20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai

Thursday 20th Feb - Day 1 Chang Mai

Ive been here 2 weeks now! And done so much already!

I suprisingly woke up at 9am considering last night late escapades. I showered, actually appreciating a warm (hot would be pushing it) shower for the first time since I got here) and went around to the girls, who are staying just around the corner. I slept quite well last night and may as well stay here to be less disruptive to everyone. I woke them up about 9.45 and I kinda got the impression they wern't in any rush to go anywhere! It's great being back with them again but find it a little frustrating they take so long to get going in the morning (especially when they are working to limited time factors) because its like nearly afternoon by the time we've had breakfast! Anyway, I tootled off to get necessary things like malaria tablets (soooo cheap!! - 5 quid for 10 weeks supply!), deet spray and more sun tan lotion, and got a little lost but I found my way back by 11.15 and they were still in their room! We had breakfast (muesli and orange juice) and then we set off to the walking tour of the important temples as suggested by lonely planet. They are all pretty cool to be honest but I especially liked Wat Phang Tao, an 'unsung treasure' of Chang Mai - a gorgeous teak temple, and Wat Phra Singh, the most impressive temple in Chang Mai, with the citys most revered buddha image. At Wat Chedi Luang, we chatted with a 20 year old monk. He had been a novice monk since the age of 12, and a proper monk for 3 years so far. He was an extremely friendly guy, full of laughter and smiles. We chatted about general things and then I asked some questions about buddhism. He told us monks have something like 223 forbidden rules (and with a sideways cheeky glance he confessed he couldnt remember them all, followed by a giggle!) We had to be careful not to make contact with him for this reason, as purity, virtue and something else and are the 3 aspects of his religion - he explained that women were 'dangerous!' Discipline and d? are also important to him. They do believe Buddha is alive, and the purpose of their faith is to attain nirvana, a state he believes he is close to as a monk but he also said he was a monk on the inside and the outside. Other people may not outwardly be adorned as such but may be a monk on the inside. Later, when I and the girls were chatting about him, Lauren commented that he was very unaffected and genuine, he did not impose his religion on others like some christian evanglists but was happy to explain and answer questions if people we interested. I know what she meant. This man was quietly living out his religion, but not inflicting it on anyone else. And this makes it more attractive. People are drawn to the qualities they display and the virtues are all honourable and good. I suppose monks in england are the same though, it doesnt necessarily reflect religious orientation.

The second monk we talked to at a different temple (these temples have allocated space for 'monk chat' - they are often keen to practice their english and share their religion) had a weaker grasp of English and couldnt answer my question as to whether they wore anything under their robes! I completely misinterpreted Lauren when she mentioned after the first chat that she meant to ask if they wore other clothes. She meant as in casual clothes, but of course I took it to mean like scots wear kilts, an analogy I tried to use on the poor unsuspecting young monk, which was lost on him!

Dont think me too bad though. The novice, younger monks made no pretence in their interest in the ladies. I got called 'beautiful' - do they know my age?! - and all my friends witnessed their adolescent glances and giggles. Boys will be boys, novice monk or no! It is a strange scene though, in the last temple we visited they were absolutely everywhere.

Ok here's the funniest bit. I had a Thai massage. By the females in the womens prison. For some reason, I thought Thai massage was a nice relaxing, well english massage, but er in Thailand...?! Basically being ignorant to the cultural differences I just assumed a massage was a massage was a massage. How wrong I was. The first clue was the fact we had to put strange garnments on. Lauren, seeing my confused face enlightened me to the fact it was more about pulling and pushing you around than actual body tissue massage - that was an oil massage. Oh. Great! So much for the relaxing session I had been so anticipating! These women were amazing though. They used their own muscle strength and leverage and what not to really manipulate and pummel my body and I do mean pummel, gently these convicts were not! It really was so physical - they used their entire bodies to 'massage' me ie simultaneoulsy giving me pain and well more pain actually m it wasnt really until afterwards you feel the benefit although I did particularly enjoy having my feet washed and the small bits of time they more traditionally massage your hands and back (with a few elbows thrown into the mix and she did threated to stand on my back! - it was incredible to me they had so much agility and energy. Agile or no, you are when you finish as they force your body into strange contortions and swing and throw you around in rabdom positions but the whole thing is ingenious actually and I would definately have it again.

It was, really rather painful in parts but it left me feeling deeply rejuvinated and relaxed and more flexible somehow. I wondered if so much force was really needed - is this a buch of sado-masochists, or is this punishment to the world that imprisoned them? I do not know - this was Laurens 3rd Thai massage and one that she said was definately the hardest. But they didnt show their effort. They chatted and smiled their way though like a bunch of teenage girls, being true Thai and even treating work with a sense of play.

We had dinner in the main square and then headed back before the Thai boxing match. Its called My Thai or thats how its prounounced it must be mae thai - and a combination of boxing and martial arts. The boxers do a kind of dance as their warm up in the ring, and they do their little worship actions to each other and the corners of the ring, possibly something to do with an amulet around their heads which they remove before they fight. There is a LOT of respect between the fighters and you get the feeling they are friends having a bout rather than having a serious competition. However, some strong kicks and punches were soon flying around so I'm sure it was misleading. Once I had cheated and stood near the VIP area with a better view it was much more interesting, you could see the sweat, the muscles flexing, the facial expressions. The atmosphere was also better. The highlight was an australian guy who knocked his opponant out in the 2nd round! I really enjoyed it and we are all tempted to do a thai boxing workshop. I think it is so good the respect in this country though. It is a mutual submission all the time and is lovely.

We got a tuk tuk back and I got chatting to a Irish guy in my guest house. He is the 2nd person who has recommended Pai to me so I am tempted to split with the girls again and meet them in Laos. I had decided I was gonna go along with them on their one day trek. But now I may join this irish guy on his motorbike so I finishing the sites of Chang Mai before heading off to do some far north rural Thailand. Glad I started my anti malaria tablets today! Still gonna get up early to tell the girls what my plan is. Excited again. Hope it works out and we meet up in Luang Prabang.

Best thing: Cheap cheap cheap anti-malarials (5 pounds for 10 weeks), chatting with monks and Thai Massage and Thai boxing match.
Worst thing: Just bit tired and would have liked to have seen the other temple and started out a bit earlier and done more so more time to chill and rest before boxing.

Money spent: 150 accomodation, 80 breakfast, 10 bread, 12 water, 750 pharmacy supplies, black skirt, 200 Thai massage, 20 baht orange juice, 155 dinner (proper western pasta, olives, mozerella.) purse 35 baht, boxing match 350 baht, coke 20 baht, tuk tuk x 2 40 baht..TOTAL 1072 BAHT / 10.72 and 750 baht / 15 quid for pills not included in everyday budget.