Goa (16th - 19th May)

Goa: The main draws of Goa are the beaches, and thats where we (me and Neil, and later Ducky and her two friends) unashamedly headed (Palolem in South Goa) for some sun and relaxation! It was approaching the end of the season, so some accomodation wasn't available and by the time we left they were taking down and burning wooden huts. Nut it was nice that it wasnt packed and party central - I wasnt really in the mood - and it was great to be able to don my bikini in a country where you otherwise have to be much more modest, and in fact feel uncomfortably out of place if not. I didnt keep up with my blog so well in Goa - I didnt 'do' a lot except a lot of thinking about stuff! - but you should still get the idea. I had been going through a bit of a low patch and wasnt sleeping very well. But the time here recouperated me and by the time I left I was ready to exlore what India had to offer... Highlights included kayaking along the coast, boating in the backwaters (photo of me and Ducky above), reading the fantastic novel Shantaram (set in India), and having beachfront accomodation! Yes! The picture of the Whale above was washed up prior to my arrival but I managed to get a pic off a friend. I just saw the huge mound of sand where it was buried slap bang in the middle of the beach...

Saturday 16th May Well I have to say I slept appaulingly on the overnight train - I think from now on I will cave in and take valium which seems to be the norm among travellers in Asia although in England it is quite serious to take it without a prescription. I do so many overnighters though and because i dont function well on no sleep it is affecting me for a day or two afterwards. I heard a story of a guy here who went to the pharmacy here and said what can you sell me that I can make money on in England? They got out Valium, Amphetamines, Viagra, Ketamine and some other form of Viagra. Must be in demand! I am learning more about the Indian culture here. One of the most obvious things is their modesty with their dress. As a westerner you actually feel umcomforable wearing skimpy clothes which is a nightmare for me because I hate wearing things over my shoulders in the heat. When we were changing for the Bollywood commerical the Indian women were very concerned about locking the door even though it was a ladies changing room. They even seemed to cover up in front of other women. I was suprised to discover though it was not uncommon for a husband of 40 years to have never seen his wife completely naked. Even to wash they keep certain undergarnments on. I think I would find this very hard. Im even finding it trying sharing rooms with guys because it means I have to go into the bathroom or whatever every time I want to change. It makes me realise how much our culture and upbringing have an intrinsic role in defining who we are and what we find comfortable. For example I think however long I spent in India I would always prefer my western style of dress and wearing a bikini rather than swimming fully clothed.

Our train terminated at Colocana station and we got another local train for 23 ruppee each for a 40 min journey to Pallolem nearby : a beach that was known for backpackers but also being beautiful. We met a lovely Welsh couple Kiera and her boyfriend who are travelling for 10 months or something and have been to South America, where they suggested Peru and Bolivia as definately worth visiting. We shared a taxi with them paying a relatively whopping 100 ruppee to get to the beach. Cozy Nook was full (which I had seen in the lonely planet and liked the sound of!), but we managed to secure two beach huts nearby and without too much effort for 125 ruppee per person. We chilled out for the rest of the day. Once me and Neil were on the beach sunbathing, Sherie the aussie came strolling along who we had met in Mumbai. We joined them in Cafe Del Mar, which Neil was delighted to discover showed footie! I cautiously had a beer (still not had a proper meal yet with dodgy tum) and chatted to the welsh couple who had also joined us. They met through being on a chat forum for a music festival. She at the time was living in Malta and him in Wales. After a few stops and starts she moved to Wales and looking at them they really are a lovely couple, so in love and quite young - she moved there 2 years ago and is only 21. It is also very amusing as she has more of a Welsh accent than him but has only picked it up since living there! Even though she is Maltese, English was her first language so it is definately an acquired accent.

It is out of season in Goa but I think I prefer it where its not party party party full on. I really need some recuperation and to chill more rather than always feel I have to move on for the sake of seeing more places. We had a nice meal (western - yes!) and went to bed about 10.

Sunday 17th May Well I had another awful nights sleep me and Neil were eaten by bed bugs and the fan hardly worked so was tres hot. Think will have to find another place tomorrow which is exhausting in itself packing and traipsing round in the heat again! Had a nice western breakfast, and managed to find a more substantial building, concrete, on the beach front with balcony and safe and decent fan for 150 ruppee each so happy with that. Did some handwashing and just chillled.

I am feeling very contemplative at the moment. I could almost do with being completely by myself which is ironic because too much time in my own company and I feel lonely. I do fluctuate a lot. sometimes I find it a strain being around people all the time and even though its cheaper to share I find myself craving my own space. Neil is very easy going to be with though and a really nice guy. He is flying home soon but Ducky should be arriving tomorrow and then I think I will head to Hampi...

I had a nice evening. Neil and I went out for some food, paid 300 ruppee for a gorgeous steak in mushorrom sauce meal with veg and rice and chils and potatoe! And a gin and tonic! Was amazing! Then went and had a Mojito at Cafe Del Mar.

18th May I am writing this at a later date from notes and I think I have got dates confused somwehere along the line but here are some observations of this place:

- There are waterbuffalo on the beach!
- Loud noises in the night made me run out of my skin - it was coconuts falling on our roof! I head somewhere that more people die of cocunuts falling on them than being run over by a bus. But I think that was Thailand...!
- The dogs here are mental. They get all territorial and at some ridiculous hour have a little party where they make their presence known by howling and barking for all their worth. Ive not witnessed this is any other country..
- There is actually a WHALE buried underneath the sand on this beach. The mound was so huge I thought it must be a crack but it has since proven true as my friend Anne was there when it got washed up and she has got photos of it and the Indians surfing on it! Only in India would a huge mammel be buried in a tourist resort. My friends though it smelled but I didnt notice...then again I never did have much of a sense of smell..!
- When we ate our evening meal there was a little frog sitting in our spare seat. Aw.
- I also heard today that Indians think nothing of going to the loo in the street but when it comes to drinking out of bottles they hold them so their mouth doesnt make contact with the rim. Weird.

19th

Had a ridiculous breakfast or should i say a lovely breakfast - egg and chips, filter coffee and a banana milkshake for 90 ruppee, just over a quid. Was so so happy to finally have my legs waxed for another ridiculous 150 ruppee, under 2 quid. I did other girly things for a while before heading off with the guys to do some Kayaking. It was really fun in the sea (and hard work!) because of the waves, and we were going pretty solid for the hour along the coastline which it has to be said is stunning, with the landscape of palm trees agains the mountains. Upon return it was just a turnaround before heading out into the backwaters the 5 of us. This was really very beautiful, it was a bit like the 4000 islands in Laos and punting down a little tributary off the mekong in Vietnam. Very peaceful, amongst nature. Our guides pointed out the herons and the kingfishers. It was so peaceful, but I think I am starting to take these things for granted it occured to me had I experienced that at the beginning of my travels I would probably be banging on about it. I like it in Goa because it is a little bit of my familiar and comfortable western culture. I like proper coffees, chocolate pancakes, clean toilettes with toilet paper! - alcolohol, bikinis, and I even bought my 3rd cholocate bar I have eaten on my travels! Choc is similar price to england here, whereas thailand etc was a lot more expensive.