Hampi

The ruins of 15th century Hampi are a world heritage sight, set in an awesome landscape of giant granite boulders, lush paddies and banana plantations. My photos didn't do it justice. It was truly a magical place.

Accomodation: Funky Monkey. over the river. 90 ruppee for sinle room but no electricity pretty much the whole time we were there!

Thursday 21st May - Hampi

Well only one full calander month left and earlier on today I wasnt even sure if I wanted that. Travelling loses its appeal as you get weary of repacking and having to book trains and find accomodation everywhere. India is harder and more titing than other places I have been to; things are much further away from each other, you are not travelling on a natural circuit like for example going up or down the coast of Vietnam. You also have the fear of being stared at, groped, being scammed all the time and the heat makes things very uncomfortable. But I arrived into India tired, into the city of Mumbai which is expensive and full of smells - not good with a tummy bug! However, Goa was refreshing espeically after I rediscovered how to sleep. Seriously, I couldnt remember the last time I slept normally. When I did I felt the old Carla returning. Also swimming and Kayaking helped as in the heat in others places brings passivity and lethargy.

We got up 5.30 to leave at 5.30, paid 100 for a rickshaw between three of us (a girl called Alaina from New Zealand who was on her way home after being based in London for 2 years) to Colocana train station, 8 ruppee each for a local train to Magao, then me and Ducky only paid 84 ruppees each for a 7 hour train journey! It was rather uncomfortable though, and there was one very spoilt girl and an equally spoilt mother and grandmother taking up room on the seats. Even when other Indians got on the train and argued with them to move up or at least tell their daughter / grandaughter to stop sprawling over 3 seats worth, they reluctantly shifted but still didn't back down. Its quite common here for people to come and sit in any and every available space, if that feels like its as good as on your lap, thats just the way it is! You also get used to peoples bags prodding you, your sweaty clothes mingling into others, and sleeping at obscure angles. Some people make the attempt to be friendly, offering food. But any attempts at conversation are frustrating, as many Indians do not speak English. Those that do do so because they are dependant on tourist for their living. A big difference from Malaysia where almost everyone speaks english because it is compulsory at school. The other thing about the trains is that you literally shit into a hole in the floor which plops straight onto whichever unsuspecting section of train track happens to be directly underneath! Especially in the cities, where squatting in the middle of the road is not an unfamiliar site, you cant go too far without the drifting and naseating smell of faeces...! This can be fairly ironic, as Indians will happily wipe themselves with their left hand, do the aforementioned without shame, but not directly drink from a water bottle; instead they hold it at a distance as they tip it to trickle into their mouths. The contradictions here are many, often not making sense, but those in the know, shrug their shoulders and say 'this is India' - the accepted answer that means anything goes!

I did however attempt my first ever (public!) Indian head wobble, or bobble or waggle or whatever you want to call it, which was met immediately by a delighted smile and waggled response by the man sitting next to me! It felt good, although very awkward. I'm sure with practice it shall become more natural. You sort of have to keep your chin held in the same position as the rest of your head rotates on a two dimensional plane around it. It feels like your taking the mickey but I bet by the time I go home people will be looking at me strangely wondering what the hell I'm doing....!

I have finished 'Shantaram' which think although being one of the best books I have ever read due to its combination of history, witty obervations into India culture drawing parallels with my own discoveries, love story, gangsta lifestyle and wit, has contributed to my sombre and intense mood the past few days. Some of its comments on life and the human condition are complex and profound, sometimes slightly self indulgent. It is very philosophical and I think I was stuck most of all at the honesty and openess that the protagonist talks about his life, and his loneliness and his fears and his struggles. Lots of people back home think travelling is exotic and you get comments like arnt you lucky like youve won the lottery or something, or just an expectation your living it up all the time. I am travelling on a very tight budget, after working with hardly a social life for 18 months, risking missing acting work, back to no job, venturing into unfamiliar situations and cultures, by myself, and sometimes I have very lonely days or my depression which has hounded me for years pops up out of nowhere. I question sometimes why I am doing this, and I proving something to myself or to others, what I am searching for, what I feel I need to discover about myself. Travelling has this way of making you confront things you may otherwise be able to distract yourself from or hide from or deny. Travelling can hit you where youre most insecure, and also where your most secure. YOu meet people that challenge the way you view the world. Your eyes and your mind are constantly being challenged and expanded. It is amazing and if your honest, it can be painful. But I also realise there are two types of people in the world. If you could experience real happiness, knowing it would be followed by real pain, would you do it or would you avoid it at all costs? I can pretty much safely say that 90% of people on the travelling circuit crave experience, so yeah they would go for it. So by default you are meeting many people who have something essentially in common with your own nature. But I also see that I am a lot deeper (not saying this is necesarrily a good thing) that the average person around me, could be affected by things for weeks on end that others could brush aside. While I am learning to control this to a degree, I also have to accept its just part of who I am. And part of being a creative person. Many people in the arts are the same.

I am not sitting on the opposite side of the river to Hampi. with Ducky and Alaina This is the first place ive been to thats how I perceive as authentic india. There are scattered temples, colourful locals, hindi music, and a beautiful red river surrounded by rocks and formations and views that ere on the spiritual. It is a lovely place and I feel very peaceful. There is no electricity in our accomodation tonight and we are currently trying to figure out how to spend our evening with no cold drinks, no alcohol (banned) or cards (banned). Also no bikinis....(not banned but not such a great idea!!!)

Now I am in my room in 'Funky Monkey'. I am so excited to have my own room again. I have shared my space with others for so long, which I didnt have to do but just worked out that way and also for financial reasons. For 90 ruppees I have my own room with nice view and private bathroom. I can walk around in the nuddie or bleach my tosh without having to think about anyone else ;)ha ha

There is electricity cut on this side of the river, which makes life a little more difficult but much more ambiotic and interesting. Its kinda like camping. But the flip side is they dont have a lot of ingrediants as they have gone off with no elec so I didnt get my Vanilla Lassi. Ah well maybe tomorrow.

Just starting to look forward to the rest of India now. Its getting in my bones. Think the main things I will find hard here and the long journey, and the hassle from everyone.tryin to sell you things or rip you off.

Friday 22nd May

What a fab day. We had a lazy breakfast and got the boat across the red river. After a bit of hassle with sellers, we rented out some bikes (40 ruppee) and headed out to the main temples 'Zenana Enclosure' and 'Elephant stables'.

I cant really describe how stunning it is here. I searched for beautiful landscapes and nice trekking in the north of vietnam, and the highlands of Malaysia, but I dont think any of them were like this. I think possibly because it is unexpected, but also the combined effects of the red river, crumbling ruins and lush greenery. There is something...magical here. It is certainly hot, and this is the only obstacle to seeing more of the temples, however it makes me very happy simply cycling by them ,and just taking in the general landscape. I find myself drinking and drinking, but alas no alcohol! - and I also tried this rather unpleasant drink called butter milk which sounds sweet, but is actually very salty. Thats what its for. To replace the fluids lost. I may make myself drink it every day to avoid the headaches and muscle cramps I had in Mumbai.

Its a very lazy and peaceful place here but we may struggle to get away as we have been warned the sleeper trains to Mumbai are full. The bus is really expensive. Or maybe the guy just lied about the train so we would buy the bus. Thats happens a lot here and we're a bit stuck as the electricity is still out and we cant check online ourselves.

I find myself feeling more like the old Carla, excited and looking forward to the amazing places India has to offer. Me Ducky and Elaina are talking about all travelling together which is pretty cool. Girly road trip ;) Depression is going out the window thank goodness.

I bought a couple of very bright clothes too which is cool. I wonder if I will wear them back in the UK.

Sat 23rd May

We got up really early to see the elephant being bathed in the river, which was a lovely sight. The elephant seemed happy and content, letting her owner scbub her all over with a small piece of rock. I can see why elephants are held sometimes with spiritual esteem, there is something about them you are in awe of perhaps also due to their size and groundedness.

We wandered for breakfast at the famous 'Mango Tree' and then to the main temple 'Virupaksha' in the bazaar. Again we saw the same elephant, this time with her war paint on, standing and accepting 1 ruppee coins with her trunk which she proceeded to give to her owner and then use her trunk to touch the tops of peoples heads in a a gesture of blessing. It was quite cool, especially feeling the end of the elephants trunk as I held out my hand to offer my payment!

After this we spend some time trying to figure out transport. Its gonna be a killer of a journet to Udaipour, basically 2 days and 2 nights of travelling. Also quite expensive - 1550 ruppes, about 21 quid.

After this I felt really low and cried for a while. I hink it is because I am feeling not so good girl vibes, I feel a bit left out of the trio like there is cliquiness going on that im not a part of. Thats why I traditionally get on better with guys! I went off by myself and attempted to find the waterfall.

I bumped into a couple of amercians who I ended up chatting with and then having lunch with. Then I headed back into town and sat and drank chai with an Indian guy, 28 yrs old, rather good looking but just nice to chat to. He owned a pretty funky jewellery store. I got the boat back and met my finnish friend who had rather in interesting book based upon our converation yesterday ie emotions dont have to control you. It is from a spiritual rather than christian perspective but I think will still be very insightful.

I felt a lot happier by the end of the day. Its weird how I can fluctuate so much within the space of a couple of hours. Im just tryin to get through the low bits and accept they happen from time to time. Recently more than most, but I've still been able to enjoy things too.

Sunday 24th - Hampi

This morning before leaving with Alaina and Ducky, I met up with Jaako and went for breakfast, and then we went on his borrowed motorbike to the resevoir to have a swim. There was actually a sign saying 'crocodiles' ! - but we avoided the shady areas, stayed shallow, and took the plunge as it were! I came out alive so all was OK. I actually swam in my clothes kinda Indian style! - as couldn't find my bikini that morning but my clothes dried within half hour. Jaako was a bit of a crazy driver so was glad to get back to the hotel with no scrapes! I got my bag, took the boat across the lake and popped in to have a 'chai' (Indian tea) with the guy in the jewellery shop and bought some black silver studs. We then embarked on.....