Zdiar, High Tantra Mountains, Slovakia 22nd & 23rd.

High Tantras: The alpine, snow-strewn High Tatras jut out of the valley floor north of Poprad where we got our train to from Bratislava (then a bus for 1.95 to Zdiar, (beware out of season timetable ie there is a 6.25 pm bus but then not til 9.35pm.)Some five million people a year go to the Tantras to walk, climb, cycle or ski. A 600km network of hiking trails, chairlifts and cable cars reach all the alpine valleys and some peaks, with chaty (mountain huts) to stop at along the way. In high summer and winter seasons, trails are densely crowded. You’ll need to climb further than in Slovakia’s other mountains to have some of it to yourself, but the rewards are breathtaking. - Lonley Planet

Accomodation: Ginger Monkey, Zdiar, High Tantras 13 euros includes breakfast. Wicked hostel except powdered milk and cold rooms! Heating comes on at midnight but not before! But they are great at lending out coats and gloves and giving local info. Many people stay longer than planned. Is a bit of a boozy hostel...nights sleep was interupted quite a lot by late night drinkers!

I actually woke up quite early in Bratislava and spent the best part of 2 hours uploading photos to facebook as my camera memory is nearly full. Then it was quite a rush to get some tesco shopping and walk to the train station for 12.10

On the train to Poprad in the north of Slovakia and the gateway to the Tantras were a bunch of drunken and slightly smelly Slovaks so we were glad when they got off! The journey passed uneventfully, but I really enjoyed the gorgeous scenery esp one region where there were foliage of yellow, greens and browns in a whole variety of hues and like Croatia the landscape changed quite quickly within a short distance.

Due to it being out of season, there was no 5.30 bus so in effect we had to wait 1 1/2 hours in rather cold weather and it was dark by the time we got on the bus (platform 5) but fortunately a couple of kiwi guys were also staying at ginger monkey hostel because in the dark it was hard to see the landmark directions / where to get off that I had copied off of the website, and it was all down to me because Rozie was in effect blind due to not having her contacts in!

First impressions of the hostel: very homely, much busier than I imagined at this time of year, I really like the wood flooring and panelling and warmth of the kitchen and definately looking forward to watching one of their many DVDs in the lounge! They made a Thai green (veg) curry in the evening which we decided to chip into as it seemed the more sociable option than using our organised and rather sub standard pasta and sauce which is almost coming out of my ears! The staff mingle with the guests and there is an air of informality which I like a lot.

There's lots of interesting people here including 6 that bought a camper van and are basically sleeping in it most of the time but hook up with hostels to use the facilities or just a comfy bed as a treat. I would like to do this as its cheaper and a different way of travelling.

Money spent: Shopping 13.23 plus 3.23 shared stuff, Train 14.40, bus 2.20, drink 1.10, accom 13, hostel curry meal 3.

Thurs 22nd first full day

It was quite cold last night but had a cozy duvet and nicked 2 extra blankets from the lounge. Had a nice breakfast which is included (but the free 'all day' tea and coffee use bloody powder milk how crap is that!?) and then headed out on a supposed 2 or 4 hour walk depending on whether you came back after the river walk and before the forest walk or not. Boy oh boy, it was snowy! I didn't really expect this, don't get me wrong it was absolutely awesome but I do not have the right footwear!! Connor, Ro, an American girl called Jackie, me and Wally the dog left at about 11.30 am. We walked down to the bus stop and then started following the green trail with medically hyperactive dog in tow, or should I say nearly pulling my arm out of it's socket. The path itself altered between extreme mud and slush and extreme (deep!) fluffy white snow. It seemed we were arctic explorers, er, but without the map or any sensible gear but wading through thick snow trying to ignore the icy feet feeling as we got progressivly more wet, and as we trampled over hidden footpaths and marker trails, ducking under or struggling over the copious branches that had fallen in the way. We ended up losing the trail and having to scramble up a hill to get our bearings. We wernt too far from the ski lifts and walked back along the concrete road to the hostel stopping by the little corner shop on the way back.

Made pasta and sauce for a late lunch upon our return and had our bread for tea. I think my 1 euros red wine is responsible for my head ache ha ha.

Money spent: Shopping 2.33, accom 13.

Friday 23rd Oct - 2nd day High Tantras

Today I was up and out on the 10.50 bus to do a 5 hour walk with American Jackie and another American guy. This time we lined our shoes with plastic bags we looked like fahionistas baby! the serious trekkers must have wondered what had hit them - but I'm glad we did because the combination of slush, mud and various compositions of snow made life difficult enough! It was quite hard to remain vertical and we all had a few near-falls. Because we bombed it (we actually got to the top in 2 hours rather than 3 and back down in 1 1/2 rather than 2) we were all quite hot, and I kinda wished I didnt have so many clothes on me! But on the descent I was glad I did because my feet were like icicles once again where the good old plastic bags had let the snow through in the end. The walk itself was awesome and it felt so good to be out trekking in the genuinley 'fresh' air! Much of the trek followed a stream which was just so pretty with the fallen snow even if the surrounding visability was quite misty.

We ended up getting the 3.55 bus back which meant time for a shower and a film before heading out to the local pizzeria for the hostels traditional pizza night!

Money spent: Accom 13, pizza and beer 3 euros (shared) and bus 2 euros.

Bratislava, Tues 21th- Weds 22nd Oct

Accomodation: Patio Hostel, Spitalksa 35, 811 08 Bratislava, advertised on web for 6.90 but they added on 10% as we hadn't booked online and also city tax so came to under a tenner in the end.

Bratislava: If you focus on the compact historic centre, you’ll see cobblestoned roads, pedestrian plazas, pastel 18th-century rococo buildings and street cafés galore. Expand your gaze and you can’t miss the institutional housing blocks and bizarre communist construction beyond. An age-old castle shares the skyline with a 1970s UFO-like bridge. And that’s Bratislava: a mix of new, old and older. All of which is worth a look. As post-EU-membership investment pours in, the whir of construction equipment in all quarters signals that Slovakia’s capital is growing. The city has a buzz to it: beautiful people wearing black flock to the newest chichi eatery as soon as it opens. Weekend nights it’d be odd if you didn’t see a gang or two of non-Slovak-speaking blokes wandering around the streets of the old town. There’s something a bit reckless about the development, though. Zoning laws are largely ignored, and an odd mix of antireform-minded parties took control of the parliament in June 2006.

Who knows what the town will be like in a few years, but for now the old centre is supremely strollable. Amble around the mazelike pedestrian alleys, stopping for a coffee – or an adult beverage or two – in cafés along the way. Hike up to the city castle (or head out to the suburbs to see Devín castle). You may want to pop into a museum if it’s raining, but otherwise the best thing to do is just to take in the different views, even as it all changes before your eyes. - from Lonely Planet.

OK so we got on a bus from Vienna at 9.30 am it only took us half and hour to get to the tube station and the bus ride was only a little over an hour - after all Vienna and Bratislava are the two closest capital cities in the world.

Arriving at Novy Most (the sight of the UFO restaurant) near the castle, it was a bit overcast but we found our intended hostel without too much trouble, by far the cheapest in Slovakia. We dumped our bags in the luggage room as check in wasn't til 1pm and wandered around the city, with some retail therapy for Rozie (of course ha ha). She headed back after we had wandered the cute cobbled streets and I strolled up to the castle which I couldn't believe was shut for several months for renovation! I did however find this amazing free photography exhibition - Filip Kulisev 'Amazing Planet' which true to form, actually was amazing! He is a travel photographer and I was blown away with some already awesome landscapes or sights that he managed to capture in a very unusual way - with heightened colour or textures or contours which often made the photos look like paintings. It re-inspired me to visit South America as that is where many of the photos were taken, Bolivia especially looks incredible.

After being at the castle, I met up with Connor (aussie we met in Lake Bled) in the main square. He was just visiting for the day from Vienna, ironically to then go to Krakow which doesn't really geographically make sense but he's staying with a friend so guess he gets the free accom. We enjoyed wandering round some more, me popping into the state opera and philharmonic but there was no shows suitable for us this evening (normally there are really cheap opera seats but the cheapest left was 17 euros and sung in German..) ending up in a slovak pub on Obchonda where I was very disciplined and only had a cappo as I was due to eat there with my sister later, and he ate one of the traditional soup in a roll which is exactly as its name suggests. Its got a great atmosphere and we sat by a wood burning stove which was gorgeous and warm after the coldness outside. I was amazed I had managed to get through the day, my sis had gone back for a sleep which is all I really felt like but didn't want to waste the only day we are here in Bratislava. I imagine in the sun it would be lovely to while away some hours in cafe shops and hanging about in the main square, but in these temperatures you really have to keep moving or perish!

I grabbed a shower hack at the hostel, and then we and 3 guys we met chatting in the common room headed out for some food, again at the Slovak pub which we got a 10% discount at for being with Patio Hostel. I didnt realise but here there are actually free washing and drying facilities! But as we did our washing at Annas we didnt have cause to use them but what a cool idea! Rozie paid 10 euro the last time she did hers.

I ate some traditional meal - Slvak pastry with slovak cheese and something I wish I remembered the name but never mind! On the way to another bar, we went past these cool steps in the path that made musical notes when you stepped - or jumped as in the case of me and my sis - on them!

I really liked Bratislava, wandering the streets again with amazing architecture and a lot of character. I could happily have stayed another day but in reality I have seen what there is to see and need to press on. We're gonna get a train to Porad tomorrow and much of the day will be taken up with travel I wish I had a good book!

Money spent: Bus 6 euros, cappo 1.33 euros, dinner and beer 5 euros in Slovak pub, beer 70 cents, accom 9.80 euros.

Vienna 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th Oct.

Our travel day from Lake Bled was long and uneventful, getting the bus to Ljubjana and then the 6 hour train to Vienna and then another bus to Pilgrimgasse where my friend lives! I had a frustrating morning trying to upload my pics to picasa with Leons aid but it wasnt to be. I did go for a wander for an hour and bought some earings and hairclips and bought and sent a postcard to my Dad - which Leon commented I replaced my rejected cards in completely the wrong place. Its funny hes a nice guy but we are so opposite - he is typically classic in the way he views the world and I am typically romantic. I also have no patience like with Picasa I would rather have spent the time uploading to facebook which while not so good at least would definately get some ground covevered rather than spend so much time trying possibly unsuccessfully to solve a problem. Anway.

I was thrilled to see my friend but it was 10.30 by the time we got off the bus so we went back to hers and shared a bottle of wine. Good start I feel..

Money spent: Bread 60 cents, cheese 1.50 euros, cappo 1.10, jewellery 4.9, hair clips 1.95, bus 6.30, 4 euros mcdonalds.

Saturday 17th - Vienna day 1

Well ladies problems kept me awake much of the night but nuff said. Had a lovely breakfast, anne laid on a proper spread and invited her other friend Diela round who also brought goodies. We headed out to find a flea market abut it was finishing by the time we got there so we headed into town, and in one of the main drags there was a full on pumping flea market which would normally fill me with joy but on a backpackers budget its not much good as i cant buy anything, - damn it! - so me and Ro went on ahead and checked out Stehensplatz which situated a rather grand church which we also looked inside. I was feeling quite crap but realised after heading into an information centre that this night is the only time I could get a standing ticket to the state national opera so I cooked a quick pasta meal at Anne's (one Ive been lugging around since Croatia!) and headed straight back out. Oh boy, I'm glad I did it was ABSOLUTELY amazing. I must watch more opera, the passion, the OTT, even the humour was just brilliant and yes it was 3 hours 15 long with two intervals in this time, but even in my suffering state I wouldnt have been anywhere else I shall never forget it. Forutnately there were sub titles which meant i actually understood everything that was going on and some it was extremely funny like when Tosca was saying to her lover to be careful when he is shot he should fall down feigning death but to be careful he doesn't get hurt because he is not an actor... every time I laughed a middle aged couple turned around and looked at me disaprovingly oh some of the snobbishness thats associated with the opera! And they weren't exactly in the expensive seats either! The way the performers sing though is just incredible - with so much power and gusto. If my sister had been there I know she would have got the giggles! And the middle aged couple would definately would not have approved of THAT!

I returned to the house where the girls were totally drunk and giggly and planning on heading out for a spanish night. I had used up all my energy reserves I had for the day and was still in pain so took some pills and collapsed into bed. As Ro had pretty much passed out due to all the red wine she joined me ha ha. (She now tells me she didnt pass out but CHOSE to sleep!!) Ha, yeah right!

Money spent: Gave anne 7.50 euros between us for breakfast and wine, 13.60 72 hour tube ticket, 3 euro opera ticket.

Sunday 18th Vienna day 2

I woke up and was out at a decent hour rather than waiting impatiently for my sis so went to a palace for 9.50 which took me through 22 of its state rooms. I got back to the apartment to find Ro and Anne still in bed! I waited an hour for Ro to be ready then we headed out and went to Leopold Art gallery which contains many expressionist paintings and which I thought was good but not to Ro's taste! In the evening we chilled out at the apartment drinking the supremely cheap wine then headed out to an Irish Pub with Anne. It was a nice evening and just a good chance to catch up properly.

Money spent: Palace 9.50, 6.50 Leopold Art gallery, 1.65 breakfast, coke at mcdonalds 1 euro, 1.10 drink in Irish pub.

Monday 19th Vienna day 3

We shopped around the pricey central area as what I thought was a palace (The Hoffman) turned out to be a boring museum! Met Anne after her class and looked round her Uni which was grand and a bit Harry Potter-ish. There was actually a graduation ceremony going on and we wandered into the hall where it had just taken place it was amazing. We wandered to the Freud Museum but for the price we werent sure if it was worth it as it was more 'this is where he sat', 'this was his room', etc not actually going into much of his psychoanalysis in much depth so we gave it a miss and headed into the centre. I went off and caught a tram around the old town - basically a lazy way of seeing more of the architecture and Rozie did more shopping surprise surprise honestly a students riches ha ha. We went to a free organ recital in an awesome church 'St Peters' which lasted only half an hour but in the absence of affordable evening concerts was our culture for the day! We went and found out about our bus to Bratislava and was pleased to find the effort paid off - at 6 euros is far cheaper than the train and still only takes an hour hurrah.

Went back to the apartment and did nice travelley things ie would not be found in India! - like having a bath and putting on some washing and making some food and updating my blog. oh its nice to stay with a friend in a more personal setting that a hostel! We watched the girly film '27 dresses' on her laptop before bed, always a nice homely thing to do...

Money spent: 1.07 breakfast, 55 cents coke, 2.5 pizza, 85 cents mars bar, shopping 1.30 pasta ready meal, bread, cheese. Gloves 7.90.

Lake Bled Weds 14th and Lake Bohinj Thurs 15th

Lake Bled

The lake was formed after the recession of the Bohinj glacier. It is up to 2120 m long and up to 1380 m wide, its maximum depth being 30.6 m and tectonic in origin. After the last Ice Age, the Bohinj glacier deepened the natural tectonic hollow and gave into its present form. The basin was filled with water when the ice melted. The lake has no large natural tributaries; it is fed only by a few springs.

The thermal springs in its north-eastern part are led into three swimming pools - Grand Hotel Toplice, Hotel Park and Hotel Golf. The picture-like image of Lake Bled is highlighted by the island in the western part of the lake.

I woke up 8ish and went on the internet before leaving about 9.15am. We got some shopping on the way to the bus station, with Canadian Graham, aussie Hayley and me and Ro. We got the 10am bus and spent most of the journey chatting as we also met a kiwi girl Emma and aussie guy Tim who were realy nice and also heading there for the day.

Once we arrived we found accomodation without much stress for 12 euros, and headed out to walk around the lake also with another guy we met called Rohan, another aussie who was in our dorm. Walking round the lake was really pleasant as it was sunny and very pretty and a good group to chat with along the way. We hired a boat and rowed out to the island in the middle of the lake which had a pastel coloured church on but which I didnt go in because they wanted a few euros and at the end of the day a church is a church! - and we were there and back within the hour which was a miracle but do-able once we had learnt the art of going in a straight line! It actually reminded me of Srinagar in India where I was rowing with Caley and we bickered the whole way like an old married couple! It definately teaches the art of team work!

In the evening we went to yet another free concert than I had seen a poster of, a choir of 111 men on tour from Norway. It really was incredible, I have never heard that many male voices in concert before and especially as they approached the stage and got into formation they were singing 'conquest of paradise' which was just awesome, especially as the song itself builds anticipation as it gets lounder and stronger. When I was chatting to one of the singers in the interval he said they had done the same before in darkness carrying torches which must be even more incredible.

As I adjust to travelling in Europe again instead of Asia I am struck at how much culture there is in Europe and how much I would miss it if I were permanently based elsewhere. It also reminds me of the complicated book I am reading about Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance and the authors explanations of quality being impossible to define. We all know what it is, just not how to explain it without being subjective.

It was a great day although very very very cold! Fortunately our room had a heater and for a change I didnt have to worry about being chilly.

Money spent: food 1.09 euros, bus to Bled 6.30, hire boat 3, coke and twix 1, cappo and wine 2.10, 12 euros accom.

Thurs 15th Lake Bohinj

The thermal springs in its north-eastern part are led into three swimming pools - Grand Hotel Toplice, Hotel Park and Hotel Golf. The picture-like image of Lake Bled is highlighted by the island in the western part of the lake.

This time we headed out with another kiwi guy who checked into our dorm - Leon - and a new aussie guy called Connor who was on the same bus as us to Lake Bohinj. In true carla fashion I had optimistically hoped to climb a snow covered mountain 'Triglav' which at 2864 metres is Slovenias highest point in the one day. Ha! It was covered in snow and after asking at tourist information realised it took 7 hours just to get their yet alone the return hike! - so I quickly moved on from that idea! Instead we walked around the north shore of the lake, stopping on numerous occasions to enjoy the view and take pics. It really was stunning, much more natural and less touristy than Bled - and bigger in fact. It was 12 kilometres in lenght. One funny moment was me pottering about on some stepping stones I lost my balance on an unstable one andwcompletely submerged my feet in the water and half of the lower part of my right leg. At least it was a sunny day but boy oh boy it wasnt very comfortable having icy cold feet as the air temperature was not conducive to clothes actually drying out!!

We walked around the lake and to a nearby waterfall and on the way home the fun started. We had walked a lot longer than we realised and were getting pretty knackered and achy feet. We wandered upon this beefer of a truck and in broken english and a lot of hand signals we basically managed to hitch a ride with him, with 3 of us squashed behind the front seats on what I imagined constituted his bed, and the other two guys sharing the passenger seat in the front. Cricked neck aside, it was a rather funny experience. But it didnt end there. He dropped us off in some weird place where we would have had to wait for an hour for the next bus so I proposed we split and hitch our way home. Ok, so hitching is not quite so easy as it seems. Me and Ro, thinking we' be at an advantage being girls - did manage to get one lift fairly soon with a couple of friendly van drivers who barely spoke english but reponded to our pleading faces. But unfortunately they wernt going very far and so we found ourselves in the less than ideal situation of trying to hitch another lift in the flailing light. Gutted and admitting defeat we finally caught the same bus that we would have originally waited and hour for, and even more gutting was the face that the lads managed to get a ride all the way back! So much for the advantage of being female!!!

In the evening we went out to eat at another Mexican - Ro is seriously obsessed! - and I shared a fab pizza with Connor the aussie guy and had a couple of glasses of red wine - well its just so damn cheap here even in a restaurant!

Its been a great couple of days here but Slovenia is definately worth a longer stay and I would love to explore the mountains more next time I'm here...but looking forward to Vienna and seeing and staying with my friend Anne from India...

Money spent: Cappo 1.10, bus 3.70, Park 2 euros, return bus 2.70, dinner 6 euros, tuna sarnie and mars bar 2,18 euros, accom 12 euros. TOTAL 29.68

Ljubijana and Postojna Caves, Slovenia 11th - 13th Oct

With a dazzling hilltop castle as her crown and the emerald-green Ljubljanica River at her feet, Ljubljana is a princess in size (petite). But her pint size conceals a wealth of culture, sights, activities and good old-fashioned fun that would be the envy of a city twice her extent. And best of all, everything is within such easy reach – a mere stroll or cycle away. he princess, whose name almost means ‘beloved’ (ljubljena) in Slovene, is also a working girl. As the country’s political, economic and cultural capital, this is where virtually everything of national importance begins, ends or is taking place. Of course that might not be immediately apparent in spring and summer, when café tables spill into the narrow streets of the Old Town and street musicians and actors entertain passers-by in Prešernov trg and on the little bridges spanning the Ljubljanica River. - Lonely planet.

Accomodation: Alibi hostel, 13 euros per night shared dorm (winter prices)

Day 1; Sun 11th Rijeka - Ljubijana

OK so we got up and had another lovely little breakfast at 8am still on the island of Rab in Croatia, then hopped straight on a ferry to be on the mainland at 9am and in Rijeka by 11. We had a couple of hours to kill for the train (hadnt had internet for several days so ws unable to actually find out the train times) but we walked the short distance to town and wandered around and took some pics. Its a nice place but Im keen to leave Croatia and get on with our travels.

So, we ended up having our little own compartment and once again I am struck at how easy and classy it is travelling in Europe as opposed to India! It hardly feels like travelling, its too clean ha ha.

The journey itself was very pleasant as we passed through several rolling hills, and my impression of the country so far is a positive one, and it actually is reminiscent of Austria, in the cleanliness and the mountains and the style of the houses. Ro wasnt so impressed, but I was trying to take photos the whole time!

We found our hostel fairly easily from the train station. But we were sooo hungrz we couldt resist a mcdonalds first, my last one being in Rajastan (India) with Anne. Again, so easy to get info, I walked into the information and there were nice little printed timetables to all the popular destinations with the prices. It was so hard to find these things in India!

Once at the hostel we soon turned around and wandered around the city. I have to say, and Ive been to a fair few european cities namely from when I travelled europe for 6 or 7 weeks when I was 20, this place is one of my favourites for its character and charm. The river really contributes to this atmosphere, and many of the bars and cafes which seem to be a large part of Slovenian culture line it either side, with buildings of impressive architecture, modern art, weeping willows creating reflections in the water, and speckled lights creating a different kind of atmosphere as the sun went down.

There were some buskers in the town square playing some instruments I can barely descibe yet alone remember the name of! They were shaped like a flying saucer and played like bongos but created a gentle melodic sound, kind of meditative. While hanging out in the main square I just enjoyed taking photos of the surroundings and appreciating the sunset that looked as though there was a fire raging beyond the buildings.

Our hostel isnt that great - one internet everyone lines up to use and a fairly impersonal feel with as yet some unfriendly people! But well see.

Money spent: 40 (ferry) 94 Kuna (train) 4 euros mcdonalds, 13 euros dorm.

Day 2. Monday 12th Oct - Ljubijana

Sob sob its peeing it down here! But had a good nights sleep hurray! Woke up lateish, showered and chilled and ended up heading out to brunch with a couple of friendly French guys we got chatting to at the hostel as well as a Canadian guy in our dorm. La Petite Cafe / very apt! was one of the eating places recommended by our hostel which was not situated along the river but nonetheless evidently popular. I had am omlette and bread which I was very suprisedto find actually filled me up but true to form I was not content with my own meal but had to finish the hobbits too! David kindly paid and we headed out for some girly shoppping as it was getting rather nippy and Rozie did not have a coat! David soon got bored and headed back. To be honest the weather made the day a bit of an odd one, the plan was to sight see and visit the castle but I just couldnt really be bothered to do a lot so after popping into a couple of churches I also headed back to the hostel and caught up with my blog while Ro sorted out washing and such like. Ouch she paid 10 euros hard core traveller stroke hand washer she aint ha ha. Before they left David showed me his illustrations on his laptop which I thought were pretty damn good and Im thinking it must be nice to be able to pursue your creative side while holding down a good job. We actually had an interesting conversation about how he is doing the job and money thing first and then will turn his time and attention to his art. Theres a part of me that wishes I had done the same thing because while I dont really mind living cheaply it would be nice not having to be careful with every single penny all the time just to be able to do things and even then on a tight budget. But I also like the bohemian lifestyle and am so blessed in so many ways and have much more than I actually need especially compared to many people in the world.

Before dinner me and Ro bought our train tickets to Vienna getting them half price due to three days in advance and I had an impulsive buy in a shop near the train station. I figured I may need another pair of trousers in this increasing cold especially as we go further north.

In the evening we went to a free concert Dobimo Se Na Magistratu I found out about at the town hall near the hostel. It featured Aljosa Vrscaj on guitar and a student quartet who are some of the few musicans I have met with any dress sense! They had colour coordinated black and red costumes blending the traditional with the contemporary and looked extremely sharp and classy. I really enjoyed the entire concert (Mozart and Bach) but was particularly blown away with the guitarist whose nimble fingers moved so fast I pondered how it was humanly possible. He actually played for a full 40 minutes without any sheet music. He did strike me as a slightly nervous fellow though and me and my sister nearly had a fit of the giggles as he began by sitting there for what seemed an age in anticipated silence, stroking the back of his neck and staring at the floor and then starting the whole process again just as we finally about to start when someone dared to interupt his mental preperation by sneaking in late!

Starving by the time it was finished, I caved into the little sisters culinary cravings and ate in a Mexican, for me spending more money on a meal than I have all year! To be fair, it was an awesome restaraunt and not many places would make a feature of bold colours. The whole atmosphere was wicked and Icould see why it was recommended to me.

Money spent: 2 euros breakfast, 13 accom, 69 coke and 60 mars bar, clothes 33.84 thez gave me 10% discount ha ha, 29 euros train to Vienna. 10.80 splash out on food at yummy Mexican!

Day 3: Tues 13th - Castle and Postojna caves.

Oh boy Ro slept talked again in the night! It was a full dorm and with people coming in late and a girl getting up real early I cant say I had the best nights sleep! But got up and was ready by 8.10 so went on the internet until I left for the castle which we hadnt gone to yesterday due to the rain.

Unbelievable I walked all the way up the hill to the castle to find it wasnt open at 9 like the otherwise helpful and friendly receptionist at my hostel told me! and so rather than waiting an hour in the freezing cold, I walked all the way back down the hill, had a cappo, wandered to the market and had a pastry, and then huffed and puffed back up the hill again! To be honest I ws too tired to take much in of the 20 minute multi media presentation thing, with high tech 3D goggles baby and earphones, but the view from the top of the tower was fab. I got chatting to a guy who took photos and wrote for aviation magasines. Anyway there wasnt much else to see which was a tad dissapointing so headed back to the hostel to meet Ro who had decided on a lie in instead of my cultural experience!

So...Postojna caves....which we got a train to for 4.88 euros and then a free shuttle (alas only the one way due to low season) were awesome, impressive, huge, magnificent..and expensive! Fortunately we got the student discounted price of 16 euros (normally 20 ouch!!!) Heres the spiel...

The Postojna Cave system is the largest known cave system in Slovenia. There are longer caves in the world, but a visit to a cave such as Postojna deserves full attention due to the diversity of shapes, expansive cave areas, stalactite and stalagmite formations and water characteristics. What is especially noteworthy is that most of these various shapes and formations can be seen by every visitor, meaning tourists and not just cavers with special caving equipment. Well kept paths for tourists comprise the greater part of Postojna Cave, making it a "horizontal" cave. Thus a visit to the cave does not present any difficulties for most visitors.

I have to say it was awesome....it was large and impressive, with endless stalagtites and stalagtites but heres my rant...I want to be alone with my imagination in these vast caves not herded along with a bunch of Japanese tourists and wailing kids and gossipy women, along cemeted non-slip floors with handrails forming a bulldozed pathway through otherwise natural ragged and authentic phenomenum. Im definately of the natural explorer mentality....!!! We held back a bit at the back of the group to appreciate it in a bit more peace! We also rode along on a train, and beware holding expensive cameras as I had a few near misses where I was close to having my head wacked against a rock or saying a permament bye bye to my fairly recent and decent sony!

Back in Ljubijana, we ate in the extremely pleasant and typical Slovenian restaraunt Sokol near the town hall. As I had already spent a copious amount of money today, aughh! - I shared a slovenian national dish with our new canadian friend Graham, and then the three of us got a desert together yum yum. The main course was a black bendy Kravavica sausage with turnips and very bitty with what I dont want to think what! The local speciality desert gibanica sokol with poppy seeds, walnut, cottage cheese, and apples was also something I would not normally eat but loved the walnuts baby! Rosanna is a very bad influence on me, I am spending much more money on food than normal but I have to say it beats bread and cheese ha ha. The interior reminded me a little of Munich me and Ro went on years ago. Our waiter was very sweet and wore the authentic dress which added to the music and decor made it a very worthwhile visit. Oh dear Im enjoying eating out a little too much...!

Money spent, 1.20 cappo, 1.05 pastry from market, 3.50 castle tower, 13 euros accom, 3.80 sandwich, 1.40 cappo, 16 euros student admission to caves (yes!) meal 4.25 euros plus 1.05 wine plus 1.30 shared desert.

Rab island - Fri 9th and Sat 10th.

Rab Island: Rab is one of the island of the Kvarner Bay archipelago in the north of the Croatian Adriatic Sea. In addition to the ancient town of the same name, there are seven other idyllic places scattered over the island: Barbat, Banjol, Palit, Kampor, Mundanije, Supetarska Draga and Lopar. There are about 9 thousands inhabitants on Island Rab mostly by agriculture, fishing, shipbuilding and tourism. Rab has tradition of organised tourism for more than 112 years. - from find croatia.com

Accomodation: Captains club. Payed 90 kunas each accom including breakfast (subsidised in part by Paul as we were additional people and got it cheaper.)

Left at 8am from our accomodation near the lakes, it took two hours to the ferry crossing and we got straight on which then only took 15 minutes. The scenery again was incredible, and the thing that strikes me about Croatia is how beautiful and diverse the landscape is in only a short distance or space of time. We drove through mountains and lush foliage to a lovely coastal drive with some of the most amazing views I have ever seen. Paul said it was like New Zealand.

Once on Rab, we sat and ate a picnic breakfast stroke lunch again to a fab view. We checked into Pauls accomodation which was in Banjol overlooking a harbour near Rab town, for a good price because we were in effect additional people. We had a quick turn around as it was sunny and went in search of a beach. At first we just stopped by a strip of pebbles, it was quite isolated and we had a bathe and chucked a ball around. Then we went on to Lovran beach which in rough guide is one of the 6 best beaches in Croatia. Hurray! Sand at last! It was lovely, with different kinds of mountains either side and forming a backdrop to a large beach area. There were not many people there and Paul waded out almost as far as a little island because it slopes very gradually and gently.

In the evening we went to Rab town. Being out of season it was a bit ghost-like and took forever to find somewhere to eat! - but had a yummy mushroom pizza which the next day gave me a bad tummy ha ha.

Money spent: 90 accom, 59 ferry (me n Ro paid for Paul too.) pizza and red wine 48 kuna?

Sat 10th

What a gorgeous breakfast on the veranda overlooking the harbour and enough coffee to more than get me through the day! I was up aout 8.40 and after a leisurelz breakfast we wandered into Rab town which reminded me a little bit of Rovinj. There wasnt a great deal to comment on apart from the monastary where me and my sis bought matching bracelets kinda stroke rosaries from a nun!

The weather wasnt great but we headed to the fab beach we were at yesterdaz, unfortunately it decided to blow a thunderstorm and so we ran to the car and drove back to our hotel..spent some time kipping in bed as was feeling rough from the mushroom pizza or the wine the night before?!!

Went for a little stroll along the harbour before having an absolutely gorgeous croatian dish, the name of which I have yet to identify but it was huge and very yummy! We also - and wait for it I dont do this verz often - watched football! Yes! Carla Thraves watched a football match and it was actually OK - England versus Ukraine but we lost...is that an omen?! The grand total of 3 locals were rooting for England so it was all a good atmosphere of sorts...!

More red wine and English movie (bridget Jones 2 yes!!) back at the hotel.

Money spent:90 Kuna accomodation, 15 Kuna shared wine, 12 Kuna bracelet, 40 Kuna dinner yum yum.

Weds 7th, Thurs 8th National Parks - Plitvice lakes and Paklenica gorge

Staying for 2 nights near the Plivice lakes, we explored two very different national parks...

Accomodation: Some random place in Korenica, only a short drive from the lakes. We pazed 25 euros per room per night (Paul payed 20 for a single.)

The Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia's most popular tourist attraction, was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1979. Located roughly halfway between capital city Zagreb and Zadar on the coast, the lakes are definitely a must-see.

The beauty of the National Park lies in its sixteen lakes, inter-connected by a series of waterfalls, and set in deep woodland populated by deer, bears, wolves, boars and rare bird species. The National Park covers a total area of 300 square kilometres, whilst the lakes join together over a distance of eight kilometres. There's also quite an altitude difference - the highest point is at 1,280m, the lowest at 380m - although the total height difference between the lakes themselves is only 135m. (Veliki Slap, the largest waterfall, is 70m tall.) - Visit Croatia.

We left Opatija at 8.35 and with a couple of stops for shopping and lunch with a gorgeous panoramic view, we arrived at Pauls pre-booked accomodation that we could also stay at for 25 euros between the two of us (shared bathroom.)The guest house was like a log cabin effect, with a sort of common room we could use with a TV and fridge but not a kitchen as such so we had to hijack the family kitchen downstairs to make our pizzas the first night and pasta the second. This make us feel a little uncomfortable, like we were intruding, but ultimately on hostel bookers it did cite kitchen under facilities. It also said there was internet but there wasnt boo hoo.

We drove straight to the lakes, parking at the secondary entrance and arriving before 2pm. By walking and taking a couple of buses and one boat, we literally blitzed in 3 hours what would otherwise have taken all day. It cost 15 quid to get in so we didnt want to have to retturn unnecessarily.

I have to say, and I have been to many amazing places in my life not to mention 6 months of travelling in Asia this year already, but this was one of the most stunning places I have ever been. The colours of the foliage and rock were vivid, the water crystal clear, and the mood like something out of a fairy tale. It was a beautiful sunny day, which also makes a lot of difference, and was just awesome. I found the lower lakes to be more scenic than the higher ones. We left feeling reallz pleased we had decided to join Paul here as something magnificent Croatia had to offer that we would have otherwise missed.

In the evening we made lasagna and drank red wine watching some bad English movie! Chatting with Paul, we decided to go to Rab island with him for 2 days and then break from him before he went to krk island, so we could move on on our travels. I suggested the Paklenica national park as a daz trip as we had covered the lakes in one daz.

Money spent: 18 Kuna parking, 8 kuna cappuccino, 110 kuna entrance. Shopping 35.50 kuna shared food. More shopping and deodrant 60.40 kuna. Bread and notepad 9.26 kuna. Accom 12.5 euros.

Thursday 8th - Paklenica national park

Paklenica National Park is one of Croatia's most diverse national parks especially if you're interested in hiking or rock climbing. Located in the southeastern part of the Velebit mountain range which runs along the central Dalmatian coast, Paklenica National Park covers 102 sq. km and includes one of the largest forests in the Mediterranean. The two outstanding canyons of Paklenica Park, Velika Paklenica and Mala Paklenica, show splendid karstic formations.
Paklenica park offers the unique pleasure of combining hiking and swimming the same day. Starigrad is the main jumping off point for exploring the park and it happens to lie right on the Adriatic. - from Croatia traveller.

We left at 9.25 for the 1 and a quarter hour drive to Paklenica national park on the central Croatian coastline.

First we went on a little walk along the periphery of the park thinking we could sneak in without paying ha ha. But we did end up parting with the dosh, after all we had come all this waz to see the park and there was always the danger we would get shot ha ha so we drove in and up and did a short walk to a rather specatular gorge which was rock climbers heaven. Having done a spot of rock climbing myself, I would have liked to have been there with all the kit, but it wasnt to be and I satisfied myself with watching other people instead! It was one of those places I could have happily spent the whole day, as there were several proper treks to while away the hours, but it wasnt to be as I was somewhat outnumbered bz Rozie and Paul who only wanted to go and lie on yet another beach! - so satisfied myself with a short 1 hour speed walk before reluctantly rushing back to meet the others who I left admiring the view of the gorge.

We then drove to a beach 2.15ish and chilled in the sunshine. Unfortunately I hadnt come prepared so had to swim in my combats and black bra and then cover myself in a sarong! We had a nice beer while relaxing over a book in the harbour. and then drove back through fairly stunning scenery to arrive bck at the hostel late. We drove back a different way which added on about 45 minutes, which was a bit much for Paul by the end as it was pitch black. But while it was still light it was awesome, we saw a gorgeous sunset and the views followed us as we navigated up the mountains before heading inland and back to Plitvice.

We got back late, I grabbed a quick shower and we made pasta in the downstairs kitchen before watching more dodgz english movies!

Money spent: 7.5 Kuna toll, 60 entrance (me and Ro paid for Paul) beer 12 kuna. Accom 12.5 euros

Opatija, Istria, Croatia Mon 5th - Tues 6th October

Monday 5th October - leaving Pula, arriving Opatija.

Accomodation: Pavlovic Vanda, Via Joye 5. 45 euros a night between 3 people.

Just 13km west of Rijeka, Opatija (Abbazia in Italian) has the most stunning coastal views in Croatia. The forested hills sloping down to the sparkling sea can be appreciated from the Lungomare, a waterfront promenade that stretches for 12km along the Gulf of Kvarner. The vista is enhanced by Vojak (1401m), west of Opatija and the highest point on the Istrian Peninsula. Small surprise that Opatija was the fashionable seaside resort of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until WWI. The grand residences of the wealthy are now hotels that offer a healthy dose of the elegance and sophistication of a bygone age. This is a good place to splurge on a hotel as you have virtually no chance of landing in one of the concrete boxes that litter so many coastal resorts. The façades are painted in fresh pastels and the interiors offer spacious halls and chandeliers. - from Lonely Planet.

Ok so woke up in Pula feeling bad bad bad hungover hungover hungover and not happy at the prospect of a car journey to our next destination..Opatija, the riviera near Rijeka. It is closer to Slovenia, so makes sense to stick with Paul for a while and see what happens.

We didnt end up leaving til midday due to slowness from hangovers! - so by the time we got to Opatija, we then had to hunt for accomodation as the place Paul was staying in was flashpacker and not backpacker style!! We ended up finding an appartment for 45 euros, verz central and sufficiant for our humble needs. The idea was to share with Andy the first night and the idea being Paul would join us the second night once he had cancelled his second night in his hotel. However once he saw the put me up bed in the kitchen he wasnt quite so keen ha ha.

Ro had a kip and me and Paul went for a swim dodging the urchins (small mean black creatures that are all over the floor making swimmers lives very difficult!)I have to say it was bloody cold and needed a coffee with Andy to warm up afterwards!

We had a lovely evening - after dinner we stumbled across a hotel that had a live band playing oldies but goodies - and a load of Austrians doing couple dancing. Welll, I have to tell you we livened the dance floor up no end and ended up having a wicked time dancing and not drinking a spot of alcohol because I still felt rough from all the grappa! It was Andys last night so a fitting end to his holiday in Croatia.

Money spent: 27.54 Kuna on coke, hairbands, peach and 50 kuna on a sandwich. 10 Kuna coffee.

Tuesdaz 6th October

Unfortunately the weather wasnt so great today so my chilled on the beach day doing absolutely nothing wasnt quite as relaxing as I intended. Paul wandered up to this fishing village while me and Ro lay on the promenade. It was almost a bit boring, as Opatija is really a place to enjoy in the sunshine so we ended up sneaking into Pauls hotel and swimming in the pool with a bunch of old wrinklies in their 60s in swim caps looking at Pauls tattoos rather disaprovingly. No jumping or anything was allowed so we ended up not staying too long! And damn it the sauna was like over a fiver. But I have to say I will never forget the image of Paul in a shower cap!!! Wish Id taken a photo!! Saying that, as the wearing of swim caps were compulsarz and had a disturbing waz of adding on about 50 years to the general impression of a person, I also had rather vivid images of myself and Rozie as old bats... not a pleasant thought!!!

After making some more pasta back in the appartment we wandered up to the cute fishing village of Volosko (where Paul had been earlier in the daz) where we sat and had a couple glasses of red wine in the harbour. Walking back along the harbour was one of the most delightful walks I have experienced, very quaint and almost magical even though my feet hurt and I was knackered and hung over still!!

Money spent: soup, bread, mars bar, 10.37 kuna.

Lovan beach, Croatia, 4th October

Lovan, Istria.

Its hard to remember a whole 10 hours ago...! I'm back at the hostel with Andy, Rozie and Gordana, our hostel host and an Irish guy 'James' who is a quite a talented musician - apparantly he was on Croatian TV a few days ago. Gordana thanked us for bringing him here, as James actually approached me and Rozie at the coach station a few days ago when we on a day trip to Rovinj. He's a quiet sort of chap - for example when the rest of us were chatting in the lounge on an evening, he would be reading in his bed. But I wish I'd spoken to him before now. He's got a lovely Irish voice and sits playing his Celtic style Mandola with his eyes closed. It was one of those random evenings, unplanned and all the better for it. True travel randomness.

Earlier today we drove to a National park and beach via Pazin, the site of a castle and quite impressive gorge. At the national park Rozie was in a bit of strop as she wanted to get to the beach so I suggested me and Andy walk down the beach at Lovan and meet her and Paul there. The short trek took just shy of 2 hours and then the fun ensued. We took the best part of an hour walking along the promenade searching for them on 'Lovan beach.' I had left my bag with Rozie, and accidently left my mobile with them (ironically after making sure I had both numbers 'just in case!) and Andy didn't have either of their numbers either, so in the absence of finding them we settled down on what we were convinced was 'Lovan' beach. Unfortunately, I didnt have any of my sunbathing stuff either so had to strip to my matching red bra and g-string lacy knickers, making Andy swear not to peek! - and found a secluded spot to try and sunbathe and make the most of the remainder of the day. Time went by, and we tried texting Gordana who replied with Paul's number, who we texted and tried ringing about a million times to no avail. The sun eventually went down, stories were going through our minds form them having a massive falling out to crashing along the highway! - until Rozie eventually found my mobile in mg bag that they had rang once back in the car and realised it was mine, until she rang and after even more faffing about and missing one another we finally were all in the car together playing the blame game and drove back to Pula with the sun setting to the east along the coastline.

Back in the hostel we had a quick turnaround where I made my cheapo pasta and grabbed a very quick shower before heading out for some pizza or in my case a couple of much needed beers ha ha. Its been good hanging out with Paul and Andy even though they are completely hyper! - and we are all gonna head off together to Opajita tomorrow even though right now Ive no idea where we're gonna stay! Andy and I were up for a night on the town but its a Sunday here and not much going on. Glad now though .) Must go, wanna join in the singing...

LATER...

OK so we did a lot of singing, and drinking grappa which ws a huge mistake and we headed out to the amphitheatre with the musician who wanted to play for Dionysus...! It was very ambiotic, and not an average evening. It was a rather funny as we (namelz Rozie and myself) danced in the dark space re-enacting mzthical tales of old, and played along on his tin whistles and recorders. I stayed out really late with Andz and made a bit of a fool of myself after drinking far too much grappa and got to bed at a ridiculous time! Sob sob several dazs later I realised I had left mz rather nice, warm and chunky sweater. Gutted but that is the cost of an evening of vice...

End of India

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Delhi

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Agra

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Pokhara and trekking

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Varanasi

Rishikesh

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Amritsar

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Srinigar

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India to do

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The looong ride to Leh

Weds 17th and Thurs 18th - Travelling to Leh

Leh.

Accomodation:

Well at 1.45am after a sort of (very cold!) snooze in Cederics and Audreys room, we piled into a minibus for a supposed 16 hour journey to Leh in the very north of India. It didnt quite work out that way...! After only a couple of hours we got stuck in a massive pile up going up the mountain in the snow mear the Rhotang Pass, where we had motorbiked to previously.This is India, who knows what the exact reason was but probably a lorry or large vehicle getting stuck in the slush and obstructing the way for everyone else. The roads really are notorious here, there is no provision for heavy traffic and in many places there is only a single track. Its slow going at the best of times (although the drivers still manage a fair speed and overtake on the sharp bends the nutcases!) and no vehicles have anything as sophisticated as snow chains! I would ordinarily say it was incredibly frustrating except I didnt really mind it. I was cozy and warm with all my warm clothes on, my new wool hat & scarf, leggins and gloves, audreys fleece and waterproof and Shys sleeping bag!!! Bless them all, it really would be a completely different situation without all this attire! Its funny how things always work out. The time passed by snoozing and listening to Shys ipod and playing suduko with Shy (we have inherited the addition from Anne!) and I got out for a while and borrowing Shys hardy boots to wade through the snow to find a semi-dignified place to go to the toilet, I cleared a place on a rock and just sat and appreciated the scenery. There is something about snow covered mountains that is so good for the soul and it has very happy memories for me of going skiing as a teenager with Megan, Paul and Nicky family friends in the French alps. I also havnt been able to afford to go skiing / boarding for 4 years now so its a real treat to be in such an enviromnent. Despite such a long day (2am - 7pm) I did not pick up a book once. I think countries like India are good for people like me who thrive on efficiancy and time keeping. It makes you chill out a bit and just 'be.' Sometimes also, it is good to not always be distracting yourself all the time. Silence can be a wonderful thing.

I also got chatting to a writer and filmaker from Vancouver who basically travels his way round the world, writing and takin stock footage (generic filmed images that may be used in films). For example, there are sights here like the army trekking in a long snake like procession up the hill, and people riding on yaks and horses and also the image of people twos up on motorbikes battling along the roads in the snow. Just sights you may not ordinarily see. If you open your eyes there are many amazing things to observe, and for me that is the magic of travelling. Its unpredictable and your always adding new and sometimes random memories and impressions to your experiences.It is so very bright up here, you need sunglasses, another reminicent on skiing.

Well, at the very time we should have arrived in Leh (6pm) we were still 372 kilometers away and trust me that is a long way on snowy mountain roads! So we stopped in some random village where Shy and I crossed the bridge to find a garage with 5 beds in which was perfect for the 3 of us and an Israeli couple we had met. We paid 50 ruppees each before realising there was no toilet and the garage door did not fully shut, but hey we wernt complaining we were just happy to find somewhere as a couple of other places we had asked in were full - bascially everyone on that road was in the same position, held up for hours on their way to Leh. I had felt slightly sick all day (it didnt help that we were travelling or should I say in the minibus without stopping for food until 4pm and I hadnt eaten dinner the day before either so had been surviving on Shys biscuits and crisps!) so didnt indulge in a beer, but we had a nice evening playing cards and reminding myself of the rules of blackjack. We bet with matchsticks as games like that are only fun if you bet. It reminded me of 'Pontoon' probably the identical game that I have very happy memories of playing with my Grandad and Grandma as a child. My Grandad was fun, he always had something interesting for us to do, be it playing with walkie talkies or making sculptures, or playing computer games or card tricks. I want to learn some more card games and card tricks its a kind of universally useful social skill! And I really enjoy playing cards and board games.

I was rather cold in the night, even with all my conveivable layers on but I couldnt wear my jeans as they were wet at the bottom, and I had to take off my second paid of socks as I had trod in a puddle when I nipped outtside to go to the loo, and my only pair of tights were drastically falling apart after I had singed them on an Indian oven after getting drenched motorbiking in an attempt to swiftly dry them out. I think travelling its always worth coming with one set of really good thermals as you never know where you may end up - I mean look at me, I wasnt even supposed to be in India yet alone the northern snowy himilayas! And I havnt managed to find any tights to buy so am extremely grateful to my Mum for making me wear them when I left England on the 4th February in sismilar conditions! Oh if I only I had her wooly coat right now but theres no way I would have carried it round for 4 1/2 months for the sake of a couple of weeks here. Ill get by somehow!

I am so happy travelling I dont really want it to end but I am also looking forward to going home and seeing my family and friends and moving to London and getting back into my acting. I showed Neil my showreel before I left and watching it gave me this longing to be acting again, which is a good sign.

Today it is bright and sunny but very cold. As I write we are again stuck in the snow. We woke up at 5.40 this morning - ouch! - and left by 6.30. At about 4 stops now I have exchanged words with a Canadian guy who as I get to know him more I realise what a character he is. He reminds me very much of 'Mr President' the flamboyant guy from our Halong Bay trip. Originally from Canada, he now lives and works in the import / export buisness in Taiwan, but worked as a teacher and stripper for 2 years prior to this! He is a big guy, very good looking, and the image of him strutting around and waving his bits on a stage in China is absolutely hilarious. I look foward to hanging out with him over the next couple of days. He is also going to Nepal and may be there the same time as me and Anne. I shall refer to him as 'C' to hide his real identity ha ha.

I have begun to think about my birthday. It is really nice knowing I will be with Anne, who feels a bit like a sister to me. We have a kind of comfortable relationship where we can annoy each other but ultimately get on really well and have a kind of bond. I want to be somewhere where I can do something like parachuting, spa, a nice hotel (splash out!) and other westerners to have some sort of celebration in the evening. But I dont want to overplan it otherwise my expectations will be too high. Things right now are working out perfectly just falling nicely into place and I trust this will be no exception.

Manali (Varshisht) 7th - 16th June

Sun 7th June - Vershist, Malani

Manali (pop 4400, elevation 2050m) According to legend, Manu, the Hindi equivalent of Noah, alighted his boat here to re-create human life after floods destroyed the world. Modern Manali is crammed with concrete hotels and based around one street, the mall, a continuation of the highway that runs into town. Two roads run north of Manali along the Beas river - one to Old Manali a hippie travellers hub on the West Bank and one to Vershsit a nearby village where we stayed, and the Rhoang La on the East bank. (Lonely planet)

Vashisht, a nearby and more locally visted village where we stayed was a more peaceful location and had a lot more character, in fact one of my favourite places in India so far. It was a 50 ruppee rickshaw ride from Manali or a nice 30 min walk.

Significant people: A great crowd of 6 hung out together (Anne who I had been travelling with since Udaipur, Israeli Shy, English Neil, and French couple Audrey and Cederic) enjoying the natural hot springs, canyoning, rock climbing, white water rafting, and a 2 day motorbike trip to the Rhotang Pass. not to mention late night oscar-winning movies and chilling in our favourute haunt Rainbow cafe. We ended up staying 9 nights before leaving for Leh but sadly without Neil who had to catch a flight home. I extended mine. Again ;) The only downer was the rain, but was normally predictable early pm for an hour or two and then clearing up again.

Accomodation: 200 ruppees for room with balcony on top floor (lower was 150) Also had great food (try the continental breakfast for 100 ruppees!) and free cold water from the springs. No hot shower, but could collect water from the hot springs for a bucket bath. Problem with flies but in the heart of the action, and no steep steps to climb!

Activities: Himilayan extreme centre. Ran by Fred from France who gave us 20% discount because two of our guys were French but also we made grop bookings and were regular customers!

Internet: Below raindbow cafe, 40 ruppees and hour. No wireless anywhere but did notice one place in Old Manali, more expensive food though.

Well after a predictably bumpy and uncomfortable journey with no sleep! - we arrived at 4.30am, an hour an a half early - unheard of in India! - because the bloody nutty driver wanted to get the journey over and done with which conributed to the significant bumps and lurches that it would not be an exxageration to say resembled an alton towers ride...

We were ripped off by a rickshaw paying 90 ruppes for an otherwise 40 or 50 ruppee journey but at that time in morning, tired and cold and hungry you havnt got much bartering power! Fortunately one of the guest houses opened their kitchen and we ordered a very early breakfast. The roomw were not great for the price, so we spent a significant amount of time trying to find somewhere for 4 people - Neil Shy Anee and I were getting on well and thought it would be nice to stay near each other. Many places were ver reasonable cost (200 ruppees) but were full. Eventually we settled on two different places as nowhere had 3 rooms free especially so early and before check out time. While Anne and I were waiting for our room to be cleaned, I made a visit to the ladies hot springs, less than 10 metres away through the entrance to the temple and enclosed by a high brick wall away from the prying eyes of India men! I absolutely loved the experience. It was quite busy, with ladies in various states of undress either in the plunge pool or squatting or sitting in the running taps. It felt so good to be clean! Anne and I got a couple of hours kip before meeting everone for lunch at Rainbow cafe where we had been warned had great food but miserable service! I ate a Nepali thai (60 ruppee) and leon drink (30 ruppee) and experieced my first 'hello to the queen' with Neil which basically is biscuit and ice cream and sauce and banana TWAS DELICIOUS!

We took a wander to Manali and then Old Manali. Despite the tranquil setting and the beautiful river and mountains, the drivers are really manic and it is extremely stressful hearing beeping almost incessantly and some cars or trucks drive along the road keeping their hands holding their horn in complete faith anything in the way, including us, will soon get out of the way! One drove by so close it clipped Annes hand and would have made contact with me if her scream hadnt alerted my attention to it. The thing is, the beeping is really unnecessary thats whats s annoying. Its just the cultre you beep at anything you see! Im not normally a violent person but really it made me want to punch something!

We ended up in a lovely chilled cafe by the river and a large weeping willow where we had some beers and played arsehole, shithead and uno, and learnt backgammon. It was a good crowd and Im looking forward to hanging out with them more. We walked back into Manali before overcrowding into a taxi to Vershist! I collected water from the hot springs (felt very authentic!) and had a nice buucket bath which really made me feel warm which was amazing as I had been feeling cold all evening.

Vershist is a lovely place, I absolutely love the hot springs, the cows, the ruralness, the chilled vibe and of course the crowd I am hanging out with. Im excited about the sports we have planned just worried about being cold here...Im not at all equipped with the clothes I have. Leh will be even worse!!!

Thought for the day: If you are rich, you have so very much time to feed your neurosis and worry about whether or not you are happy. The poor have many more real problems but they do not have the luxury of being neurotic. They are too busy working for what they will eat today. p 45 City of Joy

Monday 8th June - Waterfalls

I dragged myself out of bed 10ish after several hours of sleep. I went to bed earlier than everyone else yesterday and dropped off while listening to mu music. I was woken by some commotion going on with some french guy that lasted about an hour, he was getting aggressive and swearing - well some things you can just tell even if they are in a foreign language!! There are a couple of didgy characters in a room at the end of our balcony who I am slightly wary of, and hence I am keeping my laptop out of view. I think also there is a big drugs culture here I ve heard about the happy shakes and such like but everywhere you go people are offering you drugs. It seems that being a westerner and drug user go hand in hand although it is not uncommon to see the Indian guys rolling their own spliffs.

I had put so many clothes on I was warm enough, thank goodness and until 7 am when Hindi music started blarring, I had quite a good night. I ordered a nice english breakfast with apple juice and coffee (100 ruppee) and then Anna and I headed down to the hot springs. It was muahc emptier than when I had gone yesterday at a slightly earlier time. It was an abssolute joy getting clean and washing hair, squatting at one of the four running taps. There were two little Indian kids there and we had fun splashing each other and helping wash each other. There's a real feeling of community in this hot spring, women coming together away from the mens gazes (it was surrounded by high brick walls) to bathe under the hot sun. Being a person who loves saunas and steam rooms and such health spa settings, it has been one of my favourite events in India so far, and being mostly visited by locals, a truly authentic experience. The only thing I was suprised at in an otherwise modest country, is how the women bathe topless and often only in their pants. One olf lady was naked, and as she bent over after ascending the steps, a small shild looked up at a suprising view, and we exchanged a look and a giggle, some things transcend the language barrier...!

I am having such a good time and am really happy with the crowd I am hanging out with they are all lovely genuine people and we are going rafting tomorrow! The fench guy met a guy in a shop from the same ski resort as him in France (Val D'Isere) and he's given us a dicount of 600 to 350 if there is a group of 6. Bring it on!!!!

The only problem is I still feel really tired but I have this theroy that exercise will sort it out.

Well I was feeling very lethargic, but once we had embarked on our walk, armed wiith a borrowed fleece! - I had a fantastic time. Anne decided to stay behing so the 5 of us trekked to a waterfall, but all the way were gorgeous views and I excercised my gluteous maximus, and we amused ourselves by learning words of each others languages - although thank good ness Anne wasnt there as I would have got too confused with German thrown into the mix! I think I was the main source of entertainment especially to Shy, the Israeli guy as every time I opened my mouth I attempted to communicate in French, as the French couple were very generous and willing to aid my learning process! I feel I need to stretch my mind as travelling is more about experietial learning not sort of intelectual learning, and I love languages, and the idea of being able to speak something other than English. I just wish I had paid more attention at school as I did French for 5 years for goodness sakes! I never saw the need, and regret it now but its actually amazing how many words I have pulled out of the deepest darkest recesses of my memory... it was quite fun. I even learned 1-10 in Aramaic as Shy is Israeli. Shy was a legend as once we had found the source of the waterfall and Neil had attempted to swim but then wimped out! - he had a camping stove and we took shelter under a huge rock slab and had a couple of cups of Chai. It was a fantastic afternoon and we were discussing going on a 2 or 3 day trek just off our own backs, finding villages to sleep in along the way. What a great crowd. Off to watch The English Patient now....

Wow that was a good film and no hapy ending either which I'm not sure how I feel about! I left after it finished at 10pm to have my hot springs bucket bath and some 'me' time where I get to reflect on the day and play my worship songs and have a pray with no distractions. I love being with a crowd but I do need these moments of breaks. I am having a wicked time but in this milder climate that Im not equipped for I am still feeling run down with a slight cold or something, and got a sore throat which I have ot make sure doesnt develop as were planning doing a few more active things! And thats where I come into my own! I think tomorrow I will go online and ring my family and download more photos. I am so grateful for this laptop. Life is just so good at the moment. I never want this to end. I think of England and it will all be waiting for me when I decide to return. There are things in the summer I would like ot be back for, including my birthday and famil get together and rempstone and st georges house but for goodness sake im doing somerhing people either dfont have the chance or priority to do and I shoul dmake the most of it. There are so many places I want to travel to. It makes me si happy to experience alternative realities and I have decided if that means I go without the other things that people aspire to in England then so be it. I am meeting people who make a lifetimes habit of travelling. They work for several months of the year and then travel, What a life. Why shouldnt I do the same? The only thing is I need to earn more money in those months to be able to do that. Im gonna write a list of my short to medium term goals. And theyrre gonna apply whether I stay in India or go home but for some reason India gives me more focus away from distractions.

'Surely goodness and mercy will follow me all the days of my life. and I will dwell in the house of the Lord forever.' - Psalm 23.

Best thing: Hot springs, walk to waterfall, film.
Worst thing: Sore throat.

9th June - White water rafting day!

Well, Anna's alarm went off at 7am but the Hindi music was already in full swing!! We had a nice coffe in Cederic and Andreas hotel before unsuccesfully traipsing around Malani for motorbikes - either they couldnt be bothered or wernt open yet so we ended up catching the bus to Kullu (30 ruppees, 1 1/2 hours) and then another to Brahamin? 5 ruppess, 25 minutes. After the smallest burger in the world for 20 ruppees we excitedly squeezed into our westsuits with the exception of the guys who thought they would be macho! The water was absolutely freezinf but it was such fun and even so when one got the opportunitty to scream when we got drenched with the spray in the rapids! The guy sort of guided teh whole expedition, and 4 of us also paddled to his instruction. I thought it would be a little more led by the group, but Anne and I are planning on doing more in Richikech anyway which is supposed to be better. We rafted for about 1 1/2 hours down 14 Kilometres. We were all sad when it was over, but relieved we hadn't capsized as the water must have been close to freezing. The guys actually tried to swim in a quiet spot but stayed in all of 2 seconds before bashfully returning to the raft! Coming home, we broke for lunch in Kullu where I had a gorgeous Thali for 50 ruppees even though it was a rather dirty restatnat! We nearly got away with riding on the roof of the bus on the way home but were summoned down for 3 kilometres while the 'police' may be watching. But as we were then packed like sardines in the interior of the bus, there wasnt much chance to return to our superior seats once the obligatory distance had elapsed. So happy to be with a really good group who arnt pot heads either.

10th June - Rock climbing day!

I am so glad I stayed in last night I really just enjoyed being cozy in my bed and I listened to sermon I had on my computer which was good. I had a gorgeous breakfast at my guest house for 100 ruppees before meeting the others at Himilan Extreme sports for rock climbing. What an awesome day! My arms gave out on me true to form, but I made it up the 5 paths, not bad for 550 ruppees. The sun was shining, the whole group was there, we views of the mountians, the instructor was good fun (although I dont think health and safety would approve of the amount of spliffs he smoked!!) and generally I felt good after the first proper nights sleep in a loong looong time. Actaully my hands and arms being so weak had a positive effect, as it forced me to rely more and trust my legs and feet. Its amazing on what tiny bits of rock you can grip and give all your weight to. After rock climbing we had a beer and a spicy biriyani lunch (95 ruppee) at the french couples hotel, and I even watched an episode of Ugly Betty! Its funny weather here, its gorgeous in the mornings but then always rains in the afternoon for an hour or so and then clears up again. I think I am adjusting more to the cold as last night I wore less clothes to bed and my sore throat wasnt as bad. I bravely went on a 'run' with Shy - well just a little over 15 minutes but along the river and at a fair pace and half of it was uphill so not bad considering how long its been since ive worked out! We ended up on the side of the river and many locals witnessed our stretching and yoga and strange things I was teaching Shy from drama school and 4 men approached us to have photos taken but we didnt really appreciate it in our sweaty state and so shooed them away when they didnt easily take no for an answer. It was a strange feeling going got a run here though as its not a common sight and my clothes - leggins and a vest top - probably seem pornographic to them!

Well that made me feel a lot better doing my second lot of excercise of the day and I felt I deserved my washing in the hot springs, which his still one of my favourite experiences in India. I went back to the room to chill before heading out to dinner with everyone bar anne who had thrown up on her shopping mission in Manali and was still feeling unwell. Neil and I shared a BBQ trout in ? which was rather nice and I had a banana lassi, the first for a while. Total 100 ruppee plus chilling in 10 ruppess for garlic naan!

I was going to go to the internet earlier but ended up chilling and then chatting to anne instead. Its amazing how similar we are its so cool were travelling together. Im really happy at the moment and thank god for this.

Best thing: Rock climbing.
Worst thing: Throwing up in the night!

Thursday 11th June

Well if only my feel good feeling from yesterday had lasted...instead I was awake most of the night feeling sick and then when I did eventually have to make a run for it it was quite violent. Most of the night I was also tortured by 4 annoying flies and impressive wafts from Annes side of the bed providing evidence her tummy was also still bad! But I supposed I cant complain its only the second time in 4 months. The next morning we walked in our pj's down the hill to meet the gang and they were aggreeable to go canyoning tomorrow instead which the shop were also cool about as there was no way we were up to it and also Neil was in bed having had a bad tummy yesterday. Whats going on?! Is it food, is it a bug, is it the hot springs? Anne and I basically went back to bed for the rest of the morning and I felt so crap I didnt even want to read or catch up on my blog or even listen to music. Seems like such a waste of a day. I eventually dragged myself to the internet cafe where the electricity cut out after half an hour so still no Pushkar photos. Is very frustrating how hard it is to upload photos but its important to me as its a back up if my comp gets broken or ncked and its also a way for my family and friends to keep up with what Im doing. I got an email from Stew which I was pleased about after repeated efforts to get hold of him. Every time I check my facebook and see messages from my family asking when Im back it makes me homesick and I don't know what to do again. I'm having such a good time but it can't last forever. I just hope in the next few days it will be clear what the best thing to do is. I could still get my flight on the 21st June but thats only 10 days away and I really want to see Agra and Varanasi and spend some time in Delhi and see Calcutta and now the ideas in my head I really want to do a yoga course in Richikesh. I dont want to overdo it though where I'm not enjoying it anymore. As with everything in life, you've got to know when to stop and I'm not so good at that! Ive already been away 4 months which is quite a significant time. Im thinking of making it a round 6 then I still get to spend some of the summer in Cirencester and maybe pick up some shifts at Mencap so my training wont be wasted (after 6 months you have to do your entire induction again.)

Im sitting in Rainbow with Neil and Anne all of us ill, with no erergy, and feeling sorry for ourselves! But hey at least there is a feeling of solidarity!! If one has to be ill, it may as well be with gorgeous views, chilled music, cheap food, and good company!

Well, I mananged a good couple of hours in another internet cafe (below rainbow cafe) and am quite pleased I am catching up with my backlog and spoke to my Granma and Uncle Jack although not for as long as I would have liked. Ended up finishing just in time to meet Neil at 7pm to watch 'Into the Wild.' It was quite interesting how the guy left his material life with his family problems to 'find himself' often isolated by choice and revelling in nature, to finally die with the realisation scratched into his log, that 'happiness is only real when it is shared.' Its kind of sad he dies without being reuinuted with his family but good that he had this revelation before it was too late. Or maybe it was too late. Anyway. The past two films I have watched have not had happy endings and Im kinda glad, because generally life isnt like hollywood movies and then we get all dissapointed when we expect it to be. Im learning to be content in all circumstances like Paul talks about and this makes me much more even and level as I am not so effected by those circumstances. Even though it is not every nice I have not even minded being ill. Its an intesting journey but probably a lifelong one. I think being in a place like India where peoples expectations are so much less and people are happy despite having so many more real problems helps.

Ive managed to keep down the banana and nutella pancake I ate for lunch (45 ruppees) and also the veg sandwich with chips and salad I had for dinner (50 ruppees) Hope I sleep tonight. Anne's still throwing up and I'm still being irritated by all the bloody flies that I swear are only buzzing around to torment me and take delight in raising my blood pressure levels by resting on my nose, my face, and then buzzing off as I reach for my bat. ! It was quite amusing trying to swat them all with our electronic bat inherited from the couple next door...reminds me of Milan when that bat was flying round in circles in our room and the other girls were screaming and in hysterics and I was trying to knock it out with the handle of a broom...

Didnt make it to the hot springs today as the smell makes me nauseous feeling as I am. But at least I had a bucket bath and am clean after feeling a bit skanky being in my pjs all day!! Hope I feel well enough to go canyoning tomorrow.

Thought for the day: Happiness is only real when it is shared. - Into the Wild

Fri 12th June

Well after our mass murdering l spree last night (of the flies!) and still feeling sick tummy still making me aware of its existance, I actually slept very well. Woke up feeling significantly better and after a nice milk coffee (15 ruppess) and pastry from the bakery (30 ruppees) set off to meet others buying some yaks cheese, moutain cows cheese and mangos along the way (200 ruppees which I split with Neil) for our planned picnic lunch between canyoning sessions! Everyone was bringing some contribution. Anne decided to come even though she was continuing to not keep any food down, and Neil as well as myself were also feeling a bit shaky but we ended up having a fantastic day. We trekked up the mountains, squeezing into extremely tight fitting dry suits along the way which provided some mass entertainment as they were so tight it took half an hour to squeeze into them with many an exclamation. Basically, Canyoning (we paid 720 ruppee reduced from 900) requires dry suits (the water is really very cold here!), good footwear, harness, helmet, and ropes and attachments. You get attached to a rope which is fed down the length of the 'canyon' / waterfall but as these in part resemble slides Im not quite sure how to best describe it) and lean back and either abseil down, or turn and plonk on your backside and slide - as fast as possible! Your descent is self-controlled with a biley device, and you have have icy water spraying in your face the whole time, sometimes blinding you or knocking you over! Also there is more resistance in the biley device so you have to work your arms hard to get the speed. Its the first time I have done Canyoning and I do enjoy it and was pleasantly suprised I wasn't too cold as I love watersports but sometimes have a mixed overall experience due to getting so miserably cold.

When we got back we sat and chatted with the guys at Himilayan extreme sports and had a chai. They have 2 gorgeous dogs which we all made a big fuss of and as a group of europeans attracted some attention from passing Indians. The guy who owns the shop, (French) Fred, came here his first time intending to stay 1 week and stayed 3, then came back another time intending to stay one month and stayed 3. So then he admitted defeat and just moved here!

We have decided to do 2 day motorbike group trip to the Leu valley and stay the night, returning the next day. The french couple have extended their time here for it and I can see Anne and I staying longer afterwards as I would like to do a proper trek, some mountain biking, more rock climbing, zorbing, and a bigger canyoning trip. Its funny I can do an extreme sport every day here for the same daily budget as travelling in south east asia. It's crazy! But a great holiday amongst the travelling and is so good to have a good group to do it with, Cederick the french guy is a bit like me and wants to do everything...but good to have another proactive person like that to instigate the activities. Bring on another great day!!

Psalm 148 More of you and less of me.

Sat & Sun 13th and 14th - Motorbike trip to Rhotang Pass.

We traipsed about in the morning trying to find 4 motorbikes, which for the second time we realised is not such an easy task in India! Cederic and Audrey shared, me and Anne shared, but as Shy and Neil hadnt done it before they didnt feel comfortable either driving or being a passenger. Eventually, we found a place in Old Manali that had the desired machines, and we managed to get 1 1/2 day rate (at 500 ruppees a day) which most places didnt do, so after some lunch we set off via zorbing. Even though I have done quite a lot of scootering about south east asia, I found motorbikes quite hard to pick up at first although I knew once we got going it would be fine as it was hard to practice in a confined space. The initial and biggest problem was getting starting on very steep slopes and trying to avoid the landrovers and rickshaws that come hurtling along the narrow lanes just outside the bike shop. Cederic suggested to me than an Enfield would be better at getting up the moutain slopes with 2 passengers, and so I tried a bulky one with metal cages either side for carrying gear, but the sheer weight of it was too much for me to manoever and when not in motion, I actually toppled over. Some guy helped me get it back on its feet and rode it up the steep hill for me as I couldnt get the clutch control to start in on the slope. I tried a Pulsar which was much better and after stalling a few times, I felt like an old pro. Stalling was probably good because it made me practice my starts a lot! By the end of the day my left thigh muscle was pretty knackered!

Zorbing (about 14k from Manali) was absolutely hilarious and well worth the 3k detour. You basically get strapped like a baby into a harness inside a giant inflatable ball (getting in an out is an event in itself!) which rolled down a hill aided by the efforts of men pushing and jogging alongside it. Anne and I literally went head over heels and as we laughed and screamed at each other, it did occur to me how awful it would be if one of us was sick as it would go straight into the other persons face!! Nice thought;) Anyway...it really was great fun and worth the 200 ruppees we had got as a special deal by Cederic making a bet, and I dont think we could have gone much faster as we were already almost bouncing!! Result. The whole area was obviously set up for such sports, as there was also paragliding and pony trekking available. I want to do both, but there was no time today as the rest of the group was waiting for us and time was ticking on.

The drive became progressively more challenging as we started climbing and as it got darker. The roads are very rough with many many potholes and loose rocks and little streams / waterfalls you have to drive through. It was quite slow going at first as Shy and Neil had not biked before and as it got darker Anne and I went on ahead to get somewhere warm as I was losing feeling in my fingers which I needed for clutch and break control! - and also, more significantly,. as it approached dark, I attempted to put on my lights to find...I didn't have any! The bikes were basically heaps of junk, Cederics enfield was the closest to a fully functioning bike and still lacked a back light. Driving in India is not the safest at the best of times so it was about as difficult conditions as you can get really. You use your horn even more so than in South East Asia, and trust me that is a lot! You also get beeped a lot making you jump out of your skin, and have traffic overtaking you in close proximity. There is also a fair amount of dodging going on in the attempts to overtake the slower vehicles or get ahead of the queues which the Rhoang Pass has a reputation for. There were sheer drops down into the valley. In the absence of any lights in the pitch dark, I ended up choosing the lesser of two evils and following 2 pollution-exuding lorries up the mountain which also had the bonus of using the protection of their bulk from oncoming traffic.

Arriving at the village, we really hoped there was somewhere for the 6 of us to sleep as it was freezing. We had a Chai but couldnt really get warm as we were looking out for others in case they drived past. We met a guy who fair play to him was cycling the 457 kilometres to Leh. Bearing in mind on a motorbike its 5 days, goodness knows how long its gonna take him! Although to be fair, with the amount of queues, the speed difference is not as signicant as it would be in other contexts. But bloomin hard work. Anyway, Anne and I started to worry as the others didnt arrive for ages. It turned out that Neils bike had conked out. It kept starting and then cutting out. They ended up abandoning it and some kind Tibetan man helped them and gave Neil a lift to the village. He was also helpful in making us aware of cheaper accomodation than the government 'rest house' which had rooms for 1000 ruppee - absolute exotrtion in India and well above a backpackers budget! So - hilariously - 6 of us ended up sharing a room for three people, which entailed Cederic and Audrey sharing a single bed and Shy, Anne me and Neil sharing what amounted to a double - 2 singles next to each other. We actually slept across the width of the bed which gave us marginally more space but we were packed in like sardines and its fair to say Shy was the only one who got any sleep!!!

The next day we were a bit stuck as we didnt know what to do about Neils motorbike and to get it back to the shop would involve a long journey to allow for pushing it up the hills and cruising it slowly in nueteal down the hills. But me Cederic and Shy really wanted to see the Rhotang Pass espeically as it was only 16 k away so the others hung out in the village while we motorored off. This time the day conditions were worse but which I actually find really good fun. Think its much more interesting having difficult terrain although over any long amount of time it would be too stressful as it takes so much concentration to stay upright. My hands were freezing by the time we reached the top, which took 2 hours to ride 16 k!!! At the top we had a Chai and some instant noodles in one of the many tents. There were quite a lot of people milling about - again more yaks, horses, snow machines, and they also had tires for snow sledging. Oh to have more time to do some sledging!!! Joy of joy at the top it was snowing! I have to say I have never motorbiked in the snow before!! Descending the pass back to the village was truly the most demanding. It started raining, and there was really bad traffic. By the time we got back I was pretty exhausted from the intense concentration and cold, and drenched through. I am so grateful we were able to use a cafe kitchen as a changing room stroke sauna. Basically, Audrey brought us anything she could round up that was dry (remember we only had our day packs) and we stripped and Anne and I hung out our clothes on the Indian oven! Audreys waterproof top had thankfully and amazingly kept my top half warm but I had to substitute my jeams for my pajama bottoms which I proceeded to drive in all the way back to Manalali! The oven was an absolute god send because it enabled my shoes and socks to dry out enough to allow me to continue motorbiking back to Manali so we didn't have to stay another night and the extra costs that would entail (a days motorbike rent, accomodation in two different places as we had kept our room in Versisht.) This time it was just me Cederic and Shy as Neil was gonna leave his bike, and the girls had had enough of motorbiking for now! The trip back was also a bit of a faff because Shy had trouble with his bike which was basically falling apart and by the end he couldnt even use his footrests because they were only held up by wires which had come loose. At least an hour of this journey was in the dark. Between the three of us we had only one properly working front light, and one properly working back light! I had absolutely nothing bar a back light that flickered on when I used my back break, and shys worked intermitently and on half beam. It really was a circus but we eventually made it back somehow, by this time it was gone 9.30pm, we hadnt eated, I hadnt slept the night before and the concentration required from driving in the snow, rain and then dark in the space of one day over 5 hours of driving had taken its toll and I was grumpy! The day didnt end there however, upon finally arriving back at my room, it was still locked which meant Anne hadnt got back or had gonbe straight out with the others. It really was the last straw as I was so cold and just wanted a hot bucked bath and good sleep! However there wasnt much I could do about it, and hoped Anne would come back soon. I ended up waiting 40 minutes for her but tried not to mind as when youve had such an eventful 2 days of being cold, whats another 40 minutes?!!

Monday and Tuesday 15th and 16th June

These couple of days were really just recouperating and chilling. We did attempt to go into Old Manali to buy some warm clothes on the Monday (anticipating Leh) but we only got as far as Manali, a restaurant and atm! - before heading back to watch a movie 'almost famous.' The next day we did actually make it into Old Manali (after I changed my flight to the 4th August with the intention of travelling with Anne for the rest of her time here and that being my FINAL date!) also we had to check out of our room as our bus to Leh leaves at 2am - with Anne and Neil. We ended up spending several hours in Old Manali as it was absolutely pouring with rain - it is the wettest day I have experienced in India thus far. I ended up buying a warm wooly hat with attached scarf for 200 ruppees, and a pair of legwarmers for 100 ruppes. I looked at many coats but really want an identical version of the one I am borrowing of Audrey / Cederic as it is a waterproof with removable fleece. We ended up getting back quite late to Vershsit simply because it was raining so heavily we didnt want to venture out to hunt for a rickshaw and the palava of bartering until it was dry. 100 ruppees seem to be the set amount at night though even though it is a lot for India, its a travellers hub so the prices ar fixed higher. We went straight to Audrey and Cederics room where we had earlier left our backpacks, and where poor Audrey had been in bed all day after eating something dodgy in the morning. Due to a misunderstanding, Cederic hadnt actually bought our minibus tickets to Manali as Anne had thought, but it worked out for the best as we used their tickets to give Audrey more time to get better. They would follow the next night. They are a very genrous and good natured couple, they offered for Anne and I to crash in their room for the hour or so before getting on the minibus to....