India, Mumbai (Bombay)

Mumbai: (16.4 million) Measure out: one part hollywood, six parts traffic, a bunch of rich power-moguls; stir in half a dozen colonial relics (big ones) pour in 6 heaped cups of poverty, add a smattering of swish bars and restaurants, equal parts of mayhem and order, as many ancient bazaars as you have lying around, a handful of Hinduism, a dash of Islam, fold in your mixture with equal parts India, throw it all in a blender on high (adding generous helpings of pollution to taste) and presto: Mumbai.

The hightlights of Mumbai include shooting the Samsung Mobile advert with a-list Aamire Khan (photos above), chowpatty beach (above) and a lovely day at a 5 star hotel (above) where Neil also had his underwater camera. The colonial arch above is the famous 'gateway to India' built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V. It acts as a favourite gathering for locals and the hubbub of a bazaar. It was where we shot the outside scene for the advert. The lows include dirty accomodation and a tummy bug!

Accomodation: Salvation Army, Colaba. 195 ruppees for a dorm room. By far the cheapest in an expensive city.

Monday 11th May

Got to Bankok airport OK and in plenty of time. I am feeling rather unattractive at the moment I think my excessive eating habits have finally caught up with me and it makes me feel a bit crap about myself esp the last few days when I hjust havnt been able to make a good photo. Very depressing! I am very unprepared I will just pray than the Lord will put me in contact with people so I am not in an unknown city by myself without a lonely planet or any idea where I am going next!

I am excited, just wish id been more strict and made sure I got more sleep last night. It was ridiculous really but 45 mins is better than nought! Got chatting to an English guy who had a few months experience of India so got the low-down and exchanged facebook names. I was later to discover he knows my friend Sophie from back home. Its a small world!

OK so my flight went fine I watched a pretty mediocre film with Kate Winslet and Leonado DiCaprio in which I was dissapointed in as I like them both as actors. Arriving in Mumbai, I got an airport taxi for just under 5 quid which wasn't bad considering the journey took 1 1/4 hours. It was quite tough in the heat but an experience in itself. Even the taxi drivers were funny, crowding round me and taking photos of me and my taxi driver which they found hilarious. Driving through Mumbai wasn't a massive culture shock as I am fairly used to the asian thing of crazy driving and crowded streets and regular honks, but I did catch glimpses of poverty as we drove past slums.

There is more colour here - the women in their beautiful sarongs. As soon as I arrived (we drove past 'The Salvation Army' where I remember reading had cheap rooms) and got a dorm for like 2.50 including breakfast this place is really dirty and the staff not very helpful but needs must, and staying in dorms is always a good way to get chatting with people.

I headed straight out at about 2.30 local time and went down to take picutre of the sea front. I immediately got approached about being in a Bollywood advert and went to meet the casting director for the extras. The pay is a measly 6 quid but thought it would be a laugh so signed up. I went for a late lunch in a famous cafe 'Leopards' which still has bullet holes from the terrorism attacks where I got chatting to an Irish girl who has been living in India (Delhi) for 2 years. The more I spent time with her the more amusing it was, and I realised she was the Jekyl to my Hyde, definately my alter ego as we were very opposite but seemed to get on really well almost all the more for it. Her Indian boyfriend turned up after several beers and snacks, an older man (she doesnt actually know his age but fears it may be over 50 - shes 23! - who I really liked and is in the film industry, owning his own buisness in sound and camera equipment. He very kindly just warned me not to trust people too much here, and that there were genuine cases of people having been deported (2 flew out that morning) for illegally working in India. It was an aspect of the Bollywood thing I hadnt considered but we also realised if I wanted to get a proper work visa, they could write a letter of reccomendation and I could fly somewhere close, like Nepal, to upgrade it from a tourist visa then I would be free to look for work legitametely. There seems to be opportunities for voice overs at the very least.

The bar we were in was full of Indians, and I am starting to be introduced to the concept of being very obviously stared at. Jo was also trying to teach me how to head bobble! Apparantly nodding and shaking still mean yes and no, but the bobble thing is a mixture of the two and often means maybe, or OK. The first time someone did it to me it freaked me out and I wonder if I'll ever be able to do it myself without looking like I'm taking the mickey!

They were very kind and wouldnt let me pay for any of the drinks or food which I had deliberately refrained from having much of, but still nibbled at and had a fair few lagers. Jo is returning to work tomorrow but I hope I will see her again.

Back at the hostel I had a shower and an earlyish night, ready for the shoot tomorrow...!

My impressions of India right now are positive although I would like to get out of the city for a while esp after spending that time in KL. I may have to work around the weather too as its getting unbearable in the south and may even start the monsoon. Aparantly the north of India is where its at at this season and I was suprised to learn one can actually rock climb, and snowboard of all things! - and sky dive so I can feel the excitment brewing in my bones!. Will see how the next few days pan out but I am less concened at meeting people to travel with now. I keep realising the things I do and the freedoms I have would not be the same if I had to consider someone else the whole time. I can be completely random and things are good.

Best thing: Prospect of acting work and meeting Joe and Imnif.
Worst thing: Long taxi ride in the heat but still interesting

Tues May 12th

Got up very early to do the shoot. I think the guy was worried we'd bail out on him because of the ridiculously early call time, but everyone was there and accounted for, many of us staying at the Salvation Army. We took a short walk to location number 1: the 'the gateway to India' where the crew were already set up. Its so funny how they want westeners as background artistes but when it comes to costume the tops are distincly asian even though we were told to wear our 'normal' clothes. I wasn't actually needed for a long time but this ultimately worked against me as the people (blonds - must be more close ups!) chosen for the first scenes left at 11am and my day was much much longer! So, wait for it...my role was...taking photos of pigeons. Yep, Bollywood eat your heart out, english actress Carla Thraves is taking photos of pigeons. I was sadly eclipsed by the slightly better known Aamir Khan who is a-list but hey he'll know me one day! Apparantly in India famous actors are contracted to a certain number of adverts etc which you just don't find in England, its considered more for people who are on the out or wannabes. I quickly realised why they started so early - even by 8 o'clock it was getting very hot. There were crowds of Indians interested in the shoot and perhaps hoping to catch a glipse of my co-star...! Everything else resembled a film set in England really until we went in a loooong taxi ride to get to the studios which was quite uncomfortable in the heat with no air conditioning and arricing which were really run down. However once inside the magic of film was evident. There were two sets; one a 'tube' or underground train compartment, and 2 a much more sparkling bling bling traditional set for a dance sequence later. I and my fellow actors were required for the underground carriage. The set up was Aamir Khan noticing a bored-looking girl on the tube and sharing his music with her using his Samsung mobile phone which magically transformed her mood. Yep you guessed it the advert was for Samsung mobile..! I got chatting to the model and her photographer boyfriend who was one of the commuters and she's just starting out in Bollywood, after working in Thailand. She was actually American and very beautiful although strangely when I first saw her in one of the portable vehicles the only thing that struck me was how much make-up she had on. Perhaps this is because while I have been travelling I have not worn any at all so it was a strange concept to me!!! When Aamir Khan came on set he was treated like a God which never quite sits right with me as its like saying some people are more important than others. He went out for a break every few minutes when they had to make the slightest change to somethng, while the extras who were crammed in like cattle were expected to stay exactly where they were. Its understandable but it irritated me a bit when the 1st AD sort of herded me out of the way to clear a path for him so he wouldnt brush my arm! I wonder if it makes him feel uncomfortable too, being set apart so drastically. If I ever became famous I wouldnt want to be treated like that and would still want to mingle with other poeple. It made you scared to even look at him yet alone make any conversation. You may get struck by lightening! They did the take many many times but I suppose it was more interesting for me than for others as I was right beside them. At the end they wouldnt let us stay to watch the filming of the dance sequence which we were quite dissapointed at. But we were only white extras, they'd done with us. No more evident than when after a 12 hour day at almost half the pay of the locals (they got 900 ruppees) they expected us to get a train home. Well, we had to get a rickshaw to the station then had to fight to get the money for the fare for the train and a taxi the other end. It did take the mickey really and I'm not sure if this is common or just the guy who was assisting us trying to get a few extra ruppees in his pocket. We eventually made it back to the hostel exhausted but having experienced something interesting.

I was dissappointed in myself that I didnt take the opportunity to introduce myself to the director. I tried to sneak back in at the end but he looked busy. I did not want to be unprofessional and interfere with the shoot, but equally wanted to make my presence known in the hope of making contacts and perhaps getting some proper acting work. In the exterior set, I met an English actor who had been working in Bollywood for 3 years. He said he got about 2 days work a week on average which is good compared to England in my experience anyway! I took his details and hopefully will meet up with him to find out more about the industry here should I stay and give it a shot. Its funny because when I first saw him he was in a crowd with the extras and being really over the top and I remember thinking oh no look at the wannabe actor! But then I realised he was professional and was doing exactly what was expected of Bollywood acting. He understood the genre. If I stay here I'l have to reconsider my definitions of good acting!

Back at the hostel I had a shower and went out for some grub. I met a couple of aussie girls who are leaving for Goa so I may bump into them again. I suggested a bunch of us take a day trip tomorrow so we decided to meet for breakfast and then go to elephant island. Then time for an early night in my dorm room.

Weds May 13th

Met the crowd to go to elephant island. Neil (Leeds) Ducky (Leeds) Hannah (Sheffield) Sunny (German) a couple of quieter American girls who I forget the names of, and Martin (Scot.). We got the ferry for 120 ruppee return (plus another 20 for the privaledge of sitting on the sun deck!) and it was a bit reminiscent of Halong Bay, Its Hannahs last day which is a real shame as shes a really nice girl and you can tell India just really agrees with her - she loves everything about it, eat s with her hands (!) and wants to return soon. She also has not experienced the hassle other girls have but that may be because she dresses in quite a local way. I think India style of dressing is pretty but its not to my personal taste. However I think I will have to as its preferable to getting unwanted stares and gropes...which apparantly isnt as common in Mumbai but is expected elsewhere.

The Hindu temples were pretty cool and Neil and I stayed on after the others had left to walk around the island. I think I am going to find it difficult here as the humidity is incessant and its not like you can strip off to a bikini and have a dip because a) the water is not clean and b) its not culturally appropriate to wear so little. Goa is about the only place but Ive been told the water is also dodgy and its out of season and unbearably hot. But I may still go...

I miss the beaches of Thailand but we met a crowd of people who worked for an airline on stopover in Mumbai and they invited us to their hotel - which is a really posh one - to spend a day relaxing there in luxury so bring it on I can't wait!!! I need to chill in the sun with a book!!!

We had a curry for lunch (of course - there isnt much else to eat here!) - and the others headed back to do their various things while Neil and I stayed to take a stroll around the island even though its not like Thailand, we still had to pick our way through rubbish which seems to be the norm here rather than the exception. We had a good chat and came back on the ferry to meet Hannah and the german girl Sunny to go to a beach to watch the sunset as it was Hannahs last night after 3 1/2 months here. India is quite overwhelming at first, arriving at the beach there was a mass of locals and colours and smells and people trying to sell you things. I'm glad at this stage I am hanging out with other people because I think I would be just a little scared experiencing all of this alone! I have a choice to make whether I continue travelling with the people I am hanging out with who are lovely and I think I would really enjoy spending more time with them - or go alone South to Goa where Im in much need of some rest and relaxation rather than heading to another busy and humid city.

We ended up walking back along the promenade which was really great views both ways, and there were people doing push ups and jogging along, making me again have a pang for the gym! Is not so easy for me to job here in flip flops but I am starting to feel very unfit!!

We ate at Leopards which is a bit of a backpacker hangout and which still has bullet holes in the walls from when Mumbai was attacked. I was glad to have a western cheese and chicken sandwich because there is a plentitude of Indian food in er India, but not much else and its rich and fatty and very nice but not 3 times a day and I fear I am starting to put on weight...

I emailed my brother as its his birthday but was late and was so so tired so headed back to the hostel and said bye to Hannah, inherited some sun cream off her and feeling sunburnt, had a restless nights sleep. Good day though, Im really making the most of it here and am glad to have met some lovely people Hope it continues in this way.

Thursday 14th May

Today after another Salvation Army breakfast (!) me Ducky and Neil headed off to find the Marriot Hotel and some upper class relaxation! The taxi cost us 250 ruppee (even though he originally wanted 350 and then upon my insistance consulted his chart and claimed it was 295 ruppee, upon looking myself it was 235 ruppee so he was bloomin lucky to still get a tip!) Actually, the cabs here would be cute if they werent so unbearably hot. The meter is old fashioned, a bit like an old till, they then convert the amount on a chart into modern day ruppee. Im sort of used to being ripped off now in South East Asia, but it shows how important it is to understand and be prepared for it. You always hear stories of the unsuspecting travellers arriving - some guy paid 3,500 ruppee (50 quid) for a taxi from the airport - it should be less than a fiver!! I remember when I first got to Laos people attempting to scam me really really bothered me and I got really stressed out about it. Now I just expect it and know whats fair and wont pay a penny, or ruppee more.

I am sitting in the Marriot hotel, very very happy to be in a gorgeous place, on a comfy sun lounger, overlooking a pool, with no hassle, free drinks and nice company. We got in Ok as the guys had given us the low down on how to get into the hotel looking like we were familiar with it! Fortunately we saw Melissa on the way in so when we were asked for our room number and name (I was gonna hijack Melissas anyway!) it all seemed natural...! She showed us round it is very exciting there are saunas and steam rooms and hot and cold plunge pools and basically this place is nice nice nice! And to top it all off, Ducky and Neil have decided to join me in going to Goa so evrything is good!

We had a bit of trouble getting a taxi back and went straight for some food as we hadnt eaten since an early breakfast and my stomach was turning inside out. I started feeling very odd, my stomach started feeling uneasy and a bit delirious. Went to bed and basically it was the start of a tummy bug. I took paracetamol and sea salts and one of Duckys stomach tablets which she said was an antibiotic.

Friday 15th May

Had a disturbed night and spent the whole next day in bed with a short and painful stint of getting taxi to the nearby train station to buy sleeper tickets for tonight to Goa. Neil and I are leaving together and Ducky will join us tomorrow so she can spend a bit more time with her friend. We were lucky to get them as usually you have to buy at least 2 days in advance but it is off season so perhaps thats why. Actually we are lucky as tourists as there is a 'tourist quota' they have to reserve for us - Indians have to book at least 2 weeks in advance apparantly all forms of public transport are always packed here.

Obviously its not pleasant being ill in a dormitory but it could have been a lot worse. I had Ducky for company for some of the day, and I was reading this fantastic book set in Mumbai called 'Shantaram' so really it was almost a good excuse to have a very lazy day. I felt significantly better by the evening and after 3 days it was the first time I didnt have a headache (think must be dehydration the heat is a shocker) and popped out to buy a mobile phone (about 12 quid) and Indian garb (about 1.20.) Felt quite washed out after this and after buying some supplies at the supermarket (1st experience of one in India and even found baked beans which I havnt seen anywhere on my travels thus far so very excited - when I can eat again! - packed and went to the train station for Goa!

A twenty year old lad tapped me on the shoulder in the street - he remembered me from a conversation the other day. He seems harmless and is a student with a very good grasp of English, but spoke so fast I struggled to catch up! He said he was the first foreign lady he had spoken to and referred to me as his 'sister'. He said his parents would not believe he had had a conversation with me. I am starting to grasp the admiration and awe Indians have for the white person. It seems strange to me, and a little uncomfortable but I'm sure I will grow to understand this culture more as I spend more time here. Sometimes we get stared at simply because the colour of our skin gives us automatic celebrity status.

We caught a cab to the Victoria station (50 ruppee - double than the metre but we did have our big bags and it was night time) where I was amazed to discover was in full swing with bodies swarming everywhere, and as we attempted to board our train we passed the ordinary class (we were in sleeper as it was an overnighter) and no joke it was crammed with Indians like transported cattle or something, with optimistic and determined men hanging for dear life onto any conceivable atachement out of the doorway, way beyond what realistically could fit through tunnels! I had read about this, and in 'Shantaram' it gives a very amusing account of such a scene which I would relate but I lent the book to my friend Ducky and we parted before I copied it across. Watch this space...!

On the train there was nowhere very obvious to store our bags so we just stuffed them where we could, and tried to sleep amongst the Indian men determined to have a party. There was a bunk of 3, the topmost of which is a permanent fixture. The middle and the bottom normally make up a soft seated chair or sofa in the day time, and upon the night, the back of which folds up and is hung by chains to create the middle bunk, and the seat becoming the bottom bunk. Indian trains are a little confusing, there are no signs to indicate which train is leaving from which platform and they are often late which leaves you wondering if you are on the wrong platform. I was very thankful to be with Neil who has some expeirence of Indian trains having been here for 4 months, and also I was so tired and recovering from my tummy bug and the heat was so intense it made me feel safer knowing I was not alone. I wasnt convinced I woulnd pass out!

One thing here thats very odd is the red coloured spit that comes out of peoples mouths. I think its some kind of drug they chew but its a bit weird and they all seem to do it! The first time I thought it was blood!