6th Feb - 2nd day Bankok

Friday 6th
Had such a good nights sleep - I woke up when the girls came in even though they were really lovely and quiet, and got cold in the night with the air con so popped on the fleece (so glad I brought it in the end!), but apart from that slept like a baby - it was was wonderful. I did silently curse when an alarm went off at 9.30 am...! But I realised I actually feel quite good. Sat and updated my blog on my computer while the girls were packing. I took a long and self indulgent shower, washing my hair for the first time in 4 days! I was quite up for some sightseeing and the girls were up for a chilled time, so I ventured out alone, revelling in my refreshed state and excited at the unexpected opportunity to see Bankok having actually slept! I think I even looked less pasty than the day before and definately had bloodshot eye reduction!! I went to the river and took the same boat as yesterday feeling like an old hand(!), this time getting off at the Grand Palace. I was literally overwhelmed upon entering the compex containing the statue of the emerald buddha. I had to stop myself just standing there and gaping with my mouth wide open. It was breaktaking in its grandeur and the sheer vastness of gold gilted pieces sparking from all angles was fantastical, pseudo spiritual, and other worldly. I was thinking how my camera could not capture such richness of effect and true to form, it didn't. I walked around outside just appreciating the visual impact and vibe before entering the temple itself. I had to leave my flip flops outside and the cooless underfoot and of the room in addition to the general tranquility was a welcome rest (Lauren later told me it had been busy when she had visited and had found it a bit stressful). I just sat on the floor taking it all in, remembering to not point my feet toward Buddha as I had read in my guide book. The emerald Buddha itself (actually made out of jade I read) was very small, sitting superiorly up high in his 'winter' outfit, being worshipped by the Thais present in the room (incidently this place was free to Thais but foreigners paid the relatively expensive fee of 350 baht.) At one point two very young boys came and sat in front of me and started worshipping also with no trepidation or embarrasment a such a display of religious devotion as one might feel in England. I noted the submission involved in kneeling or sitting and bowing almost nose to the ground. The sense of importance of this strange bright silent Buddha was absolute, although I could not help but think how odd it is to bow before a statue that is just that, a statue with no life, and no pretence of life. The Christian god is worshipped because of the belief he is alive not dead, but at times I get a glimpse of how others must view Christians too, praying to something not completely understood by others, something not tangible, not breathing, but the concept of which is simultaneously mystical and undoubted.
I could happily have stayed wandering round all day (especially if there was a place to grab a drink) but my stomach was rumbling and I had taken the optimistic plan of visiting 3 places of interest before meeting the girls back at the guesthouse at 5.30 where we had checked out but stored our bags.
In these two days I am concious of how little Thai I know. When I have visited other countries I have at least had a few phases that get across the general gist. But here I am very dependant on Thais knowing English. Many are very helpful but this is also taken slightly suspiciously as one is always aware of the various scams that occur many of which I had familiarised myself with on the excellent Travelfish.
Speaking of scams... I had stumbled across this marvelous little market, not many tourists seemed to be present although it was a tourist area being near the palace. I really felt this was a slice of Thai life, the hustle and bustle, the enticing smells of cooking, the jangle of bells on some quaint cart pulled by a local. I overheard what I assumed to be an american expat on his mobile and I noted it as seeming out of place. I had a lovely chicken with rice dish plus a coke for the grand total 60 baht or one pound 20 - a bargain by any standards.
Upon finishing my food, I started walking towards the temple Phra Khae which was close by. Some street seller struck up a conversation and I joined in thinking what's the harm in it. Turned out - he claimed - the temple I was going to had shut at 3.30. What to do? I would normally have been suspicious if it wasn't for the fact that the place I had just visited also closed at that time so it was plausible. I did say if that was closed why would the others he mentioned be open but he just said they were open. He called over a tuk tuk driver who agreed to take me three places he suggested for 20 baht. I would have paid more than that for a bus back to the hostel anyway so i agreed spontaneously. it all started off well. It only occured to me once 'buzzing' throuigh the streets that 20 baht is ridiculous by any standards i should have known something was going on. But he took me to a temple other that the one I said i had wanted to go to first. Possibly, giving him the benefit of doubt that in hidsight he porbably didnt deserve, didnt understand me with limited english. Seemed a liitle dodgy upon approaching. The man who greeted me also seemed to want to encourage me to 'go shopping' but I said a firm no and looked round. It was ok, but really anything will now pale into sigificance after the temple of the emerald buddha which I think goes down as one of the most magificent places I have seen. The man told me the temple of the standing buddha was shut which angered me as it was the main one I had been interested in visiting and hence agreeing to the tuk tuk. I started having that all too familiar sinking feeling that all was not as it should be...!
So here's where it made sense. We pulled up outside of some gem factory... Basically finally seeing the signs now they had slapped me in the face, I firmly said I didn't want to go in and we drove away. But my tuk tuk driver started laying the guilt trip on me. Said couldn't I 'just look' for 5-10 minutes? So he could get his 2 USD? It is amazing how quickly friendly smiley and helpful Thais can turn sullen. Having learnt from a similar experience in Malta, I wasn't having any of it. 5-10 mins is never that. I explained that it was not for him to get cross with me, that this was not the aggreement or condition for my transport. If he wanted to blame anyone, blame his friend for decieving me. Anyway, he would not take me back to my guest house unless I paid extra which I wouldn't do upon principle, and so I got out of his tuk tuk and tried to hail a taxi. I ended up getting a free ride home with some lady who was friends with an off duty taxi driver so it wasn't all bad. But did slightly sour an otherwise fantastic day. 2nd day in Thailand, full of the knowledge but scammed already! Still no harm done and no money exchanged hands.
Watched the news back at the guesthouse - we're all very jealous of such snow and the fun people seem to be having in it! Now I'm on a bus heading to Ko Phang Yang. Mething this 4 days is quite expensive by Thail standards but I think is because private coach combined with ferry through travel agent and not government bus or booking train directly from station. But I am grateful to the girls for arranging it and understand sometimes the more expensive option is less hassle. I am quite dissapointed I won't see the west coast of the island. I assumed we would do the south loop in traveller style but didn't realise Lauren and Lottie did it before me and Emily came. I'm learning to realise though that everything works out for the best and at the end of the day am having great time with lovely people so its all good. Am wondering if I can do it by myself at the end...will think how can fit it in as well as Cambodia.
I've had a couple of beers what more do I need?!
Money spent: Last nights accomodation 275, Boat 18 baht, entrance to temple of emereld Buddha and Grand Palace 350 baht, lunch street market (chicken, rice and coke) 60 baht, water beers and goodies for overnight bus 350 baht, tea in hostel 35 baht, taxi to station 20 baht. Food on overnight coach (rice) 50 baht TOTAL: 1158 baht / 23.16
Most enjoyable thing: Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
Worst thing: Oakley sunglasses breaking and being dumped by a Tuk Tuk driver because I wouldnt buy gems!
Most annoying thing: Forgetting to video the Emerald Buddha and then not being allowed re-entry.
Most random thing: Seeing people sledging in england.