Photos: Views from Amber fort, the famous 'Raj Mandir' Cinema, a random horse with painted toenails!, a bazaar, and Anne and I outside Jaipur: 'the pink city'. Why does it download my photos backwards?!
Jaipur - 1st June first full day
Jaipur is a larger city than I have been accustomed to of late (2.63 million) and as far as I was concered was unwelcomingly chaotic and congested - and hot!!. However, despite the seemingly greater humidity and lots of annoying attention from the male species, we still had some fun including watching a half english, half-hindi film at the famous Raj Mandir cinema, going to a fair where we were the only white people and seeing some awesome stunts, the Jantar Mantar observatory, and visiting the impressive Amber Fort out of town.
Accomodation; Paradise Hotel, next to Evergreen (in Lonely Planet.) 200 ruppee for a room although we were lucky - minimum is 250. Rooms at evergreen were 300 but we still went there to eat.
By the time we checked in last night it was nearly 11 o'clock. I had a good sleep in a room with a fan that worked, and a nice film mattrress, but the past few days in the heat and not sleeping well has taken its toll, I do feel very tired. We had a nice western breakfast at Evergreen - 70 ruppee and we wandered via checking out films at the cinema enroute to the old city, or otherwise known as the 'pink city'. We bumped into a couple of Argentinian guys who are 18 months into their travels. They helped us avoid a little of the copious amounts of attention Anna and I recieved from 'helpful' and 'friendly' indian guys all wanting to also have 'conversations' to improve their english. We really wern't in the mood, being very tired and it being very very, very hot!
My first impressions of this place are - I dont like it! - but I do recognise I have been totally spoilt by being to three delciously gorgeous smaller towns in a row - Hampi, Udaipur, and Pushkar - all of which I absolutely loved. I never like cities as much anyway, personal preference. The pink buildings were I suppose something a little different but the madness of the traffic and the hassle sort of overshadowed it. The unbearable heat was also a factor in Anne and I mutually deciding to abandon our seperate previous plans and rather continue travelling together, heading North to the coolness of the moutnains and the fun of adventure sports!! I really like Anne, I think she is a genuine person, there is something very sweet and gentle about her that I feel a little protective of and already have affection for her. I also recognise qualities in her that are in me. The only problem sometimes is her lack of understanding (being German) of some of the words or phrases I use although generally her English is very good. I'm so pleased to be with another female that I genuinly like and have things in common with, it is sooo much simpler than the complications of guys! Its funny that both the girls I have got close to on this trip have been German, and I think I was a little prejudice towards germans before. I miss Ellie actually, and the whole crowd from Vietnam, and although being with Nathan had good moments in a different way, part of me wishes I had spent more time with my friends and really made the most of it because it was such a good bunch of people and I think I took it for granted a bit and I do now miss them a lot and know we will never meet in that way again, although I will always have fab memories like the music festival, sand dunes, and night out in Hoi An amongst others.
One cool place we went to in Jaipur was called 'Jantar Mantar' a wonderful if slightly bizarre, Alice In Wonderland like scientific observatory, began by Jai Singh 1728. We grabbed a couple of other westeners and got a guide for 150 ruppee (150 entrance fee) which as the Lonely Planet promised did indeed provide fascinating facts into the mammoth instruments that measured signs of the zodiac and included a huge 27 metres high sundial, accurate to 2 seconds. They really were very impressive. But it was oh, so hot!!! I filled my water bottle and just soaked my hair to cool down.
We wandered around the bazaars and bought some bindis, which are little spots you stick onto your forehead (although officially wearing one means we're married but who cares!) and got seduced by air conditioning and a Chai into a shop where I bought two gorgeous and bright cushion covers. I paid 100 each and later found some identical ones for 25 ruppee!! Gutted!! Sometimes the cheapness of items works against you because you dont want to rip off the shop and you assume things are more expensive than they are, especially if they have like hand embroidery, But labour is nothing In India. You dont pay for labour here. It got a bit much though, every single shop we walked past were trying to get us inside and you feel annoyed and frustrated you have to explain why or why not you want ot buy something with your own money on your own holiday. Then they force you to be rude by their persistance and then you feel bad and you have somehow given westeners a bad name. You cant win!!! Individually you can cope with it, but it is a completel barrage and feels quite violating because you simply cant just walk along in silence or just chatting to your friend or taking time out. Absolutely without doubt you will be questioned and someone will be there to pester you. It is a lot worse than Vietnam. But I guess Ive had a lot of practice and trying to keep my humour! They also don't realise you are more likely to a) go into their shop b) browse and c) buy something if they dont lay on such pressure!
Speaking of which, I did go into a rather nice shop full of colourful and dare I say much more expensive sari's where I tried on another gorgeous sari. Im not sure if I should have bought my other one. But I couldnt have afforded this one anyway it was 4000 ruppees! But I was kind of in heaven. Some sari's are just so beautiful and I find myself looking much more at the clothes Indian women are wearing since I am interested in wearing one myself to my party.
We bought a cinema ticket to watch 8 x 10 for 70 ruppee, the mid range 'emerald' seats. It was a strange mix of English and Hindi, so half the fun was trying to follow the story in the Hindi parts by the cinematography and facial expressions, action etc. It was not traditional bollywood but had a proper hollywood storyline of a guy with special powers trying to identify his fathers killer. It was actually quite good, and high quality and used some great locations in south africa amongst others, although missing several of the explanations as the story unfolded with more bits of evidence or insights, some of it admittedly went over my head!!! The cinema building 'Raj Mandir' was a sight to behold - apparantly it is the 'icon' of Jaipur, and the most famous Hindi cinema in the whole of India. I managed to get a couple of pics before being told off...! It was such a treat doing something familiarly western in an obviously indian environement - architecturally and culturally. For example, it was asian in design, although classy in contrast to the litter lined streets. But it was also common for kids to cry, people to chat, phones to go off at pivotal points in the film, and people to talk on them unashamedly loudly. To my suprise, no one seemed to mind! It was kind of like having the TV on at home with people carrying on around it, albeit on a mahousive screen! And it was great getting popcorn for only 20 ruppees! I was sitting there just thinking how lucky I am to be in India and how much I love it here and how I may stay longer after all!! Especially as Anne and I seem to be both up for doing things like treks and white water rafting etc. I dont feel unsafe here but you need a bit of solidarity and support amongst the staring and male attention. It just is nicer I guess.
We then wandered up the road (after our second visit to macdonalds in the sam day he he) and paid 10 ruppess to get into the fair ground we had seen earlier in the day, and we felt like big kids, getting all excited! Predictably, we were an attraction in our own right, people say hello left right and centre and if I get asked one more time where Im from I think I will scream!!!! Speaking of which, I ended up on a ride with an Indian girl who really did scream a lot but it was very amusing especially as to me the ride was a lot more tame than the ones found in England.
One amazing 'show' was a circular dome, where 2 motorbikes and 2 cars wizzed around, literally on their sides up almost vertical walls. This was built up to by one motorbike to begin with, then another who did no hands, swerving side to side just using the motions of his body and no steering, and then a car, and the guys even poked their bodies out the windows. It really was amazing and had I not been videoing it on my camera I would have had one had firmly clapped over my mouth!
One very persistent rickshaw driver wore us down once we had left, and we hopped in for a ridiculous 5 ruppee which he didnt even collect at the end. Meeting genuinly nice people sometimes makes all the others worthwhile!
One funny incident back at the hotel and after saying hi to Ducky who had just arrived from Pushkar, was a very bizarre sound that sounded like a goat in the hotel reception. I inquisitvely opened my door and ventured out, and indeed it was, a goat just outside the hotel door, bleating away and as soon as it saw me it charged! I ran back to my room and slammed the door! It must have been on drugs or something!! Very tired ZZZZzzzzzzzz....
I never walk alone, christ walks beside me; he is the dearest friend ive ever known.; with such a friend to comfort and to guide me, I never, no I never walk alone.
Tuesday 2nd June
I really am having the time of my life. I want to make every second last. And thats even on a day like today where its so hot its uncomfortable and makes you too lethargic to do anything. I am on a train to Delhi, then overnight to a place called Mcleod Gange. I am very very tired but just keep realising how fortunate I am to be here and how happy I am experiencing other cultues. I think travelling is important to me and I want to give it a high priority. I will have these memories for ever. I never want it to end now I am feeling myself again.
I woke up this morning and we dragged ourselves out of bed to sort our tickets 9ish. I have committed to going north with Anne now, we just have to find a way! With Dukcy in tow, we got a rickshaw and went via the train station to book ticket, to Amber Fort-Palace, 11k north of town, and the ancient capital of Jaipur state. The walls surrounding it are an astounding 14 Km long and it is quite spectacular set amongst the hills. Again though, the heat was just too much.We really should have gone early morning or evening. But it was still a worthwhile trip and we made our way to the station for a 4.35 train that typically didn't end up leaving 'til 6pm! I can't tell you how much I am looking forward to cooler temperatures, like really!!! It has just got to the point of being unbearable to me. But everything works out for the best as I am very happy about continuing to travel with Anne and going to Manali!!!! Agra and Varanasi may be more enjoyable with a bit of monsoon making things less humid. Bring it on!!!!!
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