls and therefore a good crowd to have fun with although I have to say it was verY hard work climbing back up to the top of the slopes and I am noticing my lack of 3 or 4 times a week gym workouts!
Am very happy. With a good crowd and all is good. Only thing is all my clothes are covered in red from Rathinkiri in Cambodia so I long for clean and different clothes also my epilator broke NOT happy as I havnt shaved in 10 years and dont intend to start now. Hope there is cheap waxing here... Anyway, upon return me and American Austin went for a swim in the sea and I cracked him up being so jumpy at my overactive imagination thinking lots of small creatures were after me when it was in fact the loose bindings on my bikini....
Will be good to see Tom and Dave later. This place is wicked wicked wicked and they also have jet sking and kite surfing so BRING IT ON!!!!
Had drinkies in the evening and very cheap diinner. I also had a huge plate of fruit and yoghurt for desert for a ridiculous price on the beach front. We shared bottles of rum for 30,000 with some lime juice and ice. Went to bed about 4am was suprised I lasted! Looks like there won't be much kite surfing as the wind is hiding. I am pretty gutted but there is at least jet skiing so will have to make do with that instead! Also want to do the white sand dunes but is further away and even though we have rented the motos really just wanna chill and do nothing for a day.
Money spent: 5 USD bus, breakfast 1 dollar, snack 1 dollar, beer 15,000 cigarettes 12,000 motorbike hire 50,000 sledge rent 17,000 pancake 30,000. SLEDGE 1 DOLLAR.
Tuesday 14th April - Mui Ne Day 2
Today was pretty much chilled, reading and listening to music on the beach until 4 when we took a loooong motorbike trip to the white sand dunes this time. It was soooooo awesome, it was like being in the desert and we were pretty much the only people there which added to the atmosphere aided by a lovely sunset. It was quite hard work, but worth it to slide down on our bellies, a new technique discovered by Dave! Four of us trekked a bit further to go down a steeper and longer slope and it was such good fun doing activities like this I get such a buzz out of!! These are my favourite times, great location, great crowd, great fun!
In the evening I had a lovely shrimp and squid meal with noodles over a bottle of rum with Tom, leaving the others at Mellow for a little while. We ended up chatting the evening away and I was suprised it was 10.30 before heading back to Mellow to play pool and drink more rum! I am soooo tired I havnt slept properly in over a week but at least I actually slept last night even if only 5 hours! It was a good evening and me and Elli
headed back to the room at about 1am.
I can't really remember the rest - I think we got a day bus to Nha Trang, the crowd decided to all move on together but I think me Rory Sam and Ellie ended up on a different bus to the others so we all arranged to meet at a hotel in Nha Trang which had been recommended to me by two different people.
I never got to do my kite surfing sob sob as there was no wind... but another time...
Mui Ne is a beautiful and relaxing spot on the coast inbetween Saigon and Nha Trang. Not everybody stops here on the backpacker trail, it is more likely to attract the kite-surfer or wannabe kite-surfer crowd (I fall into the latter category!)
What an amazing day so far especially considering I got zero hours sleep! Got on the bus which ended up leaving at 8.30am and taking 5 hours. After a bit of traipsing around with backpacks we found a room right next to 'Mellow' for 9 dollars between 3 of us. We had met a 23 year old guy on the bus called Austin, from Seatle in America. He's here for 6 weeks, following working in Mexico for 3 months as a scuba dive master. Wicked yeah. Arrived and saw Rory, who me and Tom had met the other night with his friend Sam at the cheapo beer place, who had nicked the last room at 'Mellow' the backpacker place we planned on staying at!
We were very very happy to arrive at the beach - sigh - and sat at a gorgeous place (where the rooms go for 59 dollars!) on the beach front and had a pancake and beer before moto biking off to red dunes to sledge and jump in sand and be big kids basically. It was sooooo much fun, and the little kids that rented us the boards for a dollar helped us dig up the deeper wetter sand to transport to the top of the slope to thrown down the hill. Then you stick your feet up, plonk your bum as close to it as possible and then lean back and GO!!!
There were also 2 American girls and therefore a good crowd to have fun with although I have to say it was verY hard work climbing back up to the top of the slopes and I am noticing my lack of 3 or 4 times a week gym workouts!
Am very happy. With a good crowd and all is good. Only thing is all my clothes are covered in red from Rathinkiri in Cambodia so I long for clean and different clothes also my epilator broke NOT happy as I havnt shaved in 10 years and dont intend to start now. Hope there is cheap waxing here... Anyway, upon return me and American Austin went for a swim in the sea and I cracked him up being so jumpy at my overactive imagination thinking lots of small creatures were after me when it was in fact the loose bindings on my bikini....
Will be good to see Tom and Dave later. This place is wicked wicked wicked and they also have jet sking and kite surfing so BRING IT ON!!!!
Had drinkies in the evening and very cheap diinner. I also had a huge plate of fruit and yoghurt for desert for a ridiculous price on the beach front. We shared bottles of rum for 30,000 with some lime juice and ice. Went to bed about 4am was suprised I lasted! Looks like there won't be much kite surfing as the wind is hiding. I am pretty gutted but there is at least jet skiing so will have to make do with that instead! Also want to do the white sand dunes but is further away and even though we have rented the motos really just wanna chill and do nothing for a day.
Money spent: 5 USD bus, breakfast 1 dollar, snack 1 dollar, beer 15,000 cigarettes 12,000 motorbike hire 50,000 sledge rent 17,000 pancake 30,000. SLEDGE 1 DOLLAR.
Tuesday 14th April - Mui Ne Day 2
Today was pretty much chilled, reading and listening to music on the beach until 4 when we took a loooong motorbike trip to the white sand dunes this time. It was soooooo awesome, it was like being in the desert and we were pretty much the only people there which added to the atmosphere aided by a lovely sunset. It was quite hard work, but worth it to slide down on our bellies, a new technique discovered by Dave! Four of us trekked a bit further to go down a steeper and longer slope and it was such good fun doing activities like this I get such a buzz out of!! These are my favourite times, great location, great crowd, great fun!
In the evening I had a lovely shrimp and squid meal with noodles over a bottle of rum with Tom, leaving the others at Mellow for a little while. We ended up chatting the evening away and I was suprised it was 10.30 before heading back to Mellow to play pool and drink more rum! I am soooo tired I havnt slept properly in over a week but at least I actually slept last night even if only 5 hours! It was a good evening and me and Elli
headed back to the room at about 1am.
I can't really remember the rest - I think we got a day bus to Nha Trang, the crowd decided to all move on together but I think me Rory Sam and Ellie ended up on a different bus to the others so we all arranged to meet at a hotel in Nha Trang which had been recommended to me by two different people.
I never got to do my kite surfing sob sob as there was no wind... but another time...
Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) and surrounds (10-12 April)
Cu Chi Tunnels, Mekong Delta, Reunification Museum, Notre Dame Catherdral, War Remnant museum (3 days)
Fri 11th April - Cu Chi Tunnels
Ho Chi Minh City - HCMC or formally Saigon, is a large city of 5.8 million in the south of Vietnam. Today I visted the Cu Chi Tunnels, 15 K out of town and costing 5 USD. Include info I put on facebook.
OK so I arrived very early in the morning, after a terrible nights (not) sleep on the bus from Ton Cum in the central highlands. I got dumped at a bus stop and didnt have a clue where I was, again only westener, completely unprepared because the light was broken on my seat on the bus so couldn't do the reading and planning I had intended the evening before. Other information I had researched was in my netbook which is not really a good idea to flash to the many people bustling around that may contribute to Ho Chi Minh being a capital of petty theft! I plonked briefly in a street cafe to get my bearings with my trusty lonely planet, and the impatient guy dumped some cold coffee in front of me and then charged me double for it! But still being new to Vietnam and being half asleep I didnt argue as its only pennies at the end of the day.
I did finally find a local bus that an hour later got me to near the backpacker district (Ho Chi Minh is very big and very bad traffic!) and after only asking in maybe 3 places I secured a room in district 1 'mini hotel alley' with tv bathroom and wireless for 6 USD. The staff also seemed quite honest and I guy that stayed there tesitified to this fact. I knew this place was more expensive so I wasnt gonna waste more time getting it cheaper. I did in fact ask in 'Yellow House' which do dorm rooms but it was 7 USD so realised I did get a very good deal considering I'm currently solo.
I literally didnt even shower, as my room wasnt even ready to check into (it was 7.30 am!) and many tour operators were full for the Hu Chi Min tunnels so by the time I found one, I had about 0 minutes to grab a baguette for lunch before getting on a bus to the Hu Chi Minh Tunnels. I felt so tired sometimes the only way is to keep going and it was a way I knew I would be productive in my first day and make the most of my time here.
We stopped on the way at a place where handicapped people make beautiful, well anything and everything really. Pictures, chopsticks, furniture, but it was all very expensive so I just treated it like a gallery!
The Hi Chi Minh tunnels were really interesting. What gets me is the sheer resilience that led to a solid 15 years of digging underground by the Vietmanese. Some people found them quite claustraphobic but I managed the full 90 metres, which even though I dont like enclosed spaces, I found quite fun and was with an outgoing canadian girl who also found it a laugh which always helps.
After a hasty shower, I met Elli, a german girl I had hung out with throughout the day, after a hasty shower, to be told 350 euros had been stolen from her bag in her dorm room. She was obviously upset and so we went out for some food and a bottle of wine in a mexican restaurant near her hostel Yellow House. Since I have arrived here I keep hearing stories of people that have either been held up or been stolen from. I have to be more careful. Like clutch you bag for dear life so nobody can motorbike by and grab it off you. I was scared of Vietnam for this reason but in reality as long as your aware it should be fine. I may start using my pacsafe though.
MOney spent: 6 USD accomodation, breakfast 1 dollar, waters 50 cents, ice cream 60 cents, lunch (noodle soup and 2 beers) with Gene ? dinner (street) 1 dollar. Wine 70,000.
Sat 12th April - Mekong Delta
Another really good day. For 8 USD I have visited the Mekong Delta, (2 1/2 hours each way with the obligatory toilet stop just 15 mins from our destination!) gone on a boat, had a nice lunch, visited the honey bees and sampled honey tea (very nice) tried some coconut candy (slightly sickly), handled a python (I really dont like snakes so that was my mental challenge of the day!) had a 'jungle fruit' afternoon meal accompanied by green tea and live music (I can't really tell if the females have nice voices as its kind of a nasal sound they make!) and my favourite part, gone on a 'rowing' boat (although it was more like Oxford punting only they are squatting not standing) along a narrow distributary with large jungle trees either side, wearing the famous pointy Vietmanese hat. We noticed (Elli, Tom and I) that all the Vietmanese dressed very smartly considering they were performing fairly active tasks in the sun. But perhaps they know best, it must be cooler.
I hung out with Elli from yesterday and a guy called Tom from Liverpool who regaled us with a tragic tale of how his girlfriend dumped him ON THE PLANE they were both on to travel to South East Asia together! He got so upset he was put off the plane and never made it that time round. Another traumatic event led him to book a last minute flight this time. Elli on the otherhand has been travelling for 1 1/2 years. She is intending to return to Gernany in July or possibly earlier.
My impressions of Elli and Tom are both of genuine people. I initially noticed Elli because she had a lovely smile, and someone who smiled like that has got to be nice hey! Tom was quieter, but very open about things in his own life, and good to chat to. Later in the day we started making plans to continue travelling together at least till Mui Ne which I have decided I am going to briefly to try out kite surfing and sand surfing ;) You have to grab these opportunities while you can!
What is interesting here also is that there are many asias on holiday from elsewhere and amongst backpackers too I am appreciating meeting people and hearing other peoples stories. Each one is unique. Being a ridiculous romantic it also warms the heart to meet people who have met while travelling. It didn't quite work out for me that way, but maybe one day...
We got back 6.30 ish and I downloaded some photos before meeting Tom in the evening. Went for some cheapo beers (10,000 each!) and ate at Stella after seeing my dutch friends Bas and David. Davids been ill and the Irish girl Karin also who I met in Don Det, Laos. So they didn't come out but it was still good to see them.
Also hung out with a larger crowd we met at the cheapest drinking place in town, which is basically on the street sitting on kiddie sized plastic chairs! - but the club we were going to was shut (on a Saturday?) so we dispersed and I went to bed about 2am. The lads were really sweet they wouldnt let me walk to and from my guest house by myself (I dumped my laptop back before going out to club) and Im glad Tom walked me back later because actually the alley that I thought would be constantly busy was actually completely empty. Think Tom is a really decent guy. He's like a typical scous in one way and is into his martial arts but is really soft underneath. Gonna do the city tomorrow and then leave early the next day. I do like Ho Chi Minh but I have to get a move on!
One thing: I rang up an english speaking church and the connection wasnt great but it was very clear they were not meeting because of the government. I know Vietnam was / is a commiunist country but forbidding christian public meetings is not what I would have expected at all. Quite full on.
Money spent: 8 dollar day trip, 6 dollar accomodation, 1 dollar breakfast and drink (cheese baguette and lipton ice tea), 1.50 ice cream, dinner 59,000, beers 30,000.
Sunday 12th April - Ho Chi Minh
Happy Easter! So today even though I woke up at 7am (ouch!) I laid in bed and did chilled stuff and went for breakfast at Stella's which was an easter treat as more expensive. I had very nice poached egg baguette, meat and cappucino which was gorgeous. Nate said he had eaten breakfast here 5 days in a row and walking past each time I could just imagine him here on his laptop! It was not very typical Vietnam though - it was modern and westernised. I got chatting to a lady and a man who had been to India so gave me some tips. We ended up going to viist the cathedral together but it was shut (lonely planet let me down!) so we went to the Reunification Palace, built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnams presidential palace, and the site of famous images of the communist tank crashing the gate on 30th May 1970, the day Saigon surrendered. We only paid 15,000 to get in (just over a dollar) and had an enlish speaking guide for an hour or so. It was very grand, and designed by some famous architect...er must find out who..! From here I went straight to the War Remants museum which had come highly recommended and which left a lump in your throat. I think the worst was seeing the tanks and bombs designed and made specifically to destroy and kill, the depictions of mutilated soldiers, innocent victims of Agent Orange, a toxic spray used by the Americas to clear vast areas and which still affects people now with cancer and deformation. It spolied all the water resources in the area and was an evil tool. The photos of those deformed were very sad, little children born as victims of a war they didnt even live through. Other heart rendering images were those painted by the children and their perceptions of war - bloodshed, dead bodies, tears, mass graves, and peace - soliders returned, families reuintied, unity joy and friendship. I arrived there abolutely exhausted and so chatted for about half an hour to an american guy called Dave who we later arranged to meet to do to a service at the cathedral. He also came out for a drink that night and changed his ticket from Nha Trang to Mui Ne to move on with our wee crowd.
The service, although all in Vietmanese, was just what I needed to focus on it being Easter. During all the talkie bits I read my little bible and applied some of the versus from the psalms to the songs the choir were singing. My church at home has a band for worship and is contemporary in its approach although Church of England, so am not used to 'traditional' services, but there is something very uplifting and majestic and somehow on a higher plane to hear voices in unison filling a vast space. It reminded me of Italy 2000 where I went to mass in the Vatican wih Pope John Paul II, an experience I shal never forget. There is definately a holy atmosphere in such places.
In the evening I met Elli and Tom as planned, and also Dave who I met today, and a few of Toms friends from his travels also joined us. I got on really well with Gemma, a girl from Birmingham who is just on her way out of Vietnam, who recently was living and working in Australia with her boyfriend and travelling for a year and a half already. She'll also be in India about the same time is me. We had a drink at Go 2 bar, (2 for one beers) had some cheap noodles at one of the many street cafes where everyone sits (almost toilet style!) on low plastic tables and chairs and then ended up at our cheapie hang out where you can get a Saigon bottle beer for under a dollar. There towards the end of the evening we met the strangest lady who was apparantly deaf and mute due to the effect of bombs. She was quite a character, drinking her beer and miming out her story in a way any professional artist would be proud of. Had another late night and no sleep before getting a bus to....
Money spent: Breakfast 94,000 dong, moto 12,000 dong, entrance 15,000 dong, water 4,000 dong, cigarettes 4,000 dong, War remnant museum 15,000 dong, moto 15,000 dong, dinner 10,000 dong, beers 25,000 dong.
Fri 11th April - Cu Chi Tunnels
Ho Chi Minh City - HCMC or formally Saigon, is a large city of 5.8 million in the south of Vietnam. Today I visted the Cu Chi Tunnels, 15 K out of town and costing 5 USD. Include info I put on facebook.
OK so I arrived very early in the morning, after a terrible nights (not) sleep on the bus from Ton Cum in the central highlands. I got dumped at a bus stop and didnt have a clue where I was, again only westener, completely unprepared because the light was broken on my seat on the bus so couldn't do the reading and planning I had intended the evening before. Other information I had researched was in my netbook which is not really a good idea to flash to the many people bustling around that may contribute to Ho Chi Minh being a capital of petty theft! I plonked briefly in a street cafe to get my bearings with my trusty lonely planet, and the impatient guy dumped some cold coffee in front of me and then charged me double for it! But still being new to Vietnam and being half asleep I didnt argue as its only pennies at the end of the day.
I did finally find a local bus that an hour later got me to near the backpacker district (Ho Chi Minh is very big and very bad traffic!) and after only asking in maybe 3 places I secured a room in district 1 'mini hotel alley' with tv bathroom and wireless for 6 USD. The staff also seemed quite honest and I guy that stayed there tesitified to this fact. I knew this place was more expensive so I wasnt gonna waste more time getting it cheaper. I did in fact ask in 'Yellow House' which do dorm rooms but it was 7 USD so realised I did get a very good deal considering I'm currently solo.
I literally didnt even shower, as my room wasnt even ready to check into (it was 7.30 am!) and many tour operators were full for the Hu Chi Min tunnels so by the time I found one, I had about 0 minutes to grab a baguette for lunch before getting on a bus to the Hu Chi Minh Tunnels. I felt so tired sometimes the only way is to keep going and it was a way I knew I would be productive in my first day and make the most of my time here.
We stopped on the way at a place where handicapped people make beautiful, well anything and everything really. Pictures, chopsticks, furniture, but it was all very expensive so I just treated it like a gallery!
The Hi Chi Minh tunnels were really interesting. What gets me is the sheer resilience that led to a solid 15 years of digging underground by the Vietmanese. Some people found them quite claustraphobic but I managed the full 90 metres, which even though I dont like enclosed spaces, I found quite fun and was with an outgoing canadian girl who also found it a laugh which always helps.
After a hasty shower, I met Elli, a german girl I had hung out with throughout the day, after a hasty shower, to be told 350 euros had been stolen from her bag in her dorm room. She was obviously upset and so we went out for some food and a bottle of wine in a mexican restaurant near her hostel Yellow House. Since I have arrived here I keep hearing stories of people that have either been held up or been stolen from. I have to be more careful. Like clutch you bag for dear life so nobody can motorbike by and grab it off you. I was scared of Vietnam for this reason but in reality as long as your aware it should be fine. I may start using my pacsafe though.
MOney spent: 6 USD accomodation, breakfast 1 dollar, waters 50 cents, ice cream 60 cents, lunch (noodle soup and 2 beers) with Gene ? dinner (street) 1 dollar. Wine 70,000.
Sat 12th April - Mekong Delta
Another really good day. For 8 USD I have visited the Mekong Delta, (2 1/2 hours each way with the obligatory toilet stop just 15 mins from our destination!) gone on a boat, had a nice lunch, visited the honey bees and sampled honey tea (very nice) tried some coconut candy (slightly sickly), handled a python (I really dont like snakes so that was my mental challenge of the day!) had a 'jungle fruit' afternoon meal accompanied by green tea and live music (I can't really tell if the females have nice voices as its kind of a nasal sound they make!) and my favourite part, gone on a 'rowing' boat (although it was more like Oxford punting only they are squatting not standing) along a narrow distributary with large jungle trees either side, wearing the famous pointy Vietmanese hat. We noticed (Elli, Tom and I) that all the Vietmanese dressed very smartly considering they were performing fairly active tasks in the sun. But perhaps they know best, it must be cooler.
I hung out with Elli from yesterday and a guy called Tom from Liverpool who regaled us with a tragic tale of how his girlfriend dumped him ON THE PLANE they were both on to travel to South East Asia together! He got so upset he was put off the plane and never made it that time round. Another traumatic event led him to book a last minute flight this time. Elli on the otherhand has been travelling for 1 1/2 years. She is intending to return to Gernany in July or possibly earlier.
My impressions of Elli and Tom are both of genuine people. I initially noticed Elli because she had a lovely smile, and someone who smiled like that has got to be nice hey! Tom was quieter, but very open about things in his own life, and good to chat to. Later in the day we started making plans to continue travelling together at least till Mui Ne which I have decided I am going to briefly to try out kite surfing and sand surfing ;) You have to grab these opportunities while you can!
What is interesting here also is that there are many asias on holiday from elsewhere and amongst backpackers too I am appreciating meeting people and hearing other peoples stories. Each one is unique. Being a ridiculous romantic it also warms the heart to meet people who have met while travelling. It didn't quite work out for me that way, but maybe one day...
We got back 6.30 ish and I downloaded some photos before meeting Tom in the evening. Went for some cheapo beers (10,000 each!) and ate at Stella after seeing my dutch friends Bas and David. Davids been ill and the Irish girl Karin also who I met in Don Det, Laos. So they didn't come out but it was still good to see them.
Also hung out with a larger crowd we met at the cheapest drinking place in town, which is basically on the street sitting on kiddie sized plastic chairs! - but the club we were going to was shut (on a Saturday?) so we dispersed and I went to bed about 2am. The lads were really sweet they wouldnt let me walk to and from my guest house by myself (I dumped my laptop back before going out to club) and Im glad Tom walked me back later because actually the alley that I thought would be constantly busy was actually completely empty. Think Tom is a really decent guy. He's like a typical scous in one way and is into his martial arts but is really soft underneath. Gonna do the city tomorrow and then leave early the next day. I do like Ho Chi Minh but I have to get a move on!
One thing: I rang up an english speaking church and the connection wasnt great but it was very clear they were not meeting because of the government. I know Vietnam was / is a commiunist country but forbidding christian public meetings is not what I would have expected at all. Quite full on.
Money spent: 8 dollar day trip, 6 dollar accomodation, 1 dollar breakfast and drink (cheese baguette and lipton ice tea), 1.50 ice cream, dinner 59,000, beers 30,000.
Sunday 12th April - Ho Chi Minh
Happy Easter! So today even though I woke up at 7am (ouch!) I laid in bed and did chilled stuff and went for breakfast at Stella's which was an easter treat as more expensive. I had very nice poached egg baguette, meat and cappucino which was gorgeous. Nate said he had eaten breakfast here 5 days in a row and walking past each time I could just imagine him here on his laptop! It was not very typical Vietnam though - it was modern and westernised. I got chatting to a lady and a man who had been to India so gave me some tips. We ended up going to viist the cathedral together but it was shut (lonely planet let me down!) so we went to the Reunification Palace, built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnams presidential palace, and the site of famous images of the communist tank crashing the gate on 30th May 1970, the day Saigon surrendered. We only paid 15,000 to get in (just over a dollar) and had an enlish speaking guide for an hour or so. It was very grand, and designed by some famous architect...er must find out who..! From here I went straight to the War Remants museum which had come highly recommended and which left a lump in your throat. I think the worst was seeing the tanks and bombs designed and made specifically to destroy and kill, the depictions of mutilated soldiers, innocent victims of Agent Orange, a toxic spray used by the Americas to clear vast areas and which still affects people now with cancer and deformation. It spolied all the water resources in the area and was an evil tool. The photos of those deformed were very sad, little children born as victims of a war they didnt even live through. Other heart rendering images were those painted by the children and their perceptions of war - bloodshed, dead bodies, tears, mass graves, and peace - soliders returned, families reuintied, unity joy and friendship. I arrived there abolutely exhausted and so chatted for about half an hour to an american guy called Dave who we later arranged to meet to do to a service at the cathedral. He also came out for a drink that night and changed his ticket from Nha Trang to Mui Ne to move on with our wee crowd.
The service, although all in Vietmanese, was just what I needed to focus on it being Easter. During all the talkie bits I read my little bible and applied some of the versus from the psalms to the songs the choir were singing. My church at home has a band for worship and is contemporary in its approach although Church of England, so am not used to 'traditional' services, but there is something very uplifting and majestic and somehow on a higher plane to hear voices in unison filling a vast space. It reminded me of Italy 2000 where I went to mass in the Vatican wih Pope John Paul II, an experience I shal never forget. There is definately a holy atmosphere in such places.
In the evening I met Elli and Tom as planned, and also Dave who I met today, and a few of Toms friends from his travels also joined us. I got on really well with Gemma, a girl from Birmingham who is just on her way out of Vietnam, who recently was living and working in Australia with her boyfriend and travelling for a year and a half already. She'll also be in India about the same time is me. We had a drink at Go 2 bar, (2 for one beers) had some cheap noodles at one of the many street cafes where everyone sits (almost toilet style!) on low plastic tables and chairs and then ended up at our cheapie hang out where you can get a Saigon bottle beer for under a dollar. There towards the end of the evening we met the strangest lady who was apparantly deaf and mute due to the effect of bombs. She was quite a character, drinking her beer and miming out her story in a way any professional artist would be proud of. Had another late night and no sleep before getting a bus to....
Money spent: Breakfast 94,000 dong, moto 12,000 dong, entrance 15,000 dong, water 4,000 dong, cigarettes 4,000 dong, War remnant museum 15,000 dong, moto 15,000 dong, dinner 10,000 dong, beers 25,000 dong.
Ton Cum, Central highlands, Vietnam (9th April)
Thursday 9th April - Ton Cum, Central Highlands Vietnam
I am sitting on another bus, a 12 hour overnighter - from the central highlands to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) only this time a bit plush which as yet I am unsure whether this is typical or atyical of Vietnam. Ton Cum is not the sort of place where there is a lot of toursit info and I had little choice but to rely on my guest house owner aka unoffical motorbike guide for the day whether this was a budget or upper class option. As always, I am forced to listen to the annoyingly loud and repetative strains of asian music (although thank goodness I can turn the speaker OFF above my head!!!), and there are absolutely no other westeners on here which suprises me in one way and yet not in another given my eperience of this region thus far. I have noticed in asia they are really anal about seat numbers. Half this bus is empty, including the back seat which I like to lie out on properly - I cant for the life of me sleep face up, even in a normal bed I sleep on my side or on my front. But no I had to sit in number 11! The guy practically dragged me there.
Today has been a good day. I was able to wake up to the internet, a novelty. Then I went out for the day with my guest house owner, a lovely 26 yr old Vietmanese man. We first went to the 'wooden church' which I had already heard about although I have little knowledge as to of its significance beyond its asthetic beauty. It was good for the soul to be inside a church which I am increasingly missing and I spent some time praying about stuff. Then we went around and about, just enjoying the scenery and a communcal meeting house which was a big thatched building on stilts where I reaslise there is actually a king called Ho Chi Minh! No he doenst live there, but a picture of him does!
Given last night was only the 2nd in about 7 weeks I had slept in a room by myself, I still didnt get a very good nights sleep! But at least I managed to catch up with uploading a whole bunch of photos on facebook and skpying my great uncle jack, granma, and mum. The signal was really good and goodness knows where it came from!
THe afternoon was geat because we drove right into the mountains, which are beauiful by the way, a cross between the french alps and the welsh brecon beacons - and scrambed up a waterfall. It is more pleasant trekking in milder climates than the jungle especially with the interesting addition of the bloomin leeches!
Itt has been an interrsting 2 days travelling as solo as you can get, with little or no interaction with any other westeners. Good preperstion for India I suppose. So I am now ready for the bustle that is Ho Chi Minh although I am not looking forward to arriving to the the notorious tuk tuk drivers at 5am! Gonna watch a movie now. Have to drown out the music somehow...
OK so now its 11pm we stopped for food just as I may possibly have started nodding off, and its just getting weirder. Nobody speaks english, the way they communicate to me is by necessity ie being shoved out of the way! This sounds crazy but I went to the loo, and there was none. Not even a hole in the ground. But there was a sink! - and the big bowl with water and a scoop in which one usually uses as a flush. So I could only assume you were meant to squat and pee on the floor. Sorry to be graphic, but really this is true travelling! I put two and two together, checked the other cublicle which only contained a blokes one, did the buisness and legged it.
I am not sure how I feel about the whole travelling solo thing. I mean this is a different level. This isnt coming abroad without knowing anyone and staying on the backpacker circuit where you really have no escuse to not spend every day and night with others if one so wishes. This is like, no choice, no option! I like it in one way, but occassionally I think yikes whos there to care if the bus goes without me and Im stuck in this god forsaken place without my rucksack?! But I think it'll just make me stronger and at the end of the day I stick out like a sore thumb (Mums point to me for the kids to look at like Im some circus attraction) how couldnt they miss me!
I am going to make more effort in this country to lean some of the language. I started earlier with my non offical guide. I was also helping him with his english. It reminded me a bit of Italy. But this is 3 weeks not 3 months. I'll be content with the absolute basics ie 'no thankyou, I'll walk!'
Oh, did I mention a kid has been sick in the seat in front and to the left of me. Nice. Lonely planet did warn me...
Money spent: 9 dollars bus, 9 dollars motorbike and guide, 1 dollar food, 1 dollar drinks.
I am sitting on another bus, a 12 hour overnighter - from the central highlands to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh) only this time a bit plush which as yet I am unsure whether this is typical or atyical of Vietnam. Ton Cum is not the sort of place where there is a lot of toursit info and I had little choice but to rely on my guest house owner aka unoffical motorbike guide for the day whether this was a budget or upper class option. As always, I am forced to listen to the annoyingly loud and repetative strains of asian music (although thank goodness I can turn the speaker OFF above my head!!!), and there are absolutely no other westeners on here which suprises me in one way and yet not in another given my eperience of this region thus far. I have noticed in asia they are really anal about seat numbers. Half this bus is empty, including the back seat which I like to lie out on properly - I cant for the life of me sleep face up, even in a normal bed I sleep on my side or on my front. But no I had to sit in number 11! The guy practically dragged me there.
Today has been a good day. I was able to wake up to the internet, a novelty. Then I went out for the day with my guest house owner, a lovely 26 yr old Vietmanese man. We first went to the 'wooden church' which I had already heard about although I have little knowledge as to of its significance beyond its asthetic beauty. It was good for the soul to be inside a church which I am increasingly missing and I spent some time praying about stuff. Then we went around and about, just enjoying the scenery and a communcal meeting house which was a big thatched building on stilts where I reaslise there is actually a king called Ho Chi Minh! No he doenst live there, but a picture of him does!
Given last night was only the 2nd in about 7 weeks I had slept in a room by myself, I still didnt get a very good nights sleep! But at least I managed to catch up with uploading a whole bunch of photos on facebook and skpying my great uncle jack, granma, and mum. The signal was really good and goodness knows where it came from!
THe afternoon was geat because we drove right into the mountains, which are beauiful by the way, a cross between the french alps and the welsh brecon beacons - and scrambed up a waterfall. It is more pleasant trekking in milder climates than the jungle especially with the interesting addition of the bloomin leeches!
Itt has been an interrsting 2 days travelling as solo as you can get, with little or no interaction with any other westeners. Good preperstion for India I suppose. So I am now ready for the bustle that is Ho Chi Minh although I am not looking forward to arriving to the the notorious tuk tuk drivers at 5am! Gonna watch a movie now. Have to drown out the music somehow...
OK so now its 11pm we stopped for food just as I may possibly have started nodding off, and its just getting weirder. Nobody speaks english, the way they communicate to me is by necessity ie being shoved out of the way! This sounds crazy but I went to the loo, and there was none. Not even a hole in the ground. But there was a sink! - and the big bowl with water and a scoop in which one usually uses as a flush. So I could only assume you were meant to squat and pee on the floor. Sorry to be graphic, but really this is true travelling! I put two and two together, checked the other cublicle which only contained a blokes one, did the buisness and legged it.
I am not sure how I feel about the whole travelling solo thing. I mean this is a different level. This isnt coming abroad without knowing anyone and staying on the backpacker circuit where you really have no escuse to not spend every day and night with others if one so wishes. This is like, no choice, no option! I like it in one way, but occassionally I think yikes whos there to care if the bus goes without me and Im stuck in this god forsaken place without my rucksack?! But I think it'll just make me stronger and at the end of the day I stick out like a sore thumb (Mums point to me for the kids to look at like Im some circus attraction) how couldnt they miss me!
I am going to make more effort in this country to lean some of the language. I started earlier with my non offical guide. I was also helping him with his english. It reminded me a bit of Italy. But this is 3 weeks not 3 months. I'll be content with the absolute basics ie 'no thankyou, I'll walk!'
Oh, did I mention a kid has been sick in the seat in front and to the left of me. Nice. Lonely planet did warn me...
Money spent: 9 dollars bus, 9 dollars motorbike and guide, 1 dollar food, 1 dollar drinks.
Crossing the random border into Vietnam..
Wednesday 8th April - crossing the random border into Vietnam
Was feeling just a tad panicky earlier - I had gone through the entire day - a 2 hour motorbike trip to the border (with my big backpack) which hadn't yet made it into my lonely planet guide! - into the unfamiliar and from stories slightly scary territory of Vietnam, and 2 local buses plus all the places inbetween and walking around a busy town in the evening - without A SINGLE other westener. I managed to get all the way to Ton Cum in the same day as leaving Rathinikiri, which is in the central highlands of Vietnam and had been recomended to me by a couple I briefly met at the tree top guest house in Rathanakiri. I waved goodbye to Don not really knowing what to expect, bravely setting off into virgin territoy...I had no dong (Vietnam currency), and little way of knowing how I was going to continue my journey upon arriving at the border. Reckless some might say, but at least I had the good old US dollars, which came in handy on one bus ride as a waved a dollar at the lady who proceeded to laugh in my face. But the driver was happy to pocket it as an extra bit of cash and I breathed a sigh of relief; my smiles and helpless facial expressions had worked..!
Before the bus, I had journeyed with some excitable male youths who picked me up at the border and who wanted 5 usd for the short journey, I got em down to 3 which I had learned from one of the security men was the norm for locals if it was indeed a proper bus which was debatabl. We seemed to stop all over town before actually heading off, they were delivering lumbur - or something, anyhow, it brought a lot of insects with it which coupled with the lady sitting behind me transporting birds, was an alternative experience if nothing else. ..
Wow I've just found wireless. In my bed of all places. This is getting better and better. Helps cushion the blow of spending 6 dollar on a room all to myself. I've spent the last 2 1/2 hours uploading photos to facebook while I have a good connection. People better bloomin view them! But also its a practicality. If my laptop was stolen, the thought of losing all my photos would make me want to cry for the rest of my life!! And I think I felt a bit fearful of entering Vietnam because I have heard so many stories of thefts ie a whole gang of motorbikes surrounding you and making off with your stuff. The people riding them that is ;)
Have to say as good as it is sharing the cost of rooms with others, I may look forward to more nights of my own company. Being under my cover with my laptop has a familiar feeling of home about it and a nice way alternative way to chill out or spend an evening in front of the TV. People tell me Im brave doing this on my own. My friend Christina even said I would make a good missionary because I dont mind taking risks. I dont know though. I am a controlled risk taker. Some might think Im a bit reckless but truthfully ive never got in trouble for it yet. But maybe thats the big guy upstairs protecting me. It has occured to me Ive been in vulnerable situations since Ive been alone. Bit nothing yet where I've felt genuinely afraid. Think you have to keep your wits about you and trust your instinct.
I really like this place, probably because it is not at all touristy. There are loads of street stalls and markets and everything is cheap ha ha.
By the way, today broke the record - there were no less than 7 people on one moped!!! A guy was driving, with what I presume to be 5 kids sitting behind him and one facing him straddling the front wheel. If I hadnt been balancing so precariously myself, I'd have taken a photo...
Money spent: Breakfast and drinks 5 dollars, moto to border 15 dollar, buses 3 and 1 dollar, accomodation 6 dollar TOTAL: 31 dollars
Was feeling just a tad panicky earlier - I had gone through the entire day - a 2 hour motorbike trip to the border (with my big backpack) which hadn't yet made it into my lonely planet guide! - into the unfamiliar and from stories slightly scary territory of Vietnam, and 2 local buses plus all the places inbetween and walking around a busy town in the evening - without A SINGLE other westener. I managed to get all the way to Ton Cum in the same day as leaving Rathinikiri, which is in the central highlands of Vietnam and had been recomended to me by a couple I briefly met at the tree top guest house in Rathanakiri. I waved goodbye to Don not really knowing what to expect, bravely setting off into virgin territoy...I had no dong (Vietnam currency), and little way of knowing how I was going to continue my journey upon arriving at the border. Reckless some might say, but at least I had the good old US dollars, which came in handy on one bus ride as a waved a dollar at the lady who proceeded to laugh in my face. But the driver was happy to pocket it as an extra bit of cash and I breathed a sigh of relief; my smiles and helpless facial expressions had worked..!
Before the bus, I had journeyed with some excitable male youths who picked me up at the border and who wanted 5 usd for the short journey, I got em down to 3 which I had learned from one of the security men was the norm for locals if it was indeed a proper bus which was debatabl. We seemed to stop all over town before actually heading off, they were delivering lumbur - or something, anyhow, it brought a lot of insects with it which coupled with the lady sitting behind me transporting birds, was an alternative experience if nothing else. ..
Wow I've just found wireless. In my bed of all places. This is getting better and better. Helps cushion the blow of spending 6 dollar on a room all to myself. I've spent the last 2 1/2 hours uploading photos to facebook while I have a good connection. People better bloomin view them! But also its a practicality. If my laptop was stolen, the thought of losing all my photos would make me want to cry for the rest of my life!! And I think I felt a bit fearful of entering Vietnam because I have heard so many stories of thefts ie a whole gang of motorbikes surrounding you and making off with your stuff. The people riding them that is ;)
Have to say as good as it is sharing the cost of rooms with others, I may look forward to more nights of my own company. Being under my cover with my laptop has a familiar feeling of home about it and a nice way alternative way to chill out or spend an evening in front of the TV. People tell me Im brave doing this on my own. My friend Christina even said I would make a good missionary because I dont mind taking risks. I dont know though. I am a controlled risk taker. Some might think Im a bit reckless but truthfully ive never got in trouble for it yet. But maybe thats the big guy upstairs protecting me. It has occured to me Ive been in vulnerable situations since Ive been alone. Bit nothing yet where I've felt genuinely afraid. Think you have to keep your wits about you and trust your instinct.
I really like this place, probably because it is not at all touristy. There are loads of street stalls and markets and everything is cheap ha ha.
By the way, today broke the record - there were no less than 7 people on one moped!!! A guy was driving, with what I presume to be 5 kids sitting behind him and one facing him straddling the front wheel. If I hadnt been balancing so precariously myself, I'd have taken a photo...
Money spent: Breakfast and drinks 5 dollars, moto to border 15 dollar, buses 3 and 1 dollar, accomodation 6 dollar TOTAL: 31 dollars
Monday, 4 May 2009
Rathanikiri, Cambodia's 'wild east'
Sunday 5th April - Rathinakiri volcano crater
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
Ok so its 2am I am off on a 3 day intense trek tomorrow including 2 nights camping in hammocks and am waiting for Don to get back on our borrowed motorbike.
It has been a completely random amazing day. Started off in true fashion when I sensed it might take a while to rouse Don but to be fair I didnt wake up until 10am myself - he is obviously having a bad influence on me! Or a indeed a good influence, I have to say waking up at 7am each morning wasn't much fun.
Anyway, we got up and went for brekkie in the market where the fun began. This place is very, er backward tourist-wise so we are in the majority, nobody speaks english and all of the food menus- if they exist - are in cambodian so for brekkie I could only choose what I saw evidence of on the cooker and that was omlette, as they had to go and buy a drink i ordered from elsewhere, I had to have a coke as they didnt understand lemon iced tea or orange juice ;)
We found a trek that was more expensive than others but I felt a connection to the guy 'Mr Nan' who ran it. For 90 dollars, in the jungle, in the national park, will probably see some gibbons! - and all inclusive. I have been dying for a hard core trek since Ive been here and signed up. This lovely man (who said I had such beautiful eyes he couldnt look into them too much - just so lovely and genuine no sleazy or anything) lent us his motorbike for the day and we headed to the volcanic crator which we walked around and then had a swim in. Things improved further when a family gave us some beer then another family invited us to share some food and more beer...! Cambodia people are so generous and all got such a playful attitude honestly when I swam with the mothers in the water they were splashing about and playing games (in their pajamas!) Iike big kids. The women are all very affectionate and one kissed and touched me so much to group approval if it was England I would seriously have thought she was a lesbian...
Some looks and photots ensued when I stripped to my bikini. I checked with a women whether it was ok and she said 'same same' but the guys thought I was some porn star and were very interested in taking photos of me! When a bunch of people arrived we had met on the bus the other girls had the same thing although one kept a t-shirt on. 2 times now I have been groped by a Cambodian - I was out on a rubber ring and he swam over to me, think he was even half my age. Is a shame because like last time it cast a bit of a shadow over an otherwise great day.
The crator was beautiful and a very nice place to chill out. The large crowd of us joined the buskerswho had been playing for a few hours now, and we had a great time jigging to their local sounds, and banging our own suacepans and bottles in an effort to join in. It was cute because they were shy and said we were the largest group they had performed to!
We motored back to the guys place and spent the remainder of the evening just having a fantastic time chatting and drinking and eating and laughing with the best bunch of people. There was a lovely australian couple (the guy was half cambodian), an australian girl Mya and english girl Katie who lives in Clapham near where Im gonna be living, a dutch couple who i didnt speak to so much and were more shy, and an american couple who let me use their shower as I was feeling a bit yucky after the lake. There were also guys from the peace corps who were on vacation, and of course the band who we had invited along earlier in the day. Rooftops guest house is a really great place and the staff let us keep going even when they started nodding off in their chairs, which is quite a common sight in Sout East Asia. They seem to be able to sleep through anything!
The night passed and we thankfully got back safely because basically the motorbike has got water in it from the jungle and either doesnt start or lurches forward when it does start or only stays in first gear so that was an interesting experience! I wish I could stay and spend more time with these guys but we booked our trek and provided I dont feel too crap on no sleep and copious amounts of whiskey I should be cool. One of the best evenings I have had so far. Im gonna be OK.
Jungle 1 and 2 in Rathaniki - 6th / 7th April
I am sitting by a campfire in Cambodia jungle, covered head toe in any and every conceivable item of clothing I have in my small day pack for a 3 day trek. 1 down, 2 to go...
This morning, on a maximum of 5 hours sleep after meeting some pretty cool people the day before, Don and I set off to meet 'Mr Nan' - our tour guide.
A bit of faffing ensued, as we hadnt had breakfast, Don had left someting back at our guest house, & I had to replace the two pairs of flip flops I have broken in as many days previously. Mr Nan had provided me with a pair of size 42 shoes and a pair of socks. We set off on motobikes with our face masks on, a necessity in this dusty province. Needless to say the roads were, er challenging but actually, to my joy it was actually a kinda cheap version of dirt track biking! Dodging potholes, performing a motor dance while skidding over loose sand, and trying to stay vertical over precarious rocks, through rivers, under tree branches, and trying to keep tail bone intact over the bumps made for quite an intense experience! Basically to get into the national park, rather than waste time in the surrounding forest, we are motorbiking what would otherwise be a full day trekking. Hence sometimes we were literally motobiking down very narrow walking trails. All good fun.
We stopped off for lunch at a remote village, where we had tasty noodle soup made by My Nan. I tried to be friendly but everyone seemed quite distant and the children, although keen to observe us, did not respond to my smiles or attempts at limited conversation! I managed to crack a couple of them when I showed them photos I had taken, a novelty I suppose. The village was very simple, a few pigs and chickens around the wooden houses on stilts. We were apparantly at the chiefs house, - a guy who spent most of his time sitting in a hammock, smoking. When we arrived he asked for majuana!
Continuing our trip, we eventually started trekking but dissapointingly only a short distance before stopping to make camp;
Don went to shower at the waterfall, where when we stripped - to our horror - we found leeches attatched to our legs! We burnt them off (I was torm between laughing crying and punching something at this point - I think Don was worried it might be him..!) but they left their mark - a trail of blood that simply wouldnt clot even after several minutes and a dip in the waterpool. Is really freaky seeing expanding creatures stuck to your skin!!!!
The waterfall was small, but oh so good to get clean (ish) and cool down after a very hot and sweaty day.
Come the evening, we time travelled 200 years... The guide had forgotten the cooking pot, so we chopped down wood and used bamboo as a comtainer to heat water and make more...noodles ;) It felt very authentic, and I was also amazed to see a 'natural' candle burning make out of rubber tree. Or something. Back to basics here!
My only wish is that some of the guys I met last night came too, as it was such a lovely crowd and people I would have liked to have spent more time with. But I suppose me and Don alone is a more 'authentic' experience just us and two cambodians makes for more interaction with the culture rather than other backpackers. I hope I can hack the bugs. They are everywhere here and to be honest although it sounds stupid (jungle! hellooo?!) but I didnt think about all the insects when I was thinking about this place....there is somewhat of a magnetic attraction between me and bugs! I'd like to say ifs flattering...but could very happily do without it...!
We have also already seen signs of wild boar and bear so in our hammocks Don and Mr Nan are either side of me 'for protection!'
Well, come bed time things went bottom up. We got into our hammocks to sleep...and the next moment my hip had made contact with one of the supporting wooden poles and I was on the floor. Lots of sorry's ensued. But also Don had - worryingly - landed on his tailbone. Things go awkward from there as Don was basically wanting to go home the next morning and ask for our money back. It was an overpriced tour to begin with and we didn't like the way it was panning out. We had paid 30 dollars a day thinking it would be better than other treks on offer but basically this wasnt the case. I knew I wouldnt sleep well thinking it may happen again. It developed into quite a heated discussion and basically he claimed to have spent all the money we had given him - 120 dollars! - I slept really really really badly but ironically because of the cold and Nan and Don snoring rather than anything else.
The following morning Nan was in a sulk (he's a very emotional guy but was peeing me off playing the 'friends' card, thought using emotional blackmail etc etc) but fortunately we managed to retain smiles with 'billion' the underdog. Mr Nan obviously kept the bulk of the money and paid this guy like 10 dollars a day. I just wanted to get back to the village and onto Vietnam but to be honest it took a fair while, stopping at the village on the way back and having breaks etc it was very frustrating. The funny thing was I made two kids cry in the village - I must look very scary to them!! We felt like we were intruders really, despite attempts to make friends by making paper aeroplanes and such like. Who knows what this is going to cost but 90 dollars for 3 days not even trekking would be the biggest ever if Nan decides to be an arsehole and not give us our money back.
Me and Mr Nan nearly came off our bike when lorry veered around the corner a full speed with not warning (normally ppl beep their horn) and unfortunately Don properly came off his bike as he had to break and skid to avoid the lorry head on. He had a nasty large graze on his arm and torso. Can the day get any worse?
More drama ensued in the evening...hassle, crap, etc etc long debates with Mr Nan who has dropped in my esteem to below zero, and the long and the short of it is Nan is being anal and not being fair. We said we would pay for half and I thought that was pretty generous considering what happened and the fact we hadnt even done any trekking. But he was adamant not more than 60 so we ended up paying 60 dollars each for, basically a motorbike ride. You win some you lose some. At one point the police were involved but apparantly they are so corrupt to get more money wed have to offer a bribe anyway and cut our losses. A joke, a huge dissapointment but definately a memory and a story to tell...I'm sure in a couple of days I'll be able to laugh about it....but maybe not the leeches. Urggh shiver.
The day I shoulda gone home!
OK so another hot and humid day abounds and I am sitting on a very dirty and rickety local bus to Rathanikii - the wild east of Cambodia. I have backtracked somewhat and in hindsight it woluld have been much better for me to do this part of Cambodia on the way from Laos, but it was a last minute thought and now I'm actually glad I didnt because I would have had the worst of my food poisoning here which would be even worse than the musty Phnom Phen room without a window and Nate's insensative comments. And that's saying something!
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
I'm glad I had an extra day in Phnom Phen to see Lakeside. However the accomodation we chose wasn't great - the bathroom smelt of urine and their were ants crawling along the walls. But we wanted to be near te bus pick up as it was such a ridiculously early start!
In keeping with my new resolution to make every single day count, I am doing my best to stay positive on 3 hours sleep (Don wanted to do an all-nighter and this was my compromise!) smelly clothes, pot-holed roads and annoying Cambodian music blaring right by our ears. The up side of travelling by bus is seeing the landscape which can at times be stunning but always interesting, witnessing local vollage life. Did I mention that it is a 12 hour bus ride and I had to go to the toilet in half site of a whole bus load of people. But you dare not venture too deep or too far due to the enexploded ordinances. I actually saw something that looked like one but it was close to the road so figured it couldnt be but it was not a normal stop - we got a puncture and had to pull over to change the tire.
I am really missing church and talking to other christians. Like when I was in Italy, it can be really isolating. I'm gonna try and find an english speaking church in Ho Chi Minh City. Fortunately I have a couple of friends I yahoo message which are a great support but other than that really miss chatting to Luci. I had a good chat to Bas last night actually. Ive got a lot of time for Bas, he can have a proper conversation and even though he gives the male perspective on things, as one would expect, he has a oot of depth and a really good outlook on many things including travelling and the whole experience of it. However I'm not entirely sure I understand his choices. I agree with making the most of an experience - but he split up with his girlfriend back home to do so so he wouldn't miss her and be in two places as it were. I suppose it makes sense in theory but I'm not sure what it says about a relationship.
Its funny how travellers are here to have their eyes opened and their perspectives widened and yet I always sense a prejudice towards christianity. I just miss having people around who innately understand where you're coming from. I think its the hardest part of travelling for me.
Phnom Phen (the 2nd time round!)
Sometime in April....
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Had a bit of a stress in Phnom Phen finding wireless and skype but (finally) finalised my return plane ticket. Am gonna fly out of Bankok on 11th May, and out of India on 21st June I didnt really know what to do so just counted a straight 6 weeks with the view of making a decision - any bloody decision - in the face of my ridiculous indecision. I just hate being tied to plans! I will have to ponder that one. Is it because I think I will miss out on something better? Well its made me feel better anyhow as it has been playing on my mind for ages - but esp in last week (I have a theory about a 7 week rule) recognised I have been feeliing really emotional and unsettled and homesick which I am unaccustomed to so recognised was not good time to make big decisions. But nothing is irreversible - to change my ticket again is like 30 quid. Bargain really!
I wonder at people that travel. I wonder if we are all searching for something, or whether we are running away from something. It's certainly an escape form reality and monotiny. A desire for experience. But what experience? Some travellers sit round getting stoned and I wonder why they bother to move from their couches! None of these are bad things. But some people I meet seem to 'travel' permanently which I dont know whether I respect or secretly pity. Is there something fundamentally wrong with them or have they got the right idea?! Bas totally agrees with me!!!!! He is looking overmy shoulder as we chat. I am currently at 'lakeside' a a backpacker hangout part of town where the guys are staying. It is bohemiam and chilled, good music, ambiotic, and I wish me and Nate had stayed here before. Have decided to stick around another day and visit the orphanage they are volunteering at. I need a fix of helping or doing something - it is a very self centred existance travelling. Im not used to not having such a sense of purposeless each day apart from having fun!
My impressions of Cambodia are very positive.I think I love it. I have basically loved each country I have visited thus far, and each have somethings in common but are very different. Cambodia really reminds me of Mozambique in Africa. Ive been trying to think why. Possibly the poverty, the wooded houses on stilts, the unkept roads, the red dirt, the image of mothers carrying children. I have also experienced more 'hassle' in Cambodia than Laos or Thailand but deal with it with a smile and sense of lightness. Everything here can and should be done with a smile. So many tuk tuk drivers want your buisness it is quite sad really how desperate they can be - after all they all have wives and families to support. However occassionally you are pullled up short - Nate recounted a story of a lady who 'rented' a different child a day to go begging. Many children hound you, asking for you to buy them food and then make a beeline for powdered baby milk which they take back to their mothers. For their younger siblings or for the black market who knows but either way they need the money.
Someone told me the average family get by on 80 dollars a month. Crazy hey.
I spent the evening at Happys and played a bit of pool and drank a bit of beer. Ended up leaving 2.30 ish and got a good nights sleep back at our 7 dollar a night dump of guesthouse where the bathroom smells of urine ;)
Friday 3rd April or something like that.
Sorted bus ticket so not tempted to stick around Phnom Phen - the jungle will take a few days if we do the 4 day trek we're planning on, and I'm already eating into my Vietnam visa. Also travel takes so long around here. But I think Cambodia has stolen a little piece of my heart! I took a moto 6 k out of town to the orphanage (Don was nowhere to be seen at the time we arranged suprise suprise!) - and spent a wonderful afternoon and evening at Save Poor Children of Asia which is a very small orphanage (10 kids) in a village-like community where David and Bas are vounteering for a week. The orphanage is also connected to a school which provides free English classes 4 times a day. Poor David is absolutely covered in bed bug bites - they stayed at the orphanage the first night and he was eaten alive so they decided to stay at Lakeside and commute. The classroom is essentially a tent, and the lessons taught largely by a transient stream of volunteers which I didn't envy in the unbearable heat or range of ability in the one class. I just observed at first, and then looked around the orphanage which is decieving because it is more reminiscent of a large family home. It is very simplistic by necessity I suppose, funded entirely by donation, and ran by Samith, a gentle Cambodian man who was very welcoming and full of smiles. We accompanied him to a monks house - the village guru, who people go to for advice and encouragement. Much of the time was in Cambodian, but the expeirence in itselt was pretty cool. Samith later explained to me he wasnt buddhist, or christian, or anything, because the principles he lived by - like helping people - were shared by all religions and there was no one right way. This man has a big heart I can tell. He also shared with me that he found it hard doing what he did (running the orphanage), but he stayed strong and 'lucky' - there is this idea that you will be lucky in life if you put emphasis on the right things. A karma type mentality. That good things will happen to you if you're a good person.
Bas and I then went on a little trip to the main road on rickety old bikes (which I find such fun dodging the potholes and moto drivers!) to buy a stash of cokes and sprites for their 'Khmer New Year' party which despite explanations I still havn't been able to discern the concept of considering its March! - and sat and had a good chin wag in a very Cambodian cafe over a jug of 2 dollar beer. Even sitting in a cafe is an experience here especially when there's no other westerners around. Back at the orphanage, with a very rumbling tummy, I ate possibly one of my top 3 most delicious meals in my asian culinary experience. It was somewhat of a special occassion however, as it was the leaving party of an Isreali guy who had been volunteering here for 2 months. I was so full (think I ate real quick because was so hungry - hadn't eaten since breakfast!) that when the festivities began I literally couldn't move from my seat. But one very cute little boy soon dragged me up to the sound of Cambodia Karaoke from some cheesy DVD amplified by speakers, and I shuffled my way across the dance floor - well, ok squirmed in a circular fashion around a table in true Cambodian style.
The kids are very happy here - no indication of any trauma stemming from estrangement from their loved ones (many of the kids here have one or more parent, they just cant afford to support them) Just as in Mozambique they were like any other children, laughing and playing seemingly without a care in the world. It was such a fun evening. I love when you are so absorbed in a situation you're not really thinking about or care much about anything else. It was a bit like in Sihoukeville when I spent the afternoon eating dancing and drinking and laughing (a lot) with that lovely Cambodian family. Living 'in the moment' is something I need to cultivate more. Such times as this it strikes me how incredibly amazing it is to witness and experience such things, all the more valuable for their simplicity. It really is a world away from England and English culture and English behaviour. People who don't travel miss out on so much!
I found myself thinking if I hadn't booked my ticket outta here I would be sorely tempted to stick around myself. I was even a little emotional when it came so say goodbye especially when the kids envelop you and you have to explain actually you're not coming back tomorrow. It was also emotional watching the Isreali guy say goodbye to the people he had worked lived and breathed with for 2 months. I dont know how people manage not to cry in such situations I blubber at everything nowdays!
Went back to the guys guest house at lakeside and chilled. David and Bas are quite tired from all the teaching and I can see why. It's intense and the kids have so much energy in the humidity. It is also difficult teaching such a range of abilities with a class you are unfamiliar with.
It occured to me as we were getting into our tuk tuk returning from the village, that today than I would ordinarilly be catching my flight tomorrow am which means I would otherwise be in Bankok tonight. It was just the sign I needed to know I've done the right thing. Or at least not the wrong one! Thats good enough for me. From here on in I am going to maximise every day and not let myself be affected by things superfluous to my travelling experience. This may be once in a life time stuff.
As I sit here I feel slightly uncomfortable (which pees me off to be in this position) that a guy I have barely spoken to seems to assume I may be amenable to going back to his room with him. Some guys are so arrogant theres not a lot you can say. He was flicking through my camera earlier in the evening, commenting about seeing me in a bikini and then making an issue of me not extending my leg to itch my many mosquito bites, and I have to say what a twat. I may be the object of his lust but I don't appreciate knowing it and trying to avoid making any contact with him which was difficult as he was sitting quite close to me. He seemed such a nice guy in one way - he had spent 2 months volunteering at the orphanage where Bas and David were at for a week. Before that he had worked for 2 months doing another voluntary project. I just don't understand men. Nuf said.
Just one point: right now there is actually a torrential downpour threatening to made the bamboo roof cave in. Which wouldn't be such an issue if it wasn't for the fact that we're heading into jungle territoy tomorrow - with no waterproofs and me with not just no trekking shoes - oh no - but no flip flops either, as mine broke when I was swinging around an excitable kid by the armpits. Such is life and perhaps more exciting for the unpredictablity if you ride it by the seat of your pants.
Siem Reap to Phnom Phen Thurs 2nd April
Thurs 2nd April from Siem Reap to Phnom Phen
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
OK so Im getting so chilled out I dont know what day or date it is. The day Nate left to go to Vietnam I felt pretty crap because I was on day 2 of hangover and also had not slept so was not a happy bunny. Still I got up and was checked out by 8am (whaaaat?!), went to the National Museum and also to the Handicapped society who work with victims of UXO's - it acts as an information and rehabilitation centre, with adults and kids going for physiotherapy and to be fitted with artificial limbs. I walked down the road to the hospital we had gone to the bach concert in aid of, to see if they wanted volunteers, and the kids and mothers were queuing round the block it was quite a sight. I moved to Garden Village which is a popular backpacker guest house with free internet and chilled rooftop bar where David Bas and Don stayed. Got a hut for 3 dollars. Coulkdnt rouse Don who said I could share his room, but later realised I had been knocking on the wrong door!
In the evening in the rooftop attached to the hostel, I met a lovely crowd including an english girl Vicky and her friend Paul who had met travelling. Was just a nice relaxed evening chatting which was good because I was still feeling really sick (!) but probably would still have been persuaded to go out even though the only thing that had been gettting me through the day was the prospect of having an early night! Vicky was very nice and I realised most of my travels I have hung out with guys but she was a really genuine and kind person and it was nice to have a proper girly chat. Guys just dont have the same depth of emotions or contemplations. She and Paul are also going to Vietnam so hopefully will see them again. Had been missing Nate earlier in day - have been travelling with him for a solid month now and felt a bit lost but realise there's always other people to enjoy spending time with and its not the end of the world. I have realised about myself that I love the freedom of travelling independantly but need people around me I have some sort of connection with (ie not just anyone who happens to be there) to make experiences more enjoyable.and meaningful. I think I get the right balance of flexibility and adapting to other peoples plans and ideas but also when I feel strongly about something, going off and doing something I really want to do. But to be honest there is always someone to do it with. Like Don was up for going to the jungle (but no way he'd get his arse in gear to do it alone!) which I am well excited about because it is like wild country and I have been craving a proper adventure trip. Planning on a 4 days trek and kayaking so bring it on....!
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