Hoi An (3 days)

Hoi An

Hoi An (pop 75,800) is a charming town set on the Thu Bon River, with a quaint old town, bustling market, fairy lights, lovely architecture, and colourful shops specialising in silk and custom made clothes.

Day 1

I arrived early in the morning on the night bus and walked a bit trying to get a sense of accomodation costs. Is a bit annoying I arrived on different coaches to the two different people I knew travelling here at the same time. But I didnt want to waste the day in my weary and dishevelled state, (or check into accomodation if I could later hook up with my friend or Nath) so I hired out a motorbike for 3 dollars and went to Marble Mountain, which had a temple, some statues, and really cool views in all directions. I had two different women motor up beside me on the way there, asking where I was from etc and replying with a 'lovely jubbly' on both occassions which made me smile. They both claimed their family lived at Marble Mountain I could park my motorbike at their shops for free. The shops around marble mountain were pretty cool, it has to be said. There were sometimes huge sculptures of lions but a while shop of sculptures was very impressive and they were one after the other. It seemed quite quite tourist wise so no wonder they were touting for business. Afterwards, she was obviously trying to sell me a small elephant for 'only' 4 or 5 dollars but it was 4 or 5 dollars I didnt want tot spend especially to carry it round with me for the next couple of months. I felt bad but said right at the beginning I wouldnt be buying anything. Everywhere here they like to put the guilt trip on they see all westerners as being rich they dont see how lobg it takes us to save for such trips, or how we also have to work hard at home to make ends meet. The difference is our pound is strong so we can travel on it, it would be difficult for them the other way round.

After Marble Mountain, I went to have my legs done as have lost my epilator and in Vietnam they have never heard of them so not much chance of getting another! It took ages because they use cotton thread like you use to sew with, and they arrange it in such a way that it pulls the hairs out through a process of bringing them together and apart, reminiscent of cats cradle. But it is not great, just a temporary solution. However, the lady was very sweet, and attempting to make conversation in limited English. She was about my age and pregnant, and she invited me back to have lunch at her place. The food was really good actually, and it was interesting to witness a local house. It was very basic, not much furnishings. When we arrived the Mother was washing up camping style using a bucket outside. Her sister lived next door I think and I remember noticing her house was a bit more modern and she was wearing more comtemporary clothes. I was invited back the following day, but I explained I wouldnt probably not be around. It was a nice experience, but we couldnt really converse and I was the object of attention by passing Mothers and children who just stopped in their tracks to watch (then got very shy when I wanted to take a photo of them!).

I hadn't been able to get hold of Nate or Austin during the day but Nate had responded to my message and suggested a place to meet in the evening and explained he had moved into a room with someone just earlier that day. Austin had also messaged me, he had found Laura and her friends and they were sharing. So I checked into a dorm room with 2 other girls for the night and had a much needed shower before heading out. Would you believe I went to meet Nathan and who was there but my two dutch friends! I keep bumping into them everywhere! Nate and I had a drink and then went for some food by the river. Was a bit weird after not seeing him for probably a couple of weeks. It was lovely down there - the old town is a Unesco World Heritage sight and I can see why. We went for a walk after our pizza, and arranged to meet the next afternoon to go to the beach.

Day 2

In the morning, Tom arrived and we checked in to another hotel before heading into the old quarter on motorbikes. It was really hot and I enjoyed looking round the market, but you do get followed, and hassled, and I think Tim found it a bit much although for some reason I was really in shopping mood and it didnt bother me I even enjoyed it and was amused by the whole experience. The crowd were also wanting to go to the beach so we headed all there together. It wasnt the same beach I had gone to yesterday (did I mention I went to Cat Dai yesterday?) but it was still nice and even more so when Nate and I went for a walk along and met a very cute little boy who ran up to me as we were approaching who I played with for a while. Also as we walked we came across more of the little circular wicker fishing boats and it got very secluded and local and there were no other westerners around. It was actually a really nice beach. Returning to the others later on, it was absoutely packed with locals. Its like the beach had been taken over! It was really quite bizarre as when we had left it there wasnt that many people there.

That evening we all went for a meal and some rum! We ended up in some bar to see Austin but he wasnt there even though I was happy to see Laura and Mei.

Day 3

I saw Nate in the morning and met the others at the Japanese bridge at 1pm. The others went to Marble Mountain and Nate and I set off to find a place that had been recomended to be for its surfing. I was about to give up hope after a long motorbike ride when I came across a sign and so we hired a boogie board after realising there was just not the surf for proper surfing, and sat on the windy beach. I was determined to catch a wave, but they just wern't there I was quite dissapointed!

In the evening Nate got some bad news so didnt come out with the crowd as he had to write emails and sort things out. We went for some street food, and onto a bar I cant remember the name of but what a wicked night. Between a certain time they literally gave you free rum and coke so I just drank in that hour and that was enough for me! This crowd are so great, I will really miss them and I had good times up the coast of Vietnam. Austine was leading some drinking games and I and the girls danced most of the night on the pool table. It really was a fun fun fun night. I headed back about 1 when it looked like a fight was brewing, and the guys were moving onto another venue as I am catching an early bus to Hue with Nathan in the morning and felt I had already had a fab time but was starting to feel if I stayed out it would only be for the sake of it. Tom was catching an early one too (who I am sharing a room with), but he stayed out and then kept me awake with his snoring for 1 1/2 hours despite my best attempts to wake him up by shaking him, shouting in his ear, turning the lights on and off, rattling and banging about in the room. To no avail!!!!!!!I I didnt want to come on too strong though as he had previously shared how he had punched a friend when he woke him up once.... just a reflex action, apparantly, but not one I wanted to experience...

I will miss Hoi An. It is definately one of my favourite places I have been to so far. The atmosphere in Old Town is just so lovely with the river and the laterns and the fairy lights. Normally everyone who comes here has tailor made clothes because it is so cheap, but my treats have been my diving and you cant have it all, even though I try. Next time.