18th Feb - Lopburi, land of the monkeys

Tuesday 18th Feb - Lopburi and arriving Sukkothai

Wow what a cool day so far. I woke up earlier this morning than the alarm was set for so I left at 8am to catch a tuk tuk to the station hoping to leave on the earlier 8.35 to Lompuri, land of the monkeys as a pit stop on the way to Sukothai. True to Thai form - (as I'm quickly discovering puncuality is the exeption rather than the norm) - it left over half an hour late but was only 20 baht so can't really complain! Journey took 40 minutes and I was very reliant on others to a) get on the right train and b) get off at the right stop! I'm feeling good going off on my own, but also its nice to know I will be meeting my friends again in Chang Mai soon. I just have this feeling I will be at full pelt to pack everything in and not fall too far behind because there is just so much I wanna do in this area and I dont wanna miss it by rushing off to Laos.

I set off on a mission once arriving in Lopburi. determined to see the important sites and maximise my time and experience here. I had done my homework and identified and familiarised myself with the important temples but lets face it all I was really interested in was the monkeys! After paying 50 baht to look around Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (directly opposite from the station) which according to Lonely Planet is one of the cities oldest, and was the largest monastry in Lompburis hayday. The main standing tower was quite pretty with lintels still intact and some ornate decoration. I walked up the road and passed Wat Nakhon Kosa (built in 12th century) which may have been a hindu shrine. It was rather funny as it had moss growing out of the top, looking like an ancient version of bart simpson. .

Continuing along the same road, I came to two of the most important places. The first, San Phra Kan I entered, and was obviously popular pilgramedge destination as many Thais were paying their respects to Buddha and burning various things that I have yet to learn of and understand. It was ver colourful and attractvie inside - in fact generally over here I see many more bold and bright colours which I like. When I came out, I saw the famous monkeys. I was a little apprehensive as I had briefly chatted to one english speaking couple who said they had tied to grab their camera, and another claiming someone they knew had got bitten! So I, er, appreciated them from a a distance, after removing my sparkly jewellery, fastening my bag securely, and gripping onto my camcorder and camera for dear life! I am fascinated by monkeys, hence my desire to visit Lompuri. Crossing over to the other shrine Wat Sam Yot, was a dangerous adventure in itself! - the little creatures were everywhere, scrambling, crawling, fighting, or just passing the time of day. They collected on street corners and upon deciding to cross the road, cars literally had to stop and wait for them. Approaching buses hooted in anticipation of them crossing and cars with wise locals apprached slowly around the bend in the road. It was also quite amusing as they would congregate and wait in groups, seemingly observing the traffic, and then cross at an opportune moment, like a crowd of school children.
Wat Sam Yot was literally amazing due to the actual temple itself in addition to the copious amount of monkeys resting or playing in its creveses and shadows. This was a fantastic site, and I took many a photo from all angles. This place to me equates with The Temple of the Emereld Buddha albeit in a very different way. So far, Emerald Buddha, Scuba Diving and this, Wat Sam Yok, have been my highlights, followed by the full moon party. But I had to get a move on as only a couple of hours until my onward train.

Walking up the road in the vague direction towards the palace I found an indoor market. I really enjoy shopping at markets and was pleased to pick up a pair of leggins for 99 baht which I have been looking out for in England anyway. The clothes here are on a par with the night market in Ayutthaya in terms of prices. Possibly a little less.

Continuining, I happened across the palace grounds. I couldnt believe it upon entering as a festival was in full swing which I had read was in February but thought what are the chances?! People - all Thais as as I could see - were milling everywhere within the grounds, music was playing, a couple of shows were taking place, there were loads of school children about and generally a happy summer carnival atmosphere (even though, of course, it was their winter, a fact that continues to amaze me in the soaring heat). Ayutthaya and to a lesser extent Lompuri, being central Thailand, I read, are prone to humidity and stickiness as well as rain but not much chance of that its not in season.
Sitting down at one point in the shade with my orange juice to have a little rest and cool off, I got into limited conversation (mainly in the form of giggles and gestures on both sides) with a load of Thai primary school children. They wear colourful attire in Thailand, dark bottoms but tops of all the colours of the rainbow in a silk like material to keep them cool. I was trying to explain that in England (which many hadn't heard of) it is snowing. They didn't get this either, as they've probably never seen the stuff in their whole life! It was one of those moments when you really feel like your experiecing the culture and not just observing it from a distance. I was no longer in a rush, this place was so lovely I was thinking I'd catch a later train anyway. I was a novelty in this place, I did not see many tourists / travellers / westeners at all (even though being in the palace grounds it was a tourist area) so in their eyes, I was a minor celebrity, they all wanted to sit by me and shake my hand, an action I instigated in a very english like way and which produced giggles every time. It was fun.

I eventually said my goobyes after a few photos, and many a handshake and smile. I saw a sign and clocked that the area I was in was the palace grounds and the ruins I had seen amongst the fetivities aactually significant places of interest. I thought perhaps I could make the 1 o clock after all as the next train wsnt til 5, and I would haev arrived quite late in Sukothia by myself with nowhere booked to stay. I also wanted a bit of time to chat and plan tomorrow if I only have one full day. So I wizzed around the museum, and looked about the grounds which were beautiful and colourful and in immaculate condition with many little quirky features, and although very tempted to stay, made my way back to the train station which didn't take very long at all. Being easier to ask directions than use my basic map ripped out of my lonely planet guide, fortunately someone recognised 'station' as for some reason, Thai's cannot read maps, or perhaps only English maps which would be more understandable!
Outside the station I bought a 30 baht meal and then a ticket for my ongoing journey. It was the rapid train so about 8 times the cost of an ordinary one, but needs must. Its still only 8 quid for a 600 K journey (what's that in mile again?!) and it gives me more time in a place I dont have much time in ;)

While I was waiting for the delayed train, I chatted with a couple from Belgium who also have the same plans as me so at least I have some company when making my connecting bus and possibly even finding accomodation / tuk tuk. Also recommended Tommys on Ko Tao for diving. I should get commission...
Bloomin fantastic day so far really really great. Think the palace festival will also have to go down as one of my most significant events in Thailand. Not bad, two in one day and Im not even in Sukothait yet...

I am writing this on the train. I am very very very glad to have brought my netbook along. a) it gives me something to do on long journeys b) it allows me to keep a blog much more easily and c) the girls are finding it useful too for photos and to chanrge lotties ipod! So thanks to my brother Ed for encouraging me.
I am debating how much information to put on this blog. I think I may start giving an overview of a place, sort of hard facts for those completely unfamilar but also to remind me of the context of places when I read this blog in the future.

Very pleased spent the entire 3 hours journey neatly putting all my photos so far and ones I want the girls took into neat folders in my netbook. Im organised really! ts s6 bizarre the only way I know the time is by looking at the time on my netbook then adding 7 hours. Also, I have no way of knowing which stop that station is - they write 'please do not put rubbish down the toilet but in the bins provided' but can't translate the stations stops to English! Help! ps yay the tiolet had toilet roll!!!

Bit daft Ive been turning food down the whole journey (its quite common on Thai trains for people to come on and sell food but always more expensive) but I realised it was free - I think Rapid is the equivalent of 1st class here or something!)

Sukothi means 'dawn of happiness'. How nice. Ok so Sukothai was the first capital of Siam, flourishing from mid 13th C to late 14th C. The Sukothai kingdom was viewed as the 'golden age' of Thai civilisation.' The old city contains 45sq k of ruins, which are one of the most visited ancient sites in Thailand. Its dynasty lasted 200 years and nine kings.

Well it was a loong journey all in all, 1 train (which arrived an hour late!), 2 buses, then 1 tuk tuk - but finally at 7.15 pm I am in a single room at 'Garden House' for the grand price of 150 baht. I am sooo glad I didnt hang around in Lopburi as there would have been no onward buses to Sukothai at that time but Lonely planet did not think to write that! I have two single beds - very hard matresses which I like - which take up 2/3 of the space but it is Thai style, bamboo walls, reasonably lit, mosquito net on the window, and a fan. (oh did I mention no electricity points but its OK I'm using one right outside my room and trailing it in.) There's a shared bathroom - little did I know there was only 1 shower - shared among 6 rooms! - so here I am, sitting in my towel STILL but I'm next in line! - trying to make use of my time as it's not like I can wander around dressed like this! There is world news on the TV downstairs so I am looking forward to chilling. I may wander into new sukothai and find a wireless connection over dinner. I really need an alarm clock too!

I wandered into New Sukothai - still dont know how to pronouce it - not much going on. Bought dinner in a kind of street market. Felt quite tired. Watched some trashy Thai soap is absolutely hilarious but the locals love it. Aproached 3 girls after the meal - only other westerners I could see - and we got chatting and I had a beer with them and basically exchanged travel stories. We arranged to meet tomorrow to tour old sukothai - which was good - but meeting at 8am - which is not so good! Suppose may as well make good of my day just worried as have no way of setting alarm and also have to check out by then too. Had another shower before I went to bed and tried to organise myself as much as poss as I have told one of the girls my room number so she can knock if I oversleep! Is now just gone 10.30 so gonna try and get a good 8 1/2 hours fingers crossed...

ps Ive got blisters and havnt booked yet alone know details about how Im gonna get to Chang Mai tomorrow night.. ah well.

Money spent: Tuk Tuk to station from PU Guest house 40 baht, baggage holding fee at station 10 baht, 50 baht entrance Wat Phra Si Ratana, Train Ayutthaya to Lompuri 20 baht (3rd class), Lunch (street stall outside station) 30 baht, orange juice from market 10 baht, black leggins from market 99 baht. Train - rapid 2nd class to Philamoluk - relative ouch! - 393 baht. Bus 12 baht then 39 baht, Tuk Tuk 20 baht, Water 15 baht, lighter 10 baht Dinner: potato salad 40 baht, fruit salad 60 baht, small chang beer 40 baht. TOTAL: 888 baht / 17.76 pounds


Best thing: Defo the monkeys and also the grand palace with the fesitival and the kids.
Worst thing: Just a loooong journey considering 'rapid' and more expensive.