Sapa, Northern Vietnam

II have written my past few posts in a rush so excuse them!)

Sapa (2 days 3 nights) returning 1st.

I was supposed to be in the travel shop at 7.30pm ready for the 1st 'night' of the tour which was actually overnight on the train. I met a couple of cool germans in my bus to get to the train station then ended up in a compartment with 3 other semi interesting people but not anyone I naturally clicked with so I just tried to sleep. Uncuccesfully. It was quite possibly one of the worst nights I have ever had. Smooth is not the adjective I would use. I felt like I was being thrown around in my bunk, to the smell of smoke and loud harsh Vietmanese voices which sounded like a riot whenever the train stopped at any station as people got on and off.

It was a further hour and a half from the train station into Sapa, arriving at 6.30am to be told breakfast was at 8.30! Fortunately the german couple I met who were staying in the hotel offered me a shower and use of their room which was fabulous as I even got to blow dry my hair for the first time in 3 months! I was dissapointed to realise we were not on the same walking tour (because I was doing a 'homestay' tonight we were doing a different itinary) but I did chat a lot to a girl Emily on my trek who was there with her husband Chang, who both live in Hong Kong. Apparantly because the other group had got muddy and wet the day before the hotel told our guide, a local tribesperson, to take us the 'clean' way to the first village which was just a concrete road and not the trek I had envisaged! We wernt very happy when we found that out! Food was included in the tour and so at the first place we stopped for lunch because we didnt buy their inflated priced drinks they decided they didnt want to serve us (we worked that out after being there over an hour) and our guide had to double as waitress for us to be fed...!

There was a whole herd of local tribespeople who had gathered aoutside of the hotel to accompany us on our treks. Many had limited english, and asked the same questions (whats your name, where are you from, how old are you!) They all had a youthful quality about them, even the obviously older and more wrinkly ones! A couple were carrying babies on their backs. Their tribal costumre was beatiful and colourful and intricate in design. I saw my guide working on a piece of cloth in the evening at the homestay and I began to appreciate how much time and effort goes into embriodering a very small area. They make their own clothes, and I would expect if they were sold for their true worth, they would be an absolute fortune.

Arriving at the homestay I had a kip and then got up to observe dinner being prepared. It is a wok over a fire, and a typical Vietmanese spread made up of several dishes of rice, meats, and vegetables, and very delicious! Its not the homestay I had in mind though, this place is more like a guest house where we would be served as guests. One day I want to live and work with local people, live as one of the family otherwise its not much different to being in a hotel. But you always take a gamble when signing up so such things, and I did still enjoy the experienece.

The evening was quite amusing actually - a neighbour visited, and they plied us with rice wine and there was one other german girl there who after dinner I went on a late night walk with and we got completely lost, both completely sank our right feet in mud, and generally we were in an unknown village in the mountains and in the mist, we didnt know the name of our homstay or the names of our guides, we walked round and round to no avial until finally one of the local tribespeople recognised us from earlier in the day and led us back!

The bed was quite possibly one of the most comfortable I have stayed in and thankfully had a nice warm duvet (I had stuffed my day pack with clothes as I was so scared it would be freezing!)

The second day was much better trekking, and the rain held off. It really is beautiful here. And I really like my guide. Its a bit sad though as she was the eldest of several children she didnt get an education - basically working in the fields from the age of ten. She has been learning english for 10 years just by talking to tourists, and is obviouly intelligent, I hope she realises her ambitions but its hard without the money to begin with. I was also cross because she said she had been employed by this hotel for a month now without seeing any money, and the homestay had been putting people up for 2 months without seeing any money. She doesnt think she will get it. Apparantly thats the way things are here. She was also telling us about marriages and how they are either set up by their parents or have to be approved by their parents - but its all about whether they are compatibal according to 'the book' which must be based on star signs or something. Thet do not have rings, but silver bangles, and there is a dowry. I asked if she had missed not marrying for love, and she said she didnt know any different.

The train back was quite possibly the worst tranport experience I have had thus far. It was dirty, had rubbish in, reeked of urine, the guy in front of me put his smelly feet on my seat, a baby pucked in the chair to my left and I was the only westender in the carriage. Worst of all I was stuck on it for 10 hours overnight, on a hard seat as the sleepers were full by the time I booked! The one good thing is it gave me a good opportunity to get stuck into my book which is a fantasy I am reallly enjoying. But travel isnt just about the good times, its about the variety of experiences. Hopefully this will be a one off but at least its all character building and prepares me well for India! Lol.

Summary

I have to admit I am looking forward to leaving Vietnam. Out of the countries I have visited thus far it has been my least favourite overall. My highlights here have been Hoi An which is beautiful and full of charm, Mui Nei which was lovely and relaxing but also fun with the sand sledging! Nha Trang where I did my advanced diving and danced in the sand under the water with Euston- and Halong Bay, a lovely last few days with Nate, meeting the nutter president Leighton and having one of the best nights I've had on my travels in a stunning environment, - and of course meeting the very special crowd of people I hung out with at most points along the way who I am going to miss a lot. Oh, and the MAG music festival in Hanoi which was a blast and I got to dance on the stage at the end! So really, Ive been a lucky girl and shouldnt complain... However, ones impression of a place is also generated by those that live there and generally speaking I find the Vietmanese (especially men) very rude. I also had my camera nicked which didn't help! The weather is turning so there is more rain which gives a different feel to any environment. They all talk at the top of their voices, often shouting, or barking might be a more apt word. It makes you think a fight is going to break out at any minute because it sounds agreesive and confrontational! The trains are really dirty. I have not slept well on the sleeper buses. It is not so bad in a group but I had spent a good 2 days where I have been the only westerner and the percentage of friendly people is much lower than elsewhere. Everyone is out to scam you which I am more used to after 3 months but the difficulty here is you have to trust people even undeservedly. Nobody will ever give you objective inforation as all they are interested in is selling you their tour. The other very trying aspect of Vietnam is the amount of hassle you get. Interesting, Sapa was the worst. You simply could not sit and have a drink or a chat or a chill without the local tribespeople literally crowding round you and just waiting and following everywhere you went. Sometimes it got a bit much. I think the novelty has worn off and I am ready for India, with a little stop in Malaysia first...!

I just hope I can get on my flight as I dont have proof of onward travel and cant physically get it until going into a jetair office in Kuala Lumpa. All because they wont except payment of 30 pounds over the phone under the conditions of my ticket. Honestly.