Phnom Phen 16th, 17th, 18th, 19th

Mon 16th March - Travel from Don Det to Phonm Phen.

Today was another loooong travel day! We left the hut before 8 and paid for our way across the water. On the other island Nate bought us tickets to the border. At the border we bought more tickets to Phonm Phen. Basically it worked out more expensive than just buying an all inclusive from Don Det. Gutted!
HOWEVER because we were a last minute addition at the border, we got to ride in a car for an hour yippee oh the simple pleasures in life! One of the guys had a 10,000 kip bottle of whiskey which although strong, was a welcome swig. Or couple thereof. Apparantly the whole bottle was 10,000 kip. Unvelievable. Maybe its time to ditch the beer.

The journey itself was rather long but there were a few familiar faces which always makes things more enjoyable, including dutch guy Ruddy. Me and Nate got a seat together and listened to music for much of the way. Sometimes long journeys are good because they stop me being so manic!!!! It was very hot tho, again no air conditioning and they stopped at a place only 1 hour into the journey simply because they owned it and wanted the buisness - of course - so make the rest of the day quite a long stretch, but you start getting used to such things here.

We switched buses at some random place, where the Siem Reap lot were bunking for the night before continuing in the morning. However just as we set off, one poor guy realised his money belt containing his passport, cards, ipod photos etc basically everything important he had - had all dissapeared. We spent a good hour searching for it to no avail. Its fairly certain it was nicked. I gave him the measly remains of all the american currency I had left, but fortunately he was travelling with his partner so wasn't alone.

Things got more eventful aka annoying as we approached our final destination. Basically we alread really late due to the delay and there seemed to be some kind of set up with a guest house the other end 'Happys' ( I didn't feel very happy by this point let me tell you!) which wanted to charge a 10 USD a night. Anyway, the bus wouldnt take us anywhere else, it was late, I was tired, I was grumpy (when I get past a certain point, my mood irreversibly changes) and we eventually found a guest house in the centre after grabbling a tuk tuk between 4 of us. Or was it 5.

We had to find an ATM because neither me and Nate had any money, and then had some street food - chicken fried rice - at the nearby market which was actually really good. Was sooooooo hungry. I swear I am eating like a horse. I finished off Nates meal too because he hasnt recovered from his tummy bug. Shame hey.

Money spent: Travel 15000 kip (1.25), 2.5USD to border (1.86) 20 USD to Phnom Pen (14.81), 5 USD lunch and drinks (3.71) , 2 USD evening (1.50) . Visa 20 USD (14.81) naughty administration charges 3 seperate lots of 1USD (2.23) . Accomodation 2.5 USD (1.86). TOTAL: 42.03

Tuesday 17th March - Phnom Penh

Today we were shocked to discover it was already 9am when we looked at the watch - it could have literally been 3am (esp as so tired after yesterdays very long journey) but in a room without windows (prob the worst accomodation so far, 5 USD a night between us) there was just no way of knowing. I had to double check with my netbook to make sure! The room wasn't that great - the night before the shower hadn't worked for a while, it wasnt that clean, and noisy and bustly and in the city centre - it would have been Ok for me, I didnt really want the extra hassle of changing rooms but Nate def didnt want to stay there any more nights so we shifted. And now Im glad we did. We landed on our feet when we found a room near OK guest house 'with character' near the river - it doubled as a massage palour and possibly slighty dodgy! - but hey it adds to the fun. Our 'window' actually was an internal one with a very scant drape, so I hung my sarong up! Later on though, as we had a beer in the bar and chatted to the owners and some westerners who had helped them transform it from a crap restaraunt into a funky bar, - it is a completely legit place - no happy massages here! One wastern girl here who now loves here claims to make 2000 USD a month with 2 part time jobs which seems incomprehensible in Cambodia but there we go.

At the killing fields, Nate was chatting to the tuk tuk driver who said he aimed to make 5 USD a day on his tuk tuk job - ideally 10 USD on a good day and 15USD was really busy and the best he's ever had. Apparantly we were the only job he had had today - it kind of explains the hassle you get walking up the road from every tuk tuk driver alive - and only just went 14K out of town to the killing fields top give him his daily target (paying 7USD). This was a mass graveyard of approximately 17,000 men, women and children who were executed by the Khymer Rouge between '75-'78. There was a white memorial containing skulls and bones and old clothes.

It was quite a strange place - largely plaques explaining here was this here once stood that. But it did get me when there was a tree that was used specifically to flog children, and a mass grave containing the naked remains of women and children right beside it. Another grave contained the remains of victims with no heads. Another tree once had a speaker that was used to cover up the noises of torture. On the map it was clear that much of the site had not yet been unearthed so goodness know whats else is buried beneath the soil. It still shocks me that people are capable of such brutality and inhumanity. As nate said, how much energy and strenght and effort went into flogging someone to death - they did not use bullets, too much money. Heinous crimes are so hard to imagine but happen they did. It is good to visit such places and be reminded of such things as I find death always has a way of putting life into perspective.

Whilst there, I also popped into the local school to see about vounteering some time as I have seen poster displays of various charities and I really want to do someting for the community in developing nations. But it was not the orphanage I had seen advertised around town. I am still interested in doing some volutary work though, if I do extend my stay. I was surpised to discover at the killing fields, there were lots of children who spoke good english - well they knew enough to say 'take photo' and 'one two three cheese' and one even jokingly tried to remove my ring whilst kissing my hand. Little does he know its fake and a hand me down from my sister rozie, probalby worth less than half a dollar...
Now sitting in the bar linked to the accomodation where I am staying. Just beat Nate at pool, which he cant take because I didnt specifiy a pocket but I dont play by those rules! He already made me hit backwards from the line when I was allowed 2 free shots because he hit the white. Why when he does something wrong is it my disadvantage? I had to rebound and it didnt work! No fair ;)
Beers here more expensive. Only shame really. Otherwise like the rual areas of Laos, Campbodia reminds me of Mozambique.

Had a really fun evening playing pool with the locals and drinking beer. Nath's friend Miriam (who he introduced me to in Vang Vieng after meeting on a bus from the Thai border) turned up here. Basically after Vang Vieng she flew out of Vientiane and into Bankok where she parted with Sam (the other girl) and then came into Cambodia to go into Laos again which means buying another visa. Crazy crazy. It's weird thinking I last saw her in Vang Vieng which basically means that I have been with Nathan for nearly 2 weeks and my flight home is looming at a rate of knots.

Pool was really good fun, first of alI beat Nath and then I beat Miriam and then we played doubles and my team won (I plotted the black!) so got bought a beer. Of course it wasn't just fun because I won but hey it all helps....?! Beer's more expensive here than in Thailand or Laos. Suprising really.

This bar is really cool. Went out for a late meal with Nath and Miriam and had a very very nice spaghetti cabonara and we basically ganged up on Nath in a female kind of way. He says he is no longer the batman but is butter chicken. I told he's odd.....

We exchanged kip for US dollars with Miriam which is pretty cool because it helps us boh out. If you go to 4000 islands from Cambodia you can get stuck because there are no ATMs south of Pakse.

Money spent: Breakfast and tuk tuk and killing fields something like 8 USD. Im really losing count. Couple beers 3 USD. Gets confusing as me and Nate taking turns paying for stuff...ah well.

Wednesday 18th March - Phonm Pen.

Ok so dont compain about me writing this you didnt have to experience it...

Today want much fun at all. Up all night with tummy cramps and diorhea the spasms are so SO painful I literally have to stop whatever I am doing or saying until it passes. Which can be quite amusing for any onlookers. Nate says I look like I'm on drugs. I watched a movie on my laptop in the morning after cautiously eating some bread and butter. Then later in the day I ventured out with Nath to the central market as he has been planning on getting a camera through all of his travels. It was very busy and there are more cars on the roads than in Laos. There is more infrastructure in Cambodia methinks.
Have to say im not sure it was the best thing to do - venturing out - I had to literally stop every five minutes while I had a 'contraction' but I figured I'd rather be in pain doing something than bored and alone in our smelly room in the same amount of pain. Mind over matter was my moto but even I found it hard....!

The good side of it all was that Nate got a wicked camera and I bought a dress (10 USD) and treated myself to painted false nails at a measly 5 USD. So that helped distract me at the very least.

Went out for some food but was really struggling just felt weak and worn down with the pain. Have to say it didnt really help with Nate concocting elaborate tales of me birthing a worm. I was almost ready to punch him but... he eventually started being a bit more sympathetic. What is it with men they are complete wimps and have total sense of humour failure when they are 'ill' themselves but seem to lack any degree of empathy when it comes to anyone else. Training is in order methinks...!

Money spent: Breakfast 2USD, drinks 2.30 USD, manicure 5 USD dinner (chiecen with rice) (tuk tuks nath paid. dress 10 USD

Thursday 19th March - Travel to Sihonoukville

What a day! Rushed round the Grand Palace and Toul Seng Museum. All with tummy cramps which got progressively worse as time wore on until I am almost crying with pain at almost 11pm. ANYWAY. The grand palace was much more impressive that Thailand or Laos, and part of it is still functioning. Nath had his new camera which we both enjoyed being snap happy with. The tablets I had taken from Naths self-diagnosing medical kit helped me sleep through the night which was amazing, as it took the edge of the contractions which were also further between and lasted for a shorter duration.

I forced myself to go to the museum but I'm glad I did. It testified to 20,000 victims of the Khmer Rouge - only 7 of which survived. It also featured people who had been party to the Khmer, who were involved often through threat of death themselves. The instruments of torture were the worst, aided by paintings on the walls of how they inflicted their cruel pain.

We got to the bus station to get our onward bus to the beach of Cambodia, Sihonoukville. The bus station was just crazy, although sprayed out water which was a relief otherwise I may just have fallen down dead there and then. OK so I'm a drama queen. There was one guy I suppose equivalent to the fat controller in Thomas the Tank Engine who literally wacked people with his long cane whenever he had the urge. He blew his whistle, gave his hand signals and basically paved the way for passengers alighting from the buses which attracted tuk tuk and moto drivers like an excited swarm of flies. It was quite funny. I cannot get over how the traffic n Phomn Phen is even worse than Bankok. People are literally weaving and dodging each other, driving in the wrong lanes completely (as in driving in opposite direction to the traffic flow) and noy stopping at junctions. I took a moto to the museum as I was by myself and Nath wont go on them, and it was a slightly scary experience even for me! On the way home my driver did it one handed as he was holding a drink in the other. Thats normal here!! But I survived!

I am in so much pain right now it is ridiculous and very very trying. If it is not better by the end of tomorrow I will have to see a doctor which may not be easy in Cambodia! This place is absolutely amazing though. It is a slice of Thailand in Cambodia. Really reminds me of Ko Pang Yang. We also have the best accomodation I have had so far, all things considered. A massive room and bathroom overlooking stunning beach with a large terrace, It really is absolutely amazing for 15 USD. I am very much looking forward to doing absolutely nothing other than sunbating and reading and resting. I really need to get better before I go crazy and I also want to check out the nightlife here!!

We ate at a nearty bar, had a Cambodia dish lemon chicken with rice. It was very atmospheric and we were sitting on a platform almost on the water. Nath is sitting watching the lightening downstairs now on a very cozy couch. I sat too for a while but really just needed desperately to lie down. Please please pains stop I cant take any more!!!!!!!!!!!!

Money spent: 5 USD 2 nights accom, 4 USD bus to Sujjed, dinner 5USD, drinks 2.30 USD. Museum 2 USD tuck tuck 2USD palace 6.5 USD. TOTAL: