21st Feb - Chang Mai day 2

Friday 21st Feb - Chang Mia day 2

I am sitting in bed writing this at the end of a looonng but good day. I am in Pai. I am sleeping above a rather loud bar! Basically I decided yesterday I wasnt gonna go on the trek with the girls, instead seeing Doi Suthep and Wat U Mong before hopefully catching a bus to Pai (Last one leaves at 4).Pai has this aura of mystery around it - and an expectation that you always end up staying longer than planned! I guess I am loosly thinking I will stay here 3 nights before heading off. But hot springs may change my mind ;) )

I basically slept so bad I felt I didnt sleep at all. Dunno why, especially after that vigorous Thai massage! That was enough to exhaust anyone! I wandered along the road to see about hiring a scooter as I was up so early so I could let the girls know I wasn't going with them on their day trek and also to return Laurens phone which I had used as a alarm clock (STILL need ot buy one desperado!!) and just to say bye as I wouldnt see them again til Laos - and didnt want to wake the Irish guy up. 'Tonys bikes' didnt recommend me tootling off by myself being unused to motorbikes. So I hung out at the guest house for a while, and me and Mr Irish guy headed off on his 750 cc motorbike when he woke up. I'm not used to being a motorbike passenger, so probably was a little bit tense especially in the local crazy traffic but I soon felt like a local! and mostly it was a really really cool experience. I felt safe with Irish guy as he had been driving all over northern Thailand, and drives a bike at home too. I love the feeling of going fast, with the wind in the hair, its the same with skiing really. But Thailand is notorious for road accidents and I think its the highest death rate amongst tourists. But its fun, everyone does it, and also was a really good way to get around in the heat as the wind keeps you nice and cool. I think as long as your sensible and dont get cocky its fine.

I liked the atmosphere ay Doi Suthep, it reminded me of a busier and somehow more cultural version of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, as there was love Thai music playing, and dancing by kids from local schools. There was also a market nearby where I bought a couple of bracelets for 100 baht. The dancers used their hands so eloquantly, they seemed to take on a life of their own. I also noticed that in a Thai pop music video on the bus from Sukkothai to Chang Mai. They don't sexually grind their was through their music wearing scimpy clothes like in the West. There is much more innocence and class really. The more I experience other cultures the more I can see why England and America have a bad reputation for such things. It seems unecessary and immoral in comparison and quite cheap.

Wat U Mong in the forest had a totally different vibe than the city wats as was very peaceful. Me and Lorcan found a spot in the shade overlooking a lovely lake and chatted for a while. He's been to Thailand before but loves it and is here for 3 weeks this time round. We also fed some catfish which were huge! - and greedy. In the water we also saw some turtles. But it was very muddy and we could only see them when they surfaced. I got back just in time to get a shared taxi to the bus station where I was mentally preparing myself for the challenges of a government bus ride. However it seemed we were being transported in a rather nice taxi / mini bus vehicle which was I later learned double the price but still only a measly 150 baht. It was quite amusing actually as even though there were only 9 seats in the back we were all allocated numbered seats and the driver was very strict about upholding that we sit in the correct places! Gutted I didnt have an end seat as I was sort of dropping off then jumping awake and at one point woke to my head nearly resting on the poor guys shoulder next to me! He was a Thai boy, reallly nice and friendly, visiting his sister in Pai. We got chatting and it emerged he was a buddhist converted to Christianity. I was interested as to how this would happen as it is so dominated by buddhism in this country there seems little opportunity to be exposed to alternative religiions. He didnt understand my question but the guy in front of me said there were missionaries around which would explain it. I wonder why buddhism is respected as a religion, but christianity is generally not in the secular world. Jesus seems to be an offensive world and I dont really know why.

On this bus I got chatting to an Italian guy who seemed quite friendly and once in Pai at about 7.30pm I buzzed off with him on another motorbike to his bungalow (he was paying 60 baht a night but slightly out of town) where he said his friends were cooking. I wish I arrived in the day time in this place - the camp site was obviously high on a hill - I could see the lights of Pai and the name treetops also gave it away somewhat! The stars were really clear. I arrived really really tired and hungry and really I should have just parted from this guy in town and found a room but he seemed so helpful I didnt want to offend him and thought it would be nice to hang out with some people who had been here a ong time and knew where to go etc.

The bus stop was in the middle of the central main street. It looks like a really really lovely place I can tell Im going to like it already.
Arriving there was nelson, a guy called Alex, a spanish girl and a girl from Birmingham who had just been travelling in India. We ended up eating a gorgeous baked potato, chicken and rice soup all cooked over a camp fire which for those that know me is my idea of a good meal! It was so late by the time we actually ate it my stomach was turning insode out. But it was worth the wait. I love fire, I love camping,and I love food - this had all elements! I just wish I wasn't so tired!!!

What a life, Pai seems to be the kinda place people come to stay for long periods of time or always kinda find themselves coming back to as in the case of Nelson, whose fire and utensils we were using. The italian guy E offered that I could stay in his hut the night but you've got to have some controls, he seemed nice but I didn't know him and I couldn't be bothered with worrying whether he might try it on so come 11 o'clock another guy Alex (who has been basically travelling and working his way around the world for like 12 years) gave me a ride to find a room. As I feared by this time it was difficult and I wished I had put my foot down when I first arrived and checked in somewhere straight away rather than go with the flow (but I didnt want to offend E as he had rang ahead to see if there was a spare bungalow at his place and invited me to dinner with him and his friends which was very kind.)

Did find a place above a bar but tomorrow will try to move to riverside view - basically a magical place right on the river where I think irish guy Lorcan stayed when he was here. You have to see the photos to believe it! Apparantly it gets full at weekends because of Thais coming for weekend breaks.

I thought it was too bad to arrive in Pai my first night and go to bed however tired I was so came back out. We started off in Jacks, got on the bikes to go to a reggae party which wasn't happening so we ended up at bamboo bar. I wsh there were bars like this back home! They had a couple of fires and the atmosphere was great. To be honest by this time it was really dead so I called it a night.

Its definately signifiantly colder here than anywhere else in Thailand. In one way it is a nice change but it really threw me as Im used to nor worrying about wearing clothing for warmth. At night there is a definate chill that reminds me of England (NOO!!!). Thus far accomodations I have stayed in has given me only a sheet to sleep under, Here it is a kind of padded sheet or thin quilt, and I asked for an extra blanket which just about did me. The lady who works here said only two weeks ago they were all wearing gloves and woolly hats! Incredible!
Reading a newspaper today I noted that the weather in Ko Pang Yang and Ko Tao was considered 'Hazerdous' and Bankok and the midlands 'unhealthy' heat. I think this trip has been timed pretty well so far but methinks Vietnam will be another story!

Money spent: Water and bread 25 baht, 50 taxi car, 150 bus to Pai, 100 baht bracelets, 20 baht strawberries, 15 sandwiiches, 35 drinks, 60 baht 2 x entrance to Doi Suthep, 100 bat beers. TOTAL: 520 baht / 10 pounds 40.

Best thing: Motorbiking round Chamg Mai with Irish guy Lorcan and bonfire meal.
Worst thing: Not having slept last night.